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Author Topic: Introducing the Long Valley Industrial Railroad  (Read 3063 times)

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Offline Rich_S

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Re: Introducing the Long Valley Industrial Railroad
« Reply #60 on: June 27, 2019, 11:21:06 PM »
OK! Another good tip to put the roller on to of the Bright Boy!

We have two of those track cleaning cars at the HO club where I'm a member but I didn't know that they also came in N scale. On the HO system we put one in front of a couple of locomotives and one behind. We make several passes, the first one with Goo Gone and the follow-on ones with just dry Handi-wipes. Then we clean the wheels of the locomotives. Those things seem to pick up all of the stuff that the Goo Gone loosens up.

It's a never ending battle.  :D

Hi Tom, The N scale Centerline track cleaner I use with the bright boy is Model N-2
https://www.centerline-products.com/product-page/n-scale

The N scale Centerline track cleaner I use with the dry Handi-wipes roller is model D12
https://www.centerline-products.com/product-page/n-gauge-nmra-specification

The nice thing about both of these cars is they are solid brass, meaning they are pretty sure footed. If one of these cars derails, you have a track gauge problem. Since I run Atlas code 80 track, I put some old pizza cutter wheel sets in the Micro-Trains trucks to make them even more sure footed. I've had zero derailment issues placing these cars ahead of my locomotives.
Cheers,
Rich S.

Offline Rich_S

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Re: Introducing the Long Valley Industrial Railroad
« Reply #61 on: June 27, 2019, 11:50:43 PM »
For immediate release: The Penn Central Railroad Company Assumes Operations of the Long Valley Branch, effective January 1st, 1968

The current date is June 1972 and the PC railroad has been successfully operating the Long Valley Branch for the past 4 years. In my little world the PC never filed bankruptcy and continues to paint locomotives and rolling stock into the PC paint scheme.

Here we find LVWE (Long Valley Work Extra) working the industries in Long Valley with a brand new EMD GP38-2.








And now the rest of the story. This is the Kato GP38-2 that got me back into N scale model railroading. Before it's purchase in 1989, I was a combination arm chair modeler, HO scale modeler. Then one day I happen upon this Kato GP38-2 in the Conrail Paint Scheme in my local hobby shop.



The hobby shop owner also had the Micro-Trains pilot conversion kit in stock and that was all it took to convert me from a HO scale modeler to an N scale modeler.

With this model it was goodbye arm chair modeler. Being a apartment dweller, I was now finally able to build a layout. My first N scale layout was built on top of my coffee table and to date, I haven't looked back yet.

Having grown up in the PC era, I decided around 2000, to back date my Conrail GP38-2, to a PC GP38-2, using Scale Coat paint and Microscale decals. I'm very happy with the results. It's fun from time to time to take that walk down memory lane  :)
Cheers,
Rich S.

Offline dats475

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Re: Introducing the Long Valley Industrial Railroad
« Reply #62 on: June 28, 2019, 01:41:27 AM »
Let me get this straight, Rich.
You painted the locomotive from a Conrail one?
Man, you're an excellent modeller!
The PC engine is exceptionally well painted and the perfect decals job!!
I don't know anything about the engine but I like it a lot.
I'd like to own an Espee GP38-2 one day.

I went to the website for cleaning cars.
I wish I can get one of those but it's out of my budget.
My brother in law got CMX(?) cleaning car for $150!!
Now that's expensive!!

You're a Master N sca.......Wait a minute. You were an HO guy?!!  :scowl:
Well, it doesn't matter what scale you are modelling in.
All you need is the modelling of love!  :heart::-*

Dats
Best regards with my annoying moving signature.
  :drool: Dats  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxMwG2GNX3Va9AFLRaNH5xw

Offline AlexanderJesse

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Re: Introducing the Long Valley Industrial Railroad
« Reply #63 on: June 28, 2019, 08:52:32 AM »
Seconding dats' observations...

And talking about memory lane... Do you have more details on that coffee-table-top-layout?
=================
have a disney day
vapour is just water and therefor clean

Offline Rich_S

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Re: Introducing the Long Valley Industrial Railroad
« Reply #64 on: June 28, 2019, 12:22:20 PM »
Seconding dats' observations...

