Having recently had some fun building four NGS vans, I thought I'd move on to the Warwell kits I'd bought.
The vans were pretty good kits, they fit together quite well, any flash was easily distinguishable from the moulding, and all in all went together with minor fettling.
The Warwell is a different story unfortunately. They don't have a 'positive' location for the side-to-floor joint, and with the excess flash, I've had a hard time locating the sides on the floor. This, coupled with a slightly concave floor moulding, and slightly concave side moulding has meant it's been an absolute sod to get the sides to locate in a satisfactory way. Having established that I couldn't glue the side in one hit, I tried locating one end and then progressively glueing my way down the side. Half way down it was obvious that the original alignment was out and I unglued it and started again. I've tried to pull the curve out of the top deck as I've gone along. Two sides on and the deck is flat. Unfortunately, each side is slightly bowed, so from above it looks curved. The side-to-floor joint is not neat, so I suspect it'll look pretty grim once painted.
The bogies are the next issue. Following the instructions means you have to shim the bogies down by about 2mm. Even then they don't sit well. The NEM pocket on the bogie wants to rub on the buffer beam, so I'm torn between shimming the bogie further, which may mean the deck looks high, or thinning the buffer beam, which may mean it looks odd.
I've another of these kits, and I was thinking of getting more. I may dump this one and see if the other is any better.
Has anyone else got any experience of these kits, and/or any suggestions that I may have overlooked? Also, how old is this kit?
Yours,
Naffed off of Hook Norton.
:(
Quote from: emjaybee on July 28, 2019, 12:52:02 PMI've another of these kits,
Didn't you have two more - or was that the weather?
:P
The Warwell is the old Parkwood Models kit; I bought the first of mine about 10 years ago and I'm currently part way though retro fitting them with the newer (correct) bogies.
From memory they weren't the easiest to put together; I think I started gluing in the middle. The slope of the deck should fit nicely against the wagon sides. I vaguely remember there being a sweet spot where the chamfer on the wagon floor sits nicely against the chamfer of the sides. Finding it was the difficult bit!
Steven B
Quote from: Steven B on July 29, 2019, 09:31:19 AM
The Warwell is the old Parkwood Models kit; I bought the first of mine about 10 years ago and I'm currently part way though retro fitting them with the newer (correct) bogies.
From memory they weren't the easiest to put together; I think I started gluing in the middle. The slope of the deck should fit nicely against the wagon sides. I vaguely remember there being a sweet spot where the chamfer on the wagon floor sits nicely against the chamfer of the sides. Finding it was the difficult bit!
Steven B
Thanks for the info. The fact that it's an old Parkwood kit explains a lot. As I was building it, it kind of felt like none of the bits were designed for each other. The bogies don't fit at all well, but if they're NGS bogies retrofitted to a Parkwood kit with NEM couplers on the bogies it's no surprise that it feels like a dogs breakfast.
I think I'm going to hold off progress on the first kit and start again with the second, perhaps also starting the glueing from the middle.
You say you're fitting the correct bogies, which ones would they be, and what did they originally come with?
Thanks for the reply, I was starting to think I was barking up the wrong tree.
:thumbsup:
Quote from: emjaybee on July 29, 2019, 09:51:11 AM
You say you're fitting the correct bogies, which ones would they be, and what did they originally come with?
Hi
They didn't originally come with bogies you had to source your own. From memory they were American bogies that were suggested.
Cheers
Paul
As Paul says, the kits under Parkwood ownership did not come with any bogies. I think I used modified Y25s. I've since bought a job lot of Gloucester-GPS22 from the Society to upgrade my Warwells and scratch built warflats.
Steven B.
Quote from: PaulCheffus on July 29, 2019, 11:38:51 AM
They didn't originally come with bogies you had to source your own. From memory they were American bogies that were suggested.
