Hello, say i want to use Peco code 80 for my track layout and i want track plans with those tracks being used, am i looking for Peco code 80 track plans?, or Peco N gauge track plans. Because i can only really see peco n gauge track plans but can't tell if it's code 80 or not. And even if i wanted to follow a plan just peco 80 i cant even see any straight sections that are not flex track. Am i missing some thing, like is peco supposed to be combined with another brand like atlas, or is it not normal to just use just peco code 80 for your whole layout?. This is so annoying, like for e.g, kato unitrack you can see plans every where so it's super easy to just start buying and get in to this hobby, but i want to use code 80 peco because iv herd that's good etc but i cant figure this out, wouldn't they sell more tracks making it easier to know what to get etc like kato....
I'm complete noob, i just want a basic track plan but want to use some thing other then UNitrack or ez track.
Thank you very much.
G'day from Australia, Grassy, and welcome to the NGF!
My entire layout is Code 80. If you are going to use set track by Peco, it is Code 80.
I certainly wouldn't mix it with Kato.
There are many Peco track plan books, but not having used them, cannot comment.
All I can say is, if you want good looking track, flexible is a must.
Welcome on board! :beers:
Welcome. I agree with George. What space do you have available please ?
Worth a read through
https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=35556.0
Prepared by Mick
Chris
Thanks buddy, im from NZ, thanks for the welcome.
Is it normal to just buy track and lay it out and plan it like that lol :D.
Thanks mate.
Quote from: crewearpley40 on July 30, 2023, 09:49:33 AMWelcome. I agree with George. What space do you have available please ?
Worth a read through
https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=35556.0
Prepared by Mick
Chris
Thanks Chris. Just like a dinner 4 seater dinnner table sort of size...
Cheers man.
8 x 4 grassyfield aka real name ? Should cope with two ovals radius 3 outside. 2 inside, depending on what locus you intend to run
Peco offer 3 ranges of track for N gauge:
Setrack is their sectional track system using code 80 rail. I'd say mostly aimed at beginners but the components can still be used with more complex layouts. There are straight track sections of at least two lengths, four radii of curves, one radius of standard points, one radius of curved point and a diamond crossing. The points are all insulated frog. One possible drawback is the standard points are 9" radius which can be a bit tight for some more recent models (most older models will handle it fine).
Streamline is code 80 rail pointwork and flexible track aimed at people who wish to create more "flowing" layout designs. The pointwork and crossings are designed with larger radii than Setrack. Pointwork is mostly available in either insulated frog or live frog design - live frogs give more reliable running for short locos at low speeds and are no more difficult to use than insulated frogs once you've learned a couple of basic wiring "rules".
Universal Fine is code 55 rail pointwork and flexible track. It has arguably a more realistic look, almost all the pointwork has live frogs, the flexi track is actually stronger than code 80 due to the unique rail section partly embedded in the sleeper moulding.
The two code 80 systems can be connected and match very well but beware that Setrack naturally creates a parallel track spacing wider than Streamline and the point geometry angles are different to Streamline. The code 55 system will connect to code 80 but requires a bit of packing and there is a very slight step in the rail height. I would recommend NOT mixing code 80 and code 55 trackwork.
Peco have certainly published books of layout plans using Setrack. I'd say plans for Streamline tend to be produced by modellers. Once you move on to using the flexi track systems it's more a case of using a plan as inspiration but adapting it to suit your requirements and space available etc. If you find a track plan of interest check the bill of materials: if the track pieces are STnnn they are Setrack, SLnnn are Streamline. SLnnnF are the code 55 components.
I've been using the code 55 system since the mid 90s (and used code 80 before that since the 70s). I do still use the Setrack points in storage yards to save space, and also sometimes use Setrack curves for hidden tight curves where it's easier to lay than flexi track. I don't physically join the two rail codes though, they simply align at baseboard joints.
So I'm a "died-in-the-wool" Peco track user for all my layouts, but I will concede that Kato Unitrack is an easy to use sectional track system for beginners to put together a layout simply and easily. It's very easy to plug together and take apart, more robust than Peco for repeated assembly, therefore ideal if/when you want to try out different layout designs. It doesn't have as wide a range of pointwork as Peco, but has more pieces of straight track and more radii of curves. The track joints can be a little rough due to the looseness of the joiners but nothing to worry about. I have a box full of Unitrack simply for temporary tabletop test tracks etc. :)
Ha ha, I made my layout up as I went along.
