Do you know if it is important to varnish first before weathering, or is it fine to weathering over how it is since locos come with a varnish over them of some sort in the first place when you get it brand new. Or what do you all usually do?. Also do you know what kind of brand varnish to use? or recommend.
Thank you.
I'm sure more expert team members will provide you with better insights, but based on my experience with applying decals and weathering, I always spray over a clear coat of Tamiya Spray TS-80 - Flat Clear, to make sure it's protected and looks "even" when taking photos with the rest of my rolling stock.
This is the product I use: Tamiya 100ml Spray TS-80 - Flat Clear (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tamiya-100ml-Spray-TS-80-Clear/dp/B0069G1JRC/ref=sr_1_2?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.BYimqEJ9OkxajRQmAC0HIA30z5edtN2plkN-N7zja1UHV8-sJETq02ztWvk-6Xu2dnQbf_koz2e09CZFAvJRr_hhIh21h6nhQIJmQ2nZzEMCct_u1lVNysyD4OnQQfpM6V7IPbP3rDLMVIpArjbzH8WyS0_sS4AjKXtAGKOZAAxsciVkSuvT73PSSqMQoYeTR9jGUw_aDE73Qd-RzoivDpgcK8W0dCE4ANDZfbfY9z1q54koC3V0JH3M-1t-WdSPLunlmrwWvTMfBV2Ye2oLuRfuhEPFQ2IVIdNKSIdzf2o.1YJX3XaqLUCMYpxWw0DhTM5jBtLmX1wgAw7Prrh3FAw&dib_tag=se&keywords=tamiya+clear+coat&qid=1721819466&sr=8-2)
What method of weathering - airbrushed paint and washes, or weathering powders?
Personally I prefer weathering powders over the top of the factory finish, and I don't varnish over the top in case I wish to remove or re-work the weathering at a later date.
I do quite a bit of weathering, for myself and commissions for customers and generally don't tend to use any varnish at all.
I generally use a mix of airbrushed acrylics, enamel streaking products and panel liners applied by brush and the various powders here and there to finish off. I find the matt airbrushed paint usually provides a good enough "key" for any powders to adhere too. As long as the model isn't handled continually or roughly, I've never felt the need for varnish over the top. Any varnish often tends to alter the finished colour of the paint or powders.
The exception is on full resprays, re-lining or renumbering projects where thin a coat of gloss varnish initially applied will help the decal adhere to the model. A coat of satin or matt varnish once the decal has been applied will then help to reduce the chance of the decal peeling or rubbing off due to handling.
I use matt or satin varnish after applying transfers (and before in gloss if not applying on gloss paint).
After weathering (paint rather than powders) I don't usually apply any extra varnish over the top.
Steven B.
Im bit confused. Enamel paints and oil paints are the same thing right? or wrong?. Also when it comes to thinners for streaking and possibly making washes, what kind of thinner should be used, do you use the same thinner for oil and enamel?, and ami right you make washes with the thinner and paint? because i only have experience making washes with acrylic medium.
Thank you.
Quote from: ntpntpntp on July 24, 2024, 12:27:46 PMWhat method of weathering - airbrushed paint and washes, or weathering powders?
Personally I prefer weathering powders over the top of the factory finish, and I don't varnish over the top in case I wish to remove or re-work the weathering at a later date.
Wash and powder, and oil paint ( i think ). No airbrush.
RTR models are not varnished in the factory. They are painted, then tampo printed with the livery details.
Thinners can remove the tampo printing (handy for renumbering or rebranding) so I always seal with a coat of varnish before weathering.
Oil paints and enamels are very different beasts. Both use an oil based carrier, but they behave in different ways - I recommended some research into oil paint weathering via Google and YouTube if this is something that you want to try. The beauty of oils is their slow drying time and the ability to blend them nicely.
Enamels can be used for weathering too, as can acrylics but each have pros and cons and different ways of working. Again, YouTube and Google well worth a look, especially some of the foreign and non railway modelling. The aircraft and military modellers do some amazing techniques.