Cheers
Paul
I started mine about fifteen years ago, and finally finished it earlier this year. It sits on a pair of American MicroTrains bogies. It's not so much a kit as a scratchbuilding aid, but worth the effort I think.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Longframlington/i-rHLF93n/0/c3edeec2/L/DSCN2532-L.jpg)
Richard
looking realistic richard. chris
Quote from: belstone on July 29, 2019, 12:15:06 PM
It's not so much a kit as a scratchbuilding aid,...
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Longframlington/i-rHLF93n/0/c3edeec2/L/DSCN2532-L.jpg)
Richard
Hmm, you're not wrong!
A pretty good job you've made of it. How did you go about attaching the sides to the bed?
I too found this kit difficult and it has put me off wagon kits, just need a rtr version ready for the Hunslett shutter!
The original Warwell Warflat kits were designed to use the old Farish freight bogie, but you could use the Bachmann USA freight car trucks from the old time range, with the locating pin or truck would have to be altered to suit. I tried once and it went Ok, the NGS bogies require the mounting to be altered for them to look right, and yes we did not supply bogies buffers or Peco chassis in the kits, due to Peco refusing to supply any chassis in trade quantity with cash UP FRONT!!, and no reason given. This policy migrated on to the other kits in the Parkwood range when they came on line, as sometimes you could acquire the chassis or bogies second hand at a fraction of the RRP.
Quote from: sg on July 29, 2019, 10:18:24 PM
I too found this kit difficult and it has put me off wagon kits, just need a rtr version ready for the Hunslett shutter!
Don't give up on the NGS kits. I've recently made some wagon kits and they've come out quite nicely, proving that you don't need to be a modelmaking genius to get a good result. This particular kits problem seems to result from it being a 'hand-me-down' kit which has been sent out as a complete kit by the NGS requiring a degree of fettling to produce a good result.
I think at times the powers that be in the NGS forget that we are not all top flight modellers, to that end, a description of the history of the kit and the possible challenges you will face would have been useful so you can go into it with your eyes open. If I'd known the history I would have tackled the build in a different way.
I'm going to put the current kit to one side and build my other one from a different start point.
Knowledge is power! ???
I'm going to put the current kit to one side and build my other one from a different start point.
mike : sounds good advice. my late Gran said : " if its becoming tedious leave alone and start again another time when fresher and you can think again ".
Quote from: crewearpley40 on July 29, 2019, 11:41:36 PM
I'm going to put the current kit to one side and build my other one from a different start point.
mike : sounds good advice. my late Gran said : " if its becoming tedious leave alone and start again another time when fresher and you can think again ".
Hi all,
Well - certainly brings out the modellers!
When it was introduced the Parkwood kit was more or less 'state of the art' when it came to small run injection moulded models.
Now - it's a barely acceptable model that needs a lot of work to build and make look good.
To me - that just means it's become a challenge to do - and I'm all up for a challenge.
Photos will be appearing shortly showing the ones I have built - still sorting loads for them.
Bogies are still an issue as the pivot point and pin that the kit has are a different size to the NGS bogie pivot hole.
I originally did mine with the Microtrains bogies but have since upgraded them to take NGS bogies. - Y25 and/or GP225 depending on period you model.
Thanks
Phil H
Thanks phil. I always lay the parts out read instructions. Look forward to the photos
Quote from: ScottishModeller on July 29, 2019, 11:56:27 PM
Quote from: crewearpley40 on July 29, 2019, 11:41:36 PM
I'm going to put the current kit to one side and build my other one from a different start point.
mike : sounds good advice. my late Gran said : " if its becoming tedious leave alone and start again another time when fresher and you can think again ".
Hi all,
Well - certainly brings out the modellers!
When it was introduced the Parkwood kit was more or less 'state of the art' when it came to small run injection moulded models.
Now - it's a barely acceptable model that needs a lot of work to build and make look good.
To me - that just means it's become a challenge to do - and I'm all up for a challenge.
Photos will be appearing shortly showing the ones I have built - still sorting loads for them.
Bogies are still an issue as the pivot point and pin that the kit has are a different size to the NGS bogie pivot hole.
I originally did mine with the Microtrains bogies but have since upgraded them to take NGS bogies. - Y25 and/or GP225 depending on period you model.
Thanks
Phil H
Phil,
I'm not sure I'd go as far as 'barely acceptable', it's ok'ish, but knowing the background means you can approach assembly in a different manner.
Knowing that the original kit was produced without bogies, and that the NGS bogies are an 'add-on' so to speak I would have dry assembled the deck/bogie pivot/bogie to assess the fit.
It's just been frustrating to go from an accurately moulded van kit, which had easily identifiable and solveable flash, positive location, and accurate instructions to a kit where it's hard to distinguish the flash from the mould edge, there's no accurate location and the instructions could be better.
I appreciate the challenge, but there's still an awful lot of railway modellers who are, probably by their own admission, beginners. These people may well be the future members or new members of the NGS who may well have been enticed to join by the large selection of kits available. Some guidance on the website about the evolution of the kits, the pitfalls, and the difficulty could be helpful and prevent people walking away from the NGS.
My suspicion is that the kit catalogue has evolved over the years in the prescence of experienced modellers who had some knowledge of the history of each kit and no-one has thought about the newer/less experienced modellers that are now coming to these models. Prior to the NGS, it's possible that people are only used to Airfix/Revell/Hasagawa kits which are always sharp, accurate and well explained. That's not a criticism, it's just the way things evolve over the years.
For what its worth the plates that mould these kits can date well back to the seventies and to reduce cost most were probably cut using a pantogragh mill.
I've seen at first hand a lot of plates that Barry and Jean Parks (Cambrian Models) produced when I visited Graham Taylor a while back who now owns all their tooling, its very dated but still works!
Pretty much are all brass cavity plates bolstered with steel supports, and over the years have been subjected to a lot of use and suffered a little wear and tear, so a little flash is to be expected.
Large companies such as the likes of Airfix / Revell for more accuracy would have had their cavities sparked (EDM) in steel then hardened as the tool would be expected to produce vast outputs and cost considerably more unlike the tools made by Cambrian and Parkside which were cut in brass.
As already mentioned these kits are after all "Scratch Aids" and do require a certain amount of skill level to assemble them and are far more easier to build than that of etched brass or white metal kits.
Quote from: Mr Sprue on July 30, 2019, 09:08:39 AM
For what its worth the plates that mould these kits can date well back to the seventies and to reduce cost most were probably cut using a pantogragh mill.
I've seen at first hand a lot of plates that Barry and Jean Parks (Cambrian Models) produced when I visited Graham Taylor a while back who now owns all their tooling, its very dated but still works!
Pretty much are all brass cavity plates bolstered with steel supports, and over the years have been subjected to a lot of use and suffered a little wear and tear, so a little flash is to be expected.
Large companies such as the likes of Airfix / Revell for more accuracy would have had their cavities sparked (EDM) in steel then hardened as the tool would be expected to produce vast outputs and cost considerably more unlike the tools made by Cambrian and Parkside which were cut in brass.
As already mentioned these kits are after all "Scratch Aids" and do require a certain amount of skill level to assemble them and are far more easier to build than that of etched brass or white metal kits.
Thanks for the background on the kits, and indeed on the differences between production 'size' mould technology.
Again, you mention you consider them to be 'scratch building' aids. Again, if this was mentioned in the description on the NGS website members would be better prepared for the challenge in front of themselves.
Maybe it would be beneficial for those who 'know' the kits to update the description on the website to better inform people of what to expect.
I started this thread, originally, to vent a bit of frustration and try to find how others had tackled this 'kit', and it's turned into a very informative thread which has possibly highlighted some improvements that could be introduced on the NGS shop website.
