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Author Topic: Spares and repair discoveries  (Read 253902 times)

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Offline Ozymandias

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Re: Spares and repair discoveries
« Reply #825 on: April 12, 2016, 10:21:10 AM »
You're absolutely spot on about the tender, Mike - the Lima one is too short and too tall. I'm thinking I might have to scratch-make the tender top. Plasticard and hope... ;)

The S15 is back together and looking much healthier - I still need to file down the cab roof sides so it curves into the cab sides (again, good spot Mike!)

Here she is with a couple of 47s I'm working on for a friend, a Trix 27 that's getting a green with yellow ends respray and a Lima bo-bo getting the same treatment:

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"Look on my works, Ye Mighty, and despair!"

Online Dorsetmike

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Re: Spares and repair discoveries
« Reply #826 on: April 12, 2016, 10:56:28 AM »
If you're going for as close to 847 as possible you need to level the footplate over the cylinders, so the smoke deflectors are going to have to come off and will also need either replacing with brass or plasticard sheet  or a bit of sneaky work with lo melt solder to fill the gap where the footplate has been lowered, complete replacement will involve getting that lip round the top and front edge if you're that fussy :)
Cheers MIKE
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How many roads must a man walk down ... ... ... ... ... before he knows he's lost!

Offline Ozymandias

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Re: Spares and repair discoveries
« Reply #827 on: April 12, 2016, 11:07:13 AM »
If you're going for as close to 847 as possible you need to level the footplate over the cylinders, so the smoke deflectors are going to have to come off and will also need either replacing with brass or plasticard sheet  or a bit of sneaky work with lo melt solder to fill the gap where the footplate has been lowered, complete replacement will involve getting that lip round the top and front edge if you're that fussy :)

Having put them back on, suddenly I'm feeling less fussy... ;) I will do the cab roof and make the tender, though.
"Look on my works, Ye Mighty, and despair!"

Offline N-Gauge-US

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Re: Spares and repair discoveries
« Reply #828 on: April 12, 2016, 03:33:14 PM »
Thanks Mike!

I'm aiming for as close to the real 847 Bluebell loco as I can get - I've already sanded off the cab roof!

I'm not quite sure what I'm going to do about the tender, which is nothing like the kit one in real life - I might see if I can bash a Lima 4F one, which has flat sides and the right profile, albeit too short.

Somehow I had managed to miss that one of your long term goals is to model all of the locos on the Bluebell Railway. The Bluebell has been a favorite of mine since I discovered at about 7 or 8 that it was a real place and modeling it was what I initially wanted to do in N Gauge. The S15/847 project is looking really good!

I have an itch to try making a Wainright P Class at some point, so if you ever start down that route, make sure to let me know! Until then, I'll be following along here with great interest and taking notes on what you and Mike and the other pro builders are discussing :)

All the best and thanks for the updates!
Philip
Check out Avondale - My heritage railway themed layout :)

http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=29371.0

Offline Ozymandias

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Re: Spares and repair discoveries
« Reply #829 on: April 12, 2016, 04:07:02 PM »
Thanks Mike!

I'm aiming for as close to the real 847 Bluebell loco as I can get - I've already sanded off the cab roof!

I'm not quite sure what I'm going to do about the tender, which is nothing like the kit one in real life - I might see if I can bash a Lima 4F one, which has flat sides and the right profile, albeit too short.

Somehow I had managed to miss that one of your long term goals is to model all of the locos on the Bluebell Railway. The Bluebell has been a favorite of mine since I discovered at about 7 or 8 that it was a real place and modeling it was what I initially wanted to do in N Gauge. The S15/847 project is looking really good!

I have an itch to try making a Wainright P Class at some point, so if you ever start down that route, make sure to let me know! Until then, I'll be following along here with great interest and taking notes on what you and Mike and the other pro builders are discussing :)

All the best and thanks for the updates!
Philip

Thanks Philip - but me, a "pro builder"?! I'm blushing, you are too kind. I tend to think of myself more as a hopelessly ambitious amateur... ;)

I don't quite know how I'm going to do the P class (and there are two of them on the BBR from memory) - as far as I know there are no kits of them, so it might have to be a scratch build job. I wish I knew how to work in brass - some of the guys who scratch-build brass bodies on here are amazing skillful.
"Look on my works, Ye Mighty, and despair!"

Offline N-Gauge-US

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Re: Spares and repair discoveries
« Reply #830 on: April 12, 2016, 07:08:15 PM »
Thanks Mike!

I'm aiming for as close to the real 847 Bluebell loco as I can get - I've already sanded off the cab roof!

I'm not quite sure what I'm going to do about the tender, which is nothing like the kit one in real life - I might see if I can bash a Lima 4F one, which has flat sides and the right profile, albeit too short.

Somehow I had managed to miss that one of your long term goals is to model all of the locos on the Bluebell Railway. The Bluebell has been a favorite of mine since I discovered at about 7 or 8 that it was a real place and modeling it was what I initially wanted to do in N Gauge. The S15/847 project is looking really good!

