Which is the easiest card building for a beginner.

Jerry Howlett · March 27, 2013, 04:51:31 PM

The UHU multi purpose adhesive works ok, the PVA glue I get here can be a bit brutal on large sheets.
I tried Cheap versions of "Pritt" sticks but learnt not to buy them from the pound shop or Sainsburys on trips to the UK. As I am dependant on "foreign" glues others may have better advice.

Brooksy · March 28, 2013, 09:35:39 AM

Quote from: Karyn on March 27, 2013, 04:21:38 PM
When you stick the printed sheets to the thick card, what is the best glue?

I have been printing directly onto 200 gsm paper/card to save the gluing problem. Been working for me but I'm just a beginner so don't know if there are potential problems with this.

Jerry Howlett · March 28, 2013, 09:48:04 AM

Yes that works fine for "medium" (220gsm) and "light" (80gsm, I can only get 110gsm) card, but the heavy card (1mm) will need to be glued.

The new scalescenes kit has a new tip for the window frames, (sorry if its been quoted before), Print direct on to adhesive labels cut out and then stick to transparency sheet. Just tried this with the Semi detatched houses and ...It worked

Jerry

scotsoft · March 28, 2013, 10:16:10 AM

Quote from: Karyn on March 27, 2013, 04:21:38 PM
When you stick the printed sheets to the thick card, what is the best glue?

Spray mount works very well for this purpose

cheers John.

Karyn · March 28, 2013, 01:56:52 PM

I've built the free small goods shed as a test for which I printed direct onto 160 gsm card as that's all I had.
But it occured to me that while I should have used 200, glueing a printed layer (80 gsm paper) onto that would leave it 280 gsm + glue... almost twice as thick as I used.

Which comes back to how to glue the printed layer to the card. I thought of spray mount

and a prit stick (other brands available) but i'm concirned about 'dry' areas which are guaranteed to align with some small detail in the print which then lifts and rips when you try to cut it out...

I'm thinking along the lines of watered down PVA, painted onto the card like wallpaper paste and a rolling pin to press and squeeze the layers together. Am I over thinking this? Is it actually easy?

Also, am I expected to stick the entire page (or half page) to a complete sheet of card or is it better to rough cut the pieces out first and only stick the bits you need?

scotsoft · March 28, 2013, 02:24:39 PM

Quote from: Karyn on March 28, 2013, 01:56:52 PM
Which comes back to how to glue the printed layer to the card. I thought of spray mount and a prit stick (other brands available) but i'm concirned about 'dry' areas which are guaranteed to align with some small detail in the print which then lifts and rips when you try to cut it out...
With spray mount you should not get any dry areas and I have found even using the best Pritt sticks after a period of time it seems to dry out and lose it adhesive qualities then peels away.

I'm thinking along the lines of watered down PVA, painted onto the card like wallpaper paste and a rolling pin to press and squeeze the layers together. Am I over thinking this? Is it actually easy?
I think if you used this method you may well end up with a wrinkled sheet due to an excess of water and would stay wrinkled after drying out.

Also, am I expected to stick the entire page (or half page) to a complete sheet of card or is it better to rough cut the pieces out first and only stick the bits you need?

Stick the whole sheets onto the card then give it plenty time to completely dry then use a new scalpel blade otherwise it will end uo dragging the paper especially on the finer details.

cheers John.

Karyn · March 28, 2013, 02:31:10 PM

Thanks John

I'll add a can of spray mount to the shopping list.

Jerry Howlett · March 28, 2013, 03:07:17 PM

John,

Do you recommend any particular brand of spray ?.
I am over to sunny (

) Glasgow next month so would like to buy some. The last stuff I bought here ended up being photo adhesive cost about E13 and came through the paper turning everything a murky shade of Grey.
See even old hands need advice.

Jerry

scotsoft · March 28, 2013, 05:52:02 PM

Hi Jerry,

I bought it on eBay as I could not find any for sale locally.

The company name on the tin is "Q Connect" and it is called "Quick Mount" and I don't remember how much I paid for it.

I do get a sheet of newspaper and have a practice spray on that, so I am sure I am getting an even spray from the can.

Then I get a fresh sheet of newspaper lay the card down and spray from about 18" (approx 460mm) away till it is covered, then lay the printed sheet on top.

This method has worked for me except when the printed sheet slipped out of my fingers and landed partly face down on the card then there was much

trelevra · April 11, 2013, 04:48:38 PM

Can anybody tell this poor old newbie how to scale down the free Wordsworth card kits to n gauge. I've installed frograr so can print them out in what appears to be OO gauge but how do I reduce them. Any advice would be gratefully received. Thanks.

scotsoft · April 11, 2013, 04:58:28 PM

Quote from: trelevra on April 11, 2013, 04:48:38 PM
Can anybody tell this poor old newbie how to scale down the free Wordsworth card kits to n gauge. I've installed frograr so can print them out in what appears to be OO gauge but how do I reduce them. Any advice would be gratefully received. Thanks.

If your printer will print them at 51% they will come out n gauge.

cheers John.

trelevra · April 11, 2013, 05:08:02 PM

Thanks John,
You've made an old idiot very happy.
Mike

scotsoft · April 11, 2013, 05:12:15 PM

Hi Mike,

No such thing as an old idiot on here, just someone who has learned something new.

It is always a good day when you learn something new

Feel free to ask any question you are unsure of, we enjoy helping

cheers John.

Bikeracer · April 11, 2013, 08:01:02 PM

I use PVA or Gorilla Wood Glue in my case for virtually all my paper to card and card to card builds.

My personal method of gluing cover layers to base layers is to lay the base layer on the cutting mat and position the cover layer over it.

Once I'm happy with the position I hold both layers down using my left hand and then I peel the cover layer up at one end with a finger.
This exposes the base layer enough to brush neat PVA onto it for perhaps about 10 or 12mm.

Then I let go of the end of cover layer that I'm holding up and it settles onto the wet PVA which will grab it and hold it in position.
Carefully smooth the glued part down then turn it 180 degrees and repeat gluing about 20mm at a time down.

Then the glued parts get flattened with a brayer tool which is a bit like a seam roller but is wider and made of hard rubber.
Then put the part weighted down on a flat surface for a good 24 hours or so.

I also glue A4 card sheets together with the glue diluted about 50%,it dries too quick if it's neat,then have at it with the brayer tool which IIRC was around £5.00 on ebay,it's better than a seam roller,mine is about 4 inches wide.

Hope all this makes sense.

Allan

Mustermark · April 11, 2013, 08:25:25 PM

Quote from: Bikeracer on April 11, 2013, 08:01:02 PM
I use PVA or Gorilla Wood Glue in my case for virtually all my paper to card and card to card builds.

Gorilla Wood Glue is what I use. It is rock solid once dry. It dries in a couple of minutes but that gives you time to adjust anything before it starts to go off.

My favoured method of "gluing the printed paper on" is to print onto full sheet Avery shipping labels that say they are for Inkjets (available from Staples and such). The labels have a paper surface and a thin 'plasticky' layer underneath with good strong adhesive on. The backing paper peels off and you stick the piece to card for cutting out or directly on if it says 'print only'. The labels are quite expensive, but then I feel like I save so much hassle with glue and spray and cleaning up, and I never get any wrinkles or soggy wetness to have to wait to dry out.

The most glue I ever use now is a dab of Gorilla Wood Glue on my finger to run round the card edges that need gluing together.