I've just found this as a good starting point explaining about washes.
https://youtu.be/hYHF8xKj1Ug?si=JwdvIqWoIYLFbADj
Jo
I don't think there is any right or wrong with this.
I have weathered my own stuff using a mixture of oilbrushers and powders, with some dry brushing of acrylics.
I give them all a couple of sprays of either Humbrol Matt or Army Painter Matt varnish depending on what I have in, once the Oilbrushers have a few days to dry.
As others have said, if you are not going to touch the model much, then it is fine not varnish, however as my layout is small, stock does get moved around a bit more, so it adds protection.
I have never varnished any buildings I have done on the layout as they don't get touched.
Quote from: Ensign Elliott on July 24, 2024, 06:21:24 PMI do quite a bit of weathering, for myself and commissions for customers and generally don't tend to use any varnish at all.
I generally use a mix of airbrushed acrylics, enamel streaking products and panel liners applied by brush and the various powders here and there to finish off. I find the matt airbrushed paint usually provides a good enough "key" for any powders to adhere too. As long as the model isn't handled continually or roughly, I've never felt the need for varnish over the top. Any varnish often tends to alter the finished colour of the paint or powders.
The exception is on full resprays, re-lining or renumbering projects where thin a coat of gloss varnish initially applied will help the decal adhere to the model. A coat of satin or matt varnish once the decal has been applied will then help to reduce the chance of the decal peeling or rubbing off due to handling.
So do you weather over factory finish?, also what do you use for panel lining a wash? and what kind of paint.
Quote from: steadfast on July 26, 2024, 08:28:12 AMRTR models are not varnished in the factory. They are painted, then tampo printed with the livery details.
Thinners can remove the tampo printing (handy for renumbering or rebranding) so I always seal with a coat of varnish before weathering.
Oil paints and enamels are very different beasts. Both use an oil based carrier, but they behave in different ways - I recommended some research into oil paint weathering via Google and YouTube if this is something that you want to try. The beauty of oils is their slow drying time and the ability to blend them nicely.
Enamels can be used for weathering too, as can acrylics but each have pros and cons and different ways of working. Again, YouTube and Google well worth a look, especially some of the foreign and non railway modelling. The aircraft and military modellers do some amazing techniques.
I've just found this as a good starting point explaining about washes.
https://youtu.be/hYHF8xKj1Ug?si=JwdvIqWoIYLFbADj
Jo
I dont get it, would i use enamel thinner on oil paints or only on enamel paints?.
Quote from: steadfast on July 26, 2024, 08:28:12 AMRTR models are not varnished in the factory. They are painted, then tampo printed with the livery details.
Thinners can remove the tampo printing (handy for renumbering or rebranding) so I always seal with a coat of varnish before weathering.
Oil paints and enamels are very different beasts. Both use an oil based carrier, but they behave in different ways - I recommended some research into oil paint weathering via Google and YouTube if this is something that you want to try. The beauty of oils is their slow drying time and the ability to blend them nicely.
Enamels can be used for weathering too, as can acrylics but each have pros and cons and different ways of working. Again, YouTube and Google well worth a look, especially some of the foreign and non railway modelling. The aircraft and military modellers do some amazing techniques.
I've just found this as a good starting point explaining about washes.
https://youtu.be/hYHF8xKj1Ug?si=JwdvIqWoIYLFbADj
Jo
I thought and ahve herd that the locos do have a factory finish on them to protect to them handling are u sure about that, i guess RTR means ready to run.
Quote from: Grassyfield on July 26, 2024, 11:26:51 AMQuote from: steadfast on July 26, 2024, 08:28:12 AMRTR models are not varnished in the factory. They are painted, then tampo printed with the livery details.
Thinners can remove the tampo printing (handy for renumbering or rebranding) so I always seal with a coat of varnish before weathering.
Oil paints and enamels are very different beasts. Both use an oil based carrier, but they behave in different ways - I recommended some research into oil paint weathering via Google and YouTube if this is something that you want to try. The beauty of oils is their slow drying time and the ability to blend them nicely.
Enamels can be used for weathering too, as can acrylics but each have pros and cons and different ways of working. Again, YouTube and Google well worth a look, especially some of the foreign and non railway modelling. The aircraft and military modellers do some amazing techniques.
