I've got a few projects on the go at the moment, and in the not too distant future, colour/lacquer will need to be applied. I use Halfords rattle cans, which I have been very happy with as regards both finish and colour.
The issue is that they say the cans should be used in warm, dry weather. I do my spraying in my workshop which is an old stable. It's relatively draft free, but has no heating.
Has anyone got any pointers/tips/solutions to this issue to allow me to continue projects. I really can't afford to wait until March before progressing.
:wave:
Cover the dining room table with polythene sheet and then a decent thick tablecloth.
Whack the heating up to 26°
Do all your spraying and you should be far enough away from the kitchen to make it there, enjoy a decent cuppa and get back before it's ready for another coat!
Unless of course your good lady is like mine!!! Get yourself a space heater and keep the temperature about 15°-20° and your onto a winner
Perhaps should have added the following:
My wife has a chronic respiratory problem. If I wish to use a spray deodarant or after-shave I have to stand outside the back door and apply it, failure to do so results in a massive coughing attack followed by a world class bollocking. Hence the back door way smells equally of Hai-Karate and Brut (ah how we miss Henry)!
So applying spray of any sort indoors would result in a divorce (which would ironically clear the road-block, no, no, think positive).
:hmmm:
:idea: How about a tent, erected in the workshop. The tent MUST be flame retardant. A canvas tent would be ideal. Then you heat the small (ish) volume of the tent only. Could work(?). :hmmm:
Or send SWMBO out for the day ;)
Quote from: RailGooner on November 18, 2019, 11:26:42 PM
:idea: How about a tent, erected in the workshop. The tent MUST be flame retardant. A canvas tent would be ideal. Then you heat the small (ish) volume of the tent only. Could work(?). :hmmm:
Yeah, about that. I can barely get in my own workshop, erecting a tent may prove problematic, but I do like the concept.
Quote from: stevewalker on November 18, 2019, 11:40:41 PM
Or send SWMBO out for the day ;)
It's not worth dying over. (Her or me!)
Quote from: emjaybee on November 18, 2019, 10:48:21 PM
... they say the cans should be used in warm, dry weather ...
:wave:
I can't quite grasp this - Halfords are a UK company, right? Do they expect you to only use the cans three days out of the year? Do a test run and see what happens. I can't quite believe that the paint is so sensitive that it won't work in Britain? :confusedsign: :confusedsign: If that really is the case get a refund and find something else. I could understand the warning if you were resurfacing the Hubble space telescope, but really? ???
The temperature relates to can pressure, obviously too cold and the paint will clog the spray nozzle and splatter.
It mostly refers to the colour coats as they produce no sheen if applied in cold conditions.
The disclaimers are to protect Mr Neal and his company from people attempting to sue his business because the colour wasnt perfect.
It was in the press a couple of years ago some lady smashed the back of her Peugeot up and her husband decided to try to fix it himself. The panel looked like it had been beaten with a rock and he bought 10 cans of Halfords version of the paint colour. Naturally it didn't match but most probably because this monkey didn't know what he was doing. He then tried to sue Halfords for selling inferior products and ruining his car!!!
@emjaybee (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=5604) have you looked at the mini spraybooths?? I have one with the extract to fresh air and they do work very well. Sub £100 and Santas not far off coming if the family wanted to get you something you really need ????
Quote from: exmouthcraig on November 19, 2019, 07:22:29 AM
The temperature relates to can pressure, obviously too cold and the paint will clog the spray nozzle and splatter.
It mostly refers to the colour coats as they produce no sheen if applied in cold conditions.
The disclaimers are to protect Mr Neal and his company from people attempting to sue his business because the colour wasnt perfect.
It was in the press a couple of years ago some lady smashed the back of her Peugeot up and her husband decided to try to fix it himself. The panel looked like it had been beaten with a rock and he bought 10 cans of Halfords version of the paint colour. Naturally it didn't match but most probably because this monkey didn't know what he was doing. He then tried to sue Halfords for selling inferior products and ruining his car!!!
Thanks for the explanation. Did the lady smash the car up because she spilled coffee in her lap and then sued because there wasn't a warning on the cup that it was hot?
