I have an analogue layout with a mainline station. I would like to occasionally run some trains pulled by two locomotives. Is this possible? I have checked the separate speeds of three GF locomotives and they are equivalent. However, these locomotives have no coupling at the front of them. Is it an easy matter to connect two locomotives so that they can be run together?
Well you've checked for reasonable speed matching and that's a start (and it is important to ensure a good match to avoid straining the mechanisms).
If the loco doesn't have a front coupling, is there provision to fit one - eg. an empty coupling pocket? If not then you'll have to consider whether you could fit such a pocket and coupling yourself?
Which locos are they? Can you post photos of the fronts?
When you say connect together, do you mean electrically, with wires?
Or mechanically with couplers....
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/88/8323-280220161607.jpeg) (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=88024)
I would like to couple the locomotives together - but there is no existing mechanism (see photo) at the front of the locos.
@kdcliff (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=8323) Ah ok so it's a loco with a leading bogie, definitely not designed to have a front coupling.
Probably your best bet is to fashion some sort of vertical hook coupling from stiff wire or brass strip and glue it to the underside of the bogie, but be aware that as the bogie isn't designed to take any "pull" it's possible that it may derail as the two locos run. I'm sure you won't be the first to have fitted such a coupling hook.
There is a precedent for having a simple hook as opposed to a standard Rapido coupling: some Union Mills locos have a vertical hook fitted on the front (similar to the hook found on some small Arnold locos)
(https://hattonsimages.blob.core.windows.net/products/61572_3135636_Qty1_1.jpg)
Many thanks for the information. I feel it is a little beyond my current capabilities to attach a 'coupling' mechanism of my own making and one that wouldn't cause any trouble as the locomotive makes it way across many points and crossovers on my layout. I may come back to it one day when I've got a spare loco that I don't mind wrecking if it goes wrong. Meantime I'll simply enjoy standard train configurations. It was just a thought...
Most recently produced steam outline locos have a front coupling or at least a housing. Speed match doesn't have to be exact but it should be reasonably close.
That is a very impressive video. Thanks for posting! :thumbsup:
Quote from: Chris Morris on February 28, 2020, 09:45:15 PM
Most recently produced steam outline locos have a front coupling or at least a housing. Speed match doesn't have to be exact but it should be reasonably close.
Huh, it's easy with kettles. Diesels are much harder as, for most, you can't tell at a glance which is the front end :bounce:
I'll go away now and have a lie down. :sorrysign:
John P
Quote from: jpendle on February 29, 2020, 01:11:17 AM
Quote from: Chris Morris on February 28, 2020, 09:45:15 PM
Most recently produced steam outline locos have a front coupling or at least a housing. Speed match doesn't have to be exact but it should be reasonably close.
Huh, it's easy with kettles. Diesels are much harder as, for most, you can't tell at a glance which is the front end :bounce:
I'll go away now and have a lie down. :sorrysign:
John P
I can tell the front of my diesels easily - its the end with no coupling and a few pipes dangling. Except for the ones I use for double heading.
Quote from: jpendle on February 29, 2020, 01:11:17 AM
Huh, it's easy with kettles. Diesels are much harder as, for most, you can't tell at a glance which is the front end
I just have a dummy class 35 and a dummy class 122 I can use for double heading in the case of diseasels or for failed diseasels being hauled by steam :)
Quote from: Chris Morris on February 28, 2020, 09:45:15 PM
Speed match doesn't have to be exact but it should be reasonably close.
For some reason I have it in my head 'tis better for the slower loco to be pushed than to be pulled but is this right please? :uneasy:
Quote from: Newportnobby on February 29, 2020, 10:29:27 AM
For some reason I have it in my head 'tis better for the slower loco to be pushed than to be pulled but is this right please? :uneasy:
Neither is at all good, but if absolutely necessary I would lead with the faster loco so that couplings are kept taught and you're lightening the load on the slower loco (which might allow it run just that little bit faster). If you lead with the slower loco and the train loco is a kettle with a front bogie then even more likelyhood that bogie won't track well as it's trying to push some weight.
