what are people doing on their layout right now

Started by B1 61126, August 16, 2011, 07:59:35 PM

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KevTheBusDriver

This afternoon I was preparing several locos for renumbering (having ordered several sets of transfers from RailTec).
First up, a Farish Green 47 D1572 which needed all it's numbers removing. A little clean white spirit on a clean cotton bud, all numbers removed in about 5 minutes with little difficulty.
Next a Farish blue 47, 47035, these numbers came off very quickly and I managed to retain the data panels on both sides.
Farish Class 37 37238; again these came off very quickly and I retained the data panels.
Farish Green Class 20 D8158: these rubbed off in about 3 minutes and the cabside paintwork is still lovely!
Farish Green Class 25 D5177: got all 4 numbers off and kept the works plates in situ.
Farish Blue class 25 25231: a little more difficult, but made a clean job of removing the numbers both sides.
Farish Blue class 25 D7667: a bit harder this one - numbers, data panels, 'M's and arrows all removed - eventually. This one took a lot longer (paint must be older/harder, perhaps?).
Apparently I aleady have the numbers to put on the ex-D7667... job for tomorrow, maybe? :)

grumbeast

Benchwork for me.. cutting the wood for the extension to Aberfilli, and also managed to cut and assemble the framing for the last board for Moreteesburgh (and 8" x 6' viaduct shelf piece


Tonye

Testing my layout in readiness for the Burton show on Sep 10th.

Tony.
Tony .H

AndyRA


Running the layout over the Bank Holiday Weekend.


If it looks difficult it probably is, but might as well get on with it anyway!

Layout :- West Coast (Southern Section)
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;su=user;cat=2531;u=5731

Full story and pics at:-
https://www.facebook.com/WestCoastSouthernSection/

Portpatrick

What am I doing to Cromarty, my lockdown project?  It is now set up on its trestles in a spare bedroom .  I have moved the control panel from the front (at home it is against a wall)  to the rear.  I have added the "skirt to the front.  Checking it, and main stock items, for its first public showing at the Oxford show on 17 Sept.  It is aso booked for Silverfox in 2024.

chrism

Adding bits to Furness Terrace;

https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?msg=806638

Chicken coop and run now added to one garden, various bits prepared and waiting for the paint to dry for other ones.

Newportnobby

I spent 6 hours on my feet yesterday applying the 'weaving' to one of the 6 boards of Kimbolted and consequently feel cream crackered, and I've only done 1 of the 2 running lines :doh:  :doh:
It doesn't help that I keep needing tools that are somewhere else and then not in the room I thought they were in (and I've only got 6 to choose from!) so my step count is probably at least twice what is required. Everything is screw fitting and, believe it or not, I actually know what each piece of wire is and all are colour coded :claphappy:
Yes - I know one of the support battens is wonky but I had to slide it between the point motors just to get it in. Taking a break today for lunch with sis and eldest niece :foodanddrink:


Roy L S

I have been working on CAD for a 3D printed model of the sadly recently demolished (thanks to HS2) of the former Station Master's house at Calvert on the Great Central. This is for possible (Group decision) inclusion on Tring Club's Catesby Sidings layout. This is a first test-print, complexities of the roof made it a challenge and it hasn't come out 100% as I would have liked, but the question is do I try to re-work the CAD or start again  :hmmm:







Second project is for me, my previously shown GN Clerestory Luggage Brake. The first sprayed paint job was a disaster, so this one I ended up doing old school with a "hairy stick". BR Crimson is probably a bit of a stretch, but it does look at home behind the milk tanks. The only question is whether I leave the roof dirty black or paint it grey...



Roy

crewearpley40


Trainfish

Quote from: Newportnobby on August 28, 2023, 10:25:44 AMIt doesn't help that I keep needing tools that are somewhere else and then not in the room I thought they were in (and I've only got 6 to choose from!)

I think you've done well to get this far with just 6 tools  :thumbsup:
John

In April 2024 I will be raising money for Cancer Research UK by doing at least 100 press-ups every day.  Feel free to click on the picture to go to the donations page if you would like to help me to reach my target.



To follow the construction of my layout "Longcroft" from day 1, you'll have to catch the fish below first by clicking on it which isn't difficult right now as it's frozen!

<*))))><

5213 65J

#3341
I've just finished building some Chiver's Fine Lines kits for my LMS layout: RC963 Long Low, RC964 Double Bolster and RC965 Tube wagons. Overall I'm pleased with the results although I'm glad I'm not a beginner! They are finished with Modelmaster transfers. It's good to see that they are on sale from the N Gauge Society again.

Newportnobby

Just sat down after 3½ hours wiring the 2nd running line on the board shown above. Much Anglo-Saxon and coloured wire used. The umbilicals between boards are in place. All that's left to complete that board is to wire up the 'A' and 'B' on the Seeps for the studs, but maybe the odd one or two may have to be switched round after testing, which will be a long way off. With 6 points on this board that will fill a length of choc block. The next fiddle yard board will be the same and the 2 x front scenic boards each have 3 points. I really have made a rod for my own back with this lot, and that's just the lower level :doh:

crewearpley40

That's a well earned glass of drink mick after standing for ages wiring yesterday and today.



KevTheBusDriver

Whilst waiting for the transfers to arrive from Railtec, I changed the headcodes on the green ex-D1572 from Farish (371-825B)... I hope there's a photo of the 'bits' below; after removing the body, prising the body sides apart carefully allows removal of the bufferbeam moulding. The clear plastic 'light guide' can then be carefully lifted/pulled out (remember this goes through the tiny holes on the cab front!), prising the body sides again releases the cab interior from the cabside glazing (!). I needed to remove all the glazing in order to repaint the cab; the front window moulding presses inwards (carefully 'cos there's a bit of glue holing it secure). The cabside glazing can then be 'pushed inwards' OR (as I did) prised away from the bodyside using tiny tweezers - a cocktail stick might do the job. The headcode glass is a push fit from OUTSIDE - I got mine out by pushing them out from inside with the end of a tiny paint brush handle. The headcode printing is a wondrous thing - but it's got to go(!) I scraped off all the paint from the inside.. the new headcode (printed on photo paper) was stuck with PVA to the inside of the headcode glass before clipping it back in place. It still lights up!
Re-assembly is just reverse of the above; I used a tiny drop of PVA to secure the front screen moulding but nothing on the side glazing.
The photo shows a bit of black insulation tape over the end of the light guide 'cos I find tail lamps lit on locos hauling trains really annoying! It's a definite NO-NO on the real railway!

Hopefully there is a photo of the completed cab front below, too...
I know 0O00 is a boring headcode but that's what you got in 1975...

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