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Author Topic: Sammmm's Workbench  (Read 701 times)

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Offline Sammmm

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Sammmm's Workbench
« on: February 12, 2020, 09:38:58 PM »
Hi All!

I thought it was about time to start my own workbench thread in the hope it might spur me on to do more modelling and maybe start a layout thread when I get some more traction with building it!

As it stand updates will probably be a bit sporadic to say the least.

Starting of with a batch of 5 NGS Seacows, to be built as Sealions, picked up when they had the small batch done. There are actually 6 but being this was the first time of building the kit I thought it is much better to try one out before jumping in and doing all 6 at once.

First off all the main body parts were taken off the sprues and cleaned up ready to start assembly.



Closely followed by fitting the lower hopper sections to all the sides then marrying them all together, and before you know it they are starting to look like wagons...a bit





At this point everything was left to harden a few hours before fitting the floors & bogie pivots & other plastic details. The ends were then cleaned up as per the instructions.



Well thats as far as they've gotten and will likely stay that way until I get round to getting the airbrush out. The plan is to paint the main bodies and get decals on, then pre paint the etch details before folding and fitting, leaving...hopefully only touchups on the details after.

Initial Paint will be the dark engineers olive they were delivered new in and then toned way back with weathering...but thats still a way off yet!

Also in my kit box I have 10 of the Kit 4 Sealion etches that the NGS were selling off for 50p each so couldnt refuse them at that price! In time I'm sure I'll get a assembly line of these going but first I need to source the other bits for them, I reckon this may end up with me joining the 2mm Association to access their shop.

Finally, I've always had issues with the Parkside Chassis. What ever I seem to do they either bow in or the axles are not straight especially on the kits where the Parkside headstocks aren't used and sometimes you have to trim them down ever so slightly, so I'd had enough and thought up a way I could make that part of kit building more bearable.

Que, half hour on SketchUp...



.... and another half hour pondering if I really want to spend the money on a jig.. I clicked the button and a week or so later I'm presented with this small 30mm x 15mm block of plastic (that's rather hard to image!).



One NGS 21T Mineral Wagon and one Parkside Chassis for a 21T Hopper later and to my delight it worked!





The pips fit lovely into the holes for the axles meaning they are now straight and true each time, no more bowing inwards or outwards(by use of a gentle clamp) as the solvents dry and nice free running axles everytime! The only drawbacks is I can only build one chassis at a time until the other is fully hardened and also time will tell how the small 0.7mmx1mm dia standoffs last before one gets snapped off.

Shapeways may have a more durable plastic I could use but I wasn't sure how well the standoffs would print and they are the most vital part so maybe some more experimenting to come.


Thanks!

Sam
« Last Edit: February 12, 2020, 09:43:42 PM by Sammmm »

Online njee20

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Re: Sammmm's Workbench
« Reply #1 on: February 13, 2020, 08:38:29 AM »
Ingenious, I like it. Looks like a good time to buy your own 3D printer!

Offline maridunian

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Re: Sammmm's Workbench
« Reply #2 on: February 13, 2020, 11:36:15 AM »
Great innovation there!

Shapeways may have a more durable plastic I could use but I wasn't sure how well the standoffs would print and they are the most vital part so maybe some more experimenting to come.

Yes, their White Flexible Plastic is cheap and as tough as old boots. Dimensionally, prints are fine, although the surface is porous and rough so edges lack sharp definition.

Since the pips will always be vulnerable, or if tougher, might distort the solebars as you withdraw the jig, I wondered whether some U-shaped wings on the jig, spaced to hold the moulded axle-boxes, might work?

Mike
My layout: Mwynwr Tryciau Colliery, the Many Tricks Mine.

My 3D Modelshop: Maridunian's Models

Offline Fardap

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Re: Sammmm's Workbench
« Reply #3 on: February 13, 2020, 01:56:00 PM »
Maybe you could replace the standoffs with a metal rod through the die - would be more durable than the printed versions and replaceable if there was an issue down the line - would mean having to drill them unless you can get a hole through a design printed?

Great idea though

Offline Sammmm

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Re: Sammmm's Workbench
« Reply #4 on: February 13, 2020, 08:03:58 PM »
Thanks njee, a Anycubic Photon S is on my future purchase/wishlist!

Thanks for that Mike, this was printed in their Smoothest Detail Plastic which I believe is the old ĎFUDí I may look into the white plastic one in future though, the cost doesnít change massively on it as it pretty much sits on their minimum print cost for each material. RE the pips I may do the below if they do break off.

Maybe you could replace the standoffs with a metal rod through the die - would be more durable than the printed versions and replaceable if there was an issue down the line - would mean having to drill them unless you can get a hole through a design printed?

Great idea though

That could be the next thing to try, see if I can get the hole printed, then instead of rod maybe sacrifice 2 axles so that the pin points sit perfectly in the holes.

With that idea in mind does anyone know or could they measure the diameter of Parkside axles? I have a feeling they are 1.4mm but donít have callipers to check.