Rather than trying to match loco speeds there are plenty of non working locos out there. Strip the electrical bits out and leave a free rolling loco to fill the role.
Quote from: kdcliff on February 28, 2020, 04:43:44 PM
I feel it is a little beyond my current capabilities to attach a 'coupling' mechanism of my own making
Have you thought about buying a recent bogie for say a black five? It would just screw in. You could use the coupling provided and get larger bogie wheels to boot.
Quote from: Chris Morris on February 29, 2020, 05:58:31 AM
Quote from: jpendle on February 29, 2020, 01:11:17 AM
Quote from: Chris Morris on February 28, 2020, 09:45:15 PM
Most recently produced steam outline locos have a front coupling or at least a housing. Speed match doesn't have to be exact but it should be reasonably close.
Huh, it's easy with kettles. Diesels are much harder as, for most, you can't tell at a glance which is the front end :bounce:
I'll go away now and have a lie down. :sorrysign:
John P
I can tell the front of my diesels easily - its the end with no coupling and a few pipes dangling. Except for the ones I use for double heading.
I've always understood that for diesels the end nearest the exhaust is the front - a translation of the chimney being at the front of a steam loco.
Quote from: Chris Morris on February 29, 2020, 05:58:31 AM
Quote from: jpendle on February 29, 2020, 01:11:17 AM
Quote from: Chris Morris on February 28, 2020, 09:45:15 PM
Most recently produced steam outline locos have a front coupling or at least a housing. Speed match doesn't have to be exact but it should be reasonably close.
Huh, it's easy with kettles. Diesels are much harder as, for most, you can't tell at a glance which is the front end :bounce:
I'll go away now and have a lie down. :sorrysign:
John P
I can tell the front of my diesels easily - its the end with no coupling and a few pipes dangling. Except for the ones I use for double heading.
That's like my CL68's. I use a pair straight out of the box to 'top & tail' a couple of flask wagons. Course that means that if the one at the front is running forwards then the one at the back has to run backwards and vice versa :confusedsign:
It's a good job I cheat and use my Z21 to do this ;D
John P
Quote from: RailGooner on February 29, 2020, 02:01:56 PM
I've always understood that for diesels the end nearest the exhaust is the front - a translation of the chimney being at the front of a steam loco.
I would consider the "number 1 end" to be the front, certainly from a DCC point of view.
According to the mid 60s operating manuals I have for BR classes 25, 45, and 47 the position of the exhaust varies. For the 25 and 25 it's near the middle, for the 47 it's nearer number 2 end.
Conveniently the majority of the European diesels and electrics I run in N have the ends marked 1 and 2 near the cab door steps.
Quote from: ntpntpntp on February 29, 2020, 03:17:43 PM
Quote from: RailGooner on February 29, 2020, 02:01:56 PM
I've always understood that for diesels the end nearest the exhaust is the front - a translation of the chimney being at the front of a steam loco.
I would consider the "number 1 end" to be the front...
As would I. The problem I find with that method though is that, apart from my Class 68 locos, none of my UK locos have the cabs numbered. :confused2:
Many thanks to all of you for contributing to this subject. I am quite a novice modeller: I was very keen when young and only decided to have another go at the hobby three years ago. This is my first use of the forum and it has been successful!
After thinking further about my requirement to run an occasional (steam) double-header on the layout I realised that I had a couple of Dapol 4-6-0 locomotives and one had a coupling at the front. I have tested these today on the layout and they work together very well. So I am a happy modeller again and can run different train configurations through my mainline station.
To tell some tell signs the number 1 end of a diesel is the end nearest the circular roof fitted grille. I've seen several classes inside cabs with a black stenciled no. 1 end painted above the driver ' s head in the can above the windows then looked to the roof for the grille. Maybe worth checking loco books on individual classes for detailing differences. The only part is if a loco is vacuum only fitted in the past it would be incapable of working stock that runs today