I'm not sure where to post this, so mods feel free to move it somewhere better.
I'm just about to start fitting buffer stops and lights to my layout, using Peco rail builts and Train Tech BL2s. The instructions say that you only need to clip the lights in place, which works fine, lovely and bright! But they don't seem terribly stable in position, and I wonder whether they'll be issues of maintaining contact down the road. I'm thinking about soldering them into position, both to maintain contact, and to stop them springing off and disappearing into the carpet at £5 a go...!
But that's likely to be a tad fiddly as well to get them precisely positioned.
I just wondered if anyone else has experience with them and what you've done?
Thanks
For those not familiar with them, here's a link http://www.train-tech.com/index.php/lighting/buffer-lights/25-bl2-buffer-light-n (http://www.train-tech.com/index.php/lighting/buffer-lights/25-bl2-buffer-light-n)
Nick - I've got some if these for my depot layout. Lovely little addition and I'm really happy with them. To be honest, if they are positioned as per the pic in Caz's link then they should stay where you place them (no danger of wagon / loco knocking them down, since protected by the buffer).
I'm using code 80 track and they are an extremely tight (to the point of being difficult to fit) and so I don't envisage them "going walkies". That said, maybe there's less purchase with code 55, since there's less rail profile above the sleepers to grip it.
I'd see how you get on before soldering them Nick, but only you know how loose they are.
Keep us up to date with what you decide. I've got four and three are working. One isn't but it probably just needs tweaking. To be honest, mine are so tight that they need a lot of pressure to push into the track. It's so much pressure that I feel I'm either going to break them, or something else.
Are you on DC or DCC? I'm DC, so they only come on when the track has a feed to it. On DCC they're on all the time - nice :D
Dan
Had a quick read of the pdf manual on the website and it suggests a little glue if you are worried about them coming adrift. ;)
Quote from: Caz on November 08, 2014, 04:26:21 PM
Had a quick read of the pdf manual on the website and it suggests a little glue if you are worried about them coming adrift. ;)
My goodness, reading manuals... no good ever comes of that sort of nonsense!! ;) (but thanks for pointing it out - I didn't notice it in the sheet with the lights - too keen to fiddle!
Dan - thanks for sharing your experience. I am indeed using Code 55, so perhaps that is why they feel a bit less secure. They certainly weren't hard to fit.
I've had one knocking around for ages, which I bought to try months ago, but didn't fit permanently. Today I happily trotted off to my local emporium and bought up their entire remaining stock.... one more... !! :( Ho hum. I've ordered another five...
I'll see how the current ones go, and make a decision before I fit those. I don't really want to solder them, but neither do I want to be wrestling with poor contacts in a few months time when everything around them is fixed down and it's all more difficult to deal with...
I'm on DCC, and, as you quite rightly say, they stay on permanently as long as the track is powered. And both LEDs are on. I believe that doesn't happen with DC.
Quote from: Nick on November 08, 2014, 05:11:23 PM
I'm on DCC, and, as you quite rightly say, they stay on permanently as long as the track is powered. And both LEDs are on. I believe that doesn't happen with DC.
Stay on permanently? Both LED's on? You guys have never had it so good with yer DCC!
Only ever get one light on mine at a time, and only then when the power's fed to said siding.
Right, after doing some hunter gatherer type of stuff and lighting the fire to keep us warm for the evening, I might be able to crawl back into my cave and play with my DC train set ... oh wait, trains haven't been invented yet ;D
Quote from: Nick on November 08, 2014, 05:11:23 PM
Quote from: Caz on November 08, 2014, 04:26:21 PM
Had a quick read of the pdf manual on the website and it suggests a little glue if you are worried about them coming adrift. ;)
My goodness, reading manuals... no good ever comes of that sort of nonsense!! ;) (but thanks for pointing it out - I didn't notice it in the sheet with the lights - too keen to fiddle!
Dan - thanks for sharing your experience. I am indeed using Code 55, so perhaps that is why they feel a bit less secure. They certainly weren't hard to fit.
I've had one knocking around for ages, which I bought to try months ago, but didn't fit permanently. Today I happily trotted off to my local emporium and bought up their entire remaining stock.... one more... !! :( Ho hum. I've ordered another five...
I'll see how the current ones go, and make a decision before I fit those. I don't really want to solder them, but neither do I want to be wrestling with poor contacts in a few months time when everything around them is fixed down and it's all more difficult to deal with...
I'm on DCC, and, as you quite rightly say, they stay on permanently as long as the track is powered. And both LEDs are on. I believe that doesn't happen with DC.
Geominster is a DCC layout, buffer lights on all time power is on but I put three spots pva two on the track to light points and one buffer to light point, holds them snugly and they work well.
Quote from: DesertHound on November 08, 2014, 05:59:25 PM
Right, after doing some hunter gatherer type of stuff and lighting the fire to keep us warm for the evening, I might be able to crawl back into my cave and play with my DC train set ... oh wait, trains haven't been invented yet ;D
Don't worry, I'm sure steam will arrive on the Neander Valley Railway soon.... :)
Quote from: georgehgv on November 08, 2014, 06:07:45 PM
Geominster is a DCC layout, buffer lights on all time power is on but I put three spots pva two on the track to light points and one buffer to light point, holds them snugly and they work well.
Thanks, PVA sounds like an excellent idea...
I have some on my DC layout and both lights are constantly on.
I fitted mine to a Peco ST-2 short straight which is connected to the end of the siding with insulated rail joiners and fed from a 16V AC supply via an on/off switch.
Geoff
After reading through all this with great interest and having a DC layout myself, I had exactly the same thoughts, geoffc!
Just power the things off a separate dedicated supply - then they're on all the time, just like lights in buildings! Heck, you could even wire in a switch to turn 'em on and off!
Dunno what all the fuss is about, really. :thumbsup:
i use a little drop from a hot glue gun to hold mine in place, sets faster than pva... when i did a pva one at the ennd of a station platform, unfortunately gravity took over and it ended up somewhat wonky
I understand about the PVA setting time problem, but how did you manage to use a hot glue gun on such a small object?