On my previous layout (00 Gauge) I used flexi-track and used the following method for joining together on curved sections.
Cut one rail 2" back from the end and the other rail 1" back from the end so they were offset. Then take my 2nd piece of track and push the rails through the sleepers of the 1st track to join up using rail joiners. This ensured that there wouldn't be any kinks and the sections of track could be placed on a curved parts of the layout without any problems.
This time however, I am using Peco code 55 streamline and I can't see that the method used on my previous layout will work because the rails are embedded in the sleepers.
If anyone has used code 55 and joined them together on curved sections, can they tell me what method they used? Any ideas would be welcome before I start laying any track.
Thanks
Rob
Sorry Rob, but on the layout I am laying with code 55 I have taken the cowards way out and ensured by curves can be made in one piece. On my previous layout using code 55, I made sure any necessary join was made at the mid point e.g. on a 180 degree curve I joined them in the centre at 90 degree - if that makes sense. I never did find a satisfactory way of making any other join without problematic running :(
Doing the 180's in sections rather than using 1 full lengh of 55 and trying to join another on the end does seem to be the most logical solution.
When I had a tight curve that was too long to do with a single piece I joined two lengths together on the straight then soldered all four rails into their joiners before forming the combined piece into a curve.
Hi rg1
You might want to have a look at this thread http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=1671.75 (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=1671.75) where we have discussed this starting on page 6.
There are some pictures of my efforts which are effectively the same as edwin_m has described.
Hope this helps
Isn't this thread in the wrong section as well?
QuoteLayout Construction
Your layouts and their progress
More "N Gauge Discussion" I woulda thought ;)
Paul
Cheers Sprintex. Moving.... :thumbsup:
Thanks Tank :)
Quote from: kirky on January 12, 2012, 10:08:37 PM
Hi rg1
You might want to have a look at this thread http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=1671.75 (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=1671.75) where we have discussed this starting on page 6.
There are some pictures of my efforts which are effectively the same as edwin_m has described.
Hope this helps
That thread shows it can be done, but either you are left with a kink, or you have to use other measures such as soldering the rails together before bending (as Kirky did), or holding the joint in a smooth curve while it is glued down (as Southernboy has). Still best to avoid such joins on curves if at all possible, even if it means cutting more straight pieces so that the join is sited just
before the curve starts :)
Paul
Quote from: Sprintex on January 12, 2012, 11:14:16 PM
Thanks Tank :)
Quote from: kirky on January 12, 2012, 10:08:37 PM
Hi rg1
You might want to have a look at this thread http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=1671.75 (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=1671.75) where we have discussed this starting on page 6.
There are some pictures of my efforts which are effectively the same as edwin_m has described.
Hope this helps
Thanks, As I said earlier, on a 180 degree curve, I will cut the rail at 90 degrees and make the join so there is little room for kinks.
Thanks again :thumbsup:
That thread shows it can be done, but either you are left with a kink, or you have to use other measures such as soldering the rails together before bending (as Kirky did), or holding the joint in a smooth curve while it is glued down (as Southernboy has). Still best to avoid such joins on curves if at all possible, even if it means cutting more straight pieces so that the join is sited just before the curve starts :)
Paul
Ive laid many a curve with a joint by getting it as close as possible then tapping in a panel pin up against the fishplate, both outside and inside rails, tapping it down steadily ,so the head of the pin rests against the bottom edge of the fishplate, then very carefully tap it across, against the curvature, until you get a smooth curve through the joint. Gently is the important bit but easy to do and ballasting will hide the top of the panel pin.
I've spent some time both last night and this morning playing around with different methods and the following seems to be the best option.
On say a 180 degree curve, take the 1st piece of track and shape it to fit beyond the 90 degree mark. then take the 2nd piece and shape to the rest of the curve but overlapping the 1st piece of track by a couple of inches or so. Cut both pieces at the 90 degree mark and join. This way, there is no pressure on the rails when connected so avoiding any possibility of kinks. No soldering required, just rail joiners.
Quote from: rg1 on January 12, 2012, 07:02:24 PM
On my previous layout (00 Gauge) I used flexi-track and used the following method for joining together on curved sections.
Cut one rail 2" back from the end and the other rail 1" back from the end so they were offset. Then take my 2nd piece of track and push the rails through the sleepers of the 1st track to join up using rail joiners. This ensured that there wouldn't be any kinks and the sections of track could be placed on a curved parts of the layout without any problems.
This time however, I am using Peco code 55 streamline and I can't see that the method used on my previous layout will work because the rails are embedded in the sleepers.
If anyone has used code 55 and joined them together on curved sections, can they tell me what method they used? Any ideas would be welcome before I start laying any track.
Thanks
Rob
Hi
Yes I have done this. The rail is quite easy to remove from the sleepers and to push back in provided you only need a small amount. My overlap is about 3".
Cheers
Paul
Quote from: PaulCheffus on January 13, 2012, 11:21:47 AM
Quote from: rg1 on January 12, 2012, 07:02:24 PM
On my previous layout (00 Gauge) I used flexi-track and used the following method for joining together on curved sections.
Cut one rail 2" back from the end and the other rail 1" back from the end so they were offset. Then take my 2nd piece of track and push the rails through the sleepers of the 1st track to join up using rail joiners. This ensured that there wouldn't be any kinks and the sections of track could be placed on a curved parts of the layout without any problems.
This time however, I am using Peco code 55 streamline and I can't see that the method used on my previous layout will work because the rails are embedded in the sleepers.
