A new thread since I have made a bit of a 'bend' in davijhope's printer thread...
After taking a basic interest in the subject of cutting machines (my ex had a Cricut for greeting card making) I discovered that these things are used in this hobby for making layout buildings and structures. I looked at the various threads for a long time and followed up by hunting the net, finally deciding that the Zing machines looked to be the best for the purpose. So, I bought one.
What I now see is what looks like a growing interest in the machines. I am wondering how many people on here actually have one now or are planning to get one.
The main software package in use with these machine seems to be 'Make The Cut' but there are some(?) others around.
I wonder if there could be an interest and a willingness to share files?
So, do you have or plan to get a machine (which one), what software does it use and what do you think about possibly sharing some files???
I use Techsoft 2D Design for the projects I have. At my work we have a Roland cutter, laser cutter and 3D printer - which can all use the software. I'm just a beginner though!
Edit:-
Little video of my first go at the laser cutter. I'm making platform shelters...
http://www.youtube.com/embed/tIRkPG3yYlg (http://www.youtube.com/embed/tIRkPG3yYlg)
(http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/10/thumb_33382.jpg) (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=33382)
(http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/10/thumb_33385.jpg) (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=33385)
Quote from: Zogbert Splod on January 31, 2016, 06:05:43 PM
A new thread since I have made a bit of a 'bend' in davijhope's printer thread...
After taking a basic interest in the subject of cutting machines (my ex had a Cricut for greeting card making) I discovered that these things are used in this hobby for making layout buildings and structures. I looked at the various threads for a long time and followed up by hunting the net, finally deciding that the Zing machines looked to be the best for the purpose. So, I bought one.
At the risk of 'bending' your thread ;D
Perhaps you could tell us numpties who know nowt yet, what did you look at and what did you discover about "best" that made you chose a/the Zing.
I did start googling, honest, but my first hit was Amazon 'out of stock' :( and it didnt get much better with the manuf. site list of suppliers.
:thumbsup: :wave:
^^ "Perhaps you could tell us numpties who know nowt yet," *
* For example I thought these cutter thingies used blades but the Zing is a laser ? or did i get my eyes xxed
I have a Silhouette Portrait (can be picked up for around £100) with Inkscape (free vector graphics program) or the software that came with it.
Cheers
Mike
This chart although not new, does compare most machines
http://www.paperthreads.com/bonus/paperthreads_machine_compare_112008.html (http://www.paperthreads.com/bonus/paperthreads_machine_compare_112008.html)
I've had a hunt for something more recent so far no joy. The Zing does use a blade, a laser cutter is similar in concept but probably a lot dearer, it will however cut things that a plotter cutter blade can not. Wood for example.
My reasons for choosing the Zing, it can cut much thicker material than most of the cheaper machines, I've cut Slaters embossed plastikard, and mounting board (thick heavy card) It is also claimed (though I have not tried it) to cut fabric, leather and balsa.
As well as cutting thicker material it also cuts thinner material faster. I've cut and built quite a few terrace houses, 2 blocks of 6 houses will fit on an A4 sheet, using medium card the Zing does it in under 10 minutes.
It also has heads for embossing and a pen, which is very handy for initial learning and subsequently can also be used to check that you are setting the start point for a sheet such that the cut does not go beyond the edge of the material. It is possible to set the registration very accurately but for most buildings we are likely to model that should not be essential.
The MTC software is easy to use, has quite a library of shapes, example for a terraced house I start with a rectangle, to size it just pull on the sides or corners with the mouse, there is a grid using Imperial inches, when you have a front and end wall to size fetch a triangle, size it and join it to the end wall for a gable.
I would suggest for a start take measurements of a Metcalfe or Scalescenes kit and use them as a rough guide to lengths and heights etc. I usually export the basic shape as a jpg to an image/photo editing programme to add door and window openings, I usually use Etched brass windows and doors, scan one of each size you intend to use, convert the scanned image to a blank white rectangle,then copy/paste onto your walls, Once you have one wall done, just copy/paste to fill your page, until you have something like this
[smg id=19907]
Export back to the cutter software make sure it is centred on the sheet , (first few times use a sheet of paper and the pen in place of the blade, saves messing up a sheet of card)
I print my brick or stone onto A4 label stock and stick that to the card, most printers don't like printing on card.