Thanks for all the input...
...so far!
:thumbsup:
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/80/1344-300719101723.jpeg) (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=80016)
These are my efforts at Warwells finished a couple of weeks ago.
I must agree with the original thread that the sides did need a lot of cleaning up and where difficult to position when glueing I had to hold mine for ages while the initial glue set and then flood more glue into the bottom. I suppose the beginner class simple means they don't have many parts
The mistake i made was to glue the rather crude brake wheel in position before painting and then it was impossible to paint in the end i replaced them with etched brass parts which looked much better
How do they run? I have not run them yet but they seem very light even with loads and stiff do they need any weight added?
I do like the little tanks though
Going back to the beginning which vans did you make first?
Quote from: emjaybee on July 30, 2019, 09:46:17 AM
Again, you mention you consider them to be 'scratch building' aids. Again, if this was mentioned in the description on the NGS website members would be better prepared for the challenge in front of themselves.
Maybe it would be beneficial for those who 'know' the kits to update the description on the website to better inform people of what to expect.
"Scratch aids" normally have things missing where upon the modeler has to improvise e.g to fill a hole where a roof would curve down to a join an end, etched brass kits are renowned for this headache!
Concerning NGS kits they are pretty much complete and yes if there are parts to be sourced elsewhere then yes in that scenario I completely agree the word "Scratch aid" should be mentioned.
But to be fair NGS do mention in their listings whether the kit is easily assembled or will prove to be a challenge!
Quote from: Mr Sprue on July 30, 2019, 10:27:47 AM
Quote from: emjaybee on July 30, 2019, 09:46:17 AM
Again, you mention you consider them to be 'scratch building' aids. Again, if this was mentioned in the description on the NGS website members would be better prepared for the challenge in front of themselves.
Maybe it would be beneficial for those who 'know' the kits to update the description on the website to better inform people of what to expect.
"Scratch aids" normally have things missing where upon the modeler has to improvise e.g to fill a hole where a roof would curve down to a join an end, etched brass kits are renowned for this headache!
Concerning NGS kits they are pretty much complete and yes if there are parts to be sourced elsewhere then yes in that scenario I completely agree the word "Scratch aid" should be mentioned.
But to be fair NGS do mention in their listings whether the kit is easily assembled or will prove to be a challenge!
To be fair, they don't mention that at all.
The info on the Warwell kit says:
"Ex Parkwood Models kit representing type used from WW2 to mid 1970s. Supplied with diamond frame bogies." On the main NGS website,
and
"Kit 50a. WD Warwell (NGSK0500)
(Eras 3-7)
Decals are not included in this kit, but are available under 'NGS Decals', item NGST0500 (click to go to page)." On the NGS shop website.
So I think some improvements in the descriptions of the kits could be made.
Quote from: xm607 on July 30, 2019, 10:27:38 AM
Going back to the beginning which vans did you make first?
I did some M.R. open frame vans and the LMS twin pack, have a look here.
https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=45562.msg572914#msg572914 (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=45562.msg572914#msg572914)
Quote from: rhysapthomas on July 30, 2019, 10:24:43 AM
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/80/1344-300719101723.jpeg) (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=80016)
These are my efforts at Warwells finished a couple of weeks ago.
I must agree with the original thread that the sides did need a lot of cleaning up and where difficult to position when glueing I had to hold mine for ages while the initial glue set and then flood more glue into the bottom. I suppose the beginner class simple means they don't have many parts
The mistake i made was to glue the rather crude brake wheel in position before painting and then it was impossible to paint in the end i replaced them with etched brass parts which looked much better
How do they run? I have not run them yet but they seem very light even with loads and stiff do they need any weight added?
I do like the little tanks though
Nice job!!!
What did you use, or did you need to shim the bogies to stop them rubbing on the underframe?
Also, where did you get the etched handwheel from?
And, while I've still got your attention, what colour and type of paint, that looks quite effective?