Undoubtedly. Packaging has to be so big now just to make sure all the legal stuff gets applied!!!
Crazy world we live in!!
Maybe if some forum members in sunny places around the world like I dont know, California, could put us up for a few days over winter we could come to sunnier warmer climes and do all of our painting in perfect conditions :bounce:
I'd just go out in backyard and spray the bloody thing.
It's N gauge, I don't think you're gonna cause climate change.
I'd make sure the wind was right and no white shirts and sheets hanging on the line next door though ;D
Thought you were going to offer your backyard then George :D
I wouldnt say no to another Christmas in Oz!! Might even bring Mrs EC with me!!!
Just say the word, mate! :beers:
Applying paint in sub-optimal temperatures can result in an effect known as blooming (https://www.hmgpaint.com/knowledge/troubleshooting/116/blooming-blushing). Blooming is likely to occur as the paint dries - so all methods of paint application are susceptible.
On a relatively smooth large surface like a car body panel, one can polish out the blooming. On a small surface like an N model, with lots of contour changes and detail... I'd rather avoid blooming in the first place. Perhaps do a test - paint in the workshop and remove to a warmer environment while the paint cures(?).
The tent idea I posted earlier, came to mind from an experience when once deployed in an air-conditioned 10 man tent. One chap found it too cold, so he erected a solo tent within the 10 man tent.
Quote from: RailGooner on November 19, 2019, 08:14:39 AM
The tent idea I posted earlier, came to mind from an experience when once deployed in an air-conditioned 10 man tent. One chap found it too cold, so he erected a solo tent within the 10 man tent.
i'd be two tents to go to sleep if I did that. I'd be worried one of my tents would be a past tense tent before morning. :D
I asked a similar question in August
https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=46151.msg583172#msg583172 (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=46151.msg583172#msg583172)
I found Halfords paints quite tolerant of humidity, my problem seems to have been being rather impatient as regards drying times.
I've found humidity to be more of a problem than temperature - spraying outdoors (aerosol or airbrush) on a humid day can lead to poorer paint finishes than cold temperatures in my experience.
I've quite happily taken a warm model, with warm aerosol paint outside in near freezing temperatures, sprayed an undercoat and then brought everything back inside to dry without any problems.
Make sure the aerosol and model are warm (i.e. keep them in the house), and that you've given the paint a good mix/shake. Once you've done that, shake/mix it some more. Take the paint and model to your shed and paint.
Don't leave the model in the cold to dry. If you can't have it in the house then make a warm box for the shed - a cardboard box with a few hot water bottles or a seed tray heater will give it a nice cosy environment for the paint to go off.
Steven B
Hi emjaybee,
Steven B beat me to it. Agreed, as in I reckon as long as the paint can and what your painting are room temperature it won't matter where you do it. Drying time is the problem but Steven B has a great solution. If not, it tends not to stink so much after a few minutes so you might be able to sneak it back in to a ventilated room somewhere away from your good lady.
Cheers weave :beers:
Heating the paint makes the biggest difference IMO. I've been spraying quite a bit lately with Halfords cans, and I just put the can in a jug of warm water for 10 minutes before hand, if the can is warm to the touch there's a marked improvement in the viscosity of the paint, which tends to come out a bit thick if you do it in the cold.
If you take a warm model outside to spray I'd be worried about condensation forming, I leave the model in the cold, and haven't had any problems.
That said I bought some of the Halfords enamel sprays and they're proving quite poor, can't decide if they're just a bit rubbish or if that's temperature related!
I agree with @njee20 (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=1147) heat the can in hot water. To keep the model warm before and after spraying, line a cardboard box with kitchen foil shiny side out, cut a hole in the top and shine a desk lamp through the hole. This method was recommended to me when I had problems resin casting due to the cold and damp.
Geoff
May be that was the problem I had with the Humbrol cans i.e. too cold. I will give the warm water a go next time.
Many thanks
Paddy
The problems I've found with any spray cans in temperatures below 20c is that clear varnish (any finish) will bloom as mentioned before, it will look hazy. Colours will dry incorrectly giving an orange peel finish i.e bumpy.
