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Author Topic: Dr Al's workbench - Quickie!  (Read 61563 times)

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Offline Dr Al

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Re: Dr Al's workbench - B12/3
« Reply #450 on: March 11, 2019, 12:12:05 AM »
Slower progress on decalling than I'd like due to unexpectedly running out of some of the necessary corners for the mixed traffic lining, but it is moving on.



Cheers,
Alan
Quote from: Roy L S
If Dr Al is online he may be able to provide a more comprehensive answer.

“We have also arranged things so that almost no one understands science and technology. This is a prescription for disaster. We might get away with it for a while, but sooner or later this combustible mixture of ignorance and power is going to blow up in our faces.” – Dr. Carl Sagan

Offline Dr Al

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Re: Dr Al's workbench - B12/3
« Reply #451 on: March 12, 2019, 12:07:19 AM »
More decal progress - slow, but these curves and splashers are some of the most awkward things to do.



Cheers,
Alan
Quote from: Roy L S
If Dr Al is online he may be able to provide a more comprehensive answer.

“We have also arranged things so that almost no one understands science and technology. This is a prescription for disaster. We might get away with it for a while, but sooner or later this combustible mixture of ignorance and power is going to blow up in our faces.” – Dr. Carl Sagan

Offline paulprice

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Re: Dr Al's workbench - B12/3
« Reply #452 on: March 12, 2019, 01:41:33 PM »
More decal progress - slow, but these curves and splashers are some of the most awkward things to do.



Cheers,
Alan
Its looking brilliant

Offline Dr Al

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Re: Dr Al's workbench - B12/3
« Reply #453 on: March 12, 2019, 10:34:57 PM »
Something like over 100 decal segments later, the B12/3 is now virtually done, and conforming to my prototype photo (from "30A Steam on Stratford Shed", by Brian Morrison). Now just a few tiny adjustments left, but glad this frankly mammoth decalling job is now completed! Fortunately I managed to get away without having to buy more sheets, instead making up from various splasher curve sections.





And just to prove that I did do both sides....:



Next is clean and minor finishes, then a good coat of gloss to properly seal them before final finish.

Cheers,
Alan
Quote from: Roy L S
If Dr Al is online he may be able to provide a more comprehensive answer.

“We have also arranged things so that almost no one understands science and technology. This is a prescription for disaster. We might get away with it for a while, but sooner or later this combustible mixture of ignorance and power is going to blow up in our faces.” – Dr. Carl Sagan

Offline paulprice

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Re: Dr Al's workbench - B12/3
« Reply #454 on: March 13, 2019, 08:14:50 PM »
Truly brilliant work, I'm in awe

Offline Train Waiting

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Re: Dr Al's workbench - B12/3
« Reply #455 on: March 13, 2019, 09:05:22 PM »
Truly brilliant work, I'm in awe

Seconded.  Absolutely first rate.

John
'Why does the Disney Castle work so well?  Because it borrows from reality without ever slipping into it.'

(Acknowledgement: John Goodall Esq, Architectural Editor, 'Country Life'.)

The Table-Top Railway is an attempt to create, in British 'N' gauge,  a 'semi-scenic' railway in the old-fashioned style, reminiscent of the layouts of the 1920s to the 1950s.

Offline Dr Al

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Re: Dr Al's workbench - B12/3
« Reply #456 on: March 17, 2019, 11:41:45 PM »
Have now been over the B12 and finished off a few areas that weren't quite done - the bottoms of all the steps needed horizontal lining, and full lining was needed on the front tender steps.

I also added the RA number.

A clean of dust and a sealer varnish layer is the next step.





One area that may warrant further attention is the loco-tender gap - it's very large (unnecessarily so) on this, but would need fabrication of a new, fully insulated drawbar, and I'm not sure what I could use that would be strong enough. Needs some thought.

Cheers,
Alan
Quote from: Roy L S
If Dr Al is online he may be able to provide a more comprehensive answer.

