Hi, for a possible project can anyone give me data on the following, please?
1. Driving wheel diameter over rim AND flange.
2. Driving wheel thickness.
3. Distance between driving wheel faces.
Thanks for any help.
Hi
I've got one on the bench for my J50. Wheels are:
9.5mm over rims
11mm over flanges
2mm thick
7.5mm/8.5mm between rims (front/back)
Hope this helps
Dave
Many thanks Dave. I'm looking at a chassis for an LNER G5 0-4-4 tank loco... the wheels are just the right diameter.
Dave, what diameter are the axles, please? Also, would it be possible to let me know the overall width of the wheels on the axles, i.e. the distance between the front faces of the wheels on the axle?
Hi
The axle diameter appears to be the same as on other Farish split frame locos and is 1.1mm. I assume you know that the axles don't fit directly in the frame and run in copper blocks which sit in suitable slots in the chassis? The overall width of a pair of wheels on the axle is 11.3mm across wheel faces, and 13.5mm over crankpins.
Are you proposing to make a new chassis or modify the Jinty version? As I noted earlier I have used the Jinty chassis under a J50 but the wheel spacing is incorrect, so I'm thinking about making a new chassis using the existing wheelsets but with new frames and conrods to get the right spacing. This is new ground for me so I'm keen to hear your plans!
Dave
Cheers Dave. 1.1mm seems very small for axles! Thanks for the other info too, I hadn't realised Bachmann have used split frames for the Jinty too: does that mean there is a central insulated muff? That would be useful as I'm working with a well-known 2mm Scale modeller to look at the possibility of making an etched chassis on 2mm principles (i.e., split frame) for the N Gauge G5 0-4-4T.
The chassis could probably be designed to incorporate the existing Bachmann hornblocks that the wheels sit in, as these pick up the current and avoid the problems of wire pick-ups on a small loco.
It looks like I'll have to obtain some wheelsets (or at worst a complete Jinty!) to sort it out. Thanks gain.
Hi
There's no central muff, but each axle end has a larger section fixed over it that rotates inside the "hornblock" and provides pick up. This must be insulated from the axle.
I'm thinking of making a similar style of brass frame using the Farish hornblocks, just need to get it designed and etched with suitable rods, then work out how to mount gearing and a motor which is the bit I'm not sure how to do! We are currently in the process of moving back to the UK so once I'm there things will be much easier....I hope!
Dave