My very first train set back in the day had a Hornby OO gauge GWR Class 101 0-4-0 steam loco in it and I kinda miss it.
Does anyone do a Class 101 in N?
Ross.
(https://images.hattons.co.uk/products/R1138Loco_1046919_Qty1_1.jpg)
Dunno why they numbered it 107 - there was only 101 class loco, numbered 101.
Dredging the ol' memory (bit dark in there!) I'm pretty sure mine was numbered 101.
Ross.
Mine was blue and called Nellie :) ;)
This was based on a actual GWR engine. It was originally built as an oil fired loco.
No - it's not been done in N.
0-4-0s in N Gauge are a rare beast - I don't think there's been one modelled on a British prototype (there's been a small number of mainland Europe and Japanese ones though).
I can't imagine this ever being done RTR - I think you need to be looking at scratch building or a 3d printed body.
Steven B.
Arnold did an 0-6-0 chassis way back, you could remove the centre wheel and make it an 0-4-0
Quote from: Bealman on October 21, 2021, 09:22:26 AM
Arnold did an 0-6-0 chassis way back, you could remove the centre wheel and make it an 0-4-0
Or the ubiquitous Minitrix T3 chassis. Another one that's easy to take the centre wheels out of. The only problem with the T3 one is the Motor is mounted vertically at the back to be hidden in the cab. So it would be a bit visible in an open cab :/
There's also a Fleischmann 0-4-0, but they're harder to find.
There are three 0-4-0T locos that I can think of that may be suitable:
Tomix Percy
Minitrix Glaskasten
Ibertren Cuco
Quote from: msr on October 21, 2021, 09:54:13 AM
Tomix Percy
Minitrix Glaskasten
Ibertren Cuco
There's now also the Bachmann Percy. The Bachman 009 Rheneas may also be considering but might be too long in the wheelbase.
Steven B.
I think we had the Fleischmann 0-4-0 at our module session over last weekend. Unfortunately I only have an overhead shot - I'll see whether anyone else took a better photo.
Peter
In the early days of British N Gauge (1970s) Peco sold some white metal body kits to fit over an Arnold 0-4-0 German chassis. There was an 0-4-0 Side Tank and an 0-4-0 Peckett (possibly other types too?) both of these I remember seeing decorated in GWR livery. Until the Graham Farish Pannier Tank arrived there wasn't much else you could buy. I guess the closest ready to run model to a 101 would be a Dapol 14xx.
Quote from: Alcazar on October 21, 2021, 11:27:26 AM
I think we had the Fleischmann 0-4-0 at our module session over last weekend. Unfortunately I only have an overhead shot - I'll see whether anyone else took a better photo.
Peter
I've got one here. it's the model number 7000 one I think.
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/115/8-211021131557.jpeg)
very short wheelbase, but flatter motor
Internally though, the chassis is a lot wider than the Minitrix one (behind in 0-4-0 mode)
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/115/8-211021132746.jpeg)
For completeness there's also this Japanese 0-4-0 model from Tsugawa Yoko: https://www.yodobashi.com/product/100000001005869520/ (https://www.yodobashi.com/product/100000001005869520/) though it looks too small for this purpose.
Yes, I recently sold on a DCC converted Wills/Peco Peckett tank running on an Arnold chassis. Nice looking little locos if a bit overscale. The Tsugawa chassis is a little marvel, the reason I sold the Pekett was to fund the purchase of one of their chassis for a 3D printed Pug shell. Amazingly small and actually runs very well, especially on DCC.
Would you believe me if I told you that there's an 0-4-0 tank being developed in T gauge as an RTR model (It's actually based on the Triang Nellie)? Very early chassis prototype without coupling rods and basic 3D printed shell can be seen here, it's 17mm long over the buffers: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W0M7j4H33qs&t=6s (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W0M7j4H33qs&t=6s)
Will they be applying the magnify ray to bring it up to N scale size? :D
Wow, some fabulous answers here, thank you all!