If you have a very detailed building with quoins or fancy door and window surrounds then I cut plain card then stick carefully cut out walls (with scissors or craft knife) onto the cut card.
Some kits have quoins separate so you could scan and cut them from printed label or thin card and stick over the corners. It might take a bit of trial and error to cut the quoins accurately, or you could take the time to get registration spot on
With the walls in the image in the previous post you could make thos up as 2 complete terraces or 4 low relief by cutting half the gable off and transferring to the other end, either at the image editing stage or after cutting with scissors or a craft knife.
You can also do a bit of image editing to make some rear kitchen extensions for the back
[smg id=19908]
A bit of imagination can add porches or bay windows, although for the latter I usually use cast ones from Scalelink, also Dormers from the same place, as in this lo relief block
[smg id=20567]
Doors and windows from Peedie models
Mike, excellent thank you.
Good chart link as well,
ok I'll continue Googling for one of these Zing things >>
( I mustav got my eyes xxed on the Zing Home Site, to one of their other laser models then, did sound a little exotic at the time !! )
Just had a thought (yes it was lonely all there by itself) I did this exercise just over a year ago
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=25428.msg272785#msg272785 (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=25428.msg272785#msg272785)
I see they don't expect ant new ones before April, also price has gone up, I paid £300 2 years ago, now £435, none currently on Ebay nor Gumtree.
Quote from: MalcolmAL on January 31, 2016, 07:07:28 PM
Quote from: Zogbert Splod on January 31, 2016, 06:05:43 PM
A new thread since I have made a bit of a 'bend' in davijhope's printer thread...
After taking a basic interest in the subject of cutting machines (my ex had a Cricut for greeting card making) I discovered that these things are used in this hobby for making layout buildings and structures. I looked at the various threads for a long time and followed up by hunting the net, finally deciding that the Zing machines looked to be the best for the purpose. So, I bought one.
At the risk of 'bending' your thread ;D
Perhaps you could tell us numpties who know nowt yet, what did you look at and what did you discover about "best" that made you chose a/the Zing.
I did start googling, honest, but my first hit was Amazon 'out of stock' :( and it didnt get much better with the manuf. site list of suppliers.
:thumbsup: :wave:
Please feel free to 'bend it' as much as you wish! (ooh-er Missus!)
Mike has already covered much of what I will say, however, here we go! Yeah, the Zing Air is the machine that I have and it is a blade based cutter. It has a variety of blades and attachments available. Bladewise these are blades for paper, card, fabric and believe it or not, fondant icing. There are attachments for engraving and creasing, possibly others too. It is possible to use pens with the machine also and I am currently waiting for some thin line paint pens to arrive and I will try using those to draw window frames on acetate in the style of the Metcalfe kits.
Oh, while I think on it: The 'Air' part of the model name refers to the fact that it can be driven via Bluetooth, and that it can be controlled by voice. This is in addition to a more conventional approach using USB and the computer keyboard/mouse.
For me, the 'best' thing was the force in the 'Z' axis which, while it is settable through the software, is the highest available in all of the hobby grade machines. I have found that this makes cutting the thicker materials much easier.
Another important thing for me, remember that my only experience prior was with the Cricut (cartridge based mainly), was the design of the machine such as to be completely software driven.
I have found the machine to be accurate and repeatable in use with one gottcha. That is this: When using card from a product carton that has been glazed, the drive rollers can slip. I have found this only to matter if you need to overlay two pieces cut separately as the misalignment is marginal (in the order of a fraction of a mm.)
I find the software to be quirky, at least for my purposes. It is aimed at the type of ladies who make greetings cards and who do lots of what is called scrap booking these days. I am more used to a CAD type interface.
If some of the above seems less than complimentary, please understand that I include it only for completeness. I am full of praise for the machine and for the support that the supplier has shown.
I use the word supplier with reservation as it would seem that there are, currently, none available to supply!!! I did try to go down the eBay route when I first looked for a machine but found, from the various craft forums, that no one who has one wants to sell it. That was part of my decision making input.
Mike's link
below above covers a huge amount of ground, but if there are any other specifics that come to mind, please feel free to 'bend' the thread as you see fit.
Regards, Allan...
