N Gauge Forum

I need to take some great promo pics of my Coronation Scot kits, but my current efforts have thoroughly missed the mark.

I see so many great photos of people's N gauge adventures I hope you guys can help me! I really need help on EVERYTHING!

I don't have any pro photography gear at all, but everyone says the camera in my Google Pixel is one of the best phone cameras out there.

If there's no other choice, I might be able to afford a used DSLR off eBay, but I'd rather save my beer tokens if at all possible.

I've tried sunshine shots, both intense Florida sun and also overcast diffused light. I've tried building a light box and using all sorts of different lights, from desk incandescents all the way up to a trio of 100W LED floodlights  :o

Even using Lightroom to take the shots, the colours never look right.

I'm running out of options and I'm about ready to start tearing my hair out! Can anyone please help get me on the right tracks?

Cheers,

Ross.

Not having a smart phone I don't really know how good phone cameras are nowadays? As far as I'm concerned phones are for talking to people and maybe a quick message :)

If it's for small models you need a macro facility.  I use a 5 mega pixel small pocket camera for most things now but it's still not as good as my best photos taken on an ancient Olympus 2 mega pixel camera getting on for 20 years ago, on a tripod with some lighting.

(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/96/medium_5885-080720222828.jpeg) (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=96720)

I use a 15 year old Canon DSLR, and a cheap external flash mounted on the camera but with a diffuser, all on a tripod. Aperture set to get almost maximum depth of field and an exposure time of something like a minute.

Dave
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/88-030823200045.jpeg) (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=134485)

Quote from: RBTKraisee on August 03, 2023, 06:40:47 PMI need to take some great promo pics of my Coronation Scot kits, but my current efforts have thoroughly missed the mark.

I see so many great photos of people's N gauge adventures I hope you guys can help me! I really need help on EVERYTHING!

I don't have any pro photography gear at all, but everyone says the camera in my Google Pixel is one of the best phone cameras out there.

If there's no other choice, I might be able to afford a used DSLR off eBay, but I'd rather save my beer tokens if at all possible.

I've tried sunshine shots, both intense Florida sun and also overcast diffused light. I've tried building a light box and using all sorts of different lights, from desk incandescents all the way up to a trio of 100W LED floodlights  :o

Even using Lightroom to take the shots, the colours never look right.

I'm running out of options and I'm about ready to start tearing my hair out! Can anyone please help get me on the right tracks?

Can you post an example so we can see where the problem, and solution, might lie?

@chrism has just beat me to it, a photo would be good

Just a suggestion have you tried using a white cloth to sit and surround the subject on, sometimes works well, taking away external distractions.

Mike H

Tripod is for sure a requirement even for phone pics.

Can you set the phone to create the raw pictures (switch off also all AI-:censored: (changed by forum))?

Maybe you could ask a pro-photographer (local to you) for a live-lesson?

I use a cheapish Canon bridge camera which takes decent pics and vids. I use 2 pieces of A4 photocopy paper to create a background and ensure lighting (all bog standard kitchen type - nowt special, like) all around. I do have to be careful to ensure my bonce doesn't cast any shadow when I go for a close up of something.

(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/264-030823220211-134490989.jpeg)

The problem as I see it is your CS set is a loco and nine coaches and a bridge camera really wouldn't have the depth of field focus you'd want to take decent shots so I reckon a DSLR is a must

I use two white sheets of A4 copy paper (as @Newportnobby ) behind the subject and a Sony RX100 (other brands will do) on aperture priority without flash and with non-directional daylight (so no bright directional Florida sunshine) and that usually works out at F11 at 1/30 or 1/15 or even 1/8 sec. Then I edit the photo on simple Windows 10 or 11 photo software and brighten the picture by 20% or even 40%. If you are photographing black locos you change the shadow/highlight setting on Windows 10 or 11 to 100% to be able to see the details in the blackness.

Most of my shots on this forum or to sell on EBay have been done this way, hand held. The best thing for depth of focus is aperture priority and to remember that you can't hold anything really stable and blur free under 1/30 sec exposure, or 1/15 if you are a really cool bloke, or half dead. Aperture priority still struggles beyond 6" under these conditions so a Dapol class 121 bubble car is in focus in the front and not in focus at the rear, but folk can live with that. If you are flat onto the object you will do fine.

Whatever Google Pixel claims is probably claimed by iPhone too, but I have found that phone photos are no good for pixel resolution compared to "traditional" cameras. They win hands down in night shots though. Horses for courses and you learn what camera to take with you whether by day or night (e.g. on one of my many cruises...)