I have an itch to try making a Wainright P Class at some point, so if you ever start down that route, make sure to let me know! Until then, I'll be following along here with great interest and taking notes on what you and Mike and the other pro builders are discussing :)

All the best and thanks for the updates!
Philip

Thanks Philip - but me, a "pro builder"?! I'm blushing, you are too kind. I tend to think of myself more as a hopelessly ambitious amateur... ;)

I don't quite know how I'm going to do the P class (and there are two of them on the BBR from memory) - as far as I know there are no kits of them, so it might have to be a scratch build job. I wish I knew how to work in brass - some of the guys who scratch-build brass bodies on here are amazing skillful.

The nearest thing I can think of is, appropriately, a Terrier (the P Class was a terrier rip off that was less successful). The wheels on the terrier were 48" whereas on the P Class they were 45 1/8" and the wheelbase is shorter at 11' instead of 12', but it is fairly close, all things considered, and might make a nice donor chassis for a P Class body, if one can be managed (that cab.... Grrrr....).

As for working in brass, I've recently bought Simon Bolton's book on scratch building and, despite its being geared towards OO, have found it very informative and am now clamoring to try the techniques demonstrated. His thread, which I think I saw a post by you on, has some great examples in n gauge and he is updating it regularly, so it is very much worth keeping an eye on.

Anyway, if I get brave and start work on a P Class, I'll let you know!
Check out Avondale - My heritage railway themed layout :)

http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=29371.0

Online Dorsetmike

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Re: Spares and repair discoveries
« Reply #831 on: April 12, 2016, 08:25:09 PM »
Quote
I wish I knew how to work in brass


Hardest part is probably rolling boilers, so I cheat and use brass tube; two ways to get the bands, mine is to use a lathe to turn some brass off between the smokebox and first band, leave the band proud, turn along to the next band and so on. The alternative is to stick very thin strips of paper, or sellotape round the tube for the bands and a wider bit for the smoke box.

If you are doing a round top firebox cut a "T" slot in the tube and open out the slotted bit, if it's to go over a Farish chassis with motor you may need to cut more ahead of the firebox slot, much easier to use a UM drive. for a Belpaire box use brass sheet and filler

For a cab I now use a similar method to that used by Etched Pixels for coaches, for those he makes floor, sides and ends as one piece, folding sides and ends up from the floor, for a cab the "base" is the backplate, sides and floor fold up from that roof has to be a separate item if it overlaps the side sheets or if curved from the side like the Maunsell S15 roof then the roof could be extended from one side.

Otherwise you'll have fun soldering sides, floor and roof to backplate unless you have a number of different melting point solders, start with the highest and work your way down, reducing iron temp accordingly. having it fold up all you need is a light fillet along each fold and a bit more for  joins such as sides to floor or roof

Any rivet detail try a pounce wheel

http://mfpilot.com/model-supplies/tools/hobby-rivet-line-maker-trumpeter-detailing-tool.html

There is a similar one on the UK market, if I can find mine I'll post details.
Cheers MIKE
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Offline N-Gauge-US

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Re: Spares and repair discoveries
« Reply #832 on: April 12, 2016, 09:39:16 PM »
Quote
I wish I knew how to work in brass


Hardest part is probably rolling boilers, so I cheat and use brass tube; two ways to get the bands, mine is to use a lathe to turn some brass off between the smokebox and first band, leave the band proud, turn along to the next band and so on. The alternative is to stick very thin strips of paper, or sellotape round the tube for the bands and a wider bit for the smoke box.

If you are doing a round top firebox cut a "T" slot in the tube and open out the slotted bit, if it's to go over a Farish chassis with motor you may need to cut more ahead of the firebox slot, much easier to use a UM drive. for a Belpaire box use brass sheet and filler

For a cab I now use a similar method to that used by Etched Pixels for coaches, for those he makes floor, sides and ends as one piece, folding sides and ends up from the floor, for a cab the "base" is the backplate, sides and floor fold up from that roof has to be a separate item if it overlaps the side sheets or if curved from the side like the Maunsell S15 roof then the roof could be extended from one side.

Otherwise you'll have fun soldering sides, floor and roof to backplate unless you have a number of different melting point solders, start with the highest and work your way down, reducing iron temp accordingly. having it fold up all you need is a light fillet along each fold and a bit more for  joins such as sides to floor or roof

Any rivet detail try a pounce wheel

http://mfpilot.com/model-supplies/tools/hobby-rivet-line-maker-trumpeter-detailing-tool.html

There is a similar one on the UK market, if I can find mine I'll post details.


Yet again, Mike, you are a source of tremendous wisdom and a fount of useful knowledge! As a friend of mine used to say, 'You're a gentleman and a scholar.' I had not thought of folding up the cab body, but that is brilliant! I will also investigate the brass tube situation, as I admit I am now a little frightened about rolling my own boilers.