'scuse me while I go Zing!
Hi bought a Zing for the wife to use for her dolls house miniatures business (MiddleMumsMiniatures) a couple of years ago but to be honest we have not got on with it very well. The first machine we got had to go back to the supplier as the laser did not work. We are still trying to get to grips with the second and even our computer savvy son is having difficulties.
MalcolmAL you may be getting confused because one of the Zing models use a laser to aligning the blade when using 'print and cut' (PAC)- with this you can make your design in the Zing program then send it to your printer. After printing you then put the sheet on the Zing's backing sheet and load it into the cutter. The machine is then callibrated using pre printed markers and the laser so that it will cut your design in the right place. Think of printing a BR Totem sign with a station name in the centre for example.
'Make the cut' (MTC) is slightly different in that it will cut the shape exactly where it is on the paper similar to Dorsetmike's silhouettes. In this case the laser is used to set the bottom right hand corner of the sheet of paper. This bit we have mastered.
There are numerous tutorials on Utube for the Zing.
Perhaps our intended use of the machine in the dolls house accessories market is a little more intricate than model railway structures, even in N Gauge.
Good points there ColinH. I admit that I did find the learning curve to be quite steep as there is not much available by way of a manual either for the machine or the software. What there is has to be downloaded or looked at on line.
I do have that habit that so many of us who stand up to pee have, I hate to read the manual anyhow. But, I did learn, eventually, that if I did look for what I needed to do and then worked through the steps (ALL of the steps) then I would get where I wanted to go.
I have found that setting the depth of cut and the blade/media gap (stack of PostIt notes) is CRITICAL but easy to apply after a short practice.
Hope you get around your issues with the machine but if not, and you want to get rid of it, I feel sure you will have no problem doing so.
Regards, Allan.....
@ColinH (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=3088)
I find the most useful pages of the manual start at Page 44, a table of settings for blade pressure, speed, blade height, number of passes which blade to use for loads of different materials, many of them American brand names, but most can be equated with UK stuff. There is also a blank table on page 43 so you can list your own preferred settings for materials you frequently use.
With some of the American branded materials I sometimes try the settings on what seems like the nearest UK equivalent, and make a note of ones that work and what they work with.
The plastic mat needs an occasional wash and respraying with adhesive, it needs to be one of the "stays tacky" or "repositionable" types, there are some which grip too well, and you can't get the material off after cutting and after a day or two it is no longer sticky, as though it has dried out or set. I also like to sellotape all round the edge of the materials like plastikard which doesn't stick to the mat as well as card.
Thanks all, very interesting, a whole new field to explore !
(I have archived y'all to flashUSB :) )
Quote from: ColinH on January 31, 2016, 09:50:19 PM
MalcolmAL you may be getting confused because one of the Zing models use a laser to aligning
Thanks Colin, yes I suspected that may have been so, (easy these days ;)
but I must say, not helped by the manuf. site which was more floss and are-we-not-good over basic info, not helped by their limited 'Suppliers' info,, which linked to a previously unknown company not far distant from me,* which equally engaged in floss with nothing substantive ( April ! Pah! no wonder China is doing so well (rel.) )
* I may go round there Mon. and give a piece of my mind, , aka offer my services !
, , maybe not ;) they couldnt afford me on their present showing! LOL !
One point that has come to mind; when printing brick/stone/tile paper or label make sure you use the same orientation (I prefer landscape) when cutting out buildings, vertical brick courses don't look quite right!
I made the mistake of trying to squeeze in some extra bits on the end of the sheet (porches IIRC) but put them at 90 degrees to the rest of the parts - one of the mistakes I learnt from!
Quote from: Dorsetmike on February 10, 2016, 07:29:59 PM
One point that has come to mind; when printing brick/stone/tile paper or label make sure you use the same orientation (I prefer landscape) when cutting out buildings, vertical brick courses don't look quite right!
I made the mistake of trying to squeeze in some extra bits on the end of the sheet (porches IIRC) but put them at 90 degrees to the rest of the parts - one of the mistakes I learnt from!
