I found this from a link on a site about converting Minitrix steamers to DCC.
It's German ebay,but looks to have a lot of different spares.
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/lok-doctor/Trix-N-/_i.html?_fsub=19&_sid=91208032&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322 (http://stores.ebay.co.uk/lok-doctor/Trix-N-/_i.html?_fsub=19&_sid=91208032&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322)
Part numbers here..
http://www.jfheath.co.uk/ngauge/spares/spares.htm (http://www.jfheath.co.uk/ngauge/spares/spares.htm)
Allan
Just hopefully bought a packet. The Britannia / A$ ones are 72-0878-00 last price £4:18 plus postage.
Now who knows how to fit them Dr Al are you out there ?
You'll need to take the tiny hexagon head screw out that holds the connecting rod on and then slip the tyre under the connecting rod and over the wheel,at least that's what it looks like to me.
The tiny screw can be fiddly to put in,so I shrink a short piece of heat shrink tube over it and then cut the tube off below the head with a scalpel,this makes a nut spinner and means the screw doesn't drop out of the tweezers or whatever you use to hold it,plus if you drop it it's a lot easier to find..
If you can find a bit of plastic tube,or insulation off a wire the right size to force over the head it's even better because you can use it to spin the the screw out as well.
Allan
Not really a hard job, just VERY fiddly - you have to remove the pin holding the running gear to the wheel, which is a very tiny screw with a very tine hexagonal head. Depending on how tight it is, you might be ok with some pliers if you're gentle enough, tweezers if they're not too tight. Once they've taken a few turns I usually just unscrew them with my fingers (which, fortunately, are long and thin as befits a pianist!), but that won't necessarily work for everyone. Then it's just a matter of getting them in place and screwing the pins back in. THAT is fiddly.
I've also found that getting the pin out of the leading drive wheel is impossible without removing the centre pin and getting the rest of the gear out of the way. Fortunatley this pin just pulls out and pushes in, but you do have to keep an eye on making sure you keep the right alignment when you put it back in. Just take care as these things seem to be made from case-hardened marshmallow, with about 0.5mm worth of plastic holding it together at one point. I've unfortunately broken two of them and they are impossible to replace without replacing the entire gear.
Hope that helps :)
I managed to get the screw out of the leading wheel okay,a bit fiddly but doable.
I wasn't sure how the central wheel was connected so I had to.
Allan
Now Ive bought my packet, there is a packet on e-bay of (only) 2 available from the UK postage free !
Quote from: Jerry Howlett on February 11, 2012, 03:51:34 PM
Now Ive bought my packet, there is a packet on e-bay of (only) 2 available from the UK postage free !
If they're the ones I saw they went for £13.50 the pair.
I've ordered a pack of ten 72087800 and ten 72151300 and it's only cost about that,might be less if the postage gets combined,just waiting for a reply on that.
Allan
My 1 x packet of 10 cost £6:94 including postage. Guess I better put them on ebay when they arrive !! :evil: :smiley-laughing:
Arrived this morning , let the surgery begin !
Quote from: Bikeracer on February 11, 2012, 07:35:23 AM
I found this from a link on a site about converting Minitrix steamers to DCC.
It's German ebay,but looks to have a lot of different spares.
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/lok-doctor/Trix-N-/_i.html?_fsub=19&_sid=91208032&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322 (http://stores.ebay.co.uk/lok-doctor/Trix-N-/_i.html?_fsub=19&_sid=91208032&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322)
Part numbers here..
http://www.jfheath.co.uk/ngauge/spares/spares.htm (http://www.jfheath.co.uk/ngauge/spares/spares.htm)
Allan
Thank you for this excellent link Allan. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
I have ordered tyres for my 9Fs and await their arrival. :)
Prices charged in this country for these items are rediculously high even when you can find them!! :thumbsdown: :thumbsdown:
Bill
Fixed 2 x Britannias and 1 x A$ all for under a tenner !
Anybody know where to get a replacement plastic bit that secures and seperates the slide bars on a Brit Chassis. Mine goes ok forward but in reverse it pushes the motion up and the whole thing locks up. I noticed that they are sandwiched between two pieces of plastic and these have cracked. They also serve to insulate the 2 halves.
Quote from: Jerry Howlett on February 16, 2012, 11:20:08 AM
Fixed 2 x Britannias and 1 x A$ all for under a tenner !
Anybody know where to get a replacement plastic bit that secures and seperates the slide bars on a Brit Chassis. Mine goes ok forward but in reverse it pushes the motion up and the whole thing locks up. I noticed that they are sandwiched between two pieces of plastic and these have cracked. They also serve to insulate the 2 halves.
Can you super glue them together?
Allan
Tried it but it didn't have the rigidity (is that a word) required.
Hi Jerry,
I can't remember quite how those plastic blacks fit together,but is there any chance of putting it together with some heat shrink round it and then shrinking it on to hold them together.
It is brittle that red plastic,I sheared the threaded part off on the "T"nut thing at the rear of the tender on the inside,so I used a bit of wire insulation like a rawlplug and the screw is quite secure now.
Allan
Allan I am going to post a couple of pictures of the bit.
Trouble is my wife keeps using the computer. Cheek !!!
(http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd518/JerryHowlett/004.jpg)
(http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd518/JerryHowlett/002.jpg)
Only thing I can suggest at the moment is to build the two pieces separately from laminations of Plasticard cutting slots out for the coupling rods as you go.
Dunno if that makes sense,but I'd try if I was in the same situation.
Allan
I would agree with Allan. Even as an engineering numpty, I would think that could be replicated relatively easily with some plasticard and a small saw. Worth a try!
Quote from: Bikeracer on February 16, 2012, 03:24:21 PM
Only thing I can suggest at the moment is to build the two pieces separately from laminations of Plasticard cutting slots out for the coupling rods as you go.
Dunno if that makes sense,but I'd try if I was in the same situation.
Allan
Being a numpty and visiting the UK tomorrow, what thickness of plasticard can you buy ?. There is a model shop near to where we are staying so I have a chance of getting something unavailable here !
Years since I bought any but I believe it goes up in 0.010" increments,don't forget the glue. :wave:
Allan
Quote from: Bikeracer on February 16, 2012, 04:17:17 PM
Years since I bought any but I believe it goes up in 0.010" increments,don't forget the glue. :wave:
Allan
Thanks Allan for all your advice finally what glue ?. I can get the super glue here does that work on plasticard. By the way we were on holiday in Sicilly last year when I came across my first Italiam model railway shop, being bolder now with the langauge I did ask for plastic card and was met with a look of total bafflement. however they were a shop dedicated to HO models so......
If the shop sells Plasticard they should sell the correct glue as well,the last I had was a very thin liquid solvent and basically was drawn into joints by capillary action.
Allan
Thanks Allan,
Don't watch this space at least for a fortnight. Its our son's wedding so I guess I may have to concentrate on other things than the railway.... or maybe not :evil: :NGF: :smiley-laughing: :beers:
Well my tyres arrived today - I took the plunge and ordered some, and they took around a week to get here from Germany - not too bad really! Maybe tomorrow if I can tidy off my desk a bit I might pull out one of the locos to see about fitting new tyres :)