Filling resin kits...

Started by emjaybee, May 17, 2021, 04:39:21 PM

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emjaybee

I'm thinking towards an upcoming project which is a resin kit of a US logging loco.

The kit is cast in resin and I'm quite sure at some point I'm going to need filler. Either for air bubbles, gap-fills, or {ahem} oversights.

Resin is a new format for me, so what do I use for filling the aforementioned holes?

Brookline build thread:

https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=50207.msg652736#msg652736

Sometimes you bite the dog...

...sometimes the dog bites you!

----------------------------------------------------------

I can explain it to you...

...but I can't understand it for you.

PaulCheffus

Quote from: emjaybee on May 17, 2021, 04:39:21 PM
I'm thinking towards an upcoming project which is a resin kit of a US logging loco.

The kit is cast in resin and I'm quite sure at some point I'm going to need filler. Either for air bubbles, gap-fills, or {ahem} oversights.

Resin is a new format for me, so what do I use for filling the aforementioned holes?

Hi

I've always used Humbrol filler and smoothed it over using Humbrol liquid poly leaving it proud. Once dry after 24 hours it can then be filed.

Cheers

Paul
Procrastination - The Thief of Time.

Workbench thread
https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=54708.msg724969#msg724969

Mr Sprue

Extra fine polyester filler from a car paint supplier.

It has a tube of catalyst to activate it and can be worked after about 5 or so minutes depending on room temperature. What I like about using this stuff at the point where it starts to harden it can easily be shaped using a scalpel, then finished with light sanding. 

emjaybee

Quote from: PaulCheffus on May 17, 2021, 05:14:31 PM
Quote from: emjaybee on May 17, 2021, 04:39:21 PM
I'm thinking towards an upcoming project which is a resin kit of a US logging loco.

The kit is cast in resin and I'm quite sure at some point I'm going to need filler. Either for air bubbles, gap-fills, or {ahem} oversights.

Resin is a new format for me, so what do I use for filling the aforementioned holes?

Hi

I've always used Humbrol filler and smoothed it over using Humbrol liquid poly leaving it proud. Once dry after 24 hours it can then be filed.

Cheers

Paul

That's good, I have that stuff in spades! What's the trick with the Liquid Poly?

Quote from: Mr Sprue on May 17, 2021, 08:32:14 PM
Extra fine polyester filler from a car paint supplier.

It has a tube of catalyst to activate it and can be worked after about 5 or so minutes depending on room temperature. What I like about using this stuff at the point where it starts to harden it can easily be shaped using a scalpel, then finished with light sanding. 

Thanks, but I think the missus may have something to say about the smell! I think I'll save that one for another day.
Brookline build thread:

https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=50207.msg652736#msg652736

Sometimes you bite the dog...

...sometimes the dog bites you!

----------------------------------------------------------

I can explain it to you...

...but I can't understand it for you.

PaulCheffus

Hi

Basically fill the hole(s) with the Humbrol filler then overcoat with the liquid poly until it softens. Don't use a new bottle of liquid poly as it will get contaminated by the filler.

I've found the liquid poly doesn't attack the resin but as always you should test in a hidden place just in case. I've also found liquid poly can also be used to remove small deposits of Araldite but not on anything plastic.

Another filler I've used is Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty which is very good for filling very small holes and can be smoothed with water leaving very little filing to do.

Cheers

Paul
Procrastination - The Thief of Time.

Workbench thread
https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=54708.msg724969#msg724969

Mr Sprue

Quote from: emjaybee on May 17, 2021, 11:54:13 PM
Thanks, but I think the missus may have something to say about the smell! I think I'll save that one for another day.

TBH it doesn't chuck up that much and besides the tin is quite small. But if you have plenty of time on your hands and can wait 12 - 24 hours for curing then yes the air curing stuff is for you.

When pattern making for moulds I don't have that time avaliable to me!

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