HTH
Bob

PS I don't use image stacking which @Nbodger uses as I don't need to bodge my photos any more than I do electronically for exposure purposes :)

Quote from: Newportnobby on August 03, 2023, 10:08:52 PMI use a cheapish Canon bridge camera which takes decent pics and vids. I use 2 pieces of A4 photocopy paper to create a background and ensure lighting (all bog standard kitchen type - nowt special, like) all around. I do have to be careful to ensure my bonce doesn't cast any shadow when I go for a close up of something.

(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/264-030823220211-134490989.jpeg)

The problem as I see it is your CS set is a loco and nine coaches and a bridge camera really wouldn't have the depth of field focus you'd want to take decent shots so I reckon a DSLR is a must

Mick @Newportnobby not a criticism just using to give my thoughts on enhancing your particular photograph, if you used a white contain sheet/tablecloth in lieu of the paper you would get a better photograph.

Because the locomotive is on a he angle, you loose focus along the length, again if taken fully square on would all be in focus but not as nice composition. The very reason I use image stacking probably taking 3 to 6 photographs at various focal points on the loco, then you would get a photograph of the loco fully in focus.

Also if you can set the aperture to its highest setting and slow shutter speed using a tripod you may be able to get it all in focus but will depend on camera limitations.

Mike H

Thanks for the responses so far - quite a few things in there for me to consider already!

Here are a few of my various tests. I deleted most of the pics because they are useless. These are some of the better ones  :confused1:

This is my standard "in front of the keyboard" quick'n'dirty image while working. It gives scale and works for quick updates...
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/8374-040823030335-134494376.jpeg)

100W Floodlight with white kitchen tissue background. Got banding from the frequency of the LED's...
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/8374-040823030331-134491214.jpeg)

100W Floodlight pointed at the ceiling, reflected downward...
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/8374-040823030339-1344962462.jpeg)

Light box with white card on all sides. Three light sources - all desk lamps. LED at each side, 1x Incandescent above. All shining through parchment paper for diffuse light...
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/8374-040823030335-1344941171.jpeg)

Kitchen Lights with white card...
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/8374-040823030339-134496765.jpeg)

Bathroom Lights with white paper...
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/8374-040823030340-1344981791.jpeg)

Outdoors, overcast onto plastic patterned garden table...
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/8374-040823031116-134499620.jpeg)

That last one is for another project, but it's possibly the best lighting I've had. Just difficult to get overcast conditions here! There is usually only a few minutes between bright sunshine and when the winds rise ahead of a storm.

Ross.

To me, the biggest 'problem' with your photos is the lighting. Most of the pictures show shadows in the foreground or along the lower parts of the coach. Looks like your light source is above and behind the subject. Try lighting from the front, but to the side of the camera perhaps even 45 degree angle.

I take my photos with an iPhone. Colour and resolution both entirely satisfactory especially for the likes of EBay. AS for SLRs etc., you can't beat the laws of optics. Depth of field is dependent on lens aperture and focal length no matter what the quality of the lens. 

Good luck with it
Webbo

Quote from: Nbodger on August 03, 2023, 10:48:40 PMMick @Newportnobby not a criticism just using to give my thoughts on enhancing your particular photograph, if you used a white contain sheet/tablecloth in lieu of the paper you would get a better photograph.

Because the locomotive is on a he angle, you loose focus along the length, again if taken fully square on would all be in focus but not as nice composition. The very reason I use image stacking probably taking 3 to 6 photographs at various focal points on the loco, then you would get a photograph of the loco fully in focus.

Also if you can set the aperture to its highest setting and slow shutter speed using a tripod you may be able to get it all in focus but will depend on camera limitations.

Mike H

@Nbodger Mike - it's a bridge camera. There is no faffing with apertures and speeds 'cos there ain't no such thing.
I hate side on shots. As you say, it tends to be all in focus but composition wise it sucks.
The best I can do is to focus on the middle of the loco and, while holding that focus, move the aim to the front of the loco and then depress the shutter. For such a pic there's no requirement for a tripod but I do use one for panning in my videos. It's not really a tripod, though, more a monopod. (SIRUI P204SR)

The colours don't look too far out to me but, as previously mentioned, the lighting isn't overly well set up - try with the lighting on the front of the subject and off to one side.