:thankyousign:
Okay, so nobody makes one of these :(
Mind, I'm quite happy trying to design and 3D printing my own shell as long as I can find good running gear to go under it. My painting skills are as yet largely untried, so we'll see if I can make it look at least 'good enough'!
The Fleischmann motor definitely looks too wide for this project - I just don't see any good ways to easily conceal it.
There's also a vertical bar outside of the driving rods that looks a bit weird (also one on the Arnold and the Ibertren Cuco I see too). It would have to come off to get the right look and feel, but I'm not sure if it's an essential part of the mechanics, so I'm more than a bit wary about such surgery, so I'll hold these three in reserve for now.
The Minitrix 6-to-4 wheel conversions leave a pretty big gap between the wheels. Might not be truly noticeable to most observers, but I'd notice it, so I'm leaning away from that right now. Same basic issue with the Glaskasten (same chassis?).
The Tomix and Bachmann Percy's both seem to have the right arrangement of running gear, and they're modern equipment designed for kids, so I'm guessing they should be pretty robust and reliable. I'm liking those as potential donors.
The Tsugawa also looks viable, and its always really nice to hear that it "runs really well, especially on DCC" - that's a major tick mark for me!
@Capri_sam (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=6236) : Do you happen to have any photo's of the Tsugawa chassis without the body shell? Don't take it apart just for me, but if you happen to have already done so it would be interesting to see the insides of that one.
So right now I think availability, price and shipping times for donors seems to be the decider between the two Percy's and the Tsugawa. I'll let y'all know which way I leap :)
Thanks again for all your superb information!
Ross.
Hi Ross,
Not from mine I'm afraid, it's deep in my projects box awaiting painting! But Plaza japan have the raw chassis on display (and it's only £25!)
https://www.plazajapan.com/4957265140360/?setCurrencyId=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwn8SLBhAyEiwAHNTJbTCT3CQ9bgsOc9edD6ynGwazvOjYhEFZkgZ6IEsxSk31JX0oA5lvlxoCefsQAvD_BwE (https://www.plazajapan.com/4957265140360/?setCurrencyId=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwn8SLBhAyEiwAHNTJbTCT3CQ9bgsOc9edD6ynGwazvOjYhEFZkgZ6IEsxSk31JX0oA5lvlxoCefsQAvD_BwE)
Quote from: railsquid on October 21, 2021, 01:54:53 PM
Will they be applying the magnify ray to bring it up to N scale size? :D
Not something you often hear in N gauge!
N-Drive productions also offer some decent 0-4-0 chassis. He will also supply them without a motor as I wanted a smaller one to fit inside a body.
https://www.n-driveproductions.com/rangeandprices.htm (https://www.n-driveproductions.com/rangeandprices.htm)
On the Fleischmann chassis, that vertical bar holds up a frame for the slide the piston rod travels along. Feasibly that whole slide could be removed.
Something to watch for on the Tomix TTTE locos is that they made them over-scale. So I don't know if the chassis for them would be a fit.
[edit] just had a more detailed look at one of my Fleischmann 0-4-0s (ie took it to bits) and that slide bar system is rather cunning. It's actually a single plastic moulding for the vertical bar, slide and a fillet for the piston rod to go in. So it plugs into the cylinders with the piston rod and slide bar attached to it and the whole frame holds the pins for the motion into the wheels. They're not press fit or anything, they're just loose and that frame holds everything in. Sneaky sods!
I bought an Andrew Barclay saddle tank from Shapeways which fits nicely on the Tsugwa chassis.
Also theres an American Life Like? n scale 0-4-0 switcher think the chassis has been used for British models?
Cheers
Andy
I've had/got/tried both chassis.
I tried using the Minitrix 0-6-0T as an 0-4-0T but I found the wheels were too far apart to be realistic for an N-scale 0-4-0T and I really love the Arnold 0-4-0T which is now under three Adams B4 kits I have.
I also tried the Japanese chassis under a LMS Sentinel Steam shunter and it eventually siezed.