Just my experience, learning the hard way.
Been a busy day, so just getting back to it.
Thanks for all the info, some good ideas there. I'll go with the warming up the rattle can prior to use and then into a 'warm' drying box in the workshop.
I'll have to give it a go on a trial piece. The next item in the queue is the 40T bogie hopper wagon with the rivets, and I really DO NOT want to screw that up.
I'll keep you all posted when I get some results.
Thanks again for allthe feedback.
Blooming is mostly caused by moisture in the atmosphere. Cold damp winter days are the worst for spraying varnish. Moisture in the air gets caught in the spray and makes it go cloudy as it dries. I do a lot of wargames modelling and I have had more than one nice model ruined because I was impatient and rushed to get it varnished rather than waiting for a properly dry day.
Halfords lacquer is fairly tolerant but if you do not want to wait for warmer weather, at least wait until it is a dry clear day.
I have a 250watt heat lamp on order, the plan is to fit it in the angle poise lamp that hangs down over my work bench. I'm hoping it'll provide a warm 'envelope' over the work area whilst I spray from a warmed can onto the model.
Any feedback on this theory is welcome.
@Karhedron (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=207) where have you been bloke, I have seen anything from you in a while. I hope all is good. Thanks for the info.
Quote from: emjaybee on November 24, 2019, 11:04:33 PM
@Karhedron (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=207) where have you been bloke, I have seen anything from you in a while. I hope all is good. Thanks for the info.
I have just been busy with family stuff mostly. The kids are growing up so more time spent with them and taking them to their various activities. I don't really mind, they are growing up so fast I don't want to miss stuff. The trains will always be there waiting to come out of their boxes but they will only be young once.
On a slightly less positive note, my mother-in-law moved to be near us about 3 years ago but her health took a turn for the worse last year so that is another priority call on our time.
I have been spending some time on Warhammer modelling lately as the 2 boys are really into this now. Here is my latest creation! Not really the sort of thing to have stomping around on my GWR BLT (unless I am modelling War of the Worlds or something :D ).
(http://image.bolterandchainsword.com/uploads/gallery/album_14752/gallery_82363_14752_565785.jpg)
Ah yes, life gets in the way of so much.
I don't know what the model is, but it's pretty darned impressive.
Quote from: emjaybee on November 24, 2019, 11:04:33 PM
I have a 250watt heat lamp on order, the plan is to fit it in the angle poise lamp that hangs down over my work bench. I'm hoping it'll provide a warm 'envelope' over the work area whilst I spray from a warmed can onto the model.
Any feedback on this theory is welcome.
That
should work (I think). The crucial point is not so much the amount of moisture in the air but how saturated it is. Cold air can hold less moisture so tends to be closer to its saturation point. This is why moisture condenses onto windows etc at night when temperature drops.
Creating a warm pocket of air around your spraying area will decrease the percentage by which the air is saturated. This will make it less likely that the moisture in the air will condense out in the stream of varnish.
Please note that this is all theoretical. I would test it on something expendable first to be on the safe side.
Thanks for the feedback, I'll try it out on something less crucial than the hopper wagon that I'm decaling with a gazillion rivets!
Ok!
So today I thought I would test a method that would allow me to spray in the cool/cold weather were having.
The aim was to test two things.
Firstly, how the spray goes over the Railtec decal rivets.
Secondly, and more importantly, if I can get the same good spray results that I got in warm weather.
Taking on board suggestions from fellow forum members this is my process.
The spray can was stood in hand hot water for a good ten minutes. Whilst this was warming the test piece was placed under one of my drying covers and placed in the spray booth (cardboard box) with a 250w heat lamp about a foot away. The idea being to warm the workpiece up and create an 'envelope' of warm air around it.
Now the can was nice and warm, shake well and spray as normal keeping the workpiece in the warm air 'envelope'.
Once done, the workpiece was put back under the drying cover and back in front of the heat lamp.
The lamp seems to make the air inside the cover nice and warm without a hot spot.
This is the end result.
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/85/5604-141219224123.jpeg)
It's got good even, fine coverage, even matt finish and no 'bloom'. Very pleased with the result so I'll attempt a similar thing tomorrow with the wagon.
