It is just over 12 months since I first started modelling in N gauge, and I seem to have broken quite a number of my engines whilst trying to fix them myself when they went wrong rather than return them for repair.
Seems I can't resist taking things apart when they stop working properly, but my repair success rate is at the moment pretty poor.
Living "abroad" means I hate parceling things up and returning them as it is likely to be some time before they are repaired or replacement items come back to me again.
My record of failed & successful repairs I personally have made to-date is as follows (in order of item purchase date) :-
1 - Farish CL08 - Stopped running (grit in gears) - cleaned & fixed.
2 - Farish CL25/3 - " " " " " .
3 - Farish CL47 - Damaged gears – replaced chassis with one from Peters Spares.
4 - Farish CL37 - Stopped running (faulty connection) - Took apart but couldn't fix.
5 - Farish J39 - Stopped running - Took apart Tender drive but couldn't fix.
6 – Farish WD Austerity - Broken exterior drive rods - Removed broken rods – will
only just now run (poorly).
7 - Farish CL24 - Stopped running (grit damaged gear wheels) - acquired new
bogies from BR Lines – now running fine again.
8 - Dapol CL73 - Stopped running (grit again?!) - Took apart but couldn't fix.
9 - Dapol CL37 - Stopped running (making strange noises) – Took apart but no fix.
10 - Dapol CL27 - Stopped running & lights failed – Took apart & fixed and runs but
minus running lights.
11 - Farish CL66 - Stopped running – replaced damaged bogies with new ones
from BR Lines and now fine.
12 - Dapol CL66 - Similar problem to Farish model and it too needs new bogies.
I think quite a number of the above problems where due to me not glueing down ballast properly on my track and it getting sucked up into the gear wheels. I am learning to be a little bit more careful now.
I have probably gone overboard on the number of engines I have purchased, mostly on-line but some at last December's Train Fair in Chester, and some "used" models (from various sources) rather than new ones.
Although the above list is quite extensive, it doesn't include the locomotives I have that have never given me any trouble, and which includes 3 Union Mills models and several more Farish Diesel & Steam engines.
Hopefully the next 12 months will see far fewer problems, how many of you out there on this Forum have broken as many engines as I have when they first started?
As regards Steam locomotives I think I will stick with Union Mills in future, and for Diesel it is going to be Farish although I have nothing against Dapol that I can put my finger on, but they do seem more expensive than their Farish equivalents and to give more problems.
Very soon my children who live in Chester & Chelmsford respectively will be asking me what I want for Xmas, and I am going to suggest some things for my Model Railway, but what I don't yet know as it depends on what comes available between now and then.
Ideally I would like a bigger Storeroom where I could build a bigger Layout, but that is something for the Future, what's on your Xmas List as regards Model Railway items?
Quote from: Tdm on October 16, 2014, 11:51:35 PMwhat's on your Xmas List as regards Model Railway items?
The time and the patience to get my layout into working condition; and the time and the patience to get it working with DCC.
Engines broken - 1.
My Farish HST didn't appreciate nearly eight hours constant running pulling a full rake and burnt its motor out, body was so hot couldn't even pick it up! Replacement motor from Bachmann and it was all OK again, although now suffering from the usual Bachmann split-chassis gremlins, probably due to rubbish power pick-up design. Suffered same pick-up problems with split-chassis Class 31 and 37 and both fixed with a simple couple of wires to bypass using the chassis as part of the circuit ;)
Other than that no problems, all the following have been fine from day 1:
4x Dapol Class 156
2x Farish Class 108
Dapol HST
Farish Class 04 (after pickup adjustment)
Farish (Poole) Flying Scotsman
Farish (Poole) Class 91
Farish Blue Pullman
The only other problem is with an ancient Farish Class 47 cheap from Ebay that I knew had problems, and despite all attempts will not run right. Now got a Lifelike chassis to go in it instead :thumbsup:
Paul
Lost count. Drawer full of 'em. :(
The number aparently with 'grit in the gears' is rather concerning. That suggests the layout is in a location or atmosphere far from ideal for good consistent running.
Rather than trying to 'Fix' the locos, you would be better off fixing the source of the polution to stop it getting in the locos in the first place!
Broken drive rods on the WD also suggests to me either poor handling or poor storage - again the best course of action is preventative action to stop the dammage being incurred.
I've collected about 30 locos over 5 years or so and haven't broken any. They all still run OK.
