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Author Topic: An approach to Wire-in-Tube point operation  (Read 8435 times)

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Offline PostModN66

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Re: An approach to Wire-in-Tube point operation
« Reply #15 on: February 05, 2014, 09:52:20 AM »
Thanks Trainsdownunder,

That lever frame looks great doesn't it!  Mind you, looks pretty big against N Gauge stock (I know it's not supposed to be scale!), and of course, you still have to sort frog switching.

What I don't understand though is the use of the 90deg bellcranks.  In my experience really not necessary, they add further complexity, are a maintenance issue, need to be concealed etc.  This is especially puzzling as the Mercontrol PTFE and wire looks smaller dia. than I use (the "Slippery Sid" standard) so you would think would go around smaller curves.  If you look on the Horseblock video, I think the radius is about 2" and it works fine.

Cheers  Jon   :)
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Offline trainsdownunder

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Re: An approach to Wire-in-Tube point operation
« Reply #16 on: February 05, 2014, 08:32:12 PM »
I tend to agree about the cranks. The only place I've used cranks before is on servos and whilst the work fine it is something else that can be fiddly to work with,

Offline PostModN66

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Re: An approach to Wire-in-Tube point operation
« Reply #17 on: January 19, 2015, 05:20:15 PM »
To update this thread with some photos from my newest layout....







Cheers Jon  :)
“We must conduct research and then accept the results. If they don't stand up to experimentation, Buddha's own words must be rejected.” ― Dalai Lama XIV

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Offline MalcolmInN

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Re: An approach to Wire-in-Tube point operation
« Reply #18 on: January 19, 2015, 06:56:04 PM »
Great thread Jon, thanks, now it all becomes clear to my little brain cell,
I especially like the good detailed macro last shot. Perfect !


Offline Dorsetmike

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Re: An approach to Wire-in-Tube point operation
« Reply #19 on: January 19, 2015, 09:08:04 PM »
I use the slide type of switch, much easier to drill the hole, even get 2 wires in one switch for crossovers

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and some plastic cranks (sold for model aircraft) to change "push" to "pull" for one of the points of the crossover

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I installed mine after track laying, I use strips cut from cork tiles for  trackbed over 2" thick insulation foam, it's quite easy to make a channel in that to bury the tube and cover with ballast or scenic scatter.

Cheers MIKE
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Offline mr magnolia

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Re: An approach to Wire-in-Tube point operation
« Reply #20 on: March 01, 2015, 06:43:07 AM »
Thanks to all who have shared their thoughts and experiences on to topic.
It's one that I am currently pondering and there is lots of useful stuff here.
Donald

Offline Old Crow

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Re: An approach to Wire-in-Tube point operation
« Reply #21 on: November 12, 2017, 05:22:16 PM »
Fascinating ideas. Yes PTFE tubing - but what kind of wire are you using and where did you obtain it?

Offline ntpntpntp

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Re: An approach to Wire-in-Tube point operation
« Reply #22 on: November 12, 2017, 05:46:12 PM »
Fascinating ideas. Yes PTFE tubing - but what kind of wire are you using and where did you obtain it?

Brass wire is too soft. Piano wire can work, or a similar spring steel wire.  Find a model shop which deals with model aircraft - they'll usually stock suitable stuff as it's used for wing struts and servo rodding etc.

The only example of wire-n-tube on my current layout is a short length fitted to a point for a proposed fiddle yard extension which never came to pass!   It does illustrate using a slide switch for the polarity change.


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