I am afraid that I need totally reliable old fashioned technology on such small chassis. So I would go German on all accounts :)
HTH
Bob
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/115/4601-221021171515.jpeg)
It had wheel diameter of 3' 8" and a 9' wheelbase. I don't think the Japanese one would look right somehow...
Rob. :no:
If you look at them in side profile, the Fleischmann 0-4-0 isn't too far off (other than the shorter wheelbase). The slide bar on it isn't quite the same as the motion on the 101 but it does have the same feature of hiding the front wheels pretty well.
With the 101 being longer you could probably even get the doors and open roof in.
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/115/8-221021181148.jpeg)
Now this is an interesting 0-4-0 chassis due to be released next year. Once the sizeable weight has been removed it looks a good starting point. I may well have to buy one to have a play.
https://railsofsheffield.com/products/oo-9-locomotive-powered-chassis?_pos=1&_sid=c7548504f&_ss=r
Both Fleischmann and Arnold make/made 0-4-0s. I've used the Arnold chassis to make industrial locos. On Kato track they handle points very well. But on peco.....
I had a bit of time to kill waiting for my GWR loco to print, so I kind of kit-bashed bits from its 3D model into a version of the 101 that would fit on the Fleischmann 0-4-0 chassis I have.
Visibly it is a little wide compared to the sleeker lines of the Hornby model, but you would be able to get the open cab of the protoype.
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/115/8-301021205155.jpeg)
If you deliberately increased the height (I based the height of mine on the photo of the prototype), you'd get a thinner look without it being a particularly big loco.
Very nice! I was contemplating doing something myself, but if you've got access to the chassis already I look forward to seeing where you go with it! :)
Ross.
Hello
I'd be interested in having a model of one if someone is selling a body? I have a Fleischman chassis somewhere...
Also I'm curious to know was the engine sent off anywhere to be evaluated? The history of this locomotive is somewhat scarce.
Rob.
Quote from: RBTKraisee on October 31, 2021, 01:10:29 AM
Very nice! I was contemplating doing something myself, but if you've got access to the chassis already I look forward to seeing where you go with it! :)
Ross.
It's a GWR tank engine I don't have, so I'll definitely be attempting it :) Now my 1366 is just about done, I've just got to print off a batch of telegraph poles and I'll give it a go and see if it works.
Seeing as the prototype went through quite a few major modifications, I'll probably use the Hornby model as a guide. Mainly because there's more than one photo of it on the internet ;)
I'll chuck the model on Thingiverse once I get it working!
If you put it on Thingyverse i MUST print it and build it!
I'm building Blagdon station and the loco was built for the Wrington vale light railway.
It was never used there but in my world it will be of course :)
Jan
Quote from: zwilnik on October 31, 2021, 10:22:34 AM
Seeing as the prototype went through quite a few major modifications, I'll probably use the Hornby model as a guide. Mainly because there's more than one photo of it on the internet ;)
I've got a feeling the Hornby model was stretched to fit the chassis they already had.
IIRC it was the chassis they used for Nellie, Polly and Connie, and the North British 0-4-0 diesel shunter in the 1960s.
While the NB shunter looked the part, Nellie et al were 20% stretched versions of the ex LSWR C14/S14 class 0-4-0 dock shunter 30588 / 30589 / 77s in the attached pictures.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LSWR_C14_class (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LSWR_C14_class)
BLIMEY O'REILLY. It looks like it could be made to fit on a T3 chassis without the centre wheels!!!
Now as a "southern" man with lots of models of Southampton Dock shunters (B4, USA, E2, Class 04, Class 07), I'd happily have one of these. You might even persuade @Dorsetmike (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=2855) to have one too :) They were around in his model era and mine.
HTH
Bob
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/115/1517-311021113306.jpeg) (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=115703)
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/115/1517-311021113344.jpeg) (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=115704)
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/115/1517-311021113522.jpeg) (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=115705)
That does look like an ideal T3 chassis candidate. Relatively tall cab and everything :)
For my mockup I matched it to the dimensions of the side photo of the original 101 to fit around the Fleischmann chassis, but there's not a lot visible on there for useful detail. I'm figuring if I use the Hornby model photos for overall shape but fit to the chassis, it should be somewhere in the region of vaguely right ;)
I have a simple drawing with some dimensions of it.
