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Author Topic: Proposed layout  (Read 1688 times)

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Offline IanF

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Re: Proposed layout
« Reply #30 on: May 07, 2020, 07:13:54 PM »
Have you put in extra cross bracing under the base board Ian?

Also your top looks to be quite thin....

Yes - 3 cross braces underneath - screwed and glued. Top is 6mm ply - glued and panel pinned to the base
Help - I don't know what I'm doing

Offline Newportnobby

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Re: Proposed layout
« Reply #31 on: May 07, 2020, 07:28:35 PM »
Sadly DIY sheds are quite renowned for their poor wood. You might get away with it but I'd suggest you lay a couple of lengths of track on the board and see whether any rolling stock stays where you put it. If not, I think you may have to start again as you don't want stock rolling out of sidings etc :no:

Offline IanF

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Re: Proposed layout
« Reply #32 on: May 07, 2020, 08:15:36 PM »
Sadly DIY sheds are quite renowned for their poor wood. You might get away with it but I'd suggest you lay a couple of lengths of track on the board and see whether any rolling stock stays where you put it. If not, I think you may have to start again as you don't want stock rolling out of sidings etc :no:
I fear you are right - less haste - and I've been very patient up until then, building a test board, trying out different techniques, etc.
I'll pop down to builders merchants this weekend, they didn't have any last time I went. Oh well, back to some pigeon poo soldering and see if I can perfect that :'(
And while I'm at it having a moan - struggling to get some points SL391F or a bit of straight track (6 metres) at the moment - lots of places seem to be sold out.
Help - I don't know what I'm doing

Offline degsy_safc

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Re: Proposed layout
« Reply #33 on: May 08, 2020, 08:24:03 PM »
Sadly DIY sheds are quite renowned for their poor wood. You might get away with it but I'd suggest you lay a couple of lengths of track on the board and see whether any rolling stock stays where you put it. If not, I think you may have to start again as you don't want stock rolling out of sidings etc :no:
I fear you are right - less haste - and I've been very patient up until then, building a test board, trying out different techniques, etc.
I'll pop down to builders merchants this weekend, they didn't have any last time I went. Oh well, back to some pigeon poo soldering and see if I can perfect that :'(
And while I'm at it having a moan - struggling to get some points SL391F or a bit of straight track (6 metres) at the moment - lots of places seem to be sold out.

Hi Ian @IanF

Trackshack had those points on Thursday, not sure if they are still available - but there were a few when I looked.

Cheers Derek
Cheers Derek

Online crewearpley40

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Re: Proposed layout
« Reply #34 on: May 08, 2020, 08:29:34 PM »
Mick newport nobby may have track points unsold
  I would pm.him .for john dutfield 01245 494455
« Last Edit: May 08, 2020, 08:31:39 PM by crewearpley40 »

Offline IanF

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Re: Proposed layout
« Reply #35 on: May 09, 2020, 05:49:10 PM »

Thanks Crewe
Just ordered a bit of Kato track to test the board for rolling stock 'roll'. If board OK then I can wait a little longer for the 55 track. Plenty to be going on with but I am hoping PECO will be re-stocking their supplies to the shops soon
« Last Edit: May 09, 2020, 05:50:13 PM by IanF »
Help - I don't know what I'm doing

Online crewearpley40

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Re: Proposed layout
« Reply #36 on: May 09, 2020, 05:53:34 PM »
John dutfield should have a supply of code 55

Offline IanF

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Re: Proposed layout
« Reply #37 on: May 09, 2020, 06:02:17 PM »
John dutfield should have a supply of code 55

I'll give him a call - as long as he does not mind. Better leave it until Monday - would not want to disturb his weekend
Help - I don't know what I'm doing

Offline IanF

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Re: Proposed layout
« Reply #38 on: May 14, 2020, 07:43:40 PM »
So - I took a punt and painted the board and stuck down the points and slip onto it whilst waiting for some straight track to test if the bow would cause the stock to roll.