I am so glad that I am not the only one who has done that! :laugh: Thanks for admitting that you have done it too.
the Cricut is on offer here:
£142
https://www.stuff4crafts.com/cricut-explore-one-machine-2002832.html?currency=GBP&CAWELAID=120018150000668379&gclid=CK3Fnv2G_MoCFYIW0wodIX4JeQ (https://www.stuff4crafts.com/cricut-explore-one-machine-2002832.html?currency=GBP&CAWELAID=120018150000668379&gclid=CK3Fnv2G_MoCFYIW0wodIX4JeQ)
any thoughts??
I've been thinking about getting one of these :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vBntqVrhCYM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vBntqVrhCYM)
It says in the blurb that it can cut up to 350gsm card, so the 20thou embossed and plain pasticard should be a doddle.
http://www.silhouettecameo.co.uk/silhouette-cameo-2.html (http://www.silhouettecameo.co.uk/silhouette-cameo-2.html)
Re the Cricut;
Some of the reviews on Amazon are a bit scathing of the cloud based software, for most of the functions you have to pay after the first month and unless you are based in the USA the subscription is annually not monthly.
It also means having a good internet connection as some users reported numerous crashes losing all their current work.
Another mentions that it will not recognise UK paper sizes like A4, also little if any scope for designing your own work, seems you have to use their designs which you have to pay for after the first month.
I think this review sums up the gripes
QuoteIn summary. If you live in the USA and just want to reproduce the projects provided - great. If you live in the UK and want to personalise your projects - think very carefully about buying the Cricut Explore.
Quote from: Railwaygun on February 16, 2016, 10:19:24 AM
any thoughts??
It may be priced in UK £, but you're buying from Grand Rapids, Michigan ... And they seem
not to actually list a proper address, merely the town & state ...
Further to the Cricut, reading the shipping details, any taxes/duties are added at checkout, shipping costs are also calculated at checkout, delivery up to 3 weeks
Amazon free delivery
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cricut-Explore-Cutting-Design-Draw-Cut-Craft-software/dp/B00JQ39KLM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1455624814&sr=8-1&keywords=cricut+explore (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cricut-Explore-Cutting-Design-Draw-Cut-Craft-software/dp/B00JQ39KLM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1455624814&sr=8-1&keywords=cricut+explore)
Quote from: Dorsetmike on February 16, 2016, 12:16:36 PM
Further to the Cricut, reading the shipping details, any taxes/duties are added at checkout, shipping costs are also calculated at checkout, delivery up to 3 weeks
Amazon free delivery
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cricut-Explore-Cutting-Design-Draw-Cut-Craft-software/dp/B00JQ39KLM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1455624814&sr=8-1&keywords=cricut+explore (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cricut-Explore-Cutting-Design-Draw-Cut-Craft-software/dp/B00JQ39KLM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1455624814&sr=8-1&keywords=cricut+explore)
If it's coming from the US, it will be free of their local taxes, however HMRC will charge VAT at 20%, and Royal Mail will charge an £8 handling fee. Please note that RM at the present to not do bank or credit cards at the collection window, it's Cash or Cheque only, and you will need ID, driving licence is best
Quote from their shipping details
QuoteInternational Shipping to Canada & UK
No taxes at your door and no duty fees! We charge you the tax upon checkout to save you from the hassle of paying at your door. All orders will be shipped by DHL. All shipments will be sent out within 2 - 3 days and will take between 5 and 20 business days depending on the size of the order to be delivered.
Quote from: Dorsetmike on February 16, 2016, 01:25:19 PM
Quote from their shipping details
QuoteInternational Shipping to Canada & UK
No taxes at your door and no duty fees! We charge you the tax upon checkout to save you from the hassle of paying at your door. All orders will be shipped by DHL. All shipments will be sent out within 2 - 3 days and will take between 5 and 20 business days depending on the size of the order to be delivered.
Yep and I have to stand at the office window and explain that bull manure about ten times a day, if the product is over $20 in value it will still attract VAT at 20%, even if local taxes in the States have been paid. The EU have recently enforced it due to heavy taxation on EU goods imported to the States.
The Cricut was the first one of these things I ever saw and used. The software that used to be supplied with the machine was an earlier version of 'Make The Cut' but at some point there must have been a falling out. The MTC web site now clearly state that they no longer support Cricut.
The one that I used belonged to my ex and was mainly a cartridge based unit. Fonts and shapes could be bought on cartridges with a theme - Christmas, Thanksgiving, Birthday and various font cartridges. The cartridges were NOT cheap! Someone did bring out an interface that would allow the machine to cut designs created in Inkscape. Cricut then announced that using this method with the machine could seriously harm it. They said that the USB port was only for testing and updating the firmware. They have now gone over to an expensive web based interface. Hmmmmm..... :thumbsdown:
Quote from: Dorsetmike on February 16, 2016, 11:26:37 AM
Re the Cricut;
Some of the reviews on Amazon are a bit scathing of the cloud based software, for most of the functions you have to pay after the first month and unless you are based in the USA the subscription is annually not monthly.
It also means having a good internet connection as some users reported numerous crashes losing all their current work.
Another mentions that it will not recognise UK paper sizes like A4, also little if any scope for designing your own work, seems you have to use their designs which you have to pay for after the first month.
I think this review sums up the gripes
QuoteIn summary. If you live in the USA and just want to reproduce the projects provided - great. If you live in the UK and want to personalise your projects - think very carefully about buying the Cricut Explore.
I actually bought a Cricut Explore, and I can say that you can upload and cut out custom shapes, and quite easily via the "New Project" selection, it virtually holds your hand with step by step instructions as you go.
You do have to calibrate the machine to your printer so that it recognises the cut guides, and that can be a bit of trial, but once set up, it's save and forget until you change the printer.
Within half an hour of opening the box I had cut out a custom design.
I'm now going to try and progress with it, mainly to see if I can cut 20thou plasticard to make buildings and walls.
If anyone has any advice on setting it up, I'd be grateful.
:bump: an old post @Graham Walters (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=4512)
Did you ever test the Cricut on Plasticard Graham? The reason I ask is that I have received an email from 'Hobbycraft' advertising the Cricut for £325. Having read the original thread, can you, or anyone for that matter, recommend the Cricut? :beers:
Quote from: dannyboy on March 21, 2019, 07:31:15 PM
:bump: an old post @Graham Walters (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=4512)
Did you ever test the Cricut on Plasticard Graham? The reason I ask is that I have received an email from 'Hobbycraft' advertising the Cricut for £325. Having read the original thread, can you, or anyone for that matter, recommend the Cricut? :beers:
My experience was that it wouldn't actually cut it out, but it would score it enough to enable you to use a scalpel and make more accurate cuts, be wary that it will only do this on the thinnest plasticard
@Graham Walters (https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=4512) :thankyousign: Graham. Having read the full thread, I think I will give it a miss and stick with the steel rule and knife approach. :beers:
You can get the silhouette portrait for less than half that price. It will cut thin plasticard and score thicker (up to 40 thou) plasticard well enough to then snap out the pieces.
Cheers mike
After 6 years my KNK Zing has developed a fault in the USB connection, currently awaiting news of the repair. I have never had a problem cutting any material so far, the MTC software is easy to use and versatile, I would seriously consider buying another if a repair is not posible.
Further to the above, failed to get sorted, sounds like it needs a new PCB, or the one currently fitted to go back to makers, which is in USA; so bought another on Ebay, slightly later model, but about half the price of a new one.
QuoteAfter 6 years my KNK Zing has developed a fault in the USB connection
if its just the connector i'd be tempted to cut the connector of the cable and solder it direct to the pcb
Checked with more than one cable, also checked on laptop as well as PC, one pin of connector on PCB was loose and resoldered, still the same, so diagnosis points to the USB interface chip which being a surface mount item is something I am not equiped to deal with even if I could decipher the chip type.
Think I may have sussed it, the USB socket on the back of the machine is upside down, cable plugs in either way but looking at the socket the slight curve is at the bottom (it's one of those almost square ones) so plugging in wrong way will have put the USB power to the wrong pin on the chip which probably won't have done it any good.
When the cable is connected correctly the machine does show in control panel as a USB UART FTR232R, but not working.
Hi Mike,
Seems sad that for such a costly machine you are allowed to plug the USB in the wrong way and effective may have damaged the unit.
Bad design flaw i.m.o.
Machinne from Ebay arrived, took an age to unpack, loadsa tape. Enough spare blades to see me out. Anybody want my old one, (offers?) only needs a USB chip (FT232RL) buying and fitting!