!!

Not Registered?

Welcome!  Please register to view all of the new posts and forum boards - some of which are hidden to guests.  After registering and gaining 10 posts you will be able to sell and buy items on our N'porium.

If you have any problems registering, then please check your spam filter before emailing us.  Hotmail users seem to find their emails in the Junk folder.


Thanks for reading,
The NGF Staff.

Author Topic: My new locomotive works...  (Read 57786 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Stevie DC

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 2125
  • Country: 00
    • Awards
Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #360 on: April 24, 2018, 11:06:22 PM »
any progress on the County Steve?

Regards :searchingsign:

Alex

Hi Alex,

Yes and no. I've been trying to find enough information to resolve the problems with the chimney and safety valve covers. I think I've got enough to continue now but still have to come up with a workable solution for the vertical cab handrails - I can leave them for the builder to fit (fiddly) or I can make them over scale and put them on the CAD as part of the print. Thoughts on this please?

Offline Hailstone

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • N Gauge Society Number: 17138
  • Posts: 1163
  • Country: gb
  • Gender: Male
    • Awards
Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #361 on: April 24, 2018, 11:23:04 PM »
I think that I would rather add the cab handrails in brass Steve, I don't believe that they would be strong enough if printed to a reasonable size. I had to do this on one of the Trojans when I broke the back of the cab off due to holding it too tight when sanding.

Regards,

Alex
« Last Edit: April 24, 2018, 11:25:04 PM by Hailstone »

Offline Stevie DC

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 2125
  • Country: 00
    • Awards
Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #362 on: April 25, 2018, 12:55:21 PM »
A morning playing around with the County. I've altered the shape of the safety valve cover and top feeds slightly to better match the photographs I have. I've also lowered the chimney but I'm still not satisfied with the shape of it. The basic outline of the steam pipes have also been added now along with a few other details.



« Last Edit: April 25, 2018, 12:57:10 PM by Atso »

Offline Hailstone

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • N Gauge Society Number: 17138
  • Posts: 1163
  • Country: gb
  • Gender: Male
    • Awards
Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #363 on: April 25, 2018, 04:23:20 PM »
have you been unable to inspect the real chimney at Didcot? I may be able to help as I still know quite a few people there

Regards,

Alex

Offline bridgiesimon

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • N Gauge Society Number: 12318
  • Posts: 866
  • Country: england
  • Gender: Male
    • Awards
Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #364 on: April 25, 2018, 06:02:32 PM »
Handrails wise, what about leaving dimples or hols in the correct positions for the handrail knobs etc. Would save the risk of fragile printed ones and make it easier for the builder to fit them. There are a couple of versions of knobs available. I used to get them from the NGS shop. No idea now, possibly N Brass?

Best wishes
Simon

Offline Hailstone

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • N Gauge Society Number: 17138
  • Posts: 1163
  • Country: gb
  • Gender: Male
    • Awards
Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #365 on: April 25, 2018, 11:15:31 PM »
Handrails wise, what about leaving dimples or hols in the correct positions for the handrail knobs etc. Would save the risk of fragile printed ones and make it easier for the builder to fit them. There are a couple of versions of knobs available. I used to get them from the NGS shop. No idea now, possibly N Brass?

Best wishes
Simon

BH enterprises and N brass locos supply handrail knobs and brass handrail

Regards,

Alex

Offline Stevie DC

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 2125
  • Country: 00
    • Awards
Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #366 on: April 26, 2018, 11:07:08 AM »
have you been unable to inspect the real chimney at Didcot? I may be able to help as I still know quite a few people there

Not yet but that's more of a case of not having had the time to get over there. If I can't resolve this adequate from the drawings and photographs then I'll have to arrange a visit. However, I've got a few things going on that need to be finished before I can justify a day trip to measure up.

Handrails wise, what about leaving dimples or hols in the correct positions for the handrail knobs etc. Would save the risk of fragile printed ones and make it easier for the builder to fit them. There are a couple of versions of knobs available. I used to get them from the NGS shop. No idea now, possibly N Brass?

Thanks Simon,

I always leave holes for handrail knobs. The issue is the vertical handrails at the back of the cab. These don't have any handrail knobs and join the cab at the bottom of the cab and again at the roofline with the handrail intersecting a freestanding bit of beading at the window line. Dapol's solution was to mould this integrally with the cab while Farish chose to use wire. The issue with using wire is the bit of beading, I'm not sure I can make it strong enough to (a.) print and (b.) withstand the fitting of the wire. By making the handrail slightly overscale, I can print it as part of the cab but it'll always be a weak spot - it'll also help by not having to form two bits of wire with two precise beads in it to meet the cab side and roof.

Offline Stevie DC

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 2125
  • Country: 00
    • Awards
Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #367 on: April 26, 2018, 05:06:52 PM »
More progress on the L1 today. Trying to work out where there should be rivets from photographs has proven to be tough.





I've still got the sandbox covers, lubricators and other such sundry items to do...