Online njee20

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Re: Sammmm's Workbench
« Reply #5 on: February 13, 2020, 08:16:19 PM »
Iíd recommend a normal Photon over an S (or an Elegoo Mars) - they cut a lot of corners on the S, and whilst thereís a huge community of people modifying and supporting Photons, the S is totally incompatible.

Offline Sammmm

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Re: Sammmm's Workbench
« Reply #6 on: February 13, 2020, 09:24:51 PM »
Iíd recommend a normal Photon over an S (or an Elegoo Mars) - they cut a lot of corners on the S, and whilst thereís a huge community of people modifying and supporting Photons, the S is totally incompatible.

Cheers for that, i've not looked to much into them yet but think i'll definetly look into the Photon and also what can be done with it from what youve said.

Offline maridunian

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Re: Sammmm's Workbench
« Reply #7 on: February 13, 2020, 10:48:11 PM »

Maybe you could replace the standoffs with a metal rod through the die - would be more durable than the printed versions and replaceable if there was an issue down the line - would mean having to drill them unless you can get a hole through a design printed?

Great idea though

That could be the next thing to try, see if I can get the hole printed, then instead of rod maybe sacrifice 2 axles so that the pin points sit perfectly in the holes.

I'd worry about replicating the axles in a jig that has to be removed vertically - when we pop an axle out, it tends to be one wheel at a time, so the sole bars only stretch by less-than-one tapered end. To remove an axle vertically, they'll need to part by two tapered ends worth, roughly 2mm....

Mike
My layout: Mwynwr Tryciau Colliery, the Many Tricks Mine.

My 3D Modelshop: Maridunian's Models

Offline Sammmm

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Re: Sammmm's Workbench
« Reply #8 on: February 15, 2020, 11:26:40 PM »

Maybe you could replace the standoffs with a metal rod through the die - would be more durable than the printed versions and replaceable if there was an issue down the line - would mean having to drill them unless you can get a hole through a design printed?

Great idea though

That could be the next thing to try, see if I can get the hole printed, then instead of rod maybe sacrifice 2 axles so that the pin points sit perfectly in the holes.

I'd worry about replicating the axles in a jig that has to be removed vertically - when we pop an axle out, it tends to be one wheel at a time, so the sole bars only stretch by less-than-one tapered end. To remove an axle vertically, they'll need to part by two tapered ends worth, roughly 2mm....

Mike

You do make a fair point there Mike, it may make the chassis truely square but destroy in in doing so! Hopefully the standoffs i have last a while if im careful..if not just another reason to bump a 3d printer up on my wishlist to save shapeways costs.

Offline Sammmm

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Re: Sammmm's Workbench
« Reply #9 on: February 15, 2020, 11:51:14 PM »
Well spured on by the Class 52 announcements from CMC and Osborne some modelling got done this evening!

I dug through my stock boxes, and found my 4 Dapol Grampus's, got on Paul Bartlett's brilliant website and set too it, I still have Dogfish's & Mermaids to do but thought the Grampus were the cheapest and easiest to replace if I bugger up!

The subject for this evening - Wheelsets already removed for painting ( excuse any distortion in the picture it was taken through my magnifier. )



Some time later and were getting to what I wanted to run in my engineering train (when I actually lay track!), Unloved - abused but still running..just.



Some more time later all 4 were 95% done all that remains is a dusting of frame dirt in the airbrush to just tie it all together so they look like they've been out on the network not just sat in a yard, sat here on a scrap bit of Code 55 (layouts planned to be Code 40) with some other wagons waiting for the weather to warm so I can get some matt cote on them. I know you dont have to seal weathering but as I cannot leave my stock out on the layout it has to be handled in and out of storage boxes so would rather seal them to prevent me ruining it with finger prints and also transfering powders to everything else.



And here's everything used to get to that point, I may do a breakdown of how I do it in the future. All Acrylics bar the Gloss Cote for the 'buffer grease'



I'll probably be doing more weathering for a while than anything.. I have a soft spot for Westerns and pre ordered D1000 (Desert Sand - Weathered - Hoping they get a good job on this) D1015 (Golden Ochre) D1035 (BR Green SYP) and D1043 (BR Blue SYP) so pennies need to be saved for Q3 this year! Although if Overtime at work pops up enough I may be able to get the Finetrax to crack on with the scenic part of the layout (fiddleyards already done and wired)
 


Offline Sammmm

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Re: Sammmm's Workbench
« Reply #10 on: February 29, 2020, 09:48:01 PM »
Evening all!

Very short update today. Popped to my local model shop (unfortunatly no N gauge related items there) however they had some Testors dullcote there which they said was a one off. So two cans were purchased duly.

The grampus' and box vans have have a single waft of the dullcote. It seems to have toned it back quite nicely, still just the dusting of frame dirt to apply with the airbrush. In future i'll do this before varnish, this time I was just curious as to how the powders would tone down.

