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Author Topic: Boadicea  (Read 3164 times)

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Offline grahame

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Boadicea
« on: December 10, 2013, 12:29:19 PM »
I must say I am pretty "chuffed" with my "new" Boadicea. A recent visit from Houston (where I live now) to UK, and it was waiting at my brother's house in Woking. I think this is not the most common in the range and was very happy to pick up this one on eBay as a "buy it now" at 59 GBP. I have seen them go for a lot more than this. Its in really nice condition and runs really well:


Running through my N scale version of BR Tilehurst in early morning (hahaha - just an excuse for my dark video, sorry):


I also have a Britannia, the Boadicea is a much better darker green colour, I think Minitrix good the green a bit wrong when they first released these locos and marketed them as Hornby Minitrix in the red/yellow box. My Boadicea came in a green/yellow Minitrix plastic case.

 :D

Offline grahame

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Re: Boadicea
« Reply #1 on: December 10, 2013, 01:04:13 PM »
Prior to this I had lost many Boadiceas to snippers..a practice of prrgramming a software utility to swoop in with 3 seconds left and grabbing the item. I think this should be banned by eBay but they don't agree.  :veryangry:

Offline Newportnobby

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Re: Boadicea
« Reply #2 on: December 10, 2013, 01:25:35 PM »
I've had Boadicea for many years (oo-er) but it has started to run slow round curves and then takes off on the straights and I can't for the life of me figure out why.
Also it has to be run at implausibly fast scale speeds to have the 'lamps' lit ???

Offline CarriageShed

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Re: Boadicea
« Reply #3 on: December 10, 2013, 01:41:10 PM »
I'm pretty sure that Boadicea achieved take-off velocity on its third attempt, just after the video ended.

Offline Paddy

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Re: Boadicea
« Reply #4 on: December 10, 2013, 02:51:02 PM »
I must say I am pretty "chuffed" with my "new" Boadicea. A recent visit from Houston (where I live now) to UK, and it was waiting at my brother's house in Woking. I think this is not the most common in the range and was very happy to pick up this one on eBay as a "buy it now" at 59 GBP. I have seen them go for a lot more than this. Its in really nice condition and runs really well:


Running through my N scale version of BR Tilehurst in early morning (hahaha - just an excuse for my dark video, sorry):


I also have a Britannia, the Boadicea is a much better darker green colour, I think Minitrix good the green a bit wrong when they first released these locos and marketed them as Hornby Minitrix in the red/yellow box. My Boadiceathe me in a green/yellow Minitrix plastic case.

 :D


Got one of these too and agree they are a good loco.  The later versions are definitely a better colour and have spoked bogie wheels.  I actually have four:

Briannia
Boadicea
Oliver Cromwell
William Shakespeare

Merry Christmas

Paddy
« Last Edit: December 10, 2013, 09:35:42 PM by Paddy »
HOLLERTON JUNCTION (SHED 13C)
London Midland Region
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=11342.0

Offline Jfheath

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Re: Boadicea
« Reply #5 on: February 28, 2015, 12:10:11 AM »
There were only ever two made by Minitrix as far as I can tell - Boadicea and Britannia, although many have been rebadged and renumbered by owners.  Britannia comes in two versions - an early one with small front wheels and a later one which looks like the Boadicea, with the larger spoked front wheels.

I believe the earlier Britannia was lower geared - the higher gears being reserved for the faster Mallard and Scotsman.   This early model has a metal crank pin on the centre drive wheel.  The later Britannia and the Boadicea have plastic crank pins, and I believe the chassis is identical to that used in the Scotsman and mallard, and has a higher gearing as a result.

Offline Webbo

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Re: Boadicea
« Reply #6 on: February 28, 2015, 04:24:29 AM »
Prior to this I had lost many Boadiceas to snippers..a practice of prrgramming a software utility to swoop in with 3 seconds left and grabbing the item. I think this should be banned by eBay but they don't agree.  :veryangry:

Grahame

I disagree with you on the ethics of 'snippers'. I usually use a facility called Auction Sniper to place my bid with 10 or so seconds to go. One reason is that UK auctions usually finish at 6 am for us in Australia - not a good time to be bidding on stuff. Secondly, it prevents me from getting into a frenzied bidding war with someone against my best interests. My bid is what I'm prepared to pay for an item in the cool light of day and no more. An online bidder will always win if they put in a higher bid and there is nothing to prevent them from doing so at any time in the bidding process.

Sniping really works against the interests of the seller as the likelihood of a bidding war developing near the close of an auction is minimised.

