ok...
my track work has quite a few gaps in it.... i know i asked this before and people said not to worry about it as rails expand / contact etc, but the gaps are a bit big!!! they don't cause derailments thank god, but they just look bad imo...
can you use thermic welding to join rails together? is there some other method to close up the gaps?
this is my first layout and i think maybe i was slightly over ambitious with the plan... something smaller to practice on might have been more sensible!!! something using kato track would have probably been better (although i don't like the look of the track...)
cheers
tim
Quote from: bluedepot on December 05, 2011, 08:29:22 PM
ok...
my track work has quite a few gaps in it.... i know i asked this before and people said not to worry about it as rails expand / contact etc, but the gaps are a bit big!!! they don't cause derailments thank god, but they just look bad imo...
can you use thermic welding to join rails together? is there some other method to close up the gaps?
Might be a bit drastic to thermite them !
You can solder them, although if you've got a few gaps and they are not causing the problem I'd leave them alone. It's often not easy to fix one the track is pinned down because you need to move all the rail around to mostly fill the gaps then cut out a piece and relay it the right size.
If you've not pinned it down then you may be able to do it more easily, but a bit of gap here and there isn't uncommon. Stick a bush or a lineside cabinet in the way 8)
hi,
i can move the tracks around a bit as not pinned and only some are glued and painted... the problem is pushing rails together just opens up a gap at the other end!!!
how do you solder sections of rail together? any links to instructions?
lol yeh, maybe 25 relay cabinets could block the view hahaha
tim
I filled a small gap (1.5 - 2mm) with solder using bluetack underneath and either side of the rail to stop the solder running out. Then remove the bluetack. Gentle work with a flat file to level the solder off. Left a good finish.
Ian
nice idea ian
how quickly did u remove the blue-tac?
so i create a mould essentially with the blue-tac, melt some solder into it, then file smooth?
tim
That's it. I left the bluetack about a minute and then removed with tweezers. Seem to remember that hot bluetack doesn't smell too good!
Ian
Quote from: anselm on December 05, 2011, 08:41:15 PM
I filled a small gap (1.5 - 2mm) with solder using bluetack underneath and either side of the rail to stop the solder running out. Then remove the bluetack.
That's genius. I've got a point where I need to fix a dip on the join with the easitrac, now I know how to fix it.
I have a few (smallish) gaps - but I like them because my trains make the clackety-clack sound as they go by.
The soldering idea is neat though.
hurrah! all my track in the scenic section is now painted
tomorrow i am going to try soldering up a few of the gaps, and then on to the ballasting!!!
was going to do some more this evening but got distracted running the new dapol 121 round and round... and now it's a bit late to start a new task...
cheers
tim
You could try gluing plasticard shims in and file it to shape...
the plastic might cause a few power problems
Hi Tim i used plasticard asan option to plastric insulating joiners but you could to fit the gaps in track justthe same soldering unless you are very neat will need good preparation & claenning up which if you use any abrasive to shape any solder scratches will attract dirt.
Here is a how to for using plasticard if you shape it to the profile of the rails a very tiny amount of plasticweld over the final shape helps it blend in well ;D
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=1561.0
soldering is a good idea because you instantly get a nice rail look
Quote from: Rheneas N Gauge on December 08, 2011, 09:12:32 PM
the plastic might cause a few power problems
I would think that as long as you've used metal track joiners and they are tight then there should not be any problems with filling just the gap between the rails with a plastic card shim, as power should still pass through the rail joiner.
yes thats true but track joiners can not be relied in especilaly not for large layouts or places with quite a few point and or isolated sections
I solder short leads to each rail joiner, and then join them into a section feed below the baseboard.
seems to work.
Quote from: class37025 on December 08, 2011, 10:46:40 PM
I solder short leads to each rail joiner, and then join them into a section feed below the baseboard.
seems to work.
I've done this also with literally dozens of track feed points,
I would give a warning to those who's layout isn't kept at ideal temperatures like mine,
If your going to solder your rails together as suggested do it in the summer, right now in the cold my track gaps have opened a touch, and in summer will retract of clogged with solder this could lead to track warping when there's no room for expansion....