And talking about memory lane... Do you have more details on that coffee-table-top-layout?

Hi AlexanderJesse, I wish I would have taken a few photos of that layout, but I did not. It was a simple oval using 9.75 radius Atlas code 80 snap track. There was a passing siding on one side and the opposite side had a single spur. The side with the spur also had a Atlas thru girder bridge that crossed over a small lake. I had a low scenic divider running down the middle of the layout to separate one side from the other. I called the side with the passing siding the "City" side and the side with the short spur and lake was the "Country" side. On both ends the track ran through mountains made from Styrofoam sheets.



 
Cheers,
Rich S.

Offline Rich_S

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Re: Introducing the Long Valley Industrial Railroad
« Reply #65 on: June 28, 2019, 12:29:54 PM »
Let me get this straight, Rich.
You painted the locomotive from a Conrail one?
Man, you're an excellent modeller!
The PC engine is exceptionally well painted and the perfect decals job!!
I don't know anything about the engine but I like it a lot.
I'd like to own an Espee GP38-2 one day.

You're a Master N sca.......Wait a minute. You were an HO guy?!!  :scowl:
Well, it doesn't matter what scale you are modelling in.
All you need is the modelling of love!  :heart::-*

Dats

Thank you Dats for the compliments. Here are a few photos of my old HO scale 4' x 8' layout.





I painted and decaled all of the locomotives and most of the hopper cars, using Floquil paint and Microscale decals. It's a lot easier to paint and decal HO scale models vs. N scale models  :D
Cheers,
Rich S.

Offline Rich_S

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Re: Introducing the Long Valley Industrial Railroad
« Reply #66 on: July 11, 2019, 11:39:58 PM »
I've added another Penn Central GP38-2 to my roster. This locomotive started out as an undecorated Kato model that I purchased second hand on ebay. I painted the locomotive into the Penn Central paint scheme using Scalecoat II paint and decals from Micro-Scale.



Cheers,
Rich S.

Offline dats475

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Re: Introducing the Long Valley Industrial Railroad
« Reply #67 on: July 12, 2019, 08:06:18 PM »
Amazing paint work, Rich!
How can you paint so thin and clean?
Are you using an airbrush for this?
Also, how are you stripping the original paint?
I tried to repaint a couple of stuff but It always came out thick paint job that looks like an orange fruits skin.

Dats
Best regards with my annoying moving signature.
  :drool: Dats  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxMwG2GNX3Va9AFLRaNH5xw

Offline Rich_S

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Re: Introducing the Long Valley Industrial Railroad
« Reply #68 on: July 12, 2019, 09:25:52 PM »
Amazing paint work, Rich!
How can you paint so thin and clean?
Are you using an airbrush for this?
Also, how are you stripping the original paint?
I tried to repaint a couple of stuff but It always came out thick paint job that looks like an orange fruits skin.

Dats

Hi Dats,  Yes I have an Badger Air Brush. I've also used Scalecoat II and Testors rattle can spray paints with very good results. The trick is keep the air brush or rattle can moving across the model and keep the air brush or rattle can back about 6 inches. It takes some practice, you want light coats of paint. If a second coat is required, wait at least 15 minutes before applying another coat.

If you are painting a model with two different colors, always spray the lighter color first, wait 24 hours for that paint to dry. Then mask the model and spray another coat of the light color paint over the masking tape to seal it and allow the model to dry for at least 2 hours, before spraying the darker color. If you're going to paint a model white, spray the model with a light gray primer coat of paint first and let it dry for 24 hours.

I DO NOT brush paint models, you cover up the details.  If you're getting orange peel, it maybe too humid. Too much water vapor in the air can effect your paint.

For stripping paint off the old models, I use Scalecoat II "Wash Away" paint remover. Let the model shell soak in the paint remover for 10 minutes, then use a old toothbrush to remove the loosened paint from the model. Be sure to rinse the model in warm water and let dry thoroughly before painting the model.

SPECIAL NOTICE: Remove the windows, number boards and any headlight lenses before submerging the model into Scalecoat Wash Away, as the paint remover could damage clear plastic parts. 

Cheers,
Rich S.

 

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