A plan would be good.
What space have you available? We have many planning gurus here.
Just saw ntp's post. It's all exactly what he says.
Personally, if I was beginning again, I'd go for Peco Code 55.
Hi Grassyfield, and welcome to the forum.
I maintain the track plan is the most important part of any layout as, if you get it wrong, somewhere down the line you won't like it, you'll lose interest and end up abandoning the layout. I drew up my own track plan years ago and still have no desire to change it so it must be right, to my mind.
Nick (ntpx3) has laid out for you the differences in track systems. Without knowing what you intend to run I would really advise against set track, especially the points. The curves are very useful in hidden areas if you're not so hot on using flexitrack.
If you want to hand draw what sort of layout you're after or describe what features you want and the size of your boards, I'm happy to have a go for you
Quote from: crewearpley40 on July 30, 2023, 09:58:40 AM8 x 4 grassyfield aka real name ? Should cope with two ovals radius 3 outside. 2 inside, depending on what locus you intend to run
Hey, my name is Michael. :D. Thanks mate.
Michael . Welcome. Good advice from ntp nick and george
Quote from: ntpntpntp on July 30, 2023, 09:59:23 AMPeco offer 3 ranges of track for N gauge:
Setrack is their sectional track system using code 80 rail. I'd say mostly aimed at beginners but the components can still be used with more complex layouts. There are straight track sections of at least two lengths, four radii of curves, one radius of standard points, one radius of curved point and a diamond crossing. The points are all insulated frog. One possible drawback is the standard points are 9" radius which can be a bit tight for some more recent models (most older models will handle it fine).
Streamline is code 80 rail pointwork and flexible track aimed at people who wish to create more "flowing" layout designs. The pointwork and crossings are designed with larger radii than Setrack. Pointwork is mostly available in either insulated frog or live frog design - live frogs give more reliable running for short locos at low speeds and are no more difficult to use than insulated frogs once you've learned a couple of basic wiring "rules".
Universal Fine is code 55 rail pointwork and flexible track. It has arguably a more realistic look, almost all the pointwork has live frogs, the flexi track is actually stronger than code 80 due to the unique rail section partly embedded in the sleeper moulding.
The two code 80 systems can be connected and match very well but beware that Setrack naturally creates a parallel track spacing wider than Streamline and the point geometry angles are different to Streamline. The code 55 system will connect to code 80 but requires a bit of packing and there is a very slight step in the rail height. I would recommend NOT mixing code 80 and code 55 trackwork.
Peco have certainly published books of layout plans using Setrack. I'd say plans for Streamline tend to be produced by modellers. Once you move on to using the flexi track systems it's more a case of using a plan as inspiration but adapting it to suit your requirements and space available etc. If you find a track plan of interest check the bill of materials: if the track pieces are STnnn they are Setrack, SLnnn are Streamline. SLnnnF are the code 55 components.
I've been using the code 55 system since the mid 90s (and used code 80 before that since the 70s). I do still use the Setrack points in storage yards to save space, and also sometimes use Setrack curves for hidden tight curves where it's easier to lay than flexi track. I don't physically join the two rail codes though, they simply align at baseboard joints.
So I'm a "died-in-the-wool" Peco track user for all my layouts, but I will concede that Kato Unitrack is an easy to use sectional track system for beginners to put together a layout simply and easily. It's very easy to plug together and take apart, more robust than Peco for repeated assembly, therefore ideal if/when you want to try out different layout designs. It doesn't have as wide a range of pointwork as Peco, but has more pieces of straight track and more radii of curves. The track joints can be a little rough due to the looseness of the joiners but nothing to worry about. I have a box full of Unitrack simply for temporary tabletop test tracks etc. :)
Thank you so much, so set track is fully/seamlessly compatible with the stream line. Thanks Npt.
Beware getting any N gauge track plans book from a chap called Cyril Freezer.
He used to be a model railway guru but has incorrectly scaled them down from 00 and they won't fit like they say they will :no:
Quote from: Newportnobby on July 30, 2023, 10:18:13 AMHi Grassyfield, and welcome to the forum.
I maintain the track plan is the most important part of any layout as, if you get it wrong, somewhere down the line you won't like it, you'll lose interest and end up abandoning the layout. I drew up my own track plan years ago and still have no desire to change it so it must be right, to my mind.
