A bit of advice please as I`m a little confused. Are they actually designed to isolate track, and is the way round this to just solder a wire from a live track?
All of my other points are working after cleaning paint, glue and ballast, but I`m a bit stuck with the Insulfrog ones I bought without reading the description!
The track on the route that is set should be 'live' and the other route 'dead' (assuming no power feeds after the point)
It this isn't the case, you need to do some more cleaning - or stop relying on the point blades making contact by fitting a switch synchronised with the changing of the point to feed the inner rails after the point.
You do NOT want a permanently connected feed beyond the point...
Thanks for the reply, all helps.
Peco Insulfrogs are a "power routing" design, the other route is electrically disconnected on one rail.
Peco Electrofrogs are also "power routing" but not quite the same way, as what happens is the other route has both rails at the same polarity.That's why they need an isolating joiner on the frog V rail if that rail has a power feed further along.
Peco Unifrogs are NOT "power routing", both routes are wired permanently live. Great for DCC but annoying for traditional DC users who want their points to turn off the other route.
If you have Insulfrog or Electrofrog and you want the other route to remain live then a separate power feed to the track beyond is required. If you have DC then make it switchable for occasions you do want to park a loco.
Thanks for the replies chaps, I do appreciate it.
The entry rails must have the track feed to give power routing and that means the switch blades must make good contact with the relevant rail. I've found some of mine even new to be 'iffy' and need a gentle tweak with forceps to get better contact. Only the slightest curve of the end is necessary but it makes for a good contact.
I only ever clean them with a smooth fibreglass 'pen'. It's not the easiest place to clean where the blade and rail meet but worth the effort - I rarely get problems after cleaning and checking this way.
To check power feeds and other circuits quickly I bought a cheap 'n cheerful 12VDC tester from eBay for less than £4! Basically a bulb in screwdriver with a lead to a clip. It lights if there's any power and defo not if there's a bad connection.
If you don't want to switch on your controller use a 9v battery but make sure there's no alternative circuit that could give an 'on' condition - eg common return wiring.
Finally I personally think the delicate switch blades will suffer from the CDU whacking them over and need adjusting after a period.
Hope this helps, cheers Chris
Quote from: Greygreaser on March 19, 2023, 08:48:53 PM
The entry rails must have the track feed to give power routing and that means the switch blades must make good contact with the relevant rail. I've found some of mine even new to be 'iffy' and need a gentle tweak with forceps to get better contact. Only the slightest curve of the end is necessary but it makes for a good contact.
Or as suggested previously, fit a change over switch so you are not relying on the blades making good contact (if you are using point motors & a CDU most types have an inbuilt switch and it's very little extra effort to connect up)
I would agree with a regular cleaning regime, but strongly advise
against bending the blades which is more likely to cause other running issues.
Well, as is often the case in discussions on this forum, what works for some doesn't work for others.
I have Peco point motors on every point, most of them fitted with accessory switches. However, I still rely on blade contact, as the switches are used in a complex signalling system.
I have bent the blades on several points to ensure blade contact. Using care, it can be done without causing issues.
It's really just a matter of experimentation until everything is running right!
@Greygreaser (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=8822) I've never ever had any problems with blades coming loose due to use of a CDU. The only time I had a blade come loose was my own fault for trying to adjust a tiebar too forcefully.
@PLD (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=647) I have slightly adjusted/bent the tips of point blades on occasion, again no problems. Back in the 70s when some of the Peco code 80 points had no proper recess for the blade I use to bend a little kink into the stock rail to take the blade tip That made a lot of difference to prevent any flanges catching.
I fit frog polarity changeover on most points - certainly for all the live frog points on the scenic trackwork. Even some of my fiddleyard insulfrogs now have additional switching and are bridged across to make them electrically equivalent to a live frog. I plan to replace the plastic frogs on those with metal inserts when I can be bothered (I have some frog inserts purchased in readiness).