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Author Topic: Dapol - Class 121  (Read 36266 times)

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Offline Cooper

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Re: Dapol - Class 121
« Reply #135 on: December 05, 2015, 03:48:02 PM »

I've no idea what would have happened on the prototype - I'm no expert on such matters.
[/quote]

When I trained on blue square DMUs I did so on Bubble Cars on the Bletchley-Bedford branch. We changed the tail and marker headlights at each end of course. However we would change the destination indicator both ends at each end of the route and leave them lit. That is, when we could be bothered, and when we hadn't put St Ives or Penzance on the front for a laugh. (Everyone over there seemed to know where they were going anyway!)

Offline BobB

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Re: Dapol - Class 121
« Reply #136 on: May 27, 2016, 07:05:54 AM »
I have lost the right hand exhaust pipe from the front of my blue/grey 121. It's really annoying that I can not find it on the floor - I've found much smaller bits with out to much trouble in the past. Anybody got a spare or know where I can get one ?

Bob

Offline Only Me

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Re: Dapol - Class 121
« Reply #137 on: May 27, 2016, 07:28:44 AM »
Dcc supplies list them
In the spares section on their website



Offline BobB

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Re: Dapol - Class 121
« Reply #138 on: May 28, 2016, 06:21:58 AM »
Thanks Only Me

Offline jamespetts

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Re: Dapol - Class 121
« Reply #139 on: February 14, 2020, 03:56:51 PM »
Can I ask whether anyone has so far attempted to remove the high intensity headlight on the Network SouthEast version of these?

Dapol class 121 by James Petts, on Flickr

Dapol class 121 with custom destination and other decals added by James Petts, on Flickr

The current version seems correct for the mid/late 1990s and preservation era:

121 55031 55027 Bletchley by British Rail 1980s and 1990s, on Flickr

1993-03-31 55031 (1450 Bedford Midland)  Bletchley by John Carter, on Flickr

BR Class 121 at Reading by James Petts, on Flickr

but is not correct for the late 1980s/very early 1990s:

BR-55024-L124-Paddington-210789ia by Michael Wadman, on Flickr

Class 121 DMU L124 arriving at Ealing Broadway on a Greenford service by Treflyn Lloyd-Roberts, on Flickr

BR-55024-L124-Paddington-210789iia by Michael Wadman, on Flickr

What I am planning to do is to cut away the surround with a modelling knife, file down the immediate area, fill the hole with Milliput, sand down the filler, then overpaint with 2-3 coats of Railmatch enamel sectorisation era warning yellow from an aerosol can.

If nobody has tried this, then I will pioneer this with a currently unmodified, unpowered NSE 121 (rather than the renumbered one shown in the pictures above), and then, if this works, deploy this on the renumbered unit and then my powered 121. If anyone has tried this, then any feedback from the process would be worthwhile.

Incidentally, any thoughts about how to disable the LED itself? I worry that it might shine through the Milliput. Is there a wire somewhere accessible that I might cut?

Offline Only Me

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Re: Dapol - Class 121
« Reply #140 on: February 14, 2020, 09:19:43 PM »
Itís one led  shines through a light guide.. you could just take the light guide out cut off the end and put some black tape over it



Online njee20

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Re: Dapol - Class 121
« Reply #141 on: February 14, 2020, 09:47:10 PM »
The warning panel yellow almost certainly won't match, so expect to do the whole panel or do some blending. Can't see a problem otherwise.

Offline jamespetts

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Re: Dapol - Class 121
« Reply #142 on: February 16, 2020, 11:24:47 PM »
I have now attempted this. This is what I have managed so far (in chronological order):

Dapol class 121 by James Petts, on Flickr
The lamp cut away with a knife

Dapol class 121 by James Petts, on Flickr
The residue filed down

Dapol class 121 by James Petts, on Flickr

Dapol class 121 by James Petts, on Flickr
Filled with Milliput

Dapol class 121 by James Petts, on Flickr
The Milliput filed down

Dapol class 121 by James Petts, on Flickr

Dapol class 121 by James Petts, on Flickr
Masked for painting

Dapol class 121 by James Petts, on Flickr

Dapol class 121 by James Petts, on Flickr
With primer

Dapol class 121 by James Petts, on Flickr
With Railmatch yellow

Dapol class 121 by James Petts, on Flickr

Dapol class 121 by James Petts, on Flickr
Final condition

This is not looking quite right. There are two problems (aside from the dislodged exhaust pipe, which is easily fixed):

(1) there is a square of slightly different coloured yellow on the end (and the edges are raised where the masking tape was); and
(2) the filler was not entirely filed flat, so the surface is not as flat as it ought to be.

The second problem is tricky; I am not quite sure how to get a file/wet and dry paper into such a small space reliably; I had difficulty using files, including the soft filing sticks. Would a glass fibre brush work here, or is Milliput too hard to work with this?