Nick (ntpx3) has laid out for you the differences in track systems. Without knowing what you intend to run I would really advise against set track, especially the points. The curves are very useful in hidden areas if you're not so hot on using flexitrack.
If you want to hand draw what sort of layout you're after or describe what features you want and the size of your boards, I'm happy to have a go for you
Hey i'm extremely grateful, i will more then likely speak to you soon :D, it's quite basic. thanks so much!!!!!!!!!
Quote from: Newportnobby on July 30, 2023, 10:44:53 AMBeware getting any N gauge track plans book from a chap called Cyril Freezer.
He used to be a model railway guru but has incorrectly scaled them down from 00 and they won't fit like they say they will :no:
Thank you!!.
What era you modelling please ?
Eg steam
diesel
Both ?
50s / 60s
Thanks Michael.. 8x 4 should do it
Quote from: Grassyfield on July 30, 2023, 10:43:42 AMso set track is fully/seamlessly compatible with the stream line.
Yes in terms of connecting together. The track height, rail, look of the sleepers all match. Setrack pieces have a little extra webbing on the end sleepers (presume for strength around the pre-fitted joiners), and don't try and mix Setrack and Streamline pointwork in the same formation as the geometries are different as I mentioned earlier.
When you start to work with Streamline and flexi track you learn about cutting the rail, cutting away a sleeper or two to fit the rail joiners etc.
This return loop board uses Setrack for the main curves, code 80 flexi for the gentle transition curve and the scenic trackwork on the other board is code 55 :)
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/130/5885-270323220559.jpeg)
Quote from: crewearpley40 on July 30, 2023, 10:54:18 AMThanks Michael.. 8x 4 should do it
You appear to have made an assumption a 4 seater dining table is 8ft x 4ft
I'm sat at a 4 seater dining table which is 4ft x 3ft.
I suggest we let the author tell us what size he has to play with (oo-er, missus)
Quote from: Newportnobby on July 30, 2023, 11:02:30 AMQuote from: crewearpley40 on July 30, 2023, 10:54:18 AMThanks Michael.. 8x 4 should do it
You appear to have made an assumption a 4 seater dining table is 8ft x 4ft
I'm sat at a 4 seater dining table which is 4ft x 3ft.
I suggest we let the author tell us what size he has to play with (oo-er, missus)
Haha my bad... So i want the size to be 3x5 just like this size on this video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvinQ1kwzMY&t=621s just the size though i want same lay out.
Quote from: crewearpley40 on July 30, 2023, 10:54:18 AMWhat era you modelling please ?
Eg steam
diesel
Both ?
50s / 60s
Thanks Michael.. 8x 4 should do it
Both, thanks.
Thank you so much, so set track is fully/seamlessly compatible with the stream line. Thanks Npt.
[/quote]
Welcome Michael
Don't know if this helps, but when I started modelling again I used Peco code 80 Setrack Curves and Peco Streamline code 80 points and flexitrack. All went together fine and I found it easier to use Setrack curves, rather than try and bend flexitrack to the correct radius.
Ed
Quote from: ntpntpntp on July 30, 2023, 10:54:41 AMQuote from: Grassyfield on July 30, 2023, 10:43:42 AMso set track is fully/seamlessly compatible with the stream line.
Yes in terms of connecting together. The track height, rail, look of the sleepers all match. Setrack pieces have a little extra webbing on the end sleepers (presume for strength around the pre-fitted joiners), and don't try and mix Setrack and Streamline pointwork in the same formation as the geometries are different as I mentioned earlier.
When you start to work with Streamline and flexi track you learn about cutting the rail, cutting away a sleeper or two to fit the rail joiners etc.
This return loop board uses Setrack for the main curves, code 80 flexi for the gentle transition curve and the scenic trackwork on the other board is code 55 :)
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/130/5885-270323220559.jpeg)
Thanks!, im mainly worried about getting the best / correct easments with flex track because i still dont understand that quite yet. But im sure once i buy it i'll figure it out.
Quote from: Ed on July 30, 2023, 11:08:58 AMThank you so much, so set track is fully/seamlessly compatible with the stream line. Thanks Npt.