When I'm back home I'll pm it to you
QuoteYou might even persuade @Dorsetmike (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=2855) to have one too :) They were around in his model era and mine.
Nah, I've got a couple of Peco kit B4s which get employed on yard shunting and local freight, but don't have any dockside on the layout
There is a diagram of it in A Pictorial Record Of Great Western Engines Volume One. By J H Russell on page 145. The body on the Hornby model is quite accurate.
Rob.
I've done my batch of telegraph poles (link here.. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5073674 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5073674)) and I'm printing my first test fit model of the 101. See you in a few hours...
Quote from: zwilnik on October 31, 2021, 10:22:34 AM
...
Seeing as the prototype went through quite a few major modifications, I'll probably use the Hornby model as a guide. Mainly because there's more than one photo of it on the internet ;)
I'll chuck the model on Thingiverse once I get it working!
The Hornby one is what I remember fondly, so that will be perfect! I will most definitely print it if you put it on thingi! I'll then have to find me a chassis to go under it :)
Ross.
First test print didn't quite work (one side failed and the other has a definite slew, which I think is my FEP being on its way out). But enough to check the general fit (it needs a hole at the front for a little tab that sticks up from the chassis)
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/115/8-311021202140-1157221841.jpeg)
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/115/8-311021202140-115722932.jpeg)
I didn't know you did cute so well 😀👩⚕️💖
Whoops I must remember I'm talking to a bloke
Bob
Some more refinement. A little bit more length on the nose to fit the chassis, as well as some detailing. Riding a little high on the chassis due to the fitting holes not being quite right.
This print showed 2 specific problems when fitted to the chassis. Firstly, the Fleischmann square motor block isn't square all the time. The actual motor armature spins slightly proud of the casing as it goes around, so for the next print I'll be cutting away a bit more space above it.
Another issue is that the chassis is massively tail heavy. With a die cast tank loco body on top that has side tanks almost to the front made of solid metal, it's not a problem. With a lightweight resin body on it though it has a nasty habit of pulling wheelies. So I'm hollowing out the smokebox and boiler at the front so I can add lead weights.
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/115/8-021121122053.jpeg)
I need to over the print with a toothbrush, but it's now fitting and running. I'm considering hacksawing the buffers off the chassis and adding a printed buffer beam. The continental ones are a bit small anyway. The nose end is now hollow so I can add some counterweight to the motor that's hanging behind the rear axle.
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/115/8-021121160507.jpeg)
That running plate looks like it is pretty robust. Otherwise she's looking very cute.
Oh and I need to pinch myself and remember how small this loco really is.
Best
Bob
Quote from: thebrighton on October 23, 2021, 10:02:50 AM
Now this is an interesting 0-4-0 chassis due to be released next year. Once the sizeable weight has been removed it looks a good starting point. I may well have to buy one to have a play.
https://railsofsheffield.com/products/oo-9-locomotive-powered-chassis?_pos=1&_sid=c7548504f&_ss=r
Whoo! Just seen this. Anyone seen any dimensions published anywhere?
Mike
Quote from: Bob G on November 02, 2021, 04:31:07 PM
That running plate looks like it is pretty robust. Otherwise she's looking very cute.
Oh and I need to pinch myself and remember how small this loco really is.
Best
Bob
Hehe yes. It's a quirk of the chassis. I've got a 1mm thick plate over the chassis top plate and side and front skirts down to buffer beam height.
Feasibly I could lose the plate and just do the skirts, although that might be fiddly to print and would lose some of that ever so critical front end weight.
Quote from: maridunian on November 02, 2021, 04:50:11 PM
Quote from: thebrighton on October 23, 2021, 10:02:50 AM
Now this is an interesting 0-4-0 chassis due to be released next year. Once the sizeable weight has been removed it looks a good starting point. I may well have to buy one to have a play.
https://railsofsheffield.com/products/oo-9-locomotive-powered-chassis?_pos=1&_sid=c7548504f&_ss=r
Whoo! Just seen this. Anyone seen any dimensions published anywhere?