Another thing, you mentioned Lightroom in your opening post, is that Adobe Lightroom?
If so, you can adjust the white balance of a loaded image  by clicking on the eyedropper in the Develop - Basic - Color tools sidebar, then clicking on an area of the image that is, or should be, a neutral shade. In general, white or black is not an ideal area to choose because there can be a wide range of whites or blacks that just look white or black on the screen, try to find a neutral grey area.

The photo taken on the laptop is probably the best of the bunch - many of the others had a shadow being cast over the front of the model.

Perhaps try some white fabric over where ever you put your laptop?

Have you tried other background colours? A darker colour will result in less reflections from the white paper or card which will help the camera pick out the detail in the model rather than being dazzled by the reflection.

If the Florida sun is too bright, try earlier/later in the day or rig up a white sheet as a sun shade.


Steven B

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll give the lighting another try today or tomorrow, as time and weather allows :)

Some hunting also turned up a used Canon D40 10.1MP DSLR for about $65 shipped to me. Not bad. But if I risk Deb's wrath and stretch just a little further to about $85, there is a Canon EOS Rebel T1i / 500D with 15.1MP and 9-point autofocus, that has only 8,000 shots under its belt. I can even get a one-year protection plan (extra $10). Both come as Body only, but with batteries and charger too.

I already have a few EF lenses from my old EOS 300 film SLR; a 28-105, a 90-300 and a doubler. I've also got a tripod and a remote trigger too, so I really would have everything I need.

I'll take a closer look at all this in the morning after some  :sleep:

Ross.

And if you gift the DSLR to Deb?
I presume if you ask nicely, she will lend it back to you for promoting your sales...

Quote from: AlexanderJesse on August 04, 2023, 02:44:58 PMAnd if you guft the DSLR to Deb?
I presume if you ask nicely, she will lend it back to you for promoting your sales...

Clever. I can tell you're not single, Alexander :D

So I waited until the balcony produced a bit of shade, then hung a white towel up in the sunshine to reflect some brightness towards it and took a couple of pics...

The in-built camera app was awful with a white background - totally washed out, I won't even bother to show it.

Using Adobe Lightroom's camera app with default/auto settings on a white background...
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/8374-040823220101-134522415.jpeg)

This is also Lightroom's camera with defaults/auto settings, but on a black background...
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/8374-040823220102-1345292321.jpeg)

The black background seems to finally be getting somewhere!!

I'll try to dig out a much bigger piece of fine black cloth, or card, and try that, but it won't be today :(


I also went ahead and bit the bullet; I ordered the T1i DSLR, with the 1 year protection. It'll get here in about a week.

Ross.

So, quick Q: While I wait for the DSLR to arrive, can I ask if a 28-105 lens should be good enough for photographing models with (and hopefully layouts too) or do I need to be looking around for a lens to go with this new cam?

Ross.

Quote from: RBTKraisee on August 05, 2023, 09:12:08 PMSo, quick Q: While I wait for the DSLR to arrive, can I ask if a 28-105 lens should be good enough for photographing models (and hopefully layouts too) with or do I need to be looking around for a lens to go with this new cam?

Ross.

Ross, I use a 18-135 (£500) which I have used for around 2 years, totally suits my needs for most photography, this replaced a 18-55 when the auto focus motor packed in, I also have a 250-300mm which I rarely use these days.

Minimum focus distance of the 18-135 is 15 inch which can be a little restrictive, easily overcome by trimming photo.

Mike H

So I read that as it sounding like the 28mm end of the lens may not be ideal, but should still be usable, and I should expect to need to crop the final images - and thus I'll also need to frame the photo's with that in mind.

Fair enough.

Ross.

I have some fine black cloth around here somewhere, but it's playing hind'n'seek with me right now. So while I'm still hunting for it, I just tried a black project poster board, and with Lightroom camera it seems to be getting me into a viable window. What do you guys think?

(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/8374-050823215509-13454950.jpeg)
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/8374-050823215511-1345501925.jpeg)
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/8374-050823215508-134548880.jpeg)

What could I try to improve things further?

Ross.

I use an 18-55 on my Canon. However the non professional Canon's are not full frame but are APC-C cameras due to the sensor size, the effect of this means that every lens is effectively increased by 1.6. So an 18-55 acts like it was a 28-88 lens on a full size sensor or 35mm film. All my layout photos are taken with this lens.