If anyone has used code 55 and joined them together on curved sections, can they tell me what method they used? Any ideas would be welcome before I start laying any track.
Thanks
Rob
Hi
Yes I have done this. The rail is quite easy to remove from the sleepers and to push back in provided you only need a small amount. My overlap is about 3".
Cheers
Paul
My problem with this method is that you have to cut sleepers out as well for the rail joiners (cos of the rail being buried in the sleepers) It doesn't work as effectively as when using normal flexi track. With normal flexi track, all of the sleepers are still connected to one another and they help keep the rails in at the correct shape. Once you cut a sleeper out for the rail joiners (code 55 streamline), the sleepers become detached and have no purpose other than cosmetic value.
Does that make sense?
Rob
Rob
Quote from: rg1 on January 13, 2012, 11:04:08 AM
I've spent some time both last night and this morning playing around with different methods and the following seems to be the best option.
On say a 180 degree curve, take the 1st piece of track and shape it to fit beyond the 90 degree mark. then take the 2nd piece and shape to the rest of the curve but overlapping the 1st piece of track by a couple of inches or so. Cut both pieces at the 90 degree mark and join. This way, there is no pressure on the rails when connected so avoiding any possibility of kinks. No soldering required, just rail joiners.
That would be my preference too, Rob :thumbsup:
Quote from: newportnobby on January 13, 2012, 12:52:07 PM
Quote from: rg1 on January 13, 2012, 11:04:08 AM
I've spent some time both last night and this morning playing around with different methods and the following seems to be the best option.
On say a 180 degree curve, take the 1st piece of track and shape it to fit beyond the 90 degree mark. then take the 2nd piece and shape to the rest of the curve but overlapping the 1st piece of track by a couple of inches or so. Cut both pieces at the 90 degree mark and join. This way, there is no pressure on the rails when connected so avoiding any possibility of kinks. No soldering required, just rail joiners.
That would be my preference too, Rob :thumbsup:
And it works perfectly well! :thumbsup:
The reason being that if you take a piece of streamline and shape it to 180 degrees and leave momentarily, you will notice the last 2" or so dont hold the shape and tries to straighten itself out again. Therefore, joining 2 pieces end to end will put a strain on the connection and doing what I previously said eliminates that problem.
Quote from: rg1 on January 13, 2012, 12:31:37 PM
My problem with this method is that you have to cut sleepers out as well for the rail joiners (cos of the rail being buried in the sleepers) It doesn't work as effectively as when using normal flexi track. With normal flexi track, all of the sleepers are still connected to one another and they help keep the rails in at the correct shape. Once you cut a sleeper out for the rail joiners (code 55 streamline), the sleepers become detached and have no purpose other than cosmetic value.
Does that make sense?
Rob
Rob
Hi
If you measure correctly then you can place the railjoiner between sleepers only needing to remove the webbing at the location of the railjoiner and as the two railjoiners are off set by the overlap all the sleepers are still held correctly.
Cheers
Paul
Quote from: PaulCheffus on January 13, 2012, 02:55:42 PM
Quote from: rg1 on January 13, 2012, 12:31:37 PM
My problem with this method is that you have to cut sleepers out as well for the rail joiners (cos of the rail being buried in the sleepers) It doesn't work as effectively as when using normal flexi track. With normal flexi track, all of the sleepers are still connected to one another and they help keep the rails in at the correct shape. Once you cut a sleeper out for the rail joiners (code 55 streamline), the sleepers become detached and have no purpose other than cosmetic value.
Does that make sense?
Rob
Rob
Hi
If you measure correctly then you can place the railjoiner between sleepers only needing to remove the webbing at the location of the railjoiner and as the two railjoiners are off set by the overlap all the sleepers are still held correctly.
Cheers
Paul
Not sure what you mean. The rail is set in the groove of the sleepers. How could you cut enough of that away to insert rail joiners?
Quote from: rg1 on January 13, 2012, 03:09:09 PM
Not sure what you mean. The rail is set in the groove of the sleepers. How could you cut enough of that away to insert rail joiners?
Hi
I'll check mine tonight and let you know as it is a few years since I did it.
Cheers
Paul
Hi
Just goes to show how the memory fades. You are correct I had removed one sleeper at each position for the rail joiner but kept the rest of the sleep base intact by using a pair of pliers to twist the sleeper away from the rail after first cutting thought the web either side.
I would take a photo but I'm not sure how well it would show as it has all been painted by not yet ballasted.
Cheers
Paul
I building a four track helix which need 3 metres per loop X4 and so a lot of joins. I remove a sleeper at each end, i glue my track to pre laid cork which is 22mm wide 1.6mm high. once the first piece is dry i do all the cutting to make sure the rail will be a perfect fit, i then make sure i use tight fitting peco fish plates (some recently have been sloppy) i then add the extra 2 dummy sleepers join the tracks, re align the dummy sleepers to the correct spacing, and then push in the last inch or so of a track setta template being the 18 inch radi. I then put a spring clamp over the join, finish laying the rest of that piece ie clamping it to the cork and let it all dry.I find my curves have been perfect and you would find it hard to find the track joints at all. I cannot stand seeing gaps where there are no sleepers or large self tappers holding track. My method takes time but to date i have laid nearly 60 metres and twenty sets of points all electrofrog code 55 all using the cobalts from DCC concepts.
The dummy sleepers that Peco sell are a boon for disguising the location of joins and they have the cutout to sit correctly under the track.
Mark