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Author Topic: "Steps" on outside of code 55 closure rails causing shorts - can I file them?  (Read 2861 times)

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Offline AndrewR

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Brand new ....

Online PaulCheffus

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Hi

I've just been and measured the gap on mine where the step is and the gap is 1.5mm

Cheers

Paul

Offline DELETED

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Started looking at this then thought it more an issue with back-to-back than anything else.  I started drawing over your pic. to get some idea of how much things might be out, but I just think it's more  about wheelsets and B-2-B's.  THAT SAID -I can't see any harm in you filing away so long as you don't touch running surfaces or the strength of the metal so it doesn't bend, but I think it's the long way round.


Offline AndrewR

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I only just ordered some really good 0.01/0.03mm accuracy calipers to check my B-B's.
If anyone knows what I SHOULD measure (although it looks from postings like it is a "variable"), let me know!

Anyway, the gaps between the closure rail and the main rail looked to me to be about 1.5mm too, but that's with my plastic ruler.
Honestly, the amount I tweaked them by "bending" was tiny, and it seems to have worked. perhaps mine were 1.45mm and now they are 1.5mm. Hard to tell.

Also, something else which I think will help is that I have put the old "tail-light" bulb in series with this track now, partly because I am doing DCC conversions of old locos and it might save me some destruction (more than I already caused  :worried: ). I can limit current to about 0.5A (4W filament) or about 2.75A (21W and 4W filaments together), and a direct short across the rails now does NOT cause the Zephyr to trip. So, if the short is very transient, as when the loco passes that little constricted spot and if there is not quite enough clearance, I think I might get away with it anyway. When I was running these same locos on DC I never even noticed it. If the short passes quick enough, the decoders in the locos seem to remember their inertia settings and just carry on where they left off when the short is removed, and I am thinking that even before I "bent" those rails, the short was very brief indeed if the loco was moving at any reasonable speed.

So, with the slight rail bend and the current-limiter bulb, I think I'm good.

I'll still check the B2Bs though. Although, my question would be, what could you reasonably DO about the B2B in either an old Minitrix/Farish or a brand new Farish engine? As far as I can see, adjusting the drive wheels on the axles would be a job that would probably destroy the wheelset. The metal wheels are connected to the axles either directly or via plastic insulators. Are you meant to be able to pop them off and adjust? I know I adjusted the pony wheel on my 2-6-2 but that was just a tweak with tweezers. The drivers don't move so easily, or do they?

 

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