Many thanks for another extremely useful and informative post. I shall have to start printing these out and putting them in a folder labeled 'Useful tips from Dorsetmike' :) (Actually, I may start doing that with all useful forum posts and make a whole binder of them....)

(Sorry to hijack, Ozymandias, I just thought Mike's reply well worth a response).

-Philip
Check out Avondale - My heritage railway themed layout :)

http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=29371.0

Offline Ozymandias

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Re: Spares and repair discoveries
« Reply #833 on: April 12, 2016, 11:04:05 PM »
Quote
I wish I knew how to work in brass


Hardest part is probably rolling boilers, so I cheat and use brass tube; two ways to get the bands, mine is to use a lathe to turn some brass off between the smokebox and first band, leave the band proud, turn along to the next band and so on. The alternative is to stick very thin strips of paper, or sellotape round the tube for the bands and a wider bit for the smoke box.

If you are doing a round top firebox cut a "T" slot in the tube and open out the slotted bit, if it's to go over a Farish chassis with motor you may need to cut more ahead of the firebox slot, much easier to use a UM drive. for a Belpaire box use brass sheet and filler

For a cab I now use a similar method to that used by Etched Pixels for coaches, for those he makes floor, sides and ends as one piece, folding sides and ends up from the floor, for a cab the "base" is the backplate, sides and floor fold up from that roof has to be a separate item if it overlaps the side sheets or if curved from the side like the Maunsell S15 roof then the roof could be extended from one side.

Otherwise you'll have fun soldering sides, floor and roof to backplate unless you have a number of different melting point solders, start with the highest and work your way down, reducing iron temp accordingly. having it fold up all you need is a light fillet along each fold and a bit more for  joins such as sides to floor or roof

Any rivet detail try a pounce wheel

http://mfpilot.com/model-supplies/tools/hobby-rivet-line-maker-trumpeter-detailing-tool.html

There is a similar one on the UK market, if I can find mine I'll post details.


Yet again, Mike, you are a source of tremendous wisdom and a fount of useful knowledge! As a friend of mine used to say, 'You're a gentleman and a scholar.' I had not thought of folding up the cab body, but that is brilliant! I will also investigate the brass tube situation, as I admit I am now a little frightened about rolling my own boilers.

Many thanks for another extremely useful and informative post. I shall have to start printing these out and putting them in a folder labeled 'Useful tips from Dorsetmike' :) (Actually, I may start doing that with all useful forum posts and make a whole binder of them....)

(Sorry to hijack, Ozymandias, I just thought Mike's reply well worth a response).

-Philip


Hijack away, Philip - this is interesting stuff! :)
"Look on my works, Ye Mighty, and despair!"

Offline MARK1985

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Re: Spares and repair discoveries
« Reply #834 on: April 13, 2016, 01:59:10 PM »
just spent about 3 hours looking through this whole thread  :D got to say some cracking work on all the projects Ozy , very much inspired me to start looking at the spare and repair items on ebay and start doing some work on couple items I received in a job lot that I wasn't sure how to go about restoring to their former glories , first up will be a j69 holden tank! first load of milliput on order  ;)

Offline Ozymandias

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Re: Spares and repair discoveries
« Reply #835 on: April 13, 2016, 02:30:42 PM »
A couple more on the go - a Minitrix Ivatt 2-6-2 and dock tank sporting new crimson liveries. The dock tank is going to look very cute when it's finished!:

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One of the 47s unmasked to reveal the yellow noses underneath. Needs a bit of tidying up...:

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"Look on my works, Ye Mighty, and despair!"

Offline Ozymandias

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Re: Spares and repair discoveries
« Reply #836 on: April 25, 2016, 04:19:15 PM »
Sigh. So many locos, so little time...

"Look on my works, Ye Mighty, and despair!"

Offline MrDobilina

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Re: Spares and repair discoveries
« Reply #837 on: April 25, 2016, 04:21:17 PM »
Sigh. So many locos, so little time...




Just out of curiosity, why do you have so many on the go?

Offline Milton Rail

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Re: Spares and repair discoveries
« Reply #838 on: April 25, 2016, 04:40:10 PM »
Good luck, I am sure you have a system, but I am impressed you keep track of what goes with what when you marry them all back together again :) 

Offline Ozymandias

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Re: Spares and repair discoveries
« Reply #839 on: April 25, 2016, 04:43:19 PM »
Sigh. So many locos, so little time...




Just out of curiosity, why do you have so many on the go?


Because I'm a twit!! ;)

I restore them as a hobby - I buy a lot spares/repairs, mend/respray them and sell them on (expect for the ones I completely fall in love with, which I keep).

Trouble is my capacity to amass them far outstrips my speed of fixing them. But you can never have too many locos/projects on the go, I think... :)
"Look on my works, Ye Mighty, and despair!"

 

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