Ian

Offline Paddy

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Re: Boadicea
« Reply #7 on: February 28, 2015, 06:49:44 AM »
There were only ever two made by Minitrix as far as I can tell - Boadicea and Britannia, although many have been rebadged and renumbered by owners.  Britannia comes in two versions - an early one with small front wheels and a later one which looks like the Boadicea, with the larger spoked front wheels.

Indeed.  My Oliver Cromwell and William Shakespeare are professional rename/renumbered versions.  All four are the later dark green Britannias with spoked bogie wheels.  Personally I love them and I have not been tempted to replace them with Dapol versions... yet!  :worried:

Paddy
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http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=11342.0

Offline bigmac

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Re: Boadicea
« Reply #8 on: November 30, 2018, 10:18:43 PM »
i won on ebay one of several"clans"--there were several offered the same week.  it has spoked bogey wheels.

  it is an errratic runner--but the opposite to a previous post--it huetles round curves but stutters or stops on straights.  its not the track--other locos are fine.  i dont think its pick up issues--i think its the motor.  it cogs when i start up--or even locks solid.

what can i do to clean the motor ?

i used to be indecisive...but now i'm not so sure.

Offline Jfheath

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Re: Boadicea
« Reply #9 on: November 30, 2018, 10:45:36 PM »
If it hurtles around corners, then its is probably not the motor that is at fault.

You might want to look at the pickup lead from the tender; install an earth pickup from the tender to avoid the intermittent connection on the poor drawbar spring; check the earth pickup on the rear bogey and the live pickup on the front bogey.
Also, the main drive wheel pickups may have some of the insulting paint rubbed off, and when the drive wheels move sideways (as they do), they could be shorting momentarily on the chassis.

Check the plastic gearing - you may have a tiny crack in one of the gears - they are difficult to spot.  Also stalling is sometimes due to a dodgy winding on the motor - is one of the windings black or discoloured ?


If the loco locks up completely, this may be due the valve gear / con-rods fighting against the wheels.  All of the wheel should have their 'weight' in the same position (on the clockface) on one side, and in the same position (but rotated 90 degrees) on the other side.   The 90 degrees isn't important - except that it means that the wheels have rotated on their axles.   The crank pin should be inserted in the centre drive wheel so that the linked con rod pivot is roughly over the centre of the wheel.  This is less easy to get wrong with the later versions with the plastic crank pin though.

It isn't unknown for old tyres to be slightly out of round, and lifting the main drive wheels off the track slightly.  Maybe not an issue going around the bend as the flanges on the outside of the bend will be making constant contact.

But to answer your question - the motor.  Unsolder it and take it out of the cab.  Make sure it spins freely.  Clean up the commutator - I use a matchstick chewed flat and soaked in meths.  Clean up the metal part of the armature, and slip a piece of card or coarse thick paper between it and the casing.  Spin the motor round so that any debris / grit gets chance to be removed.  Check the brushes and the spring that holds them in place and also the insulating sleeve on one arm of the spring.

Make sure the earth contact to the chassis is sound, - these later ones are usally soldered, but I have seen some where the brass coloured plate soldered onto the lower brush plate does not make adequate contact with the loose brass coloured plate on the floor of the cab.  Some chassis also have black paint sprayed where there is supposed to be metal to metal contact.

Run the motor out of the cab - you'll need to solder on some wires temporarily, and place a tiny drop of oil in the well where the spindle disappears into the brass bush.  Both ends.  Let it works its way in.

Finally - these locos have large flanges.  Although they run perfectly well on code 55 track, they wheels can lift slightly off the track if the tracks isn't perfectly level, and the flanges can bridge the gap between track and point blades if the point blades are not locking into position properly.

Another finally - check the wiring where it goes through the hole in the cab to the tender.  Make sure the insulation isn't worn through.

These Minitrix Locos go well with DCC, but you have to sort out the issues I describe first.

Hope that helps / gives you some ideas.
« Last Edit: November 30, 2018, 10:53:58 PM by Jfheath »

Offline bigmac

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Re: Boadicea
« Reply #10 on: December 01, 2018, 11:57:28 AM »
If it hurtles around corners, then its is probably not the motor that is at fault.

You might want to look at the pickup lead from the tender; install an earth pickup from the tender to avoid the intermittent connection on the poor drawbar spring; check the earth pickup on the rear bogey and the live pickup on the front bogey.
Also, the main drive wheel pickups may have some of the insulting paint rubbed off, and when the drive wheels move sideways (as they do), they could be shorting momentarily on the chassis.

Check the plastic gearing - you may have a tiny crack in one of the gears - they are difficult to spot.  Also stalling is sometimes due to a dodgy winding on the motor - is one of the windings black or discoloured ?


