Hello
For years I've had a junction where either the power cut out or a derailment. I've put it back together , with all of the track edges touching and no more gaps , and there is now a 1 inch gap. Do you know of a manufacturer who has a produces a 1" piece of track. I'm using Peco code 80. I don't have a track cutter.
Regards
Peco in the settrack curved point set. May do it separately.
As a last resort if you have a larger piece you want to send to me I'll cut it down to whatever size you want. PM me if that's of use
Quote from: mojo on November 10, 2024, 05:58:12 PMPeco in the settrack curved point set. May do it separately.
The piece referred to is ST-43 and would be ideal at 22mm but it is not sold separately
Post a photo so we know exactly what the problem is? Eg. is it Setrack or Streamline (or are you trying to mix the two ranges - they have different parallel track spacing).
Most people would simply buy and cut a length of track. Doesn't have to be a whole yard of flexi, just buy a piece of straight Settrack and a pack of rail joiners.
You don't need specific "track cutters" (in fact I'm not a fan of them). You can use a junior hacksaw with a fine tooth metal blade, an Xacto razor saw (again fine tooth blade for metal), or a cutting disk in a mini drill. In short, tools which you'd expect a railway modeller to accumulate :)
If it's just one piece of track you can even use the edge of a small file to cut it.
Leave a litte space for small errors and file back to the correct length once the piece of rail is separated.
Jan
Very many thanks for the replies and advice.
NTPNTPNTP - my layout is RTR and set track so no tools , so I guess that I have a train set not a model railway. But it keeps me amused.
Newportnobby ; Thanks, I'll sort out the size and will post a photo of the problem. The room is shared with my daughter's office so it may be a while.
Regards
Geoff
Hi Geoff,
I am cutting track at the moment , so if you carefully measure the exact length you need I am quite happy to cut a bit for you and pop a couple of joiners on so it will effectively be a little bit of set-track.
No charge ...... just happy to help. :D :D :D
All best wishes
Kevin
:beers:
If you do fancy having a go track cutting, I`ve got a few spare bits I`ll post if you PM me your address. A small file - emery boards will do - will tidy up the cut ends.
Hello Timbo66
That's very generous, but I have a few pieces of set track. But that's a good idea to have a practice run. I've now ordered a rasp file, but maybe also get some industrial gloves to protect my fingers.
Regards
Geoff
Quote from: geofff on November 12, 2024, 05:36:28 PMBut that's a good idea to have a practice run. I've now ordered a rasp file, but maybe also get some industrial gloves to protect my fingers.
If my definition of a rasp file is the same as yours, I think that will be too vicious. A junior hacksaw or fine razor saw followed by a fine cut file will be better, IMO.
Quote from: geofff on November 12, 2024, 05:36:28 PMI've now ordered a rasp file
Not the right tool for the job, a rasp is too coarse plus you need something to actually cut the rail. As I originally suggested (and Chris has seconded) you need a fine tooth junior hack saw or razor saw.
Thanks Chrism
I once got 11% in metal work test at school and I have not improved since. Thanks for the advice.
Regards
Geoff
For example this one (I'm not saying this is the cheapest option just one of the first that google found) or a similar razor saw from another brand.
https://elementgames.co.uk/other-airbrush-items/x-acto/x-acto-extra-fine-razor-saw-set-carded (https://elementgames.co.uk/other-airbrush-items/x-acto/x-acto-extra-fine-razor-saw-set-carded)
(https://elementgames.co.uk/images/products/35173/37301-large.jpg)
The important thing is the fine toothed blade intended for metal. You don't want the coarser tooth blades used for wood and plastic.
A set of small fine files to de-burr and square up the cut. I prefer sets with larger more comfortable handles :)
https://www.screwfix.com/p/magnusson-needle-file-set-5-1-2-6-pcs/4474V (https://www.screwfix.com/p/magnusson-needle-file-set-5-1-2-6-pcs/4474V)
(https://media.screwfix.com/is/image/ae235/4474V_P?$fxSharpen$=&wid=414&hei=414&dpr=on)
Quote from: geofff on November 12, 2024, 06:00:26 PMI once got 11% in metal work test at school and I have not improved since.
I didn't even do metalwork, but woodwork - and I rarely used a rasp for that.
For rail (any scale) a rasp is way too coarse and also has the wrong shape teeth - they are, generally, dug out of the base metal in a half moon shape, several teeth across the width and not meeting each other. They are intended for removing lots of material quickly, but roughly, and the job then needs to be finished off with something smoother.
A file, which has straight teeth running completely across the surface, is far more useful for most work in model making, not just for trimming rail ends - oh, and that rarely needs industrial gloves ;)
I only did metalwork at school to make new friends :laugh:
Thanks to NTPNTPNTP and chrism - looks like my Xmas gifts have been sorted.
Don't forget to post a photo of the actual trackwork gap problem you have?
Hi Geoff,
I've cut you a little bit of track, 2cm long ...
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/146/5755-121124194206-146895589.jpeg)
I used a cutting disc on my dremmel, and slipped a couple of rail joiners on :D
If you message me with your address I can send it off too you.
I don't want anything for it, just pop something in your favourite charity box next time you're out :thumbsup:
All best wishes
Kevin
:beers:
Hello Kevin
Very many thanks. I've sent you a PM.
Regards
Geoff
Hi Geoff,
Sorry missed the post this morning so as I've got to go out tomorrow (there's cider to be drunk, and I need to do a bit of research for my harbour layout :D ) I will get the bit of track in the post then :thumbsup:
Also that little set of files Nick posted is a great set for all sorts of things ..... I've got a few of them in use on my bench now ;)
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/146/5755-131124163837-146897129.jpeg)
All best wishes
Kevin
:beers:
As requested by NTPNTPNTP , a photo of the reason for the new piece (as supplied by Kevin).
From the main circuit, the original junction was point (Peco ST6), small straight (ST1) and another ST6 and then a short curve (ST4). The points then led on to 2 sidings. Now that the track has been re-laid , the photo shows the dilemma and the need for the short piece of track.
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/146/9429-131124174733.jpeg) (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=146910)
Thanks to all for the advice and comments
Hmm that looks like the wrong curve to use after the Setrack point if you want to go back to parallel tracks? You need an ST-3 standard R1 curve to match and counteract the 22.5 degree angle of the point. That piece you have there looks like an ST-4 half curve? The angle is wrong as well as it being too short.
Thanks Nick , it did seem to fit , I guess that's why there were track issues initially.
Regards
Geoff
Just to throw another spanner in the works if it were me I would look at replacing the short piece you have with a longer piece rather than filling the gap with a very short piece.
Hello Trainfish
If I finish it , I'll show a photo of where the new piece fits. It's to move the whole junction away from the rail that the small curve is touching. Thanks for the input.