Wish me luck!
Nicely done. :thumbsup:
They look spot on Mike :claphappy:
Hopefully today goes well, I'll definitely be treating myself to some of these Railtec rivets.
These results are just pure rattle cans rather then airbrush????
A mini greenhouse costs about £15 and with the addition of a small heater you can warm up the inside along with your spay can and it also works as a spray booth. Packs away easily when you have finished with it.
Gutted.
I don't know how else to put it.
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/85/5604-151219224632.jpeg) (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=85154)
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/85/5604-151219224706.jpeg) (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=85155)
It seemed to be going okay, a warm environment, just warm in the drying cover. Same as yesterday. Results are as you see.
It was only after that I think I realised what the problem is. Railtec suggest that you put the decals on a gloss surface, this we all know. Trouble is, the grey I laid on today was grey primer, over the gloss lacquer. I think this is what caused the fractured/wrecked paint. So, it's back to the drawing board, off come the 100's of rivets and it's going to have to have a damn good sanding prior to any more work.
I'm going to have to do some more experimental tests before I head into the spray booth with these wagons again.
If anyone has a different take on what may have caused this please let me know.
I'll keep you posted.
:'(
Quote from: exmouthcraig on December 15, 2019, 08:34:47 AM
They look spot on Mike :claphappy:
Hopefully today goes well, I'll definitely be treating myself to some of these Railtec rivets.
These results are just pure rattle cans rather then airbrush????
Yes, all my spraying is Halfords (mainly) rattle cans. I don't think this problem was the paint, I think this was a procedural issue.
:censored: :censored: :censored: :censored: :censored:
That's devastating Mike if your going to have to start again!!!!!!!
I totally agree with the reasons behind the paint, but I wouldnt be too quick to start tearing it all apart.
I'd be tempted to cut a square hole from the lid of a peco wagon box to a mil narrower then the gap between the rivets. Tape that to the wagon and using a fibreglass pencil rub the paint down, do 1 panel at a time, the lid will allow the pencil to rub the whole panel without taking the rivets off.
Once the crazing has been flatted I'd prime again and see what happens.
The rivets weren't glossed so only primer on them. It's got to be worth a punt ???
I may try that. It's actually not that daunting to sand all the rivets and primer back. I think it may actually be quicker in the long run to sand back and restart. I've go to look again at the SR Leader project on here, @AR (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=5545) seemed to lay the rivets over primer and it seemed to work for them. I'm going to have a practice putting them on over matt primer and see how much they can be moved when you first lay them on.
Oh well, :poop: happens.
Bloody cross with myself that primer over gloss lacquer must be the only combination of my cans that I haven't tested out.
I know the pain Michael, especially when you've tested and trialled.
On the next one try following the decals with a light covering of the same gloss lacquer as the base. When dry and hardened, wash briefly with cold water. When dry, apply a very light covering of base colour, not primer - very light, like just a dusting, a single pass and if you don't get a solid covering that's a good thing. If that covering is light enough it'll be touch dry in seconds - but obviously don't touch! After 30 minutes, repeat, cycle, repeat, until you've got a reasonable solid covering - 3-4 passes should do it. Let that dry and harden for 24 hours before continuing.
It would appear that the primer has reacted with the varnish, try using a light coat Precision Paints paint stripper and see if it removes the primer only. If not strip the model with PP paint stripper. I would always use paint from the same manufacturer and the same type, i.e., enamel or acrylic.
Geoff
Just wondering if you were mixing paint mediums. The only time I had very similar results was when I sprayed acrylic over enamel and it took 2-3 disasters to suss out that was the issue. Enamel over acrylic has never been a problem.
What a pain, looks like acrylic paint (the Halfords primer) over enamel. The other way around should be ok, but I'd be very cautious doing it that way. I also trashed some finished models with acrylic varnish before I realised it was a problem.
Edit: Geoff and Gareth said the same thing whilst I was waiting to hit save! :doh:
@RailGooner (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=5427) the grey is my base colour, grey primer is spot on for LMS grey.
