A Question about Farish Class 37s

[Tdm]

I currently have 2 non-running Class 37 diesels - a modern EWS liveried one that came from Hattons, and an "older" 37111 Transrail "Glengarnock" that was purchased at a Train Fair.

The modern one has running lights & a split chassis whereas the "Glangarnock" has a single chassis, no lights, and is longer and heavier than the EWS model.

When did Farish swap from the single chassis to the split chassis, and is it still possible to get parts for the older single chassis model?

I also have on pre-order from Hattons the new weathered green Class 37 which was supposedly available June/July - anyone any ideas when it might eventually become available?

I like Class 37s and would like to get my broken ones working again.

[DesertHound]

When did Farish swap from the single chassis to the split chassis, and is it still possible to get parts for the older single chassis model?

Others can be more precise, but I think the class 37 had the single (original chassis) right up until the end of the Poole days. Farish did design a split chassis during the Poole days, but it was for the class 87/90. I believe it was the basis for the retooled class 47 after production moved to China. Others will be more knowledgeable on that.

As for spares, you most definitely can still get them. BR Lines is the place to go - Bob has pretty much everything you will need. It's best to work out what you need first, so that you know what to order.

I look forward to you getting them running and I hope you share your journey of discovery with us. Many people here willing to help should you have questions Tdm.

Cheers

Dan

[Dr Al]

37111 must be a repaint or renumber as I'm sure Farish did not produce this number.

The history of 37s is as follows:

- original model - running on 3 pole single chassis with class 47 bogies (early 1980s) with directional lights
- later version of the above with correct bogie sideframes for class 37 (in various 5 pole motor flavours, no running lights)
- split chassis Poole style body Bachmann versions, with finer blackened wheels, but still the old dated body
- new tool model. This was completely new, no old parts used. Correct length (all of the above are stretched to fit the 47 chassis block), directional LED lighting, correct diameter wheels, superdetail running on a split style chassis with NEM 6 pic DCC PCB and 3 pole double flywheel can motor.

It seems likely the EWS one you have is a new tool, and if it's not running check that the contacts that take power from the PCB to the motor are making good contact with the motor itself. Check too that power is getting to the PCB (if the lights work then it will be).

The older model could have a variety of problems, but the most common is usually split gears which can either be replaced on the existing axles, or the wheels can be fully replaced:

http://www.ngaugesociety.com/index.php?page=split-gears
If you have other symptoms you can identify it may help in advising you what to look at as likely cause of failure.

HTH,
Alan

[Newportnobby]

I also have on pre-order from Hattons the new weathered green Class 37 which was supposedly available June/July - anyone any ideas when it might eventually become available?

Likewise, Terry. Sadly none of the manufacturers' idea of availability is accurate.
Maybe June/July 2015?

[MJKERR]

Farish 37111 chassis
As above, you could send this to BR Lines for repair
This will cost you about £20 plus the postage (another £10)

You might find it cheaper to just source another fully working Class 37 and turn 37111 into dummy loco, and then work them as a pair

[DesertHound]

Tdm - any chance to get together with the other NGS folk on the island to come up with a fix? I'm sure between the lot of you you'll identify what you need. Put it to one side, look at some other locos that might need some spares (or ask the others on the island if they need any) and then place one order with Bob for what's needed.

I hate to see locos cast aside as "unrepairable".

Your choice ultimately of course.

Dan

[Dr Al]

I hate to see locos cast aside as "unrepairable".

Whilst I don't like to see repairable models stripped or scrapped, I can understand the economics behind it - sometimes it's just not economically viable - if it costs £30 to repair (as quoted above) you could buy a complete replacement for not much more secondhand, or be half way to the cost of a (far superior) brand new model. Each to their own, but the original Farish 37 is now pretty dated (basic model is now around 33 years old), and the new models do emphasise this.

