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Author Topic: Track alignment across boards  (Read 2630 times)

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Offline trainsdownunder

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Re: Track alignment across boards
« Reply #15 on: August 29, 2012, 03:07:16 PM »
Quote
I was very surprised that even the No Nails failed.

Usually find you need at least 24 hours for No Nails to reach full strength. Anything sooner can result in failure.

Offline Cimmerian

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Re: Track alignment across boards
« Reply #16 on: August 29, 2012, 03:09:13 PM »
More trial & error experimenting with various glues, I've tried Unibond "No Nails" which normally sticks anything to anything and another Unibond product. Neither held after about six hours of drying time  :( I was very surprised that even the No Nails failed.

PLD - What was the name of the adhesive that you mentioned?

Sounds to me like the evo-stik I have on the shelf in front of me at work. Every word he used is on the bottle.   ;D
Regards, Ken

Offline PLD

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Re: Track alignment across boards
« Reply #17 on: August 29, 2012, 05:45:18 PM »
PLD - What was the name of the adhesive that you mentioned?
Sounds to me like the evo-stik I have on the shelf in front of me at work. Every word he used is on the bottle.   ;D
Yep!  :thumbsup:

As well as a stronger bond, it is also water resistant so the track doesn't shift when you balast it...

Offline PLD

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Re: Track alignment across boards
« Reply #18 on: August 29, 2012, 05:50:06 PM »
the    snag  with    sticking   track   down   is  that  is   very  difficult  to  adjust  if it  moves...or  gets  knocked...

with   soldering you  can   make   small  adjustments  if  needed
Yes it can move while the glue sets, but if you stick it down properly it doesn't move once the glue dries, and is no more vunerable to knocks than if soldered!

Offline Jfheath

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Re: Track alignment across boards
« Reply #19 on: October 01, 2012, 05:08:51 PM »
By no means an expert, but I've tried a few methods.  THis one being the most successful:

Edge of baseboard is good and solid, not soft baseboard or cork.
Make sure you have some alignment device.  I have used alignmnet dowels, and door hinges with the pin removed.  Alignment dowels are neater.
Make sure baseboard is joined properly, but insert a credit card at the point where the track is to be joined, to keep the two sections apart slightly.
Lay track with sleepers cut away in a section about 4cm long.  Check the gap under the sleeperless rail.  Mark position of track.
Lift track section.  Epoxy the PCB strips - I have 4mm wide strips, and I use 3 of these for the rail ends.  Let it set.  Hard.
Clean copper surface.  Lay track, and secure it in the correct position.
Solder the rail to the copper clad 'sleepers'.  Don't use too much heat, it will lift the copper.  Don't press down on rails - let solder fill the gap between rail and sleeper, if there is one.

Then, becasue the latest layout id for a grandson, and might get knocked about a bit - Apply milliput moulding epoxy to the outside of the rails.  Mould it with wet finger, and squash it into the corner between the outside rail and the baseboard.  You are building a small triangle alongside the rail.  Dont worry about any on the rails, it scrapes off.  Let it set.

Once set, use a Dremel or similar to cut through the rail.  Take board apart and smooth ends.  File the inside of each rail to make a slight chamfer, so that any slight misalignment does not result in a wheel catching a square edge.  Not too much though.

Remove credit card, and any glue / milliput that has got down the join and put the boards together again.  Depending on the thickness of your credit card and the thickness of the Dremel cut, you may need to grind a bit of the end of the rail away.  The credit card was to compensate for the thickness of the cut.

Fasten the board together again and check the alignment.

The milliput helps to prevent the rail being 'caught' and sprung out of position.  The glue holding the copper to the PCB is not strong, and it has been weakened by applying heat when you soldered.  The milliput takes some of the load, and can be buried in ballast, or painted, later. 
 

 

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