@geoffc (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=2819), @thebrighton (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=943), @njee20 (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=1147), all the paint is acrylic. I'm aware of the issues regarding mixing paint types which is why I've been careful to only use acrylic. The gloss lacquer was laid on weeks ago. The model has also not been touched by human hands since it was washed back then, gloves hands only.
I think if I use paint stripper it'll take off all the rivets, and potentially the filler used on the body to reshape it.
It was Halfords acrylic primer over a acrylic gloss lacquer, which was from Halfords although NOT Halfords branded.
My usual paint method is:
Two light coats Halfords grey primer.
Two light coats acrylic gloss lacquer. (From Halfords, not Halfords branded)
Decals.
Two light coats acrylic satin lacquer. (From Halfords, not Halfords branded)
That has given me no issues over a dozen wagons. My gut feel is the problem is primer over gloss lacquer.
I'll be trying a load of test pieces; a, to try to replicate the problem, b, to try to find a solution.
If I can get the decals to apply successfully over the grey primer I shouldn't have a problem. @AR (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=5545) did it that way on his Leader project. I'd like to ask him, but he hasn't been on the forum for two months.
Thanks for the feedback, keep it coming.
:thumbsup:
Hi
I've sprayed enamel over acrylic and acrylic over enamel without any issues. The key is how long you leave the previous paint to dry. I tend to leave for at least a couple of days.
Cheers
Paul
Quote from: PaulCheffus on December 16, 2019, 10:23:58 AM
Hi
I've sprayed enamel over acrylic and acrylic over enamel without any issues. The key is how long you leave the previous paint to dry. I tend to leave for at least a couple of days.
Cheers
Paul
That's my understanding also. This is acrylic over acrylic with about four weeks between gloss lacquer and grey primer.
Quote from: emjaybee on December 16, 2019, 10:19:14 AM
..
My usual paint method is:
Two light coats Halfords grey primer.
Two light coats acrylic gloss lacquer. (From Halfords, not Halfords branded)
Decals.
Two light coats acrylic satin lacquer. (From Halfords, not Halfords branded)
That has given me no issues over a dozen wagons. My gut feel is the problem is primer over gloss lacquer.
...
That seems a sound process. Can you confirm you followed that process with the problem wagon, or did you omit the
satin lacquer step?
I would expect that applying that process followed by very light coverings (per my previous post) of your primer should yield a satisfactory result.
Personally I will only ever cover the base model with primer and never cover a colour with primer. I've always followed that as a rule. I can't recall when/why I adopted that (
probably when I started using acid-etch primers,) but it's never let me down so I've never reviewed it. At times I've been tempted, finding like you that my primer is a perfect match for the colour I need. I think what you're proving here is what we all know already: what works for one ain't necessarily going to work all. :confused2:
Thinking about it I don't think I've ever sprayed primer over gloss. I can't remember the last time I used gloss, I always give my models a coat of Johnsons Klear to help transfers. I suppose rivet transfers are one of those exceptions where you apply then early on rather than towards the end of a build like normal transfers.
Hi Mike - just spotted this. Commiserations - you must feel awful.
I'd press on rather than going back. If you start stripping with solvents, your filler might also be affected.
Careful rubbing down, avoiding the rivets is one way to go.
Personally, I'd be tempted to let the whole thing dry out for a week or more, then try filling the crazy-paving cracks with something water-based, either a very fine filler (Games Workshop Green Stuff seems to be water based) or multiple applications of brush-applied, water-thinned, artist-type acrylic paint. Rubbing down should hopefully then give you a flat surface.
If that works without detonating new unknown-unknown chemistries, you're where you wanted to be, otherwise you're not much worse-off than you are currently.
You'll be worried I'm sure about future coats of paint, decaling and varnishing. Once again water-based artist paints and varnishes would be my get-out-of-jail strategy.
Thanks for sharing this salutary tale - we've all done something similar, if not on a beautifully hand-crafted, unique model.
Mike
Quote@Chuffington
QuoteA mini greenhouse costs about £15 and with the addition of a small heater you can warm up the inside along with your spay can and it also works as a spray booth. Packs away easily when you have finished with it.
Sounds interesting. Can you give us an example please?
