Points

gman3000 · August 07, 2014, 01:44:26 PM

Hi everyone, can I manual operate peco pionts?

Thanks?

Karhedron · August 07, 2014, 01:46:41 PM

Yes, there is a small "pip" at either end of the tie bar allowing you to throw the switch manually if you wish.

gman3000 · August 07, 2014, 01:58:03 PM

Ok thanks. Do i need to do any wiring?

Karhedron · August 07, 2014, 02:02:53 PM

In theory you do not need wiring. The blades provide electrical contact to the correct route.

In practice, wiring may be a good idea as as it makes the electrical contact reliable and stops problems that may be caused by dirt getting on the point blades.

gman3000 · August 07, 2014, 02:19:43 PM

Great, thanks for your quick replay.

petercharlesfagg · August 08, 2014, 08:45:04 AM

Quote from: Karhedron on August 07, 2014, 02:02:53 PM
In theory you do not need wiring. The blades provide electrical contact to the correct route.

In practice, wiring may be a good idea as as it makes the electrical contact reliable and stops problems that may be caused by dirt getting on the point blades.

Thanks for the ego boost but..........

I thought I would use insulfrog points all round but intermittently get problems of non-contact between the blade and track.

Where would you suggest taking a wire from/to to alleviate this problem?

Apologies for the hijack, Peter.

Bealman · August 08, 2014, 09:08:15 AM

Even live frog points can have the same problem. Peco point blades sometimes need a gentle tweaking even straight out of the box.

The main problems I have with insulated frogs are short wheelbase locos stalling on them, and their unprototypical appearance.

Karhedron · August 08, 2014, 09:52:36 AM

Quote from: petercharlesfagg on August 08, 2014, 08:45:04 AM
Quote from: Karhedron on August 07, 2014, 02:02:53 PM
In practice, wiring may be a good idea as as it makes the electrical contact reliable and stops problems that may be caused by dirt getting on the point blades.
Where would you suggest taking a wire from/to to alleviate this problem?

It depends on the configuration of your layout and whether you need the point to be isolated or not (i.e. if you drive a loco onto a siding and set the points for the other route, do you want the loco to stop).

If you don't plan to use a particular siding for parking locos then the simplest solution is to wire the toe ends of the points together to make both routes permanently live. This solution is not applicable with things like run-around loops as you may end up creating a short circuit.

Malc · August 08, 2014, 10:25:30 AM

Just read Karhedron's reply and I'm not sure I understand what he means. I would have thought that a wire from each stock rail to the corresponding frog rail would do. I believe this is what Peco do underneath their points. Ie LHS stock rail to RHS frog rail and vice versa.

Bealman · August 08, 2014, 10:29:56 AM

That is exactly what they do.

DCCDave · August 08, 2014, 06:52:59 PM

The V of the point (beyond the frog needs to have it's polarity switched when the point moves. The point blades achieve this because they either touch one rail on another. However if dirt/corrosion/gremlins get between the rail and the point blade then the V can loses power. Point blades will get mucky, but if you clean them regularly then it should be OK.

However experience on several previous (including exhibition) layouts shows that these gremlins strike at just the wrong time. That's why I (and plenty others) add an extra wire to the frog that is switched with the point eliminating the need for electrical contact between the running rail and blade. It's belt and braces mentality!

Cheers
Dave