Mike
To answer my own question, this chassis is for a 009 model of George England locos Princess and Prince built for the Festiniog railway. Drivers 2' and wheelbase 4' 6", so 8mm and 18mm respectively.
Mike
Quote from: zwilnik on November 02, 2021, 05:37:37 PM
Quote from: Bob G on November 02, 2021, 04:31:07 PM
That running plate looks like it is pretty robust. Otherwise she's looking very cute.
Oh and I need to pinch myself and remember how small this loco really is.
Best
Bob
Hehe yes. It's a quirk of the chassis. I've got a 1mm thick plate over the chassis top plate and side and front skirts down to buffer beam height.
Feasibly I could lose the plate and just do the skirts, although that might be fiddly to print and would lose some of that ever so critical front end weight.
If you use the Fleischmann upper footplate uncovered and print an apron to top the bufferbeam/cylinders, you'll get that 1mm back.
Mike
Quote from: maridunian on November 02, 2021, 05:41:31 PM
Quote from: zwilnik on November 02, 2021, 05:37:37 PM
Quote from: Bob G on November 02, 2021, 04:31:07 PM
That running plate looks like it is pretty robust. Otherwise she's looking very cute.
Oh and I need to pinch myself and remember how small this loco really is.
Best
Bob
Hehe yes. It's a quirk of the chassis. I've got a 1mm thick plate over the chassis top plate and side and front skirts down to buffer beam height.
Feasibly I could lose the plate and just do the skirts, although that might be fiddly to print and would lose some of that ever so critical front end weight.
If you use the Fleischmann upper footplate uncovered and print an apron to top the bufferbeam/cylinders, you'll get that 1mm back.
Mike
it may even be worth lengthening a little to go over the buffers. I could then extend the smokebox and boiler forwards a bit more, which means more forward weight.
I wonder if Tramfabriek or Micromotor.eu offer a coreless motor upgrade for the old Fleischmann Black Anna? I've not looked. I would imagine the coreless motor would be smaller than the traditional Fleischmann motor.
I believe these old Fleischmann 0-4-0s are currently not in production so you're looking for 2nd hand (maybe they'll come back one day re-tooled to take a decoder?)
Also worth remembering the old Ibertren Cuckoo is a very similar chassis, and they do turn up quite cheap from time to time. Knurled wheels just like an old Triang loco but they run really well, the narrow gauge crowd used to use them a lot.
Quote from: ntpntpntp on November 02, 2021, 07:48:23 PM
I wonder if Tramfabriek or Micromotor.eu offer a coreless motor upgrade for the old Fleischmann Black Anna? I've not looked. I would imagine the coreless motor would be smaller than the traditional Fleischmann motor.
Indeed @Sven (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=6993) does offer that. (https://www.tramfabriek.nl/fle-7000.html)
I looked into this for my own Peckett 0-4-0 variants. Although it allows a narrower bodyshell, the motion and cylinders remain very wide, so I didn't proceed.
Mike
Quote from: maridunian on November 02, 2021, 08:45:39 PM
Quote from: ntpntpntp on November 02, 2021, 07:48:23 PM
I wonder if Tramfabriek or Micromotor.eu offer a coreless motor upgrade for the old Fleischmann Black Anna? I've not looked. I would imagine the coreless motor would be smaller than the traditional Fleischmann motor.
Indeed @Sven (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=6993) does offer that. (https://www.tramfabriek.nl/fle-7000.html)
I looked into this for my own Peckett 0-4-0 variants. Although it allows a narrower bodyshell, the motion and cylinders remain very wide, so I didn't proceed.
Mike
We were discussing it on the Zoom chat and one big advantage of the coreless motor would be the reduction in weight at the back. Given the current model's propensity to pull wheelies, balancing the weight towards the front (replacing the printed front plate with a metal one was also suggested) it would be handy.