I ordered some Kato track whilst waiting for my Flextrack to test for this slight bow in the board. All is good no evidence of stock rolling on it's own so we are good to start.
I'll start with the main point sections and using the printed out templates I will get any wire holes drilled and mark the wire in tube runs, then gouge out the runs ready. Then it is soldering/wiring the point frogs (yet to look at the slip - too frightened!).





I suppose a list of 'works' and in which order should help - at least some sort of plan.
That should keep me busy until the next crisis  :worried:
Help - I don't know what I'm doing

Offline Newportnobby

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Re: Proposed layout
« Reply #39 on: May 14, 2020, 08:08:05 PM »
The omens look good, Ian. Seems the Gods have smiled on your wood :D

Offline DarrwestLU6

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Re: Proposed layout
« Reply #40 on: May 14, 2020, 10:52:36 PM »
Electrofrog double slip? It's not too bad. I got one by delivered by accident (not what I ordered) but on studying the wiring it's actually straightforward. You have four wires: one for each frog (so that's two) then one wire for each "side" - to illustrate what I mean - I've shown a blue side and and red side in the edited photo below - there's a wire connected to all the red bits and a wire connected to all the blue bits.



(If you look very carefully you'll see that this is superimposed on an old picture of an insulfrog double slip but don't worry, the explanation works for the electrofrog too, I just used this photo as I have it handy).

Now because it is electrofrog you do need two IRJ's on both rails coming out of each of the frogs (so that's a total of four IRJ's you will need) because the frogs switch polarity depending on the route set.

Here's an animated version of the wiring from: https://dccwiki.com/images/5/54/DoubleSlipFrogs.gif - wait a few seconds and you'll see the points change, I thought this was quite useful!



Don't worry this article is written about DCC - the wiring applies to DC or DCC.

If you would like to read more- here's the full article: https://dccwiki.com/Wiring_Crossings (scroll down to get to the Double Slip).

Hope that helps.

Hogwarts to King's Cross - My layout under construction: http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=43358.msg536504#msg536504

Offline IanF

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Re: Proposed layout
« Reply #41 on: May 18, 2020, 11:39:10 AM »
Thanks Darrwest,
Very helpful - mine is a single slip but process will be the same. Still waiting for the slip to arrive - everything is taking time. Also thanks to 'creweearplay' - have managed to get some track from John Dutfield  :claphappy:

Have started on the tube and wire for the points. I started with laying out the paper templates and then choosing the shortest and straightest route possible to the rear of the board with minimum curvature (maximum length of longest tube will be 300mm). Marked all switch cutouts and tube run - then started 'hacking' away at the board. Fortunately I had previously produced a plan of where everything was going (below);


Then - before the tube runs with some of the switches in place (not fixed yet) - I have also drilled 6mm holes for frog polarity switch wiring on the point crossings;


And after all switch cutouts made and a couple of tube runs (board is 6mm ply);


Does not look pretty at this stage but; a) it will behind a low backboard and b) the runs on the 'viewing side' will be covered by scenery. I also drilled 6mm holes at the end of the tube runs to allow some flexibility in final positioning should the point placement be a couple of mm out.
Help - I don't know what I'm doing

Offline IanF

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Re: Proposed layout
« Reply #42 on: June 01, 2020, 05:32:05 PM »
So I've made a start on the electrics. I decided to do this before the track was laid as I have all the points on paper templates so know where everything is going. The other reason is I did not want to constantly be laying the board down on it's track side whilst I did all this work below.
On the picture you will see I am trying to use the auxiliary 16v input from my Gaugemaster Combi controller not to control the points because they are tube and wire but the point indication lamps next to the point switches at the back of the board.

The rational is to avoid an extra 230v Ac to 5vDc PSU and use what I already have. I decide to try the circuit in the latest NGS magazine - at present I have burnt out one capacitor and melted part of a breadboard so not looking good. I think (besides me wiring it wrong) is that the IC1 unit is getting very hot as it has to dissipate 4.4 watt of energy - I will put a heat sink on and see how it goes (but it does feel like I'm trying to reinvent the wheel!! ::)
Help - I don't know what I'm doing

 

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