Have to say, I've never even considered using filler to fill in a rail gap.
On the occasions where I haven't used IRJs, if I've been concerned about rails moving (through expansion, running or track cleaning) and making contact, I've just glued a sliver of plasticard in the gap.

Shouldn't be necessary to handle it.  When I've used it (and similar repair putty stuff from Lidl which is much better value)  I simply slice a tiny amount off with a scalpel and manipulate it into place using the blade. 

To be honest though, I'd persevere with the isolating joiners which will maintain proper rail alignment.  I've never had a problem with them.

First line of advice these days is generally "don't buy Milliput" - there are dozens of much cheaper alternative brands of epoxy putty... (Sorry...)
I've used the Hobbycraft own brand stuff which was about 1/3 the price...

Quote from: Bealman on Today at 01:13:42 PMIt sets rock hard, and I can't see it being suitable for the job you intend, where an amount of flexibility would surely be required.

agreed...
I don't think it's the right material for the job. For the task, we used a flexible mould making resin (it was a games workshop product IIRC) - equally nasty to handle but remains flexible when cured.

A Hornby Minitrix signal cabin on my layout, with a carved Milliput lower half. Seriously, it's like concrete now!

Yes. I've used it to model dry stone walling on my layout. It sets rock hard, and I can't see it being suitable for the job you intend, where an amount of flexibility would surely be required.

Just sayiin

Mick.

I tend to have a box of disposable plastic gloves as epoxy resin causes irritation and an old knife for modelling purposes that you never use with food . There are some harsh curing agents in the epoxy that cause irritation to skin

Hope helps you out

I hate insulated rail joiners so am leaving them out on my small layout. I have 2 areas where they should be used e.g. crossovers so I've left a suitable small gap, have purchased some Milliput, and intend to fill/file those gaps.
However, reading the instructions for Milliput it seems quite hazardous stuff to skin and eyes so has anyone got decent tips for this product, please?

Setting CVs on locos as the line has a speed limit of 60mph if it really existed, only done my 7 4Fs as it's too hot in the layout room - 38°C.  

Quote from: EtchedPixels on August 11, 2026, 12:39:58 AMLooks like someone has mangled the ends of the coach to move the buffers back so the can give the appearance of very close coupling.

Well spotted.  That makes the front of the T-shank pocket too far in, so has that been cut-n-shut?   Will probably need long shank couplings if it's going to run on tight curves.

Quote from: PLD on August 10, 2026, 10:30:15 PMSlightly off topic... but that doesn't look like a mk1 from those pics, and the underframe doesn't look to be fited properly. The buffers are out of position relative to the end of the body and there looks to be damage to the body...

Have you a photo of the whole coach?

Looks like someone has mangled the ends of the coach to move the buffers back so the can give the appearance of very close coupling. Fine in a rake with those couplers but going to be messy to undo.