Still working on my 101 model (I botched the initial paint job, so stripped it off and about to try again). In the meantime, What If..
What if the 101 wasn't scrapped way too soon and the GWR did its usual, "if it ain't broke, slap pannier tanks on it" approach to tank loco upgrades.. ?
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/116/8-191121113635.jpeg)
It actually looks kind of plausible :) (the added tank space ahead of the front wheels will hopefully hold enough lead shot to stop it popping wheelies too :) )
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/116/8-191121210549.jpeg)
Yeah, that does look plausible!
I still want the wheelie version myself ;)
Ross.
You are just one sick designer.
I think that is an accolade in modern speak but I'm not sure...
You're heading towards one of my preferred candidate bodies for that chassis, the GWR 1101 (https://www.railuk.info/gallery/notes/getimage.php?id=781)
Mike
Quote from: maridunian on November 20, 2021, 12:32:11 AM
You're heading towards one of my preferred candidate bodies for that chassis, the GWR 1101 (https://www.railuk.info/gallery/notes/getimage.php?id=781)
Mike
Ooh yes, that would be an obvious one and not too tricky either. I also still have two more donor chassis to play with :)
Quote from: zwilnik on November 20, 2021, 01:14:45 AM
Quote from: maridunian on November 20, 2021, 12:32:11 AM
You're heading towards one of my preferred candidate bodies for that chassis, the GWR 1101 (https://www.railuk.info/gallery/notes/getimage.php?id=781)
Mike
Ooh yes, that would be an obvious one and not too tricky either. I also still have two more donor chassis to play with :)
And this similar Avonside design would be even sweeter (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/116/2947-201121085936.jpeg)
Mike
Quote from: maridunian on November 20, 2021, 09:02:58 AM
Quote from: zwilnik on November 20, 2021, 01:14:45 AM
Quote from: maridunian on November 20, 2021, 12:32:11 AM
You're heading towards one of my preferred candidate bodies for that chassis, the GWR 1101 (https://www.railuk.info/gallery/notes/getimage.php?id=781)
Mike
Ooh yes, that would be an obvious one and not too tricky either. I also still have two more donor chassis to play with :)
And this similar Avonside design would be even sweeter (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/116/2947-201121085936.jpeg)
Mike
Definite food for thought :)
@maridunian (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=2947)
How about these as a starting point?
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/116/8-201121174912.jpeg)
Very good!
I got this far with iron age tools a few years ago, but lost my mojo!
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/116/2947-201121184230.jpeg)
Mike
I do need to add a bucketload of rivets. The flat tank sides look pretty plain without them. I'm also wondering if I have the tanks too tall relative to the boiler?
There's a drawing of the 1101 Class in http://www.gwr.org.uk/no4-coup-tanks.html. (http://www.gwr.org.uk/no4-coup-tanks.html.)
They look pretty smooth to me. Can you thin the footplate at all?
Mike
Quote from: maridunian on November 20, 2021, 06:57:28 PM
There's a drawing of the 1101 Class in http://www.gwr.org.uk/no4-coup-tanks.html. (http://www.gwr.org.uk/no4-coup-tanks.html.)
They look pretty smooth to me. Can you thin the footplate at all?
Mike
I can a little but will need to glue a big buffer beam on the front to cover the chassis. At the moment the bodies aren't cleanly fitted to the chassis so they're riding a little high.
Quote from: zwilnik on November 20, 2021, 08:19:32 PM
Quote from: maridunian on November 20, 2021, 06:57:28 PM
There's a drawing of the 1101 Class in http://www.gwr.org.uk/no4-coup-tanks.html. (http://www.gwr.org.uk/no4-coup-tanks.html.)
They look pretty smooth to me. Can you thin the footplate at all?
Mike
I can a little but will need to glue a big buffer beam on the front to cover the chassis. At the moment the bodies aren't cleanly fitted to the chassis so they're riding a little high.
Maybe just thin the edges, leaving most of the weight there? Painted black, nobody will see the rest of the thick plate.
Ross.