Welcome Michael
Don't know if this helps, but when I started modelling again I used Peco code 80 Setrack Curves and Peco Streamline code 80 points and flexitrack. All went together fine and I found it easier to use Setrack curves, rather than try and bend flexitrack to the correct radius.
Ed
[/quote]
Thank you that's helpful.
5ft x 3ft is a decent size to have providing you can gain access to all areas
Edit:- if you want the same layout as in the video my suggestion would be to use Kato Unitrack
Quote from: Newportnobby on July 30, 2023, 11:11:29 AM5ft x 3ft is a decent size to have providing you can gain access to all areas
Yeah i think it is perfect. Cheers!.
Hello and welcome aboard. And to the wonderful hobby of 'N' gauge model railways.
I think you are making a good choice starting out with Peco 'Setrack'. A small first layout using it will be a first-class learning experience. Your next layout might use a different type of track, or still use 'Setrack', or might even be a combination of both. After many years in the hobby I have returned to using 'Setrack' because it is so much fun.
As for track plans, Peco produces ideal 'Setrack' plans book which I have illustrated below. The '00' gauge one is also interesting and the track plan for my Poppingham layout was derived from '00' Plan 6, 'The Axmouth and Beer Railway'. Typing that into 'Bing' or 'Google' as a picture search ought to let you see the plan. It is straightforward to build an '00' plan in 'N' gauge. The only thing to beware of is any central operating well will likely be too small to fit into. But, at quarter the baseboard size, a central operating well is unlikely to be necessary in 'N'.
In 'N', Peco 'Setrack' has four curve radii: Nos. 1 - 4. It can be a good idea to use No. 2 as your minimum, notwithstanding a plan might use No. 1, as this is the minimum radius suggested by many manufacturers now. This means you will find a baseboard width of 2'6" ideal.
Poppingham is only 'three by two' because I am using older-style locomotives and rolling stock that are content with No. 1 radius curves.
A great thing about building a small first layout is you quickly learn a lot and, if you then fancy building something more ambitious, you can still enjoy running trains while you build your next layout.
'N' Gauge is Such Fun!
With all good wishes
John
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/134/6222-300723115904.jpeg) (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=134299)
Quote from: Ed on July 30, 2023, 11:08:58 AMThank you so much, so set track is fully/seamlessly compatible with the stream line. Thanks Npt.
Welcome Michael
Don't know if this helps, but when I started modelling again I used Peco code 80 Setrack Curves and Peco Streamline code 80 points and flexitrack. All went together fine and I found it easier to use Setrack curves, rather than try and bend flexitrack to the correct radius.
Ed
[/quote]
That's interesting, so flexi for the straights?, does that hold up very well in terms of being perfectly straight?. Thanks so much that is helpful.
With regard to the choice of track system, the best advice is, whatever you choose stick with that and don't try to mix different types on the same layout...
With regard to track plans, it depends what you want from it:
If you want a realistic 'Model or a railway', look for prototype plans - don't copy somebody else layout (potentially a copy of a copy of a copy, with inherent flaws and repeated issues)
If you want lots of track to simply "play with trains", Peco have done a number of books over the years. As Mick (Newport Nobby) says, the original compiled by Cyril Freezer were a little optimistic on what could be fitted in the space:
Avoid:
https://peco-uk.com/collections/books-and-planbooks/products/railway-modeller-book-of-n-gauge-track-plans
This more recent version is more realistic:
https://peco-uk.com/collections/books-and-planbooks/products/n-gauge-planbook
If your thinking about US railways as per that video, this is the nearest US orientated equivalent and has good reviews (IIRC based around ATLAS track):
https://www.amazon.co.uk/More-Track-Plans-Model-Railroaders/dp/0890247765
That's interesting, so flexi for the straights?, does that hold up very well in terms of being perfectly straight?. Thanks so much that is helpful.
[/quote]
I just butted them up against a yard stick/metre ruler edge to get them straight and then fixed them down.
Bear in mind, if you do use flexitrack you will almost certainly need to cut some at some point to get the length you want.
Ed
Not exactly cheap but if you use flexitrack (code 55 or 80) these tracksettas are hugely useful things, especially the straight one!
https://railsofsheffield.com/collections/tracksetta?tags_scale_vsofeb5rx8ncvkx4f1i9n6kd=N-Gauge&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIu9fQvqy2gAMVRfjtCh1OJgrlEAAYAyAAEgIBqvD_BwE
I'm really confused with curve easements...say i want a half circle connecting to a straight for a loop using peco, am i going to be able to make that half circle a better more correct easement with flex track, or can i get the exact same correct easement with settrack using bigger radius for the start of bothh ends?.