:D
Thanks you
The brake wheels some spares from an NGS kit and 51L CWSBD Brass Gauge Dial (Pk9) from Peterspares bought via ebay as the postage was cheaper for the same item £3 total
I did fit a thin fibre washer which i found a few in my box of computer screws they were insulated washer about 0.8mm thick i had to open up the centre abit. I have to say i still have not run them on a layout
The paint was Tamiya Olive Green with NATO Black for the vehicles. The decals are really fiddly but at least plenty came with the kit
The LMS Twins were tooled by Parkside as were the Vanwide, BR Std vans and LNER Vans amonst others for Parkwood, the Warflat Warwell were done by Cambrian, also with others. If these are now regarded as Scratch aids (can't see how as you get a complete wagon body with out resorting to sheet plastic or brass) the NGS Gresley full brake must be one due to the bogies. They require end transoms to stop the wheel sets from dropping out at the slightest provocation, and yes I have built 5 of these including one shortened to make a Great Eastern version.
In the beginning with the Warflat Warwell, we were hampered by Farish being acquired by Bachmann and stopping all separate bogies as they went over to batch production in China, so alternataves had to be used. Both wagons were inspired by "Somewhere in England" by G Atkinson and Andy Calverts "Moorcock" by the way.
Quote from: emjaybee on July 30, 2019, 10:59:05 AM
Quote from: Mr Sprue on July 30, 2019, 10:27:47 AM
Quote from: emjaybee on July 30, 2019, 09:46:17 AM
Again, you mention you consider them to be 'scratch building' aids. Again, if this was mentioned in the description on the NGS website members would be better prepared for the challenge in front of themselves.
Maybe it would be beneficial for those who 'know' the kits to update the description on the website to better inform people of what to expect.
"Scratch aids" normally have things missing where upon the modeler has to improvise e.g to fill a hole where a roof would curve down to a join an end, etched brass kits are renowned for this headache!
Concerning NGS kits they are pretty much complete and yes if there are parts to be sourced elsewhere then yes in that scenario I completely agree the word "Scratch aid" should be mentioned.
But to be fair NGS do mention in their listings whether the kit is easily assembled or will prove to be a challenge!
To be fair, they don't mention that at all.
The info on the Warwell kit says:
"Ex Parkwood Models kit representing type used from WW2 to mid 1970s. Supplied with diamond frame bogies." On the main NGS website,
and
"Kit 50a. WD Warwell (NGSK0500)
(Eras 3-7)
Decals are not included in this kit, but are available under 'NGS Decals', item NGST0500 (click to go to page)." On the NGS shop website.
So I think some improvements in the descriptions of the kits could be made.
I didn't scroll down that far on the
NGS Kits Page (http://newweb.ngaugesociety.com/?page_id=53) but it does in most cases give some kind of skill info in the descriptions.
But yes I agree there is a possible need for improvement in that area.
Quote from: xm607 on July 30, 2019, 01:27:39 PM
The NGS Gresley full brake must be one due to the bogies. They require end transoms to stop the wheel sets from dropping out at the slightest provocation, and yes I have built 5 of these including one shortened to make a Great Eastern version.
Hi
Are these older bogies as I've just built one (bought this year) and the wheel sets stay firmly in the bogies.
I have also built one of the Warwells and don't remember having any issues putting it together. Its not finished as I am converting it into one of these
https://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/brtwinjibcrane/e17cbd2e8
Cheers
Paul
paul
would this help ?
plus commentary
https://www.flickr.com/photos/36034969@N08/46860429521 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/36034969@N08/46860429521)
Heavy Duty Non Self Propelled Track Relayer.
DETAILS FOR THIS VEHICLE:
Location ; Washwood Heath Yard.
Date : 21/10/1989.
Type : Heavy Duty Twin Jib Track Relayer.
Number : DRB 78113.
Number Series : DRB 78101-3/6-9/12-13/19-23.
