N Gauge Forum

Dumb and no doubt old question...

Having restarted modelling after a long break, I'll be fixing buildings and scenery down soon.

What do people do about cleaning track that passes through buildings? I have an engine shed and a quarry building that tracks pass through, and I would like to retain the ability to run locos into them from time to time.

I normally clean with a track rubber or alcohol wipe, but that's going to be difficult through the little doors of an engine shed.

Any suggestions? Layout is DCC controlled if that's relevant to any fancy solution.

The Engine shed (at Ford, near Arundle) have little pads which fix to the axles of a wagonand hang down on the track (or maybe coach, perhaps even a steam loco's tender). They are a bit obtrusive to use all the time but occasionally running them through a hard to get at piece of track usually works.

The pads may be available from other places as well. I put alcohol on them and a couple of runs over the track seems to be sufficient.

I use the small pads that fix to the axles as well and find them very effective  :thumbsup:

Cheers John.

My advice would be to not permanently fix down your buildings which have tracks running through. All my goods and engine sheds are movable, so I can get to the track with a decent rubber.

I've tried various pads and track cleaning gimmicks but in my opinion, there's no decent alternative to a good track rubber with some elbow grease behind it. I find that the IPA on pads just leave a smear whereas with a track rubber, you can really get a good shine on the rails.

I take Elliott's point, and I had wondered about leaving them loose myself. But I would prefer to fix them down so as to integrate them into the ground cover better. And the quarry building is quite large and a bit of a devil to get back into position, which will only get worse once I fit its conveyors.

Are these  (http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=GM39&style=main&strType=&Mcode=Gaugemaster+GM39)the pads? I hadn't seen those before.

Perhaps I should buy some and give them a try before finally getting the glue out.

Jeepers - that is a fancy solution. I'll try the £5 approach first!  :)

You might want to look at this thread before using a track rubber:
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=9244.msg97320#msg97320 (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=9244.msg97320#msg97320)

Hi

I too have access to all my track and regularly use a rubber when a loco stutters. This means that tunnels have to have removable tops or sides so you can get to the track.

Dust settling on the track is the main problem and prevention is a good idea. However, I have found that the track does not get dirty much if dust is regularly removed or not allowed to settle. I achieve the latter  by having my layout in a locked shed built in my garage but some sort of cover and regular hoovering would do it just as well. I also regularly remove the gunge that still builds up on rolling stock wheels. I remove this with a finger nail clad in an old linen rag. (Tea towel).

Although I rarely hoover now, I use a tiny low powered  battery vacuum cleaner for scenery and sidings. It has a brush and a nozzle attachment. To vacuum the track I use the vacuuming facility on my Tomix track cleaning machine. This works quite well. I have foam underlay ballast.  Very rarely I use the Tomix spinning discs with track cleaning fluid but this does leave a residue that I clean off with a rag.

Cheers

Mac :beers:

Quote from: Nick on October 27, 2015, 03:43:54 PM

Are these  (http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=GM39&style=main&strType=&Mcode=Gaugemaster+GM39)the pads? I hadn't seen those before.

Perhaps I should buy some and give them a try before finally getting the glue out.

Those are the very ones. I put it on the rear axle with the pad between the two axles, that way it gets some downward pressure as it travels along.

Cheers John.

I'm not a fan of any abrasive (including track rubbers). Any benefits in terms of "shine" tend to be lost in scratching the surface which picks up more dirt in the scratches.

IPA on a cloth is good.  Paper/card is good as well - paper particularly useful for cleaning between point blades and rails (insert paper while open, close and remove paper to clean - repeat as necessary).

One of the most important things is to check that your wheels are clean and not spreading dirt around the layout!

Cheers, Mike

Quote from: Only Me on October 27, 2015, 03:41:36 PM
Heres the fancy solution.....

http://dapol.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=310 (http://dapol.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=310)

Sprintex  made a "How To" document to fit a DCC decoder to it :)

Fixing the decoder yourself is quite tricky, not least because of the need to get a replacement PCB. DM-Toys in Germany will supply the Tomix track cleaner with DCC already fitted (a D&H 05 fitted by their technician):
http://www.en.dm-toys.de/produktdetails/items/Tomix-6421.html (http://www.en.dm-toys.de/produktdetails/items/Tomix-6421.html)

Is this the guide you mean?
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=865.0 (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=865.0)

As I understand it from this guide, the PCB has to be trimmed and the decoder hardwired in, which of course means soldering. I am happy with soldering in general but rather nervous about trying it so close to all that plastic detail. The alternative is to remove the yoke from the model and then fit it back.

It does not strike me as being a particularly easy fix although some of the posters reckon it can all be done in an hour. I'm glad I paid DM-Toys a few extra euros to fit it for me!

Or fit a replacement PCB with a 6-pin socket from Modellbahnshoppe;
http://www.modellbahnshop-lippe.com/produkt/Tomix/33-2-0-4850-001007005-0-0-0-0-2-0-grp-gb-p-0/ein_produkt.html (http://www.modellbahnshop-lippe.com/produkt/Tomix/33-2-0-4850-001007005-0-0-0-0-2-0-grp-gb-p-0/ein_produkt.html)

Quote from: scotsoft on October 27, 2015, 03:28:26 PM
I use the small pads that fix to the axles as well and find them very effective  :thumbsup:

Cheers John.

