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Author Topic: New Layout for Graham Farish 0-6-0 Steam Setup - help required / ideas / budget!  (Read 300 times)

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Offline crewearpley40

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Start slowly. Acquire bit by bit. My budget was more than yours. Cootroller 90, loco and stock least 150 to 200, points 10 to 15 pound each, track code 55 least £40 plus. Good advice all round here

Offline SteamFirstTimer

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 :thankyousign:

Bealam -

I hope the evening beer is going down well :)

Yes I'm learning about track class as I go. It is easy to stick with all Farish and not think!

I was considering some code 80 electrofrog points but not sure if they would run in well with my Farish?

Crewearpley40 -

Thank you

track code 55 vs 80 how did you come to this decision? - I would be interested? - as you can see im stuck in "make" mode rather than code - must continue reading!

 :laugh3:


Offline Newportnobby

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In your opinion given what equipment I have already how far short (budget wise) do you think I am?

That question is based on using new track parts rather than used and no scene craft (will leave this until later)



It's not really possible to answer that question. At some point Farish changed the track in their sets to Peco (code 80) but you're looking at between £10-£12 for a Peco point (med electrofrog) and £3 per yard for flexitrack plus controller + Capacitor Discharge Unit (if not built into the controller) + wires (minimum red and black). I'd recommend soldering wires to your track or using pre soldered fishplates such as the ones Peco do so a soldering iron - preferably temperature controlled - is another must.
The initial outlay to get into the hobby can be higher than many think but please don't let this put you off. Have you got a local club you can join? See......
http://www.ukmodelshops.co.uk

Offline crewearpley40

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I just brought track a long time ago and learned as i went along. Plenty of resources and useful boards to read plus knowledgeable people on the forum

Offline Innovationgame

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My advice is to take it slowly and start by having a firm track plan.  You don't need any fancy track planning software.  If necessary, you can start with a pencil and paper.  In the end, I used PowerPoint.  It took me three years just to come up with the final plan, before I started buying or building anything.  Then you need to think about what system you are going to use, DC or DCC.  Most people start with DC because they see it as simpler, but if you want to run more than one train, it can mean isolated sections, a lot of switches and multiple controllers.  Once you have done that, you can concentrate on building your track.  There is no reason why you can't buy stock in the meantime just to see what it looks like and you can run it on some of your old track to test it, etc.  But once the track is down, you can start running trains and thinking about scenery, platforms and buildings.  It's taken me three years to get where I am so far and that's after three years planning the layout.  To be fair, I was planning the layout during a period when there was no way I could start building it, so I might have completed the plans sooner if building had been possible..
With kind regards
Laurence
My personal website is a bit of a mish mash: www.innovationgame.com
Coventry Corporation Transport Society: www.cct-society.org.uk
Hessle: www.hessle.org.uk

Offline SteamFirstTimer

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  :hellosign:

Innovation:-

Thank you, yes that is my other headache, DC or not to DCC, this seems like a controversial area. For a rookie like me DC seems easier to handle,

Thank you for the guidance you are inline with the rest of the guys and appreciate your thoughts :)

To the rest of today's readers

So yes under further research even if my Deltic starter gets too £150- £200 which is up for debate (,currently has 10 watchers and two private messages about it) I think this layout idea of double loop 1st and 2nd, points and sidings and 2 locos is being a bit if a dreamer.

Thinking of taking everyone's advice onboard and starting at one loop, one siding, one loco, two wagons, set it all just right on my board and then slowly build out from there.

Of course if anyone wants to chip in tonight and disagree and thinks the dual loop can be done within my budget (£150. - 200) I would love to hear how.

A lot of you guys were bang in the money when you said buy a starter set might be the easiest way then build out from there. eBay suggests one could be snapped up at £150ish

Still welcome further comments on points brand and quality also + indeed if 6 x 3 is enough scope.

 :NGaugersRule:

Offline SteamFirstTimer

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Newport thank you for model website link by the way

 :thankyousign:

Offline keithbythe sea

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Looks like you are heading in a positive direction. As you have found thereís lots of advice and experience here.

You say that you already have a dc controller. Therefore I would start dc. Itís definitely cheaper than dcc. Controller chips for locos cost at least £20 and then there is the cost of fitting (zero if you can do it yourself!). Typically a new loco with a chip already fitted costs £25 more than the same loco without a chip.

I would still advise that buying (and adapting) as you progress is a great approach.

One area where buying second hand is relatively safe is buildings and scenery. Itís not really a problem if there are minor pieces missing!  :D

Online Bealman

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To answer the question in your post above, SFT, my layout is old, and when I started out, Peco code 55 didn't exist, so code 80 it is.

All points are live frog, though.

If I was starting out now, Code 55 would be my preferred system. Even that is coarse compared to the Finetrack advertised on this forum. However, the Finetrack points are in kit form.
« Last Edit: Today at 07:59:59 AM by Bealman »
Vision over visibility. Bono, U2.

Offline port perran

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Iíd chip in that if you are going to use second hand track then
a) Give it a good clean
b) Fit new fish plates (rail connectors) because these get bent and damaged so donít conduct electricity so well and also make it harder to connect track cleanly.
If it looks right then it most probably is right.


Offline SteamFirstTimer

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Thank you Port Perran

Yes some of my first radius curves have slightly bent fish plates and completely get what you mean.

Its not noticeable straight away but under close inspection you can see the Loco making a 1mm hop as it goes over.

Out of interest, wider question to everyone, the effect of bad fish plates / connections - how does this effect shelf life of running locos?

Is it as bad as I have read elsewhere that overtime the loco running order could be cut in half?

 :helpneededsign:

Cheers Guys

Online Bealman

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Vision over visibility. Bono, U2.

 

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