I've just found this as a good starting point explaining about washes.
https://youtu.be/hYHF8xKj1Ug?si=JwdvIqWoIYLFbADj
Jo
I dont get it, would i use enamel thinner on oil paints or only on enamel paints?.
Me personally I use white spirit for enamels, and Sansodor (a low odour turpentine style thinner) for oils, but you can use white spirit with oils, like in the video I linked previously.
Sansodor is a gentler solvent than white spririt, so less risk of attacking underlying finishes. I've seen people on YouTube using it to clean up after using enamel washes, so works with them too.
Whilst oils and enamels both use oil based products as their carriers, they are very different products.
Jo
Quote from: Grassyfield on July 26, 2024, 11:29:18 AMQuote from: steadfast on July 26, 2024, 08:28:12 AMRTR models are not varnished in the factory. They are painted, then tampo printed with the livery details.
Thinners can remove the tampo printing (handy for renumbering or rebranding) so I always seal with a coat of varnish before weathering.
Oil paints and enamels are very different beasts. Both use an oil based carrier, but they behave in different ways - I recommended some research into oil paint weathering via Google and YouTube if this is something that you want to try. The beauty of oils is their slow drying time and the ability to blend them nicely.
Enamels can be used for weathering too, as can acrylics but each have pros and cons and different ways of working. Again, YouTube and Google well worth a look, especially some of the foreign and non railway modelling. The aircraft and military modellers do some amazing techniques.
I've just found this as a good starting point explaining about washes.
https://youtu.be/hYHF8xKj1Ug?si=JwdvIqWoIYLFbADj
Jo
I thought and ahve herd that the locos do have a factory finish on them to protect to them handling are u sure about that, i guess RTR means ready to run.
Factory finish refers to the paint and printing on the model. If they were varnished, you wouldn't be able to renumber locos by scratching the number off with a fingernail or cocktail stick. Bachmann printing comes off particularly easily, whilst Dapol is the opposite extreme and can be harder wearing than the surrounding paint. On various makes of models, I have never had to sand through varnish to renumber. Additionally, I've had thinners accidentally remove the tampo printing when weathering, so it's definitely not sealed with varnish.
Jo
Quote from: Grassyfield on July 26, 2024, 11:18:11 AMSo do you weather over factory finish?, also what do you use for panel lining a wash? and what kind of paint.
Yes, I generally take the model out of the box, check it runs well and then start work on weathering. Usually do the streaking and panel lining first, followed by airbrushed acrylic paint. Then some more streaking and finally powders to finish off and a few minor touch ups like grease on buffers etc.. using a brush.
Have a look at what's out there regarding products - Vallejo, AK Interactive, Mig Ammo etc.. are good places to start.
When I did my first weathering a long time ago I practiced on a small piece of plastic sheet that I had scored some lines on and then sprayed with grey primer. I also used gouache paints which are entirely water soluble even long after they have dried. It meant I learned how paint and washes settled in crevices and how to dry brush colour. I could wash off the colour and start afresh with a clean test piece until I knew what I was doing. I did eventually use some weathering powders on the same test piece.
That sounds like a great idea! :thumbsup:
Im confused so just want to carry on about this. On most videos on utube people are using enamel thinners with oil paint, not white spirits. So just to confirm am i correct enamel thinner is perfectly fine to use with oil paint for making washes and thinning it. I was thinking of getting this Humbrol Enamel Thinner. I plan on using oil paints and powders only not enamel paints.
As a beginner I would recommend you use a thinner made for oil paints. I really cannot see the point of choosing enamel thinners. It just introduces another uncertainty. Where you buy your oil paints you will find a dozen oil paint thinners, mediums and solvents alongside to suit gloss, matt, silk, and all sorts of surface finishes. When you have mastered the basic thinned oil paint weathering, then you could experiment with solvents like the Humbrol thinners. When I began I eliminated the major uncertainty, my skill level, by using water soluble gouache. I could correct as I went along. I still use it sometimes when testing out a livery application on a 3D print.