Quote from: ntpntpntp on February 24, 2026, 10:07:23 PMTo be honest, for cutting rail across board joints I would use a metal-tooth razor saw rather than a cutting disc in a mini-drill.  The saw is easier to get a vertical thin cut.

I would agree with Nick there, but only if the track crosses the baseboard join at a right angle.

Proxxon Micromot.
Not as powerful as a Dremel or other 230V power tool but very precise and silent.
It is also very slim so you can hold it more level when cutting track.

https://www.chronos.ltd.uk/product/proxxon-micromot-60-e-starter-set/

Jan

Quote from: maridunian on February 24, 2026, 01:45:41 PMHalf a century ago Bachmann, Rivarossi and Arnold produced 0-4-0 locos that were often redeployed under British bodyshells from GEM etc.

Ten years ago Hornby added a Peckett 0-4-0 to their OO range, shortly followed by Hattons launching a similar sized Andrew Barclay.

Who wouldn't want at least one of those in N Gauge?

Sorry, Mike, but my hand is up

Proper mains powered Dremel is going to be the best for longevity, but although I have one (and some other mini-drills I've been gifted) the one I use all the time is still my Parkside (Lidl) rechargeable set.  Had it good a good few years now.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276905739365


I bought a proper 3-jaw chuck to fit it instead of using the supplied chuck as I find I wear out the bras collets. 

To be honest, for cutting rail across board joints I would use a metal-tooth razor saw rather than a cutting disc in a mini-drill.  The saw is easier to get a vertical thin cut.

I use the mini-drill with a reinforced cutting disc when cutting track BEFORE it's laid, as it's quick and simple and I can use the face of the cutting disc to square-off and de-burr the rail end.

Hi all,

Unfortunately my cheapo Rolson Rechargeable Rotary Tool has died after two years dedicated service. May it rest in pieces (in the bin).

So, I'm on the hunt for a new one! Main use will be cutting track across baseboard joints. So, any suggestions? Ideally under £100 

Thanks
Mac

@maridurian

I did a 3D print 48DS for one of the little Japanese chassis plus a little bit of filing. DCC would be interesting to say the least at that size.

(https://github.com/EtchedPixels/3DPrint-NonCommercial/tree/main/48DS has the needed OpenSCAD files to generate the STL to print one)

We've had smallish 0-4-0 chassis even back into the 1970s that ran well (at least on electrofrogs). This probably belongs in the SPAM section but show what was possible with those chassis - and these are DCC converted.

A couple of Danygraig shed locos from Swansea



So they are definitely doable with DCC and modern technology!

The other thing to think about (regardless of region) is what brakes, your brake van has...

By your period, most faster-timed and long-distance freights would be vacuum-braked requiring a 'fitted' brake-van.

BR made it easy to tell which were fitted by adopting the LMS & LNER convention of painting them Bauxite with non-fitted (hand-brake only) vans being grey. - Even the Western (mostly) conformed on that one!

I havent any relevent photos to say whether the ex LMS Stanier type brake vans as modelled by Farish worked on the WR or not, but they were seen on the ex GE section lines in the 60s.

I also have a photo of the Pillbox type on a pick up goods on the Harwich branch, so they also strayed from home areas.

Martyn

Me too, cheers, Martin. Liberal lashings of Rule 1 here, mind you!

As I model the same era and similar location this thread will be of interest to me as well so, thanks, Martin.
Seems the 'pillbox' van was built by the SR and weighed in at 25T as opposed to the BR 20T. This gave a slightly better ride. With shared routes and inter regional traffic there's no real reason why you couldn't have them on your layout

https://www.hattons.co.uk/directory/versiondetails/2651/graham_farish_n_sr_pill_box_brake_van