Before


After


Before (with orignal un touched van)


After ((with orignal un touched van)


5 More NGS 21T mineral wagon kits are on their way to me along side 2 sharks taking my shark total to 4, planning on 2 black and 2 olive, Although the KR one may surface before I actually finish these! Once they're built I'll be having a mass prime up, what's peoples experience with Vallejo Primer? I'm not a fan of using aerosol primer especialy in N gauge as I find it has too much of a highbuild (although usefull if trying to hide errors and sins!)

Thanks!

Sam


Online exmouthcraig

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Re: Sammmm's Workbench
« Reply #11 on: February 29, 2020, 10:03:20 PM »
Looking good @Sammmm

I bought Vallejo primer as i thought that a decent primer would at least help me get some decent results.

I found that it peels off far to easily, everything got a good scrub first but found it's kind of waxy and not that great.

I know what your saying about rattle cans for primer BUT I have gone back to a proper plastics primer in rattle cans and then airbrush top colours and weathering.

So unfortunately I cant (others may) recommend Vallejo primer I'm afraid.

Offline Sammmm

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Re: Sammmm's Workbench
« Reply #12 on: March 13, 2020, 10:14:48 PM »
Looking good @Sammmm

I bought Vallejo primer as i thought that a decent primer would at least help me get some decent results.

I found that it peels off far to easily, everything got a good scrub first but found it's kind of waxy and not that great.

I know what your saying about rattle cans for primer BUT I have gone back to a proper plastics primer in rattle cans and then airbrush top colours and weathering.

So unfortunately I cant (others may) recommend Vallejo primer I'm afraid.

Thanks for that, may steer clear of it then, sounds like the waxyness comes from it being a waterbased product, used to work in the car refinishing trade and had the same problems with waterbased primers, they never seemed to dry as hard or rub down aswell as cellulose or solvent based products.

Anyways, another short update....

5 more NGS 21T mineral wagons on their way, the jig seems to holding up well and still producing nicely running chassis.



Next up the bodies were batch built, the kits are definetly showing their age and need ALOT of cleaning up, and dont stand well to close up scruntiny. But for the price of them and the viewing distance they'll be seen from they are worth every penny.



Just need to have a final clean up before fitting to their chassis and then they'll join the ever growing backlog that needs painting.

On another front I've been experimenting with couplings...

I spent a short while modelling in 4mm....albeit still on 9mm track! 009 Narrow Gauge. I always used greenwich couplings and had a few left over aswell as a pack of the NEM type. The long term plan is to erradicate rapido couplings where I can but without hacking up NEM pockets which are on most of the more 'valuable' stock so if the event ever comes where I need to sell I can just revert back. HOWEVER the greenwich coupling doesn't look or give as close coupling as DG.. I think. So over the next few months I'm hoping to test the inter-operability of them as i'd rather have DG on the stock without NEM pockets for the look. Theory says it works as both couplings sit at around 5.5-6mm  but time and tests will tell! (Need to actually buy some DG first)

A few greenwich were made up, some with loops and some with out. Loops to be fitted to stock and no loops to locos. Below are the results.

Fitted to my impulse Ebay purchase of a TMC weathered BR Green 52...must rememeber to cancel my pre order of that one! And a MK1


Gap buffer head to buffer head


Gap with couplings in tension


End of the month i'll probably get some DG to make up and will update you with the results!

Offline Sammmm

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Re: Sammmm's Workbench
« Reply #13 on: April 12, 2020, 09:21:06 AM »
Quick update,

The last few evenings modelling has been focusing on pushing the layout forward.

Iíll start a layout thread when I get round to laying the track, for now though Iíve been building the FiNetrax up, I always am to do this is the biggest manageable sections. Doing this seems to give the best running qualities through point work as thereís less joins also less droppers are needed! The below junction is all one unit with the only joints being at the frogs. Still some work to go, fitting frog and rail droppers, fitting false chairs on the cast frogs, and painting the flangeways of the frogs so that nothing gets missed when the track work is painted and weathered in situ. Still to build is another B6 and single slip, then I can start laying it all.


Offline Roy L S

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Re: Sammmm's Workbench
« Reply #14 on: April 12, 2020, 10:14:01 AM »
Quick update,

The last few evenings modelling has been focusing on pushing the layout forward.

I’ll start a layout thread when I get round to laying the track, for now though I’ve been building the FiNetrax up, I always am to do this is the biggest manageable sections. Doing this seems to give the best running qualities through point work as there’s less joins also less droppers are needed! The below junction is all one unit with the only joints being at the frogs. Still some work to go, fitting frog and rail droppers, fitting false chairs on the cast frogs, and painting the flangeways of the frogs so that nothing gets missed when the track work is painted and weathered in situ. Still to build is another B6 and single slip, then I can start laying it all.



I don't know how I missed this thread up to now!

Some fabulous work there, I am loving the "cut and shuts" of the Finetrax pointwork especially.

Roy

 

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