Has anyone successfully fitted these? I'm trying a dry run (without glue) to see if Dapol NEMCOUPS or Easi-shunts can still be fitted without being obstructed. I'm finding it very difficult, even after removing the bogies, which seems to be essential. The buffers are very fragile and easily bent, so I'm after advice before proceeding any further. TIA.
yes I fitted it at one end.
it's a complete pain.
I think the cab lower front is rounded whereas the buffing plate is square so this means you can't push the plate on fully to make a nice flush fit. only really the central part of the plate touches the very lower cab front. so I suppose the trick is don't push it on too hard. the pins should just hold it in place with a very small amount of super glue. sometimes it can push the body upwards if the plate catches under the body so be careful.
I wish they would just fit the parts in the factory for us even if it adds a few pounds! some models now seem to come with buffer beam details fitted I notice. I know its lazy but I prefer that!
Tim
Thanks for your reply Tim.
Totally agree with your views about buffer-beam parts.
I must admit I didn't take the body off, but perhaps this is the way to go, as it would allow for the buffing plate to be slotted behind the coupling hook.
Did you fit a coupling at the buffing-plate end of your model and if so, does it restrict the coupling's movement in any way?
It's a lovely model as it is though--I'll have to fit the centre cab-windows with a route code to dim those lights though!
John.
hi
you can fit it with the body still on.
if I've done it correctly myself then it fits above the coupling hook and you can still fit a rapido or other functional coupling too.
good luck
Tim
Some of the 33/1's have got a 33/0 buffer beam with no holes for the buffing plate.. to get round this I carefully glued the buffing plate to the bottom edge of the cab front. It looks almost identical to the correct 33/1 position but remove the body so you don't glue the cab to the buffer beam..
Cheers
Mark
Could some kind soul please put me out of my misery and tell me what the function of said buffing plate is? :dunce:
Class 33/1 were fitted with multiple working equipment to allow them to work with third-rail EMUs and 4-TC sets in puch pull mode. You can see the extra cables fitted just below the window in this picture:
(http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/66/3063-080618093924.jpeg) (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=66191)
They were fitted with drop-down buckeye couplings - you can just see 33103's hiding in the murk behind the red emergency coupling fitted to the hook.
When coupled using the buckeye couplings the corridor connection would rub against the nose of the locos. The rubbing/buffing plate fitted between the buffers stops this from happening.
The buffers would be retracted when in this mode allowing the buck-eye to take all the coupling/buffing/hauling forces. On the photo above they're in the extended form.
A similar set-up is used on the class 90 and 91s. The Mk1 Motorail wagons recently produced by Bachmann for the NGS also have them fitted for the same reason.
Steven B.
Perfect. Thanks for enlightening me, Steven. :thumbsup:
Hello.
Do you think white glue or Faller expert glue could work ?
Thanks.
Ok, finally I managed to install them with super glue.
But as said, it's a real pain.
I don't understand why they are not installed by default or why it is not plug'n play like with Tomix/Tomytec engines.
Quote from: ohlavache on June 10, 2018, 07:51:23 PM
Ok, finally I managed to install them with super glue.
But as said, it's a real pain.
I don't understand why they are not installed by default or why it is not plug'n play like with Tomix/Tomytec engines.
I couldn't agree more!!! I fixed the buffing plate with SuperGlue to my 33/1, but I am pretty sure that it has been affixed as an approximation at best...
well done
now don't knock it off!!
Tim
I've had to admit defeat and have given up trying, such was the risk of damage to the plastic buffers.