Builder : 1969-75 by BREL/British Hoist & Crane Co.
TOPS Code : YJW.
CCE Code : TRM.
ADDITIONAL NOTES.
With the advent of concrete sleepers came the need for a track relayer capable of lifting a much heavier track panel with the sleepers still attached. British Rail Engineering opted for a twin jib machine with central operating cab and using redundant SR and LMSR 'Warwell' wagons as a platform. With the installation of two 6.5 ton British Hoist & Crane Co. cranes it gave a safe lift capacity of 12 tons. 14 such machines were built mainly for use on the London Midland Region but soon appeared on the ER, ScR and SR too. Most carried pre TOPS machine numbers with the prefix TRM (this one here being TRM14) but with the advent of CEPS (BR Civil Engineers Plant System numbers) in 1974 all received numbers in the DR 781xxx number range.
Most saw use well into the 1980's but their downfall was vacuum brakes, friction bearings on the old wagon bogies and the fact they were not self propelled. The DR 781xxx numbered machine were unpowered so needed a locomotive attached to shuttle up and down with them to load track panels onto a waiting engineers train. The more modern machines built from 1978 onward being self propelled were much more efficient. DRB 78113 was one of the last two in service and when photographed at Washwood Heath belonged to the RCE Birmingham Division. It was withdrawn in 1991 and scrapped at Rugby Plant Depot by Coopers Metals Ltd in June 1992. It was only outlived by DRB 78123 allocated to Polmadie in Scotland.
Quote from: crewearpley40 on July 30, 2019, 03:35:38 PM
would this help ?
Hi
It would indeed, thank you.
Cheers
Paul
welcome paul
maybe a thread on how your constructing this interesting departmental model be great. paul bartlett 's site has interesting photos and materials on these warwells. i have seen a couple used for loading mini diggers , barrows, bobcats, fencing, tools
etc attached to a vacuum brake van and what looked a tool van converted from an old box van. i suspect the www.atmwagons.co.uk (http://www.atmwagons.co.uk) Y25 fabricated bogies or cast frame kits
are available,unsure which you need. Gp22.5/ qp22.5 models may have been discontinued, their website does not work
N gauge society maybe way forward
Quote from: crewearpley40 on July 30, 2019, 03:55:00 PM
welcome paul
maybe a thread on how your constructing this interesting departmental model be great. paul bartlett 's site has interesting photos and materials on these warwells. i have seen a couple used for loading mini diggers , barrows, bobcats, fencing, tools
etc attached to a vacuum brake van and what looked a tool van converted from an old box van
Hi
It might be a while though as there are quite a few other items in the queue.
Cheers
Paul
please see edited bit !!!
there was a / is a useful thread here :
https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=8083.0 (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=8083.0)
Hello all,
I think the NGS has a new products officer, so perhaps the OP could write up some improved instruction notes and send them in?
I have built 8 Warwells (when they were in the Parkwood range) and I don't recall any dramas.
I think I just used some plastic tube to augment the bogie bosses to the right size. But it was a while ago, and I accept we all have different expectations.
Cheers
Ben A.
Quote from: Ben A on July 30, 2019, 06:20:53 PM
Hello all,
I think the NGS has a new products officer, so perhaps the OP could write up some improved instruction notes and send them in?
I have built 8 Warwells (when they were in the Parkwood range) and I don't recall any dramas.
I think I just used some plastic tube to augment the bogie bosses to the right size. But it was a while ago, and I accept we all have different expectations.
Cheers
Ben A.
The instructions are reasonably good. That's not really the problem I was having. I will make some notes however and pass them on.
Quote from: Ben A on July 30, 2019, 06:20:53 PM
Hello all,
I think the NGS has a new products officer, so perhaps the OP could write up some improved instruction notes and send them in?
I have built 8 Warwells (when they were in the Parkwood range) and I don't recall any dramas.