Thank you very much :D.
Quote from: Grassyfield on July 30, 2023, 05:09:23 PMI'm really confused with curve easements...say i want a half circle connecting to a straight for a loop using peco, am i going to be able to make that half circle a better more correct easement with flex track, or can i get the exact same correct easement with settrack using bigger radius for the start of both ends?.
Thank you very much :D.
To be honest, if you are concerned about prototype fidelity of curve easements etc, sectional track systems aren't really the right option for you...
Quote from: PLD on July 30, 2023, 05:16:13 PMQuote from: Grassyfield on July 30, 2023, 05:09:23 PMI'm really confused with curve easements...say i want a half circle connecting to a straight for a loop using peco, am i going to be able to make that half circle a better more correct easement with flex track, or can i get the exact same correct easement with settrack using bigger radius for the start of both ends?.
Thank you very much :D.
To be honest, if you are concerned about prototype fidelity of curve easements etc, sectional track systems aren't really the right option for you...
Yeah i think you're right, thanks.
Is it most common to do most or all the curve in flex track, or to combine some of it with the set? or cut the flex in to some sections, because if it's a small radius im not sure how well that works with it using a single track for most or all of it.. Cheers man
@Grassyfield as per my earlier photo of the return loop, you'll get a smoother transition / easement curve using flexi track than you will using larger radii of sectional track.
As
@PLD says if things like transition curves are high on your list of features then going with Streamline points and flexi are the way to go.
On the other hand, as you're a self-confessed a newbie I'd still recommend playing with something like Unitrack to begin with, while you work out a track plan which suits your available space. You're bound to change your mind a few times and Unitrack is better suited to repeated changes than Peco Setrack (and definitely better suited than Streamline) :D Your baseboard size at 3x5 will require quite tight curves which are easier to create using sectional track than trying to fight with flexi. To be honest a small baseboard such as 3x5 isn't very condusive to incorporating flowing trackwork and transition curves.
This is all Streamline code 55 at the front, code 80 in the storage yard, but is almost 13' long and 38" total depth.
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/130/medium_5885-140323151529.jpeg) (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=130687)
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/129/medium_5885-140223195342.jpeg) (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=129919)
Quote from: ntpntpntp on July 30, 2023, 05:57:08 PM@Grassyfield as per my earlier photo of the return loop, you'll get a smoother transition / easement curve using flexi track than you will using larger radii of sectional track.
As @PLD says if things like transition curves are high on your list of features then going with Streamline points and flexi are the way to go.
On the other hand, as you're a self-confessed a newbie I'd still recommend playing with something like Unitrack to begin with, while you work out a track plan which suits your available space. You're bound to change your mind a few times and Unitrack is better suited to repeated changes than Peco Setrack (and definitely better suited than Streamline) :D Your baseboard size at 3x5 will require quite tight curves which are easier to create using sectional track than trying to fight with flexi. To be honest a small baseboard such as 3x5 isn't very condusive to incorporating flowing trackwork and transition curves.
This is all Streamline code 55 at the front, code 80 in the storage yard, but is almost 13' long and 38" total depth.
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/130/medium_5885-140323151529.jpeg) (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=130687)
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/129/medium_5885-140223195342.jpeg) (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=129919)
Interesting, i could make it slightly bigger to incorporate a better easement. Is it normal to use a single flex track for the whole half, or better do it do it some sections? or combine little bit of settrack. Epic photos also!!. Cheers.
Quote from: Grassyfield on July 30, 2023, 06:28:10 PMIs it normal to use a single flex track for the whole half, or better do it do it some sections? or combine little bit of settrack.
Yes I would always recommend using a single length of flexi track around an entire curve if you can, otherwise you end up with problems at the joints. People find they have to solder the joints and joiners to create a strong joint that will flow with the curve and not dog-leg. Soldering track joints is not something I'm keen on doing, I prefer to allow joints to expand a little with temperature. Hence the comments by myself and others suggesting use sectional track for tight curves, they're pre-moulded and pre-stressed so you don't have to fight against the curve as you do with flexi track.
In my photo above, the hidden tight curves at each end of the layout are formed from single pieces of flexi either side of the natural join where the baseboards split at the backscene. That's different to my return loop board which uses sectional track to get round the full balloon shape.
PS - no need to quote entire posts, just quote the post into the editor and delete stuff to leave just the text you're actually replying to?
My bad :D , and thank you appreciate your help alot.
@ntpntpntp This seems like it is easy to know but i cant figure it out. How do u know at what point you are going to tight exactly?. Also with kato unitrack, that has easement tracks and is easy to put together, and you can still ballast over the bed to give it a realistic look etc, but you mentioned they joined parts can be a bit loose. Can this be fixed by just having the tracks glued down nicely?, thank you.
You mean too tight for flexi track? You can certainly bend the stuff down to 9" radius (and probably less) but it becomes harder to get a smooth curve and you may need to make a few extra cuts in the sleeper webbing. The tighter you go the more the inner rail becomes longer than the outer rail and will need cutting back to length. With the code 55 flexi there are apparently some arrow markings underneath which indicate which way the stuff is designed to bend down to the tightest radii, but to be honest I never took any notice and just used the track as it comes. I don't think the code 80 flexi has similar markings or design restrictions.
I must admit I'm not familiar with the Unitrack easement pieces and I don't have any. I just took a quick look at a youtube video and they seem to be intended for transition into and out of super-elevated curves?
Yes I found with Unitrack that the ease of rapid assembly/disassembly with the special Unijoiners means those joiners can be a little loose and create joints with slight height mismatches. It's only a tiny amount and probably doesn't bother many folk who use the system, but to me it's noticeably worse than I see with a tight fit track system such as Peco and most other brands. I've had models get stuck at the rough joints due to low hanging brake shoes or sanding pipes. I'm sure the Unitrack joints can be perfected if the track is properly and accurately secured to a base (either by screws, glue, or double-sided tape).
Quote from: Grassyfield on July 30, 2023, 11:06:42 AMHaha my bad... So i want the size to be 3x5 just like this size on this video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvinQ1kwzMY&t=621s just the size though i want same lay out.
Sorry, but I read this as you wanting the same track plan as in the vid which prompted me to suggest Unitrack would be the easiest option.
Why? Because Kato do the necessary scissors crossing and also do the elevated track sections contained in the plan.
If the track plan is not what you're after then just ignore this post.
@Grassyfield buy yourself one of these track-packs
Peco ST-300 - 1st Radius set-track starter set
Peco ST-301 - 2nd Radius set-track starter set
Then add one or two of SL-300 and a medium radius point (e.g. SL-396 or SL-E396).
Once you've got them, have a play before deciding what to do next.
Steven B
@Newportnobby It's no problem Sir, i should be more clear. I was actually thinking about those exact tracks at first, but then i decided ill just do roughly the same size as that layout with peco, but now im not too sure really what to do really. I would love to just buy that track and follow that but couple of comments have put me off it, although i understand it is possible to probably get around most of these things. Like covering the bed with ballast and gluing every thing down in a permanent way so there is no looseness at all or height difference with the rail.
@ntpntpntp Excuse me NTP - if was to use unitrack like im saying in permanent way where its only connected together once and is brand new track, do u think what your saying is more unlikely?. Thank you!!!!
@ Steven B Thank you so much i will look in to that now.
You know what? Just start building like I did.
Otherwise your life goes by ;)
Quote from: Grassyfield on July 31, 2023, 09:50:59 AMExcuse me NTP - if was to use unitrack like im saying in permanent way where its only connected together once and is brand new track, do u think what your saying is more unlikely?. Thank you!!!!
It's not so much whether the Unitrack is brand new, I'm sure it's just a case of being aware of the difference in design and taking care when securing the track to the board. As I say, the slight bumps I find in the joints probably don't bother most people but because I only use Unitrack for temporary set-ups for servicing and testing I'm observing the loco closely and I do notice it compared to my Peco or the Fleischmann, Minitrix, Ibertren track of which I also have examples in complete train sets. When I set up one of those sets on a table-top they are always smooth and tight joints.