Dave

Never mind the photos - when's the Coronation Scot going to be available? I Must Have One! Even though a 'Scot would never have been seen anywhere near Bangor station (my chosen location).... meh, I'll think of an excuse to have her passing through  :D

In fact, the lack of accurate dining coaches & kitchen cars started me down the road of designing my own - but based on how far I got, I'm about 3 years behind your designs!  :smiley-laughing:

OK - back on topic:

• Lighting - you should try to front light as much as possible, so any shadows are behind the model & therefore out of the picture. The light should be as diffuse as possible too, so you don't get bright spots or nasty reflections
• Pale stuff - photo on a dark background. Dark stuff, the opposite :D
• A macro lens for your new DSLR will allow you to get the camera right up close & still focus. I can't help on the lens selection (my camera's an Olympus); but you won't need an expensive one to get good shots. This isn't mandatory, though; for pictures that are destined for websites, you can just take a photo from far, far away & crop it. The forum admin will also thank you for uploading small images!

When I had a Nikon DSLR, I bought a ring light (that clips to the lens) to try to take better pictures. Unfortunately, I lost the camera, then the light (now I've found the camera again - but not before replacing it  :dunce:  but no sign of the light). It's maybe worth a try, the cheap Chinesium ones aren't much money, and you can always sell it again if it doesn't work out.

CScot is nearly ready. A few more weeks :)

Thanks for the advice. I've been looking at a ring light and I might invest in one next month.

Anyhoo, the very first attempts with the DSLR seem to be an improvement. Here is a focus stacked image of one of the coaches.

What do you guys think so far?

Ross.

(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/8374-120823044442-1347462194.jpeg)

Looks good to me, buddy.  :thumbsup:

Quote from: RBTKraisee on August 12, 2023, 04:45:01 AMThanks for the advice. I've been looking at a ring light and I might invest in one next month.

IMO, a ring light won't be much use for this sort of work. Yes, it'll give a greater spread of light but it'll still all be generally from one direction and will give a "flatter" result.

QuoteAnyhoo, the very first attempts with the DSLR seem to be an improvement. Here is a focus stacked image of one of the coaches.
What do you guys think so far?

Looks good, but I'd try and get the main lighting a bit further to the left so the detail parts along the sides cast a little bit of a shadow to show them up better.
Of course, it's not helped by the plastic being slightly translucent so getting detail shadows to show up is harder - maybe a light spray of primer would help with that.

First attempt: much better

@chrism: a spray of primer.. light grey...??
You mean like the famous photo paint job for german steam locos (back then in the good ole times of b/w photography)?

Quote from: AlexanderJesse on August 12, 2023, 07:22:49 AM@chrism: a spray of primer.. light grey...??

Yes, that'd do it - just something that's more opaque than the printed plastic. Doesn't even matter if it's precisely the same colour, it's the opaqueness that matters. The plastic is somewhat translucent because it has to be in order to allow light through to cure the material below the surface.

I discovered this fairly early on in my coach printing where everything looked hunky-dory until I primed the models and surface blemishes (like stepping on curved surfaces) became very apparent when they hadn't on the unpainted models - light was passing through from the back and "filling in" shadows on the front that would otherwise have been visible, whether from intended surface detail or from blemishes.

QuoteYou mean like the famous photo paint job for german steam locos (back then in the good ole times of b/w photography)?

British railways did the photographic grey paint jobs too for their record shots of, in particular, first of class builds - the main ones I've seen are GWR, who used a light grey for the green paintwork and, IICR, a dark grey for the black with suitable other shades for the lining. 

Photographic grey paint in the past was used to show off new locomotives. The early types of black and white film did not respond well to dark reds etc, showing them as almost black so grey was chosen so that all the details could be seen.

Did not know that UK manufacturers did it also...

Btw a nice way to show of "incorrect" locos or wagons on a layout: for a test as part of an ongoing acquisition the manufacturerbrought along his show-off of the rolling material...

Quote from: RBTKraisee on August 12, 2023, 04:45:01 AMWhat do you guys think so far?

Ross.

(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/8374-120823044442-1347462194.jpeg)

The coach looks fantastic!

This is nothing whatsoever to do with the photo; but it'd be nice to see it bigger ("My legs are grey. My ears are gnarled. My eyes are old and bent."). With so few pixels on display (and even an old-ish DSLR will give far more pixels than even a 4K screen can show), a clickable zoomy version would be cool. I've no idea if the gallery here can do that though!

Oh!

Thanks for letting me know that. I actually uploaded a much bigger version to the gallery, and just copied & pasted the top link as I usually do - but clearly something isn't working quite the same way as before. I'll have to investigate!

Ross.

I'm using this post to experiment with different copy & paste options from the gallery...

