Hello folks.
I have been an N scale modeler (US N scale that is) for a while, and have lately gotten interested in Great Western models. In particular, building a small BLT layout on a 4x1 board (or even in an old wood guitar case I've got - another thread for another time, perhaps) but I also enjoy shunting a lot. In American n scale, the weight of the cars and the use of knuckle couplers makes this work pretty well, but the wagons in British n gauge are so tiny and light, how well does shunting work? On a smallish fiddleyard to terminus layout, shunting will be a large part of the fun. Is single car shunting, whether magnetic or manual, workable? Or should I just reconsider 4mm scale? I have a 56xx and a couple wagons, and must admit they're much easier to work with, but of course, they're much larger and need more space.
Help! eeps.
Amanda
Hello Amanda,
No need to change scales, shunting is perfectly possible in N.
For a branch line terminus the easiest option is to remove the spring from the nem coupling pocket. It is the plastic lip on the top side of the pocket, simply break it off.
Downside of this is that a train at speed can uncouple spontaneously but on a 4 ft terminus layout this won't be a problem.
Second option is removing the nem pockets and mount DG couplings. Since you are a member of the 2mm scale association you must know them.
Then there is the coupling produced by a member on this forum which seems to work well. I'm sure someone will direct you to the thread.
Next option: replace the nem couplings by microtrains knuckle couplers, you know how they work and possibly you have some spare ones to try out?
Well, there are several other options so my conclusion is: no reason AT ALL to change scale :D
Jan
Use the Dapol "EasyShunts" they work very well and are similar to the "Microtrains" knuckle couplers. I do automatic shunting on Claywell using them and Railroad & Co's Train Controller program and it works very well.
Hi Amanda :wave: and welcome aboard! :wave:
Jan and Caz have made the case for N. :NGaugersRule:
Hello Amanda, and welcome to the forum. :wave:
Hi Amanda and welcome. Any chance of a few pictures of your current layout?
welcome to te forum.amanda
please feel free to ask questions-many talented modellers with a lot of skills, tutorials - we help each other. chris
G'day from Australia, Amanda, and welcome to the NGF! :thumbsup:
Quote from: WM183 on April 25, 2019, 05:32:21 PM
In American n scale, the weight of the cars and the use of knuckle couplers makes this work pretty well, but the wagons in British n gauge are so tiny and light, how well does shunting work? On a smallish fiddleyard to terminus layout, shunting will be a large part of the fun. Is single car shunting, whether magnetic or manual, workable?
Using the standard Rapido type couplings that most European N gauge stock is equipped with, shunting isn't very reliable. Hands-off Uncoupling is not really possible and recoupling is hit and miss...
There are however many options for replacement coupling that greatly improve shunting. The most popular options are the Dapol easishunt which are a knuckle type similar to what you would be familiar with from US stock, and the B&B or DG hook and loop types.
The Dapol couplings come assembled and are easily swapped on more recently produced stock with NEM coupling mountings but are expensive and some consider obtrusive on older stock.
The B&Bs or DGs require more skill as they require assembly from etched brass components but are less expensive, and less obtrusive.
I have a couple of shunting layouts. I use Peco elsie couplings and their magnetic system.
The problem with N gauge arises from the different types of couplings.
Spring loaded and nem couplings are resistant to gently pushing another wagon against them so often require one wagon to be held down whilst the other is coupled up. The elsie on the other hand connects with just the slightest touch.
Spring couplings also push the two couplings against each other making uncoupling harder thus the Peco and similar Gaugemaster uncoupling systems will not work with springs. They can be adapted by removing the spring and adapting the Peco lift arm (or using a track pin) so that the coupling is both held horizontal and lifts when the magnet is energized.
On 'must have' rolling stock that comes with nems, I have been fortunate to be able to replace the coupling with a peco elsie whilst retaining the coupling at the correct height and buffer to buffer distance.
I have dabled with DG couplings and they are very good and you need less magnets. I have though kept the standard peco couplings so as not yo have to butcher my large collection of wagons. If you dont mind making permanent changes to your rolling stock then DG is the way forward.
Elmo
Frankly, I would like to change to Dapol Easi-Shunt couplings. This is easy enough on Dapol's own stock but I haven't yet managed to fit one to Farish stock with an NEM pocket.
Quote from: D9020 Nimbus on April 26, 2019, 02:33:19 PM
....but I haven't yet managed to fit one to Farish stock with an NEM pocket.
This puzzled me, why would a standardized coupling not fit a standardized pocket??
Of course I believe you but I wanted to find out.
So, out with the boxes, found some Dapol easy shunts and a Farish autocoach.
Fits perfectly.
But the pocket of the Farish coach is open at the back and perhaps that is why it fits.
The back of the shaft of the Dapol coupling extends just a little longer than that of the Farish rapido coupling. Perhaps the pockets on Farish loco's and goods stock are not deep enough to accept the Dapol shafts?
Maybe you could try to file a little bit off the end of de Dapol Shaft and try if it fits your Farish stock? I use different couplings and chop all coupling boxes off my stock so I can't try. The autocoach is still new and hasn't been abused yet ;)
@WM183 (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=7566) it seems the Dapol couplings are the answer to your question!
I made a photo of the coach and the two couplings, I hope it is clear.
(https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/76/5017-260419154046.jpeg) (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=76649)
Wow, what a welcome!
Thank you all for the warm welcome and the helpful suggestions. I will look into the DG couplings, as I will be using 2mm etchings for the bulk of my rolling stock anyway. I am still unsure whether I will convert fully to 2mm finescale, mostly because I just am unsure about my ability to convert these teeny locomotives. I mean, a loco in American N scale is small, but these Pannier tanks are absolutely tiny! I've remotored and regeared and bashed my share of locomotives, but never tried to build new drivetrain before.
RE: A layout! I'd love to share photos of my layout, if I had one. I moved to the Netherlands about 5 years ago, and recently got back into Model Railroading. I have around half a dozen or so locomotives, mostly Western Maryland Railway (hence my user ID) but also a few C&O and NYC steam locomotives too. Most have been modified by me, and in the case of one of the C&O locomotives, built from assorted parts and a Kato heavy 2-8-2 model. I'll share a few photos of my projects.
A Chesapeake & Ohio K3 heavy 2-8-2 from assorted parts, a Bachmann tender, and a Kato heavy 2-8-2 (Done now, I need to do a more recent photo)
(https://i.imgur.com/FMdRthA.jpg)
A Key brass New York Central H10 2-8-2 with a can motor upgrade
(https://i.imgur.com/TeRgdEc.jpg)
A Western Maryland GP 9 with a lowered short hood and brass cab front
(https://i.imgur.com/nMwaijn.jpg)
Great, another expertly skilled modeller brain for me to tap for tips! :beers:
:greatwork: :greatpicturessign: :thankyousign: