I hope this is in the right place.....
I have just built a 4 x 2 baseboard mainly for somewhere to put my running in circuit of track
Its 2x1 timber with a 12mm ply top and it has warped!! It must be nearly 3/8" out over the diagonal :o
I now know I should have not done it with 2x1 etc but is there any advice on how to pull it square?
It not something that has happened to me before......
Sounds to me like you haven't varnished both sides of the ply, Jason.
Maybe fitting of some cross bracing underneath will pull it back for the most part :hmmm:
I had a similar problem with my first layout
I tried to salvage the baseboards, but had to dispose three of them
I suspect it was caused by the actual bracing method itself
I shall try some extra bracing on the diagonals tomorrow....
For a proper baseboard I wouldn't do what I have here- so that is a Lesson Learned about cutting corners!
:-[ sad thing is I do a lot of "basic joinery" in the day job :o so I should know better.....
Quote from: JasonBz on February 28, 2016, 10:45:53 PM
I now know I should have not done it with 2x1
Yep ! 2x1 well known for warping and pulling other things with it :(
Can you remove it ?
If so, replace with something that will maintain a straight surface like the edge of a 4inch strip of plywood (cut to a straight edge by your local diy/timber place if you trust their saw-table).
Use short bits of the redundant 2x1 to make blocks to take screws to pull the baseboard down onto the new longerons (space the blocks slightly back from the edge of the longerons so that the screws dont pull the baseboard onto the blocks but instead meets the true edge.
I am trying not to think of the ultimate angle-iron solution !!
Edit : I nearly forgot - G cramps and glue the edge for belts&braces, but that is more wing&prayer cos if the situation is really out of hand the glue will just pull off a layer of the baseboard ply if the blocks move :(
That is very good advice there Malcolm, but I think in this case it was the ply that has pulled the frame awry....
The frame was totally square when I checked it, I was actually quite impressed as to just how square it was!!
I fear that a slight warp in the 12mm ply is too strong for the punt 2x1 to straighten out.....
Ill probably just chuck it on the bonfire and make a proper one next time Im doing some woodwork....
I don't know if it will stay ok, but I have just twisted the board back on itself (by hand!!) - and got it pretty close to straight again.....
At least now I know it will go straight, and it could be usable for something....
Interesting! I have used the same construction materials here in Aus which has very big temperature differentials (particularly in my garage), and not had a problem.
I used the "glue and screw" technique - glue the surfaces before screwing them together.
Could this explain non warping? Whenever I hear warping, I tend to think damp. :hmmm:
All this talk of timber and play seems a bit old fashioned! My latest project (G scale not N) uses Styrofoam with ply edging. Note this is Styrofoam from a builders merchants used for floor insulation and not the less dense similar stuff that you get from well known DIY shops. It won't warp or be affected by damp and it is exceeding light. It has a level of fire resistance. Obviously you cant use any solvent based adhesive or oil based paint on it. Thinners just eats straight through it - found this by accident! Surprisingly these boards were cheaper to build than using ply top with timber supports.
This is very much an experiment and learning curve at the moment for me and other club members. There are issues with point motors and wiring if used in N but I think it could well be the way forward, especially for exhibition layouts. I suppose a thin ply top could be added where track is to be laid and then holes cut in the styrofoam for motors. It would also enable the track to be pinned down. I'm sure I will learn a lot over the next few months but I hope it will be successful enough for me to try building a smaller scale layout using Styrofoam at some point in the future.
This is the new layout as it is today at Warley MRC club room. Next stage is to glue the track to the boards - no point trying to pin it on this stuff.
[smg id=36073 type=preview align=center caption="IMG 1506"]
Notice the layout under construction in the background is still using old fashioned techniques!
My usual method is to build a framework of sides and cross-bearers from ply. As I like layouts to have undulations and have land both below and above track height the cross-bearers are profiled to provide the track baseboard support and correct scenery height when being cut. I then cut out ply to form the track bed but leave everything else open. This lives in the shed along with another completed layout and neither has warped.
I realise this doesn't help with pulling your board square but at least it may be helpful to others and give rise to some thoughts for future baseboards.
[smg id=36092 type=preview align=center caption="0182448ad774e2ce59030d597138b2ab5d9a6e6234"]
Quote from: JasonBz on February 29, 2016, 12:22:39 AM
I don't know if it will stay ok, but I have just twisted the board back on itself (by hand!!) - and got it pretty close to straight again.....
At least now I know it will go straight, and it could be usable for something....
Just make sure you varnish/seal both sides of the board to stop it warping.
Quote from: Malc on February 29, 2016, 09:32:44 AM
Quote from: JasonBz on February 29, 2016, 12:22:39 AM
I don't know if it will stay ok, but I have just twisted the board back on itself (by hand!!) - and got it pretty close to straight again.....
At least now I know it will go straight, and it could be usable for something....
Just make sure you varnish/seal both sides of the board to stop it warping.
Exactly that. Varnish everything on all sides and edges before it goes together.
Virtually all wood/wood particulate furniture has a 'balancing' coating or veneer of some sort on the underside or inside.
I've used 2x1 timber with 9mm ply without any major problems although you really have to be choosy when it comes to selecting the batten material.
Hope you get your board sorted so the build can start.
Dave G
This is only intended to keep my test track circle off the floor, so its not totally crucial...
More a case of OMG! when it did warp so much - so much for trying something speedy with what was to hand.
Just as an experiment I am going to use the other half of the ply sheet with 3 x 3/4" which I often use for all sorts of things, and see if the ply pulls that frame out of true.
Normally for a layout I use what ever method suits the situation; I made one in 1996 out of nothing more that foam core and hot glue and the remnants of that are still square today :D
You have to store all the wood for the boards, where it will be used for at least a month before assembly, more if possible. Wood from a DIY store could have been stored in a puddle for all you know and the wood has to change shape before you start to assemble.
NB I have seen layouts stored in a warm dry environment warp in an afternoon in a damp cold village hall so exhibition layouts need to be much tougher.
My baseboard warped. It bowed up in the middle, so I cut vertical slots through the battens, and glued thin wedges in until I had straightened it. It has been fine since. This is a baseboard about 5' x 2'6".
This thread struck a chord as I have just had to scrap a second layout due to warped boards. The first was 9mm ply which I made myself, the second from Sundeala and built by my local model shop. So far chipboard seems to have been the only material that stays straight for me, but of course does not make for a portable layout...
I found a different use for this naughty board (and I don't mean as kindling or landfill!)
I have firmly screwed a 1½ batten to one end, which not surprisingly has brought it all into line...... Its going to become the proposed extension to my 4mm scale layout that is currently being remade :)
This layout is permanent so when all is good Ill screw the thing to the wall :)