Ross.

BBCode:
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/8374-120823044442-1347462194.jpeg)

Thumbnail:
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/thumb_8374-120823044442-1347462194.jpeg) (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=134747)

Medium:
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/medium_8374-120823044442-1347462194.jpeg) (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=134747)

Direct Link:
https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/8374-120823044442-1347462194.jpeg

HTML Link:
<img src="https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/8374-120823044442-1347462194.jpeg" />

The "Medium" and "Thumbnail" were just the ticket  :thumbsup:

Nice! Your grab handles are amazing - I didn't even try to make mine that detailed...

So, the Medium option seems to work fairly well. I'll use that until the new image handling system is implemented by Chris & NGFTech at some point down the road.

Thanks for pointing that out to me!

Ross.

Quote from: AdeV on August 12, 2023, 07:54:53 PMThe "Medium" and "Thumbnail" were just the ticket  :thumbsup:

Nice! Your grab handles are amazing - I didn't even try to make mine that detailed...

On the old forum incarnation we could put in a link that showed the image sized for the thread display and when clicked would open the full-size image as a "popover" display which another click would close, rather than opening the gallery page for the image in a new window.

I guess that option isn't available in this incarnation, or is one of the things that still need to be added. I believe that many of the things to which we'd become accustomed were add-ons to the vanilla forum and gallery system so need to be added to this one, if possible and as & when time permits - also whilst leaving sufficient time to ensure that everything is working properly before risking breaking something with a further addition.

I was also trying the various link options at much the same time as you, Ross, with the same results as you.

Yes Chris, and NGFTech says that the current gallery is temporary and they're working with the software developer to implement a better system.

The Medium option will work until they can get things in order - though I just realised that my entire archive of images in my gallery and all of my existing threads, now won't open full size any more :(

Maybe we can persuade NGFTech to implement the same tweak as before, and when the new system comes online the old system will just continue to work too.

Ross.

On BB posted images if you wish to enlarge, right mouse click and open image in a new tab

Here's a little device I sometimes use when photographing models.  It consists of two pieces of wood and a single piece of paper. 

The purpose of this is to eliminate any distracting background when taking photos straight-on.  It also eliminates a "hard edge" if photographing against a wall, for example.  See the photo of the Prestwins below.

Obviously, white paper, or any other colour can be used, as the background.  I built my device to fit a standard sheet of (U.S.) paper but larger sizes could be built.

Ian

(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/3276-120823211933.jpeg) (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=134763)

(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/3276-120823211956.jpeg) (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=134764)

Excellent! Looks like they're floating in the sky!

But lighting must be important.... I can see no shadows!

I shouted to Hank Marvin "Hey you, over there in the shadows"

 :doh:

Quote from: icairns on August 12, 2023, 09:22:46 PMHere's a little device I sometimes use when photographing models.  It consists of two pieces of wood and a single piece of paper. 

The purpose of this is to eliminate any distracting background when taking photos straight-on.  It also eliminates a "hard edge" if photographing against a wall, for example.  See the photo of the Prestwins below.

Obviously, white paper, or any other colour can be used, as the background.  I built my device to fit a standard sheet of (U.S.) paper but larger sizes could be built.

Ian

(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/3276-120823211933.jpeg) (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=134763)

(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/3276-120823211956.jpeg) (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=134764)

That looks great. I've already got some big sheets of white and black paper and I've been trying something similar, but the lighting was never quite right for my Pixel cellphone. Now I've got the DSLR I think things are improving and I can get back to trying this sort of "set".

@Bealman makes a great point - I'd be really interested to see your lighting setup, if you can possibly get a shot next time its all setup?

Cheers,

Ross.

Quote from: Nbodger on August 12, 2023, 08:23:20 PMOn BB posted images if you wish to enlarge, right mouse click and open image in a new tab

That's a good idea. Even if you are barred from all my threads for a week ;)

Ross.

Quote from: RBTKraisee on August 13, 2023, 05:13:58 PM

Quote from: Nbodger on August 12, 2023, 08:23:20 PMOn BB posted images if you wish to enlarge, right mouse click and open image in a new tab

That's a good idea. Even if you are barred from all my threads for a week ;)

Ross.

---=== B Minus 2 Days ===---

@Nbodger I think the poor man is getting his Mikes and Micks mixed up :)

Quote from: RBTKraisee on August 13, 2023, 05:13:16 PMBealman (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=255) makes a great point - I'd be really interested to see your lighting setup, if you can possibly get a shot next time its all setup?

