Friends, trying to think positively and into the future.
I must replace my VERY heavy baseboard with something light enough to suspend from the ceiling on pulleys.
Why, because I have tried 2 different methods for the access gap. duck-under and removable bridge, both unsatisfactory.
I am thinking of employing one or other of those companies that construct bespoke baseboards.
Has anyone first hand experience of trustworthy companies?
Peter.
Hi Peter,
Nice to see you posting again. Glad to see you are being positive and hope you are coping with your pain ok. I can't help you with your question but very cleverly worded.
Best regards
Dave
Quote from: petercharlesfagg on December 06, 2015, 05:41:47 PM
Friends, trying to think positively and into the future.
I must replace my VERY heavy baseboard with something light enough to suspend from the ceiling on pulleys.
Why, because I have tried 2 different methods for the access gap. duck-under and removable bridge, both unsatisfactory.
I am thinking of employing one or other of those companies that construct bespoke baseboards.
Has anyone first hand experience of trustworthy companies?
Peter.
Just a thought Peter but colpatben was demonstrating his layout using Woodland Scenics Mod-U-Rail which looks like light weight stuff.
Link here...http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=24152.msg345791#msg345791 (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=24152.msg345791#msg345791)
Might be worth following up - I don't know much about this stuff.
:beers:
Hi I have used this company the boards are very light
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Model-Railway-Baseboards-Precision-Engineered-Modular-Laser-Cut-Base-Boards-/381464976358?hash=item58d1159be6:g:R2gAAOSwkNZUgzGI (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Model-Railway-Baseboards-Precision-Engineered-Modular-Laser-Cut-Base-Boards-/381464976358?hash=item58d1159be6:g:R2gAAOSwkNZUgzGI)
Quote from: fatso on December 06, 2015, 06:22:32 PM
Hi I have used this company the boards are very light
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Model-Railway-Baseboards-Precision-Engineered-Modular-Laser-Cut-Base-Boards-/381464976358?hash=item58d1159be6:g:R2gAAOSwkNZUgzGI (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Model-Railway-Baseboards-Precision-Engineered-Modular-Laser-Cut-Base-Boards-/381464976358?hash=item58d1159be6:g:R2gAAOSwkNZUgzGI)
They look pretty good Fatso and not too expensive - Nice!! Too late for me I've used industrial scale woodwork for my baseboards!!
:) :beers:
This how the boards arrive in kit form takes 30mins to build
[smg id=32613 type=full align=center caption="untitled"]
[smg id=32614 type=full align=center caption="untitled 2"]
[smg id=32615 type=preview align=center caption="untitled3"]
Probably your best bet is 2"/50mm thick Celotex insulation foam board on a light framework. Celotex is not messy like the plain white polystyrene foam which generates a snow storm of white bits when cut; unless you use a very sharp carving type knife. I've used both, would definitely recommend the Celotex.
Celotex 2400x1200x50mm £25.41, White polystyrene same size £15.40 both from Wickes
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Products/Building-Materials/Insulation/Insulation-Boards/c/1000272 (http://www.wickes.co.uk/Products/Building-Materials/Insulation/Insulation-Boards/c/1000272)
I used a timber frame supporting fibre board (could also use hardboard) you could also use Aluminium angle for framework, that might be better for a suspended from the ceiling job.
Mine sits on some kitchen units, handy cupboard and drawer space.
See my layout thread from page 3 onwards
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=26311.30 (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=26311.30)
As foam does not hold track pins too well I've used cork tile for track bed, if you use copydex then you may not need pins thus skip the cork. You could cut the cork into strips to just go under the track.
Wiring is best done by cutting grooves in the foam surface, I also use wire in tube for point operation, that also gets hidden in a groove. Scenic work will cover the grooves.
Only problem with a foam base comes when you want to motorise a Peco turntable, bite the financial bullet and get a Kato one.
Any off cuts of foam can be used as a base for scenery, it's easy to carve to shape.
Might be an idea to look out for one of those old fashioned indoor washing line, get the pulleys etc.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Classic-Clothes-Airer-Black-3-11ft/dp/B001P84NEK/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449428045&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=old+type+suspended+indoor+washing+line (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Classic-Clothes-Airer-Black-3-11ft/dp/B001P84NEK/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449428045&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=old+type+suspended+indoor+washing+line)
What glue do people use (and pins) to hold these laser cut boards together?
There appears to be very little to hold it all in place....Then again I tend to over engineer wooden stuff cos wood is cheaper than stress!
Quote from: JasonBz on December 06, 2015, 07:00:59 PM
What glue do people use (and pins) to hold these laser cut boards together?