Quote from: Simon D. on December 16, 2019, 01:16:29 PM
Quote@Chuffington
QuoteA mini greenhouse costs about £15 and with the addition of a small heater you can warm up the inside along with your spay can and it also works as a spray booth. Packs away easily when you have finished with it.
Sounds interesting. Can you give us an example please?
Seems as though they are a bit cheaper than I thought !
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pvc-2-Tier-Home-Plant-Greenhouse-Garden-Cover-Plants-Flowers-Mini-Garden-Cov-J7L/312890143600?epid=13032104667&hash=item48d9b4b370:g:AMIAAOSwfzJd9QO5 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pvc-2-Tier-Home-Plant-Greenhouse-Garden-Cover-Plants-Flowers-Mini-Garden-Cov-J7L/312890143600?epid=13032104667&hash=item48d9b4b370:g:AMIAAOSwfzJd9QO5)
Quote from: Chuffington on December 16, 2019, 03:51:24 PM
..
Seems as though they are a bit cheaper than I thought !
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pvc-2-Tier-Home-Plant-Greenhouse-Garden-Cover-Plants-Flowers-Mini-Garden-Cov-J7L/312890143600?epid=13032104667&hash=item48d9b4b370:g:AMIAAOSwfzJd9QO5 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pvc-2-Tier-Home-Plant-Greenhouse-Garden-Cover-Plants-Flowers-Mini-Garden-Cov-J7L/312890143600?epid=13032104667&hash=item48d9b4b370:g:AMIAAOSwfzJd9QO5)
I like it, but MBH is going to hate it! :D
@RailGooner (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=5427) my usual paint regime is:
grey primer
grey primer
gloss lacquer
gloss lacquer
decals
satin lacquer
On this item it WOULD have been:
gloss lacquer
decals (rivets)
grey primer
grey primer
gloss lacquer
gloss lacquer
decals
satin lacquer
I have had a couple of PM's from AR, and he has confirmed that he laid the decal rivets onto the grey primer, so I think that will probably be the avenue I go down once I've established the cause of the problem.
@maridunian (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=2947) I shall have a go at rectifying the issue without a full sand-back, but it'll have to be after Christmas now.
I'll probably try to sand the effective area back first and if that isn't feasable I'll try to perhaps fill the 'crazing'.
Thanks for the support.
The solvent in the primer has partly dissolved the gloss lacquer. The primer and lacquer will have mixed somewhat at their interface before they each set (at different rates, hence the shrinkage). I'd avoid using any products containing a solvent related to either the laquer or primer in subsequent layers on this model as the problem could recur.
Good luck!
Mike
Quote from: maridunian on December 17, 2019, 08:08:02 AM
The solvent in the primer has partly dissolved the gloss lacquer. The primer and lacquer will have mixed somewhat at their interface before they each set (at different rates, hence the shrinkage). I'd avoid using any products containing a solvent related to either the laquer or primer in subsequent layers on this model as the problem could recur.
Good luck!
Mike
Both the gloss lacquer and the primer are acrylic.
The lacquer was laid on over a month before I did the primer.
We'll get there.
:thumbsup:
@Chuffington (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=6746)
QuoteSeems as though they are a bit cheaper than I thought !
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pvc-2-Tier-Home-Plant-Greenhouse-Garden-Cover-Plants-Flowers-Mini-Garden-Cov-J7L/312890143600?epid=13032104667&hash=item48d9b4b370:g:AMIAAOSwfzJd9QO5 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pvc-2-Tier-Home-Plant-Greenhouse-Garden-Cover-Plants-Flowers-Mini-Garden-Cov-J7L/312890143600?epid=13032104667&hash=item48d9b4b370:g:AMIAAOSwfzJd9QO5)
Many thanks. Ordered one!
Quote from: RailGooner on November 19, 2019, 08:14:39 AM
Applying paint in sub-optimal temperatures can result in an effect known as blooming (https://www.hmgpaint.com/knowledge/troubleshooting/116/blooming-blushing). Blooming is likely to occur as the paint dries - so all methods of paint application are susceptible.