Don't be put off Unitrack just by what I'm saying, it's still a clever system worth you buying and playing with some to get a feel for it and whether or not you might prefer it to Peco etc. The good thing is if you decide Unitrack isn't for you then I get the impression it holds its value as used track better than other brands due to the robustness. So often you see second-hand Peco etc. and it's got bent joiners, broken sleepers etc. where it was pinned to a board, old ballast etc. stuck to it. That's a reason I won't buy second-hand track (especially pointwork) other than boxed unused/surplus stuff that I can be sure hasn't been messed with.
As
@Bealman says, go buy some track and have a play :)
Awesome, well that's all my questions i can think of haha, you have all been extremely kind and helpful, thank you all so much for all your time it has really helped a large amount.
Cheers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
We look forward to your boards and track which you will buy and plan then hopefully lay. Chris
@Grassyfield as you've obviously been looking around at track systems you may have already seen this video, but I'll add it here. It gives a good overview of some (but not all) of the N gauge track systems. It's from an American modeller's viewpoint so it's missing some of the European track systems and also Peco Setrack. I agree with his conclusions other than I rate Peco 55 1st simply because it's a flexi track system I've used since the 90s for all my German themed exhibition layouts so I'm very familiar with it and for my taste it looks better than Unitrack once ballasted and weathered.
I would recommend a track layout program.
I use Anyrail (https://www.anyrail.com/en (https://www.anyrail.com/en)) which has a nice library of track components from various manufacturers. It has PECO code80 set track as well as the code80 streamline range. Also is available free but with limitations on number of pieces of track that can be used.
Another similar track program SCARM (https://www.scarm.info/index.php (https://www.scarm.info/index.php)) is also available. It has N code80 track plan (https://scarm.info/layouts/track_plans.php?ltp=38 (https://scarm.info/layouts/track_plans.php?ltp=38)) which could be easily extended to suit your proposed baseboard size.
The PECO N Gauge Setrack Planbook is available from hobby shops in Oz and has some nice plans. Also PECO PB4 N Gauge Track Plans Book. Each costs less than $10.
I put "peco setrack plans" into Mk Google and loads of books leafllets were listed.
I agree that looking at track plans (as many as possible) can be a useful aid in helping you design your own layout. The same applies to looking at other people's layouts. If you can't get to any decent exhibitions in NZ then there are lots to view on Youtube. You really need to decide what your priorities are. Mainly goods or mainly passenger trains? How long do you want your trains to be - eg a nine/ten coach passenger train will need a station with about a 1.5m long platform? Do you want a terminus? How big a fiddle yard do you want to include? Do you want to include an incline to a higher level - if so think about how long the inclines need to be at 3% on straights and 2% on curves? If you are modeling a steam era do you need runarounds at the end of platforms or even do you want to incorporate a turntable? Do you want to include a reversing loop?
Only when you've considered all these things (and probably more that I've forgotten to list) can you start to come up with the track design that will work best to meet your wishes - almost certainly with some compromises along the way. I agree with
@NinOz using a track design package such as Anyrail (I'm a big fan of Anyrail which is simple to use) will definitely help you.
As far as track goes, if you have the choice, use Peco Code-55 rather than Code-80. It's much easier to work with when you start cutting and bending it (I've used both so speak from experience). It looks better too.
If you can, design your track plan before you build your baseboards. If you want to incorporate under board point motors then you'll need to make sure that no cross supports run under where your points will be.
Quote from: NinOz on July 31, 2023, 11:21:15 AMI would recommend a track layout program.
I use Anyrail (https://www.anyrail.com/en (https://www.anyrail.com/en)) which has a nice library of track components from various manufacturers. It has PECO code80 set track as well as the code80 streamline range. Also is available free but with limitations on number of pieces of track that can be used.
Another similar track program SCARM (https://www.scarm.info/index.php (https://www.scarm.info/index.php)) is also available. It has N code80 track plan (https://scarm.info/layouts/track_plans.php?ltp=38 (https://scarm.info/layouts/track_plans.php?ltp=38)) which could be easily extended to suit your proposed baseboard size.
The PECO N Gauge Setrack Planbook is available from hobby shops in Oz and has some nice plans. Also PECO PB4 N Gauge Track Plans Book. Each costs less than $10.
One that doesn't get mentioned very often, but I used to develop my plan over an extended period, before printing out full scale and starting to build, is XtrkCAD.
for what its worth and as another novice im going with Peco code 55. Have drawn a rough plan and just going to buy some track and have a play. Sorry bit off topic Mr Bad Raven are you another refugee off RCMF :D