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Author Topic: cork underlay  (Read 1146 times)

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Offline ntpntpntp

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Re: cork underlay
« Reply #15 on: February 12, 2018, 08:54:52 PM »
1/16 should be fine.

Looking at what I've used, it's 1/16 on sidings and thicker (1/8 or 3mm) on the main lines, but I'm following a modular standard which specifies the measurement from top of baseboard surface to top of rail, and the thicker cork works out just right for underneath code 55 track.  It would be thinner cork if I were using code 80 track.  I like a decent ballast shoulder anyway so it suits me fine.
« Last Edit: February 12, 2018, 09:00:36 PM by ntpntpntp »
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Offline Delboy

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Re: cork underlay
« Reply #16 on: February 12, 2018, 08:59:57 PM »
I also use 1/8th and find it fine for for code 80 rail
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Offline Bealman

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Re: cork underlay
« Reply #17 on: February 12, 2018, 09:00:35 PM »
All sounds good to me. I too am keen on a ballast shoulder, but at one point on my layout I did away with the cork as a cost cutting measure, and have regretted it ever since.
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Offline The Q

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Re: cork underlay
« Reply #18 on: February 15, 2018, 07:28:56 AM »
Rather than buying more cork I'd be tempted to lay the track,and then using a sharp blade cut the shoulder into the cork already laid, and then cut another line a distance away from the track, and chisel out between the two.
« Last Edit: February 15, 2018, 07:30:27 AM by The Q »

Offline Caz

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Re: cork underlay
« Reply #19 on: February 15, 2018, 07:47:47 AM »
It works well, it is what on did on Claywell but remember before you cut away the waste cork to leave it in place for things like platforms etc.

Here's a couple of illustrations .

Bampney station with cork in place under platforms and before cutting back the cork to the track.




And after cutting and fully modelling




Claywell junction - cut shoulder between tracks and put a little grass and weeds in the depression, the far right of the picture shows a big shoulder where the ground starts to fall away.


« Last Edit: February 15, 2018, 08:13:56 AM by Caz, Reason: added pics »

Offline first timer

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Re: cork underlay
« Reply #20 on: March 16, 2018, 03:41:25 PM »
I have just spent 5 hours in my man cave trying to put 7/8 wide and 1/8 thick cork under my track straight bits ok but the curves oboy. I tried to pin it down with Peco pins what a load of cr*p so 2 things I need to buy good pins, where from? and I also need a small pin hammer again where from ?

  Please help a very short tempered chap.

    Cheers.
     Les.

Offline ntpntpntp

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Re: cork underlay
« Reply #21 on: March 16, 2018, 04:42:34 PM »
The trick with curves is to use use two narrower strips (I use half-inch) and lay either side of the centre line. It's easier to curve a narrow strip.

Use map pins (or similar) and heavy weights to hold the cork down while the glue dries. Definitely NOT Peco track pins!!



Use the Peco pins to secure the track if you must (I prefer to glue the track as you can see above), but don't use a hammer - just hold in snipe-nose pliers and push.  What board is underneath the cork?  You may have to pre-drill into that to get the pins to go all the way home.

Where I do use pins is on hidden trackwork and fiddleyards. For this I actually use Hornby track pins (or similar). Need to pre-drill the sleepers, but at least such pins can be driven home into the underlying board.  Use a small hammer and something like a nail punch - you don't want to be hammering close to the rail as you're bound to slip and damage something. My favourite "punch" is actually a T shaped piece that came from a coat-stand decades ago!

« Last Edit: March 16, 2018, 06:17:41 PM by ntpntpntp »
Nick.   2016 celebrating the 20th anniversary of "Königshafen" exhibition layout!

Offline first timer

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Re: cork underlay
« Reply #22 on: March 18, 2018, 11:43:28 AM »
I have sent for a roll of 1/16 thick cork roll so, how about 1/8 on the straights and 1/16 x2 on the curves  cut in half so as to bend them easy which should work out all level. What is the length of track on a level crossing? I will have to remove a st11 to accomadate it.

    Regards.
      Les

Offline kirky

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Re: cork underlay
« Reply #23 on: March 18, 2018, 12:28:09 PM »
I’m a bit perplexed by all this ‘correct’ thickness of ballast.
Surely ballast shoulder depths vary?
In real life railways there are certain situations where there is no shoulder, so a ballast depth of zero mm. In another situation I can think of a shoulder that is four feet high. You would need 8mm cork for that shoulder!
Just my 2p.
Cheers
Kirky
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Offline ntpntpntp

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Re: cork underlay
« Reply #24 on: March 18, 2018, 12:35:30 PM »
I’m a bit perplexed by all this ‘correct’ thickness of ballast.
Surely ballast shoulder depths vary?

Absolutely. It depends on the look you're striving for.  My layout is continental main line trackwork, so I use what I feel is suitable for that.  An old siding is unlikely to have the same care and attention paid to the state of the ballast.
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Offline Cumbrian

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Re: cork underlay
« Reply #25 on: April 07, 2018, 05:26:17 PM »
Yes, but can you source slightly thinner cork?
These guys do 1/16th" thick which, according to my brain, is roughly 1½mm.
Rolls for track and sheet for under structures.

http://www.charlescantrill.com/shop/model-railway/cork-rolls-tracklaying/

Another site for my rapidly expanding bookmarks section!

Offline Caz

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Re: cork underlay
« Reply #26 on: April 07, 2018, 07:09:46 PM »
If you want cheap cork, here in Spain you can by 10mtr rolls of cork about 30cm wide (form memory) from the likes of Leroy Merlin (Spanish B&Q) for about 12 euro, comes in 3 different thicknesses, I used it to cover my complete baseboard and just cut away where it wasn't need.  It's nice and light so shouldn't take you over your weight allowance for the return trip  ;)

 

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