I think I just used some plastic tube to augment the bogie bosses to the right size. But it was a while ago, and I accept we all have different expectations.
Cheers
Ben A.
Might be a good subject for an article for the journal, dealing with the pins for the bogies and cutting away parts on the front and back of the wagon made this model a pain, + my fingers are less nimble than when I did military modelling or maybe it is just a scale issue as that was in 1/72.
Am I imagining it, or did the old NGS website include a skill level indicator for each wagon kit? The shake the box Peco ones being the easiest with the etched brass Queen Mary brake van being one of the hardest.
Perhaps the idea needs resurrecting so expectations are better managed?
Steven
Quote from: Steven B on July 31, 2019, 09:22:27 AM
Am I imagining it, or did the old NGS website include a skill level indicator for each wagon kit? The shake the box Peco ones being the easiest with the etched brass Queen Mary brake van being one of the hardest.
Perhaps the idea needs resurrecting so expectations are better managed?
Steven
Hi
I think the handbook gives an idea of the complexity but I can't remember if the website did.
I also thought the instructions had a level of difficulty on them but obviously thats a bit late if you've already bought the kit by mail order.
Cheers
Paul
Just out of interest do any of you plastic kit builders use some form of assembly jig?
Quote from: Mr Sprue on July 31, 2019, 01:33:47 PM
Just out of interest do any of you plastic kit builders use some form of assembly jig?
Hi there,
Yes - but I think I will be in a minority!
I started using jigs more years ago than I care to remember.
There was a time when these were essential as kits (generally speaking) were not as accurate or well designed as they are these days.
I hate to think how I would have assembeld some of the cast kits and got everything square without them.
Mine are a combination of metal and hardwood plus some ex motor trade measuring shims and sit on a piece of shelf glass.
I use one jig for all underframes to ensure all is square - both the chassis frame and across the bearing/axle housing.
The same jig can be used to ensure that bodies are assembled square.
Next time I use it I will take photos to show what I mean.
Thanks
Phil H
Yep. I try to build in batches of five and make bespoke jigs for each model. Sometimes, I might even make jigs for a jig!
I think 123 blocks are a pretty good starting point along with small magnetic pates and maybe an angle bracket.
Just about to join the NGS with the intention of getting these kits. I have been a modeller for some time so not too worried about difficulty as I am hoping I can handle it. :hmmm:
Just wondered how much do they sell for? (as not a member I cant see the price)
Quote from: Skids on August 06, 2020, 11:10:22 AM
Just about to join the NGS with the intention of getting these kits. I have been a modeller for some time so not too worried about difficulty as I am hoping I can handle it. :hmmm:
Just wondered how much do they sell for? (as not a member I cant see the price)
I can't remember off hand, but they're not big money, and the range, the ever increasing range, of NGS kits is worth the membership fee.
You don't need to be a member to see the kit prices - just go to ngsjoin.com and click on the menu item for Society products etc.
Cheers Mike
The kits are amazing value and they alone make joining the NGS worth every penny, but of course you get much more than that if you do!
Roy
I've built quite a few NGS kits and it's fair to say that some go together a lot better than others. The only one to defeat me so far is the GW Loriot, whose axles appear too long to fit within the chassis frames.
Quote from: longbow on August 07, 2020, 12:54:50 AM
I've built quite a few NGS kits and it's fair to say that some go together a lot better than others. The only one to defeat me so far is the GW Loriot, whose axles appear too long to fit within the chassis frames.
Hi Longbow,
The Loriot kit will go together with the supplied wheelsets.
However quite often modellers put the solebars on misaligned.
This is easy to do because of the lack of a positive positioning tab and slot.
The mouldings have angles built in and they are the only thing that shows where they join.
The correct position for the join is when the top of the angle on the solebar is aligned to the top of the angle on the wagon floor.
I'll dig one out and put a photo later up to show this.
Thanks
Phil H