For a class that was supposed to be one of Thompson's 'standards' there are two different roofs, two styles of running plate, and three different boiler arrangements to have to design to cover the production versions (but not the prototype which is slightly different again!)...  :confusedsign: :confusedsign: :confusedsign:

Offline Stevie DC

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 2125
  • Country: 00
    • Awards
Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #368 on: April 26, 2018, 10:45:52 PM »
A reasonably quick re motoring job using one of the 7mm coreless motors that were available on eBay a year or so back. Wheels are from a Farish B1 and need a little tweaking to get them quartered properly. The gear wheel was 'borrowed' from an old Farish wheel set (possibly off an A3). The Dapol B1 boiler is attached to make use of its tungsten weight.



All a bit Heath Robinson at the moment.
« Last Edit: April 26, 2018, 10:48:13 PM by Atso »

Offline Stevie DC

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 2125
  • Country: 00
    • Awards
Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #369 on: April 27, 2018, 11:50:03 PM »
The L1 is just about done cosmetically (this variant at least...).


Offline Jim Martin

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • N Gauge Society Number: 18071
  • Posts: 83
  • Country: 00
    • Awards
Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #370 on: April 30, 2018, 09:53:25 PM »
None of this is really my period, but you've done some lovely work. As a matter of interest, did your Sir Sam Fay ever come to anything?

Jim
Believe me. These things always have a logical explanation usually

Offline Stevie DC

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 2125
  • Country: 00
    • Awards
Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #371 on: May 01, 2018, 09:20:45 AM »
None of this is really my period, but you've done some lovely work. As a matter of interest, did your Sir Sam Fay ever come to anything?

Hi Jim,

Thank you for your kind words. The L1 is out of period for me too but, despite not being a fan of Edward Thompson's work, I've found that it has grown on me as I've progressed with designing it.

Sir Sam has been put on the back burner but I do hope to finish it this year. The reasons for the delay are:

- The other party who wanted one change scales.
- I've had other projects/commissions come in that had to take priority.
- Somebody dropped the proof of concept model onto a hard floor. The body was a complete write-off and the custom modified chassis is back with its creator in Holland undergoing repairs - hopefully I'll get that back in September when they're next in the UK.

As I said, I do aim to finish it this year. The club layout I've become involved with may do a days backdating at an exhibition next year and Sir Sam would be completely appropriate for this.

Offline Stevie DC

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 2125
  • Country: 00
    • Awards
Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #372 on: May 07, 2018, 04:13:08 PM »
Test build of the MK2 V1 body is underway and is on the 3D Printing part of the forum. However, as this is now on my workbench, I thought I'd post a picture here as well.



I've already got a couple of things to modify before the production print becomes available.

Offline Stevie DC

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 2125
  • Country: 00
    • Awards
Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #373 on: May 10, 2018, 10:41:58 AM »
The V1 has been shown across both this and my 3D printing thread. However, as all the remaining work on the body involves painting, I think it is best that I cover that in this thread.

So where am I with the body? I painted the bufferbeams and body a couple of days ago using Tamiya acrylic paints. I like to paint the bufferbeams first and then mask up and the spray the other colour(s). I find this easier than having to paint another light base coat over black and then having to brush paint the bufferbeams later. I left this for roughly 24 hours (me being impatient, more like 18!) and then sprayed the model with gloss enamel varnish. I do this as I find lining with enamel paints easier and the enamel varnish coat provides a more durable surface for the pen as well as giving a barrier layer when I'm using white spirit (to just moisten a brush)  to clean up my lining mistake! Despite the quick turnaround from acrylic to enamel paints, I have had no adverse reactions.

This morning I broke out my bow pen (first time this year) and had a go at lining the bufferbeams.





Considering I'm out of practice, I'm quite happy with these and didn't have much cleaning up to do (but I did make a couple of mistakes!).



In case anyone is interested, above is my usual ruling pen. It was made by a company called Kern who unfortunately ceased trading quite a few years ago. However, these turn up quite frequently on ebay (search 'ruling pens') which is where this one came from. The paint splodge is from where I cleaned the pen. I mixed 14 drops of gloss black into a new tinlet of Humbrol gloss white to tone things down a little; could you tell that the lining wasn't white before I mentioned this? I was given this tip by a professional painted as it helps to give the 'scale look' to a model - having seen the quality of his work, who I am to argue!  :D

Offline Newportnobby

  • Global Moderator
  • Trade Count: (+95)
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • N Gauge Society Number: 21962
  • Posts: 32806
  • Country: england
  • Gender: Male
    • Awards
Re: My new locomotive works...
« Reply #374 on: May 10, 2018, 11:03:03 AM »
I know I have shaky hands but, that apart, I am still gobsmacked by the skill of you and several other forum members who have the ability to produce work to such a high standard.
I salute you all. :admiration:

 

Please Support Us!
December Goal: £60.00
Due Date: Dec 31
Total Receipts: £15.00
Below Goal: £45.00
Site Currency: GBP
25% 
December Donations


Advertise Here