Cheers,

Ross.

@Bealman and @RBTKraisee:

My setup is not very exciting but it does seem to work, although it may not comply with the normal rules for photography.

My railway room is on the side of the house that does not get direct sunlight so I am always struggling for natural light.  To compensate for this, I use the two light stands shown in the photo below, each fitted with a 1,600 lumens LED lightbulb.  By carefully positioning the light stands and adjusting the heights, shadows can almost always be eliminated. 

The stands came with those white umbrellas for diffusing light but they always seemed to get in the way so I stopped using them.  They also reduced the light for the subject. 

While taking photographs, I have the three room lights on and use a flash(!).  I just have to be careful not to get too much glare with the flash (it is sometimes difficult to do this and I may have to take multiple photos before I am satisfied).

Even after using all of this, I sometimes use Affinity Photo software to increase the exposure by one stop to make the photos look brighter.

I hope this is of interest.

Ian

(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/3276-130823201850.jpeg) (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=134801)

Thanks for that. The setup is simple but very effective.  :thumbsup:

Totally agree there George.

Mind you, the green Type 4 on the left may have a slight problem  ;)  :thumbsup:

Quote from: icairns on August 13, 2023, 08:20:05 PM

Quote from: RBTKraisee on August 13, 2023, 05:13:16 PMBealman (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=255) makes a great point - I'd be really interested to see your lighting setup, if you can possibly get a shot next time its all setup?

Cheers,

Ross.

@Bealman and @RBTKraisee:

My setup is not very exciting but it does seem to work, although it may not comply with the normal rules for photography.

My railway room is on the side of the house that does not get direct sunlight so I am always struggling for natural light.  To compensate for this, I use the two light stands shown in the photo below, each fitted with a 1,600 lumens LED lightbulb.  By carefully positioning the light stands and adjusting the heights, shadows can almost always be eliminated. 

The stands came with those white umbrellas for diffusing light but they always seemed to get in the way so I stopped using them.  They also reduced the light for the subject. 

While taking photographs, I have the three room lights on and use a flash(!).  I just have to be careful not to get too much glare with the flash (it is sometimes difficult to do this and I may have to take multiple photos before I am satisfied).

Even after using all of this, I sometimes use Affinity Photo software to increase the exposure by one stop to make the photos look brighter.

I hope this is of interest.

Ian

(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/3276-130823201850.jpeg) (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=134801)

That's brilliant, thank you!

Looks like I might need to get some lights then, too :(  $33 for a pair on stands on scamazon. Not too bad, I guess.

Ross.

The key thing is to get the light source behind you and the camera, shining from an angle that prevents your shadow falling onto the subject. This could be natural or artificial light. If the subject's shadows are too dark, use ambient light or a secondary source to lighten them.

Here's my study. The ceiling light bar has 3 100W equivalent LED spots.

(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/2947-140823174207.jpeg)

If shadows are too stark (ie not enough daylight in the room), I point my LED anglepoise sideways to fill in.

Here's a recent photo taken with an Olympus TG-6 compact with focus stacking.

(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/2947-080823160436.jpeg)

Most of the model photos I take (including those shown in my shop, see below) used my Sony phone sitting on the layout or held on a tripod (most selfie sticks have a suitable adaptor).

Mike

I use a Meike 320 flash with a diffuser so that the flash goes in all directions except straight on and stops any shadows from appearing. The shutter is also set for a two second delay so there is no finger bounce affecting the camera.

Dave
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/88-140823175814.jpeg) (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=134823)
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/88-140823180528.jpeg) (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=134826)

Quote from: Newportnobby on August 13, 2023, 07:43:51 PM

Quote from: RBTKraisee on August 13, 2023, 05:13:58 PM

Quote from: Nbodger on August 12, 2023, 08:23:20 PMOn BB posted images if you wish to enlarge, right mouse click and open image in a new tab

That's a good idea. Even if you are barred from all my threads for a week ;)

Ross.

---=== B Minus 2 Days ===---

@Nbodger I think the poor man is getting his Mikes and Micks mixed up :)

Yes, sorry. Between taking Deb to her various docs, the kits, fixing multiple computers for a friend and 4am viewing of the Perseids, I've gotten only about 8 hours sleep in the last three nights. Not good. Definitely not good!

It really is amazing how your time gets used up when you're supposedly on a break!

And just to confirm, it's Newport Numpty who's the target of my ire right now!!!  :smiley-laughing:

Ross.