If the loco locks up completely, this may be due the valve gear / con-rods fighting against the wheels.  All of the wheel should have their 'weight' in the same position (on the clockface) on one side, and in the same position (but rotated 90 degrees) on the other side.   The 90 degrees isn't important - except that it means that the wheels have rotated on their axles.   The crank pin should be inserted in the centre drive wheel so that the linked con rod pivot is roughly over the centre of the wheel.  This is less easy to get wrong with the later versions with the plastic crank pin though.

It isn't unknown for old tyres to be slightly out of round, and lifting the main drive wheels off the track slightly.  Maybe not an issue going around the bend as the flanges on the outside of the bend will be making constant contact.

But to answer your question - the motor.  Unsolder it and take it out of the cab.  Make sure it spins freely.  Clean up the commutator - I use a matchstick chewed flat and soaked in meths.  Clean up the metal part of the armature, and slip a piece of card or coarse thick paper between it and the casing.  Spin the motor round so that any debris / grit gets chance to be removed.  Check the brushes and the spring that holds them in place and also the insulating sleeve on one arm of the spring.

Make sure the earth contact to the chassis is sound, - these later ones are usally soldered, but I have seen some where the brass coloured plate soldered onto the lower brush plate does not make adequate contact with the loose brass coloured plate on the floor of the cab.  Some chassis also have black paint sprayed where there is supposed to be metal to metal contact.

Run the motor out of the cab - you'll need to solder on some wires temporarily, and place a tiny drop of oil in the well where the spindle disappears into the brass bush.  Both ends.  Let it works its way in.

Finally - these locos have large flanges.  Although they run perfectly well on code 55 track, they wheels can lift slightly off the track if the tracks isn't perfectly level, and the flanges can bridge the gap between track and point blades if the point blades are not locking into position properly.

Another finally - check the wiring where it goes through the hole in the cab to the tender.  Make sure the insulation isn't worn through.

These Minitrix Locos go well with DCC, but you have to sort out the issues I describe first.

Hope that helps / gives you some ideas.

many thanks for your in depth reply. i had fitted a wire between the drawbar screws--but removed it yesterday--it made no difference.  the tiny wire spring is still there.  but my suspicion is the connection there--i will try a wire from the tender drawbar screw straight to the motor as the next step.
i used to be indecisive...but now i'm not so sure.

Offline bigmac

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Re: Boadicea
« Reply #11 on: December 01, 2018, 12:47:35 PM »

eureka.!
loco body off. remove drawbar screw to tender. fashioned a loop on the end of a soft wire..removed that wire spring.
new wire screwed into tender....other end taken to the hole where the loco body screws into.  runs perfectly--slowly--pulling a good load.  no faltrering--front lamp is constant--no flickering.

now to figure out where to attatch the new wire end nearer to  the motor and put body back on.
i used to be indecisive...but now i'm not so sure.

Offline Jfheath

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Re: Boadicea
« Reply #12 on: December 01, 2018, 02:39:21 PM »
Oh, well done.  That draw bar connection is usually very good on the older models, but on the newer ones, they seem to have not realised that the paint obstructs the electrical contact.  I still prefer the hard wired solution - especially since most of my Minitrix models are now DCC.

I go straight into the tender for the pickup.  There are two copper tabs under the boiler weight - one positive (RH wheels, one negative LH wheels.  Solder direct onto these.   Careful as the fixings are plastic - hold the tab with long nosed pliers to stop the heat from melting the plastic.


http://minitrix.org.uk/The4-6-2Locos/Britannia/Tender/


You can solder direct to the lower metal contact that the brush clips onto on the motor.

Here is the same idea taken from a Mallard.  Bottom thumbnail.
http://minitrix.org.uk/The4-6-2Locos/Britannia/Electrical/




Very fine loco wire is available from Expo tools. (The photo shows some thicker stuff I had avaialble, which isn't as good) I put in the loop to make it easier to remove the motor without de-soldering.

« Last Edit: December 01, 2018, 03:03:48 PM by Jfheath »

Offline bigmac

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Re: Boadicea
« Reply #13 on: December 01, 2018, 04:27:39 PM »
i wrapped the wire round the metal block the boiler screw goes into--untill i get the soldering iron out.  body back on ans screwed down.

the loco runs like dream--smooth , quiet, pulls well down to a crawl.  where before it stuttered on straight level code 55 track it will creep along without any jerks.  i really get a buzz out of sorting problems.

if i knew how to load a video on here i would do so.
i used to be indecisive...but now i'm not so sure.

 

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