“We have also arranged things so that almost no one understands science and technology. This is a prescription for disaster. We might get away with it for a while, but sooner or later this combustible mixture of ignorance and power is going to blow up in our faces.” – Dr. Carl Sagan

Offline longbow

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Re: Dr Al's workbench - B12/3
« Reply #457 on: March 18, 2019, 12:48:15 AM »
You could probably 3D print a shorter drawbar. PLA should be strong enough. Now you mention it I might have a crack at printing one for my UM T9.

Offline Chris in Prague

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Re: Dr Al's workbench - B12/3
« Reply #458 on: March 18, 2019, 08:37:51 AM »
Superb work, Alan. Very impressive.

Offline Chris in Prague

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Re: Dr Al's workbench - B12/3
« Reply #459 on: March 18, 2019, 08:40:51 AM »
You could probably 3D print a shorter drawbar. PLA should be strong enough. Now you mention it I might have a crack at printing one for my UM T9.

If you do succeed in printing a drawbar for your Union Mills T9 that you're happy with, I'd like to buy two for my UM T9's to reduce the too large gap between loco. and tender, please.

Offline thebrighton

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Re: Dr Al's workbench - B12/3
« Reply #460 on: March 18, 2019, 10:03:17 AM »
I have shortened drawbars buy cutting a section out of the middle, drilled a 0.3mm hole through the centre of the 2 pieces and then slid them over a snuggly fitting broken drill bit (I have many broken 0.3mm ones!) whilst adding a dot of Bostik glue for hard plastics. Not had an issue of them coming apart yet but never pick up the model by just the loco or tender as some do but I guess you wouldn't do that either ;)

Offline longbow

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Re: Dr Al's workbench - B12/3
« Reply #461 on: March 18, 2019, 11:02:01 AM »
My T9 is in pieces at present so please advise by how much I can shorten the 3D designed drawbar from its present length of 14.5mm whilst still allowing enough gap to negotiate say an R2 curve. 

« Last Edit: March 18, 2019, 11:04:06 AM by longbow »

Offline Dr Al

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Re: Dr Al's workbench - B12/3
« Reply #462 on: March 18, 2019, 05:45:07 PM »
I have shortened drawbars buy cutting a section out of the middle, drilled a 0.3mm hole through the centre of the 2 pieces and then slid them over a snuggly fitting broken drill bit (I have many broken 0.3mm ones!) whilst adding a dot of Bostik glue for hard plastics. Not had an issue of them coming apart yet but never pick up the model by just the loco or tender as some do but I guess you wouldn't do that either ;)

I suspect I wouldn't, but that's not the times you want covered for - it's that one time in 100 where for whatever reason it does accidentally get picked up loco or tender only, or someone else does so.

As such I'd probably prefer a single piece item. If metal could be used it'd be simple, but given both tender and loco are 'live' that's not an option.

Cheers,
Alan
Quote from: Roy L S
If Dr Al is online he may be able to provide a more comprehensive answer.

“We have also arranged things so that almost no one understands science and technology. This is a prescription for disaster. We might get away with it for a while, but sooner or later this combustible mixture of ignorance and power is going to blow up in our faces.” – Dr. Carl Sagan

Offline thebrighton

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Re: Dr Al's workbench - B12/3
« Reply #463 on: March 18, 2019, 07:08:11 PM »
I wonder if there is a suitable Evergreen plastic square tube or similar so you could cut a section of the drawbar out and rejoin it within a length of the tube.

Offline R Marshall

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Re: Dr Al's workbench - B12/3
« Reply #464 on: March 18, 2019, 10:59:52 PM »
Have now been over the B12 and finished off a few areas that weren't quite done - the bottoms of all the steps needed horizontal lining, and full lining was needed on the front tender steps.

I also added the RA number.

A clean of dust and a sealer varnish layer is the next step.





One area that may warrant further attention is the loco-tender gap - it's very large (unnecessarily so) on this, but would need fabrication of a new, fully insulated drawbar, and I'm not sure what I could use that would be strong enough. Needs some thought.

Cheers,
Alan

Alan,

Your B12 looks lovely.

I made shorter drawbars for my D20 and J26s from thick black plastic strip drilled through with a pin vice and shaped/finished with a Swiss file. By trial and error I discovered what would allow them to go round the various curves.

So far they're holding up.

Regards,

Roy

 

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