There appears to be very little to hold it all in place....Then again I tend to over engineer wooden stuff cos wood is cheaper than stress!
Hi used waterproof wood glue pva and fine panel pins I find the units very robust
Quote from: fatso on December 06, 2015, 07:10:26 PM
Quote from: JasonBz on December 06, 2015, 07:00:59 PM
What glue do people use (and pins) to hold these laser cut boards together?
There appears to be very little to hold it all in place....Then again I tend to over engineer wooden stuff cos wood is cheaper than stress!
Hi used waterproof wood glue pva and fine panel pins I find the units very robust
Thanks for the info :)
I would just point from other posts out the "polystyrene" and Celotex / Kingspan are structurally
nothing like each other.
If you wish to use one as a baseboard go fot Celotex with a frame of plywood, and maybe a top of the same....I'm never sure where "track-pins" come into it...They are for Hornby style train sets not model railways.
Quote.I'm never sure where "track-pins" come into it.
Some of us use them to hold track in place prior to gluing or ballasting :whistle:
Sorry, I was more thinking of those little black nails that are sold to hold the track down in perpetuity......Those that one sees in adverts being affixed with a large ball pein hammer to the middle of the poor sleeper.
Quote from: fatso on December 06, 2015, 06:22:32 PM
Hi I have used this company the boards are very light
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Model-Railway-Baseboards-Precision-Engineered-Modular-Laser-Cut-Base-Boards-/381464976358?hash=item58d1159be6:g:R2gAAOSwkNZUgzGI (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Model-Railway-Baseboards-Precision-Engineered-Modular-Laser-Cut-Base-Boards-/381464976358?hash=item58d1159be6:g:R2gAAOSwkNZUgzGI)
I`ll go along with fatso on this. The boards are very easy to construct and make a lightweight board in a very short time.
White wood working glue is ideal for all the joints. I believe the manufactures will produce boards to any dimentions for a small (?) added cost.
See my signature for a thread on their products
I shall certainly be getting a couple of extra boards (and legs) some when in the new year.
(edit) Of course Model Railway Solutions also produce a superb range of baseboards but they are far heavier construction so may not be a viable solution
Quote from: JasonBz on December 06, 2015, 09:27:43 PM
Sorry, I was more thinking of those little black nails that are sold to hold the track down in perpetuity......Those that one sees in adverts being affixed with a large ball pein hammer to the middle of the poor sleeper.
Nothing wrong with those either!! The Peco pins are virtually invisible unless you search for them with a magnifying glass. If you use a soft baseboard material you can push them in with pliers. If you use a ply baseboard you can use a pilot hole and a SMALL pin hammer with a pin punch to put them in.
:confused2: :hmmm:
Peter.
I have posted this review that may be of interest.
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=30929.0 (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=30929.0)
Best Regards
Colin
Quote from: colpatben on December 19, 2015, 12:25:39 PM
Peter.
I have posted this review that may be of interest.
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=30929.0 (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=30929.0)
Best Regards
Colin
Colin, thank you for bringing the thread back on course and the very useful suggestion, certainly another one to consider when I have sold my car and have some cash at my disposal!
Warmest regards. Peter.
Hello Peter
Unable to contribute to your thread but welcome back!
All the best for Christmas and the New Year.
Dave G
Nice to see you are back Peter.
Jerry
Yes its good to see you posting again Peter.
I hope you are somewhat better now :)
Screw through into ceiling or floor joists and suspend from those. Then you can have a normal baseboard.
If ceiling joists are suspect, you can double up in the loft etc
(I am a Chartered Civil/Structural Engineer before anyone accuses me of being a bit dodgy!)
Just trying to turn the problem on its head and offer a lateral solution :laugh:
Quote from: Firefox on December 23, 2015, 04:21:52 AM
Screw through into ceiling or floor joists and suspend from those. Then you can have a normal baseboard.
If ceiling joists are suspect, you can double up in the loft etc
(I am a Chartered Civil/Structural Engineer before anyone accuses me of being a bit dodgy!)
Just trying to turn the problem on its head and offer a lateral solution :laugh:
Thank you for your thoughts. In my original thread post this IS the idea, as for roof joists there are only the joists as fitted into my timber workshop, there is no loft!
Anyway, as a structural engineer perhaps you could answer a different but connected question?
Given that the roof ceiling joists are 50 x 80 mm with a 10 foot span and that the pulleys are likely to be approximately 6 feet apart, what sort of maximum weight of baseboard would be advisable not to exceed?
I realise that much is hypothetical but there muse be an average somewhere?
Regards, Peter.