As to the first problem, the colour is not only not entirely consistent with the rest of the front, as some here predicted, but it is not entirely consistent with itself, with a sort of murky dark colour in some places, and a colour much closer to the original in others. I wonder whether blending in would work here - perhaps using a glass fibre brush on the raised edges and then spraying the whole cab end after removing the numbers with Brasso (I will be renumbering this in any event) and covering the windows and windscreen wipers with Maskol?

Also, is Railmatch enamel the best for this, or would I be better of with Phoenix Precision?

Any tips would be appreciated.

Offline Only Me

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Re: Dapol - Class 121
« Reply #143 on: February 17, 2020, 06:38:53 AM »
Revel Lufthansa yellow acrylic is a better match than what youíve used I canít comment on enamels as I donít use them



Offline Sven

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Re: Dapol - Class 121
« Reply #144 on: February 17, 2020, 09:42:55 AM »
I know it's a bit too late, but you should not have used (grey) primer. Yellow is a very difficult colour to cover. It will long show the colour below it. You need many, at least 5 leayer, but most likely more layers to hide the colour below it. If I have to prime, I use white primer. Or white paint on a grey primer, before applying yellow. In this case, no primer was needed.

File it down again, get rid of the grey paint and start immediately with yellow. Filing on a tiny space like this can be done by cutting of a long, but narrow of a piece of sandpaper and stick it with a gluestick on a thin coffee stirrer, like the ones from Costa/Starbucks. So the sandpaper is about the size of the coffeer stirrer, but you only need to put a piece on the top of it of course. After one spray of paint, make a close up picture of it and see if it is flat. Otherwise rub again. You probably need three goes of spray/photo check/rub before it is perfect.

Also, check by painting on a piece of white styrene if your yellow colour matches. But even with the exact same colour of yellow, you'll always see the masked square. The edges of the masking tape will form an edge with the paint. You can limit this effect by sanding it with a very fine grade of sandpaper, but you don't get rid of it completely. Though a satin varnish, which is needed to match the varnish of the rest of the model, over the whole front will also help to make it blend in. Better take the windows out.

Hope this helps.

Sven
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Offline jamespetts

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Re: Dapol - Class 121
« Reply #145 on: February 17, 2020, 11:20:40 AM »
Thank you for your replies. The reason that I used the grey primer is that there was some of the black surround showing through the filler after I had finished filing:

Dapol class 121 by James Petts, on Flickr

I was concerned that the yellow paint would not cover this well. I recall some advice some time ago to apply grey or white primer in such a situation, and I was not aware that there was a problem with grey primer in particular.

Given that I will have to file this down again in any event using the techniques recommended above, can anyone recommend a good suitable white primer for this task? The grey primer is the Tamiya primer, which I use for 3d printed items, where it works well.

As to dealing with the edges: this is challenging. I cannot simply mask/remove the windows as I had originally imagined because of the black surrounds, which need to be preserved, as these units really carried the black surrounds. Cutting masking tape that exactly is likely to be a challenge.

I wonder whether, therefore, the best course of action might be as follows:

(1) sand down the areas in question to get a smoother finish using the above technique;
(2) remove the end numbers with Brasso;
(3) apply a white primer over the front square;
(4) apply 2-3 coats of the yellow paint to the front square (which will hopefully get close to the right colour, but which will leave edge lines);
(5) gently sand down the edge lines;
(6) move the mask so as to cover the whole lower area; and
(7) apply 1-2 very light coats of yellow to blend in with the existing colour.

In that case, I am still a little concerned about an edge line at the top of the masked section, but I am not quite sure how best to deal with this. Any advice would be appreciated.

Offline tunneroner61

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Re: Dapol - Class 121
« Reply #146 on: February 17, 2020, 11:27:21 AM »
Try a propelling fibre glass stick for rubbing down.

Norman

Offline Only Me

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Re: Dapol - Class 121
« Reply #147 on: February 17, 2020, 11:32:38 AM »
Halfords white plastic bumper primer is my go to spray for priming



Offline jamespetts

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Re: Dapol - Class 121
« Reply #148 on: February 17, 2020, 11:33:26 AM »
Try a propelling fibre glass stick for rubbing down.

Norman

I have one of those - would this be just for the paint, or would this suffice for the Milliput? I did think of using one of these, but concluded that it would probably not be strong enough to file the Milliput.

I have just ordered some wet & dry paper and coffee stirrers, incidentally.

Offline tunneroner61

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Re: Dapol - Class 121
« Reply #149 on: February 17, 2020, 11:39:18 AM »
It'll work for the milliput if you take your time.

As an aside I sometimes use gel superglue as a filler if there's not too much to fill.

N

 

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