On a relatively smooth large surface like a car body panel, one can polish out the blooming. On a small surface like an N model, with lots of contour changes and detail... I'd rather avoid blooming in the first place. Perhaps do a test - paint in the workshop and remove to a warmer environment while the paint cures(?).
The tent idea I posted earlier, came to mind from an experience when once deployed in an air-conditioned 10 man tent. One chap found it too cold, so he erected a solo tent within the 10 man tent.
Aircon tent!!!!?????? Which army were you in? I must have been in the wrong one. :D :laughabovepost:
Quote from: David Asquith on December 17, 2019, 01:02:28 PM
Quote from: RailGooner on November 19, 2019, 08:14:39 AM
Applying paint in sub-optimal temperatures can result in an effect known as blooming (https://www.hmgpaint.com/knowledge/troubleshooting/116/blooming-blushing). Blooming is likely to occur as the paint dries - so all methods of paint application are susceptible.
On a relatively smooth large surface like a car body panel, one can polish out the blooming. On a small surface like an N model, with lots of contour changes and detail... I'd rather avoid blooming in the first place. Perhaps do a test - paint in the workshop and remove to a warmer environment while the paint cures(?).
The tent idea I posted earlier, came to mind from an experience when once deployed in an air-conditioned 10 man tent. One chap found it too cold, so he erected a solo tent within the 10 man tent.
Aircon tent!!!!?????? Which army were you in? I must have been in the wrong one. :D :laughabovepost:
RAF, living in a tented village built by US Army Engineers at Incirlik Air Base home of the US Air Force's 39th Air Base Wing.
:sorrysign: :offtopicsign:
This was between the two Gulf Wars. Tuesday thru Sunday, Allied Air Forces would fly sorties over Northern Iraq: enforcing the no fly zone; drop humanitarian aid to the Kurds; recce Saddam's forces and repel those moving against the Kurds. Our Turkish hosts banned us from flying on Mondays. As a NATO partner and our hosts, Turkey had access to the recce material. That recce material also showed where the Kurds were. On Mondays, the Turkish Air Force would fly missions to bomb the Kurds!
It's a mad, mad, mad, mad world. :(
It certainly is. I suppose if you were on a US base there were plenty of coke machines around ;D
Oh yes. There was a full Commissary, a Dairy Queen, a Popeye's, video rental, pizza, etc. I was happy as I could get chilli dogs and Twinkies. As part of the Forces Covenant the US Gov promises that service personnel will be able to buy any US made goods anywhere in the world for the same price as sold on US soil, or some such.
Quote from: emjaybee on December 16, 2019, 10:19:39 PM
@RailGooner (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=5427) my usual paint regime is:
grey primer
grey primer
gloss lacquer
gloss lacquer
decals
satin lacquer
On this item it WOULD have been:
gloss lacquer
decals (rivets)
grey primer
grey primer
gloss lacquer
gloss lacquer
decals
satin lacquer
I have had a couple of PM's from AR, and he has confirmed that he laid the decal rivets onto the grey primer, so I think that will probably be the avenue I go down once I've established the cause of the problem.
Just a thought what was the base model before the application of the gloss lacquer layer? Assume it was unpainted but if not maybe there might have been a reaction at that stage?
Quote from: Fardap on December 18, 2019, 04:39:42 PM
Quote from: emjaybee on December 16, 2019, 10:19:39 PM
@RailGooner (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=5427) my usual paint regime is:
grey primer
grey primer
gloss lacquer
gloss lacquer
decals
satin lacquer
On this item it WOULD have been:
gloss lacquer
decals (rivets)
grey primer
grey primer
gloss lacquer
gloss lacquer
decals
satin lacquer
I have had a couple of PM's from AR, and he has confirmed that he laid the decal rivets onto the grey primer, so I think that will probably be the avenue I go down once I've established the cause of the problem.
Just a thought what was the base model before the application of the gloss lacquer layer? Assume it was unpainted but if not maybe there might have been a reaction at that stage?
A fair point.
It had been filled, sanded etc., and it had a coat of grey primer, before more filling, sanding and then a gloss lacquer prior to decal rivets.
Everything prior to the recent coat of primer was in the order that I've tested those products in with no problems.