Although I am still tinkering with layout planning my thoughts inevitably turn to what rolling stock I might run. I was a firm follower of rule 1 when I modelled in OO with the majority of the stock being steam. I have read review after review after review to the point where I am cross-eyed :confused1:
I am looking for something robust and reliable to play with run around and do some track testing etc., a 0-6-0 or similar? maybe a Jinty? Can anyone suggest a type & manufacturer as a place to start? Would I be better testing with something that has a leading boogey to highlight potential issues?
As always, any opinions or suggestions gladly welcomed! :)
Get a Union Mills loco,solid, robust, reliable, no tanks, all tender, some 0-6-0,
some with with leading bogies.
While Union Mills produce really great, reliable, tough locos, if you're track-testing you'd do better with something like a 2-8-0 (front bogie plus long wheelbase). That'll soon point out any track problems. Stick a few of your most awkward items of rolling stock behind it too. If that lot can make it over your track, everything else will too.
Quote from: Pete33 on February 03, 2015, 01:06:26 PM
While Union Mills produce really great, reliable, tough locos, if you're track-testing you'd do better with something like a 2-8-0 (front bogie plus long wheelbase). That'll soon point out any track problems. Stick a few of your most awkward items of rolling stock behind it too. If that lot can make it over your track, everything else will too.
Oddly my Dapol 2-8-0 GWR 28xx loco will traverse the very worst parts of my layout (1st radius reverse curves) without fuss, it is the Dapol 4-6-0s that I have to watch. And then it is not all of them; 2/3 of my Dapol B1s like my track and one doesn't while the Hall and Manor can't handle 1st radius curves at all. But I don't think they are particularly robust, fairly reliable though apart from one troublesome B1.
The Dapol GWR 2-6-2 Prarie tank engines are good for testing track as you've got a leading and trailing set of wheels in a very small engine. And they don't cost the earth to buy.
But if you want something nice for playing trains I have to say I'm impressed with the new Graham Farish LMS 4F; as found in the Seaside Excursion set (an absolute bargain if you can find it) and soon to be released as a stand-alone item.
Just buy what you like and don't worry about deliberately buying locos to highlight track issues. It might be an idea to not commit to a nailed down, dead-set layout yet though so as your stock expands, you can make any minor adjustments to track as and when issues arise. Or get Kato track and not have many issues at all...
I started out thinking I wanted a early 90s layout, then went back into the 80s and then realised the 70s had a much more interesting variety of rolling stock and diesels. Then the late crest kettles came along with nothing period to pull, so i got some of that and now we're back to about 1957 with an early crest Fairburn 2-6-4 tank loco. Nearly all of my stock is Graham Farish and it's great most of the time. When I first came home with an oval of Kato, a class 47 and 4 hoppers wagons I was very disappointed to find that it was a non-runner, since then, the only failure I've had is a split geared class 37 - maybe buy a loco locally and make sure you can see it run before you take it home to avoid disappointment.
Thanks for all the comments / ideas. Think I will do as suggested and go to my local shop and see what he has and also pop along to the local club to see if anything takes my fancy.
Being new to N I was a little concerned when reading about all the adjustments people made to out of the box loco's and what seems to be a fair returned as faulty rate compared to OO. Have never tinkered much with the gubbings of locos and want to maximize my running time as I have two small nippers and time in the man cave is limited.
I'd go along with John in suggesting the Dapol prarie (2-6-2T) as a guinea pig but if you are careful with track laying and take your time you should be OK.
One point, with a point - try not to put it straight after a curve as this may cause problems - try to fit in a short straight between the curve and the point if possible.