Like these from Gaugemasters  / Kibri

[smg id=30979 type=full align=center caption="image"]

Woodland Scenics do a complete range of track/wheel cleaning items but I'd suggest you don't use their cleaner as it leaves a slippery residue on the track :doh:

So really they're selling bottles of track dirtier... ;-)

Quote from: newportnobby on October 27, 2015, 08:40:33 PM
Woodland Scenics do a complete range of track/wheel cleaning items but I'd suggest you don't use their cleaner as it leaves a slippery residue on the track :doh:

Have you used the Woodland Scenics wheel cleaner for any of your locos or rolling stock? I'm thinking about buying one but I wanted to see if anyone on here has used them with British locos :)

I haven't used one in anger as I went with the more simple (and a lot cheaper!) method as described here. It has the added benefit most of us have the necessary items to hand:-
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=913.0 (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=913.0)

Fleischmann do a little track cleaning loco with track cleaning discs, and I also own a Tomix rail grinder which has wheels made from lighter wheels( apparently) .

It beats as it. Sweeps as it cleans! And may scallop your rails!!

Quote from: Only Me on October 28, 2015, 08:39:14 PM
I find 80 grid sand paper to be quite adequate and then use the dremel polisher attachment afterwards.

80 grid sounds way too harsh. I'd be thinking around the 240 grit or more if you do plan to use sandpaper.

Quote from: Only Me on October 28, 2015, 08:39:14 PM
I find 80 grid sand paper to be quite adequate and then use the dremel polisher attachment afterwards.

And there was me wondering how to fit a dremel under the bridge without disturbing the scatter . . .

You should have posted this on April 1st !

Quote from: newportnobby on October 28, 2015, 08:18:22 PM
I haven't used one in anger as I went with the more simple (and a lot cheaper!) method as described here. It has the added benefit most of us have the necessary items to hand:-
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=913.0 (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=913.0)

:dunce: I feel like I should have thought of that.... Especially after watching how the WS one works... Thanks very much! @newportnobby (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=264) to the rescue again! :NGaugersRule:

Also, @Railwaygun (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=941) , I'd love one of those little Fleischman locos but I'm terrified of having to buy replacement pads for it from the US! If it is the little tram I'm thinking of, it is adorable on a layout though!

You can buy the pads quite easily from eBay.   ;)

Also, @Railwaygun (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=941) , I'd love one of those little Fleischman locos but I'm terrified of having to buy replacement pads for it from the US! If it is the little tram I'm thinking of, it is adorable on a layout though!

Any Fleischmann dealer should be able to help, or DM Toys / Modellbahn Lippe in Germany. Also seen them on eBay

http://youtu.be/UW_5IJOaVWs (http://youtu.be/UW_5IJOaVWs)

Loco 7969

Fleischmann SPARE 357969 (S) Spare cleaning pads for track cleaning loco (N GAUGE)


Pads UK

http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=FM357969 (http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=FM357969)
60p ( 1$)

I could always post a set.

Thanks for all the input, guys.

If I go with the Dremel and the 80 grade sandpaper solution, I suppose I'll have to buy one of those Flex Shaft  (https://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pages/ToolDetail.aspx?pid=225-01#.Vj0F5OFOdPY)things to get inside the Engine Shed...  :D

I've bought some of the pads to attach to axles, and I'll give those a try.

In my heart of hearts, I think I'd be best served by keeping the buildings removable, as was suggested by Ensign Elliot. I just quail a bit at lifting off the quarry building repeatedly. I knocked some stairs off it this afternoon, and I haven't even attached the conveyors yet. This is what it's supposed to look like finished:

(http://www.walthers.com/prodimage/0933/09330000003241.gif)

Quote from: Nick on November 06, 2015, 08:08:35 PM
If I go with the Dremel and the 80 grade sandpaper solution, I suppose I'll have to buy one of those Flex Shaft  (https://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pages/ToolDetail.aspx?pid=225-01#.Vj0F5OFOdPY)things to get inside the Engine Shed...  :D

Aye, that's certainly the way to go ...  You may want to think about one of these  (https://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pages/ToolDetail.aspx?pid=220-01#.Vj0MmJVOeUk)too, for helping to drill through the track webbing; it only tears & melts a little, you can hardly notice it at 2 metres away.

Suggest you practice with both of these add-ons on Only Me's layout, I'm sure he wouldn't mind, but would welcome the assistance.

Quote from: Only Me on November 06, 2015, 08:51:11 PM
Very welcome to come to my house in Syria and have a practice ;)

Thanks for the invite. I'll be round as soon as the Taurus Express starts running to Aleppo again. I gather it's been halted because of a high volume of unplanned demolition works.  :(

I'll bring my Dremel to help put your pictures back on the walls. ;)

If, like me, you use Setrack on hidden curves I would caution VERY strongly against using ANY solvent to clean your track. 

I don't care whether this is isopropyl alcohol supplied by your local school chemistry dept, Track Magic or Slaters.

On three layouts, each cleaned with solvent at the ends I have had Peco Setrack disintegrate on all three.  On one of these (Furtwangen Ost) two generations of Setrack failed before I worked out what the cause was, having gone from proprietory to neat Isopropyl Alochol between the generations.

Sods law applied as usual.  Each time it happened in the middle of a show, the layout only keeping running by applying superglue to the outside of the track where we could reach then not touching anything in the hope it would hold together until the layout got home.  In each case some rolling stock that would not run over the affected part needed to go back into the box.

I now use a Peco track rubber or a piece of wood (square section small dowel will reach a long way into a tunnel or engine shed and do one rail at a time.

Les


Added a pic- this is the most recent failure, under the town on Furtwangen Ost.  You can see bits of the failed track piece- it failed on day one of the three day GCR event this year. Note that to repair it I had to take the end of the layout off - or rather half of it as the other was held in by a carrying handle with a failed thread. An access hole has now been added in case similar happens again.  Isn't hindsight a wonderful thing?