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Author Topic: Basic tracklaying for a newbie.  (Read 935 times)

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Offline PostModN66

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Re: Basic tracklaying for a newbie.
« Reply #15 on: October 31, 2017, 08:48:42 AM »
You will probably find it difficult to insert (and remove) track pins from plywood.  If, like me, you envisage track planning as you go, with many revisions, then I have found that Sundeala, laid on top of the plywood, is your friend.  It takes pins very easily (that's what it was made for) and, importantly, the pins come out without fuss.

If you don't fancy this, gluing with 'Copydex', please see Port Perran's post above, is a good option as the track can be removed fairly easily.

Another vote for Sundeala as a topping material (not as a board in its own right).  It has the advantage that you can make small streams and culverts flowing under the track,  and you can easily channel it out for Wire-in-Tube runs.

An alternative fixing method, direct to ply, is to use double-sided carpet tape.  This works for Peco and Kato.

Cheers Jon  :)
“We must conduct research and then accept the results. If they don't stand up to experimentation, Buddha's own words must be rejected.” ― Dalai Lama XIV

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Offline Newportnobby

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Re: Basic tracklaying for a newbie.
« Reply #16 on: October 31, 2017, 09:38:54 AM »
Also thinking of using set-track items for areas like standard curves or some points.

Many folks use set track for curves, especially if they're hidden curves.
I would ask the 'collective' for more opinions on set track points dependent on what locos you are running.

Offline Jerry Howlett

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Re: Basic tracklaying for a newbie.
« Reply #17 on: October 31, 2017, 03:50:53 PM »
Ok here is my 10 penny worth or 0.97 Euros worth at todays exchange rates.  I have just started on the ne layout and having not I was going to say laid anything, but its a family forum for about 8 years I am almost starting afresh.

I am using cork sheeting under where the tracks are or I think they may be (a bit of extra can be hacked away).  I use a PVA for the cork.  My track is PECO code 55, I lay this on the cork using the same PVA glue (from my local supermarket).  Incidentally I used this method for track laying 8 + years ago and when I "ripped up" the old layout just running a flat scraper under the track has seen me recover 99 % of the old code 55 flexi track.  To glue I just run a trail of glue along the length of the sleepers under the actual rail.

I did pin down the points on the original layout but several were damaged (beyond repair) when I tried to extract the pins, so glue will be my choice from now on.  The other things that I am using thanks to @Hailstone are track seta, these are preformed metal sections that fit between the rails and can assist you in forming perfect curves and strangely perfect straights. 
  I think that's all folks...  Jerry
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Offline Karhedron

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Re: Basic tracklaying for a newbie.
« Reply #18 on: October 31, 2017, 04:10:38 PM »
I too lay directly onto 9mm ply base board.
However, I favour Copydex for fixing the track in place and small screws for the off scene fiddle yard.
Copydex fixes track well but is ady to lift and peels off easily without leaving a mess if you need to change yhe layout of the track in the future.

+1 for Copydex and applying straight onto the board. Then add ballast to taste. It is worth noting that Peco track has sleepers that are deeper than the real thing anyway so you will still get an adequate ballast shoulder for most lines. Only with modern mainlines would you need the extra thickness of cork to build up a shoulder.

Here is my layout which was laid straight onto the board with just copydex, no track pins.

Well, that's just not good enough. Some fount of all knowledge you are!  :no:  ;)


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