Cheers,
Alan

[DesertHound]

Well I guess for the newer ones with all the tech wizz of PCB's yes, it's probably not economical and a dummy wouldn't be a bad option. The Poole chassis are very cheap to repair (I think the armature is the most expensive part at 15 quid or so) but if it's gears / brushes / bogie towers then it's very doable for a reasonable price (if you can do it yourself).

Agreed though, the newer ones might not be worth it. I was shocked when I saw the price of a PCB - something like 25 quid. You can pick up a complete Poole loco for that sometimes!

Dan

[Dr Al]

Agreed though, the newer ones might not be worth it. I was shocked when I saw the price of a PCB - something like 25 quid. You can pick up a complete Poole loco for that sometimes!

That perhaps says as much about perception of poole models than the cost of PCBs.... It's less about the repairability of them than the realism and fidelity. The new models are a huge step up in terms of compromises - there are far fewer:

- correct length model (the original 37 is overscale by many scale feet due to compromise of sitting on a 47 chassis). Surprisingly, there was never much comment on this until the retool came out and folk started noticing it
- working lights (only a few Poole models had these)
- better scale bogies, accurate diameter wheels, unlike the Poole models which are all out in terms of scale
- closer to accurate ride height (still higher than necessary, but not as glaring as the Poole ones)
- NEM couplers
- NEM DCC plug and play socket(for those who are DCC inclined)

to name but a few. I was happy with old Poole models until relatively recently when they suddenly started to look *very* dated to me compared to the modern equivalents, and that's no real surprise for 30 year old models.

In terms of repairability, the motors on the new tool model are common to many chassis and of a common form factor, so can use manufacturer original, or even be replaced with something else (Mashima 1015 is one example replacement) so there's plenty of repair options there.

Often a PCB is quoted as needing to be replaced, but it's doubtful that many components are actually damaged on it - the circuitry isn't massively complex, and if the offending component can be identified then it can be replaced on its own at a fraction of the cost of a complete new board. Certainly this is possible with the SMT LEDs used in the lighting - I've replaced a couple that have given out for the cost of less than a pound each.

In terms of Poole stuff, replacement wheels to fix split gears are now over £17 a set from BR Lines, which is starting to get quite an amount if you then add any additional sundries like brushes or springs or added gears/pickups. That's before adding a labour cost if you don't do your own repairs. If I was in that scenario I'd probably be looking seriously at scrapping it and obtaining a new model. It'll just depend on the specific model I guess as to what's worth doing.

Cheers,
Alan

[DesertHound]

In terms of Poole stuff, replacement wheels to fix split gears are now over £17 a set from BR Lines, which is starting to get quite an amount if you then add any additional sundries like brushes or springs or added gears/pickups. That's before adding a labour cost if you don't do your own repairs. If I was in that scenario I'd probably be looking seriously at scrapping it and obtaining a new model. It'll just depend on the specific model I guess as to what's worth doing.

Agreed, that's a pretty sum if you're replacing whole wheel sets. Gears on their own though, as you know, are cheaper by multiples. Something like 6 quid for 6 x 16 tooth gears. Just depends if somebody is willing to fit them themselves though. It's always cheaper to do it yourself (if you don't break it further that is). If you go direct to source you might be looking at a couple of quid for six, according to someone who bought some on here.

As you say, each to their own, and ultimately it's down to the individual as to what they feel most comfortable with, taking into account cost, confidence to undertake the repair etc. What I would say is that if anybody does have any Farish stock that they think is good for scrap, then please let me know, or at least whack it on ebay or the forum for somebody to buy (unless they are turning it into a dummy of course).

Dan

[Tdm]

Thanks for all your comments - I would have replied sooner but been unable to access the Forum for past few hours. Keeping this reply short in case it goes again.

[oreamnos]

Three variants of the Farish 37.  L to R, 100% Poole, complete retool BachFar, and Bachfar split frame with the BachFar version of Poole body.

I agree the new tooled version is the best, but together they actually look all right.

Matt