But then , I don't tinker with them at all.
Many of mine carked it from running all day at exhibitions, but that was the 80s and 90s.... even my Minitrix ones threw traction tyres!
I've dropped one (a Poole era Black 5) and completely wrecked it.
In the early days quite a few locos (and some rolling stock) had detail knocked of when inserting or removing them from foam trays in aluminium stock boxes. The small pieces would snag on the foam and become separated. I don't use these foam trays these days, storing all locomotives and rolling stock in their boxes instead.
I've had a number of failures.
Farish (China) Class 40 split its gears.
Three Ivatt 2 tanks which I couldn't cure of their waddle, or on which the valve gear constantly locked up. All returned to the vendor. I just think this model is a duff design.
Twp Dapol 9Fs (from the first batch), again appalling runners returned for a refund. Again a duff design. I understand that batch 2 locos were better but I've not risked one.
A Dapol Brittania which burnt out the connection between tender and loco, It was replaced by the vendor and the replacement has been fine.
Farish Jinty (China, but not the current model) which I tried to DCC convert and melted through clumsy soldering. I've converted more since with better results.
Having said all of that I have 38 good locos. The only one I'm not happy with is a Farish A1 which has terrible haulage, I plan to add more weight to it to see if that improves matters. If not it will be sold.
Cheers
Dave
Quote from: DCCDave on October 17, 2014, 08:32:09 AM
The only one that I've compromised on my 'no-nonesense' stance is a Farish A1 which has terrible haulage, I plan to add more weight to it to see if that improves matters. If not it will be sold.
Have you fitted both sets of tyred wheels to the tender? if so make sure they are on the rear two tender wheelsets - this should give the maximum haulage capacity for this loco.
Cheers,
Alan
I used to enjoy fixing my Poole era models when I was a teenager. I always got a real buzz from it! Mine were mainly all diesels. Thankfully I've been lucky with the 'newer' loco's that I've bought in the last 10-15 years. Just a couple of Class 150's and an 08 that I needed to fix.
I've not broken that many (I'm not counting failures due to manufacturing defects) but tales of my slip-ups may serve as cautionary tales for N-gauge newbies.
First breakage was a Graham Farish green warship. I didn't notice that the points were set against the loco and it became - briefly - a flying warship. The only damage done was cosmetic but I've never found the windscreen, which popped out when it hit the (thankfully carpeted) floor.
Second breakage was a Chinese made, late model Graham Farish Hall. I had a spare body from a job lot of spares, which I'd given a weathered black finish, and the idea was to swap the bodies and a spare weathered tender to create a running but run-down-looking loco. For some reason the body didn't quite fit the chassis so I abandoned that plan and set about putting back together as the factory intended. But something went wrong as it won't run now, the motor works fine but something is too tight. That one is now in the "to fix sometime" box (I should send it to BR Lines really).
And that's it. I've had some "near miss" failures, usually when I think I can improve the running of a loco. It is usually Poole-Farish style locos, which are simple enough for me to be brave enough to tinker with. The lesson for me is, if it is running well enough then leave well alone!
Have the confidence to have a tinker guys, if your locos aren't sounding or running correctly. I cannot say much about the Chinese stuff but the Poole built Farish is pretty robustly made and you won't break much if you are careful. I broke a pick-up for a Duchess Class once and it just taught me to be that little bit more careful.
Spares still abound so you can always get new parts if you need them (don't chuck out the old components, they'll be useful to somebody one day).
Getting the locos running again (and I mostly work on diesels - I find them not as frustrating as steamers to work on) comes down to time and patience. It can involve assemble, disassembly, re-assembly etc. etc. etc. until you identify or crack the problem. That said, when you do get it right, it is rewarding. Just keep persevering and those Poole Farish can be fixed.
If not then send them to me :D
Ah, forgot to mention - knocked a stock box onto a tiled floor, about five locos fell out. Luckily it was only a foot off the floor to start with. Damage was only cosmetic, but a warning to me nonetheless not to balance stock boxes where they don't belong!
Dan
I don't usually get the chance they come that way (apart Union Mills)
Alan
Quote from: DesertHound on October 17, 2014, 03:09:05 PM
Have the confidence to have a tinker guys, if your locos aren't sounding or running correctly.
Personally I'm still scare witless about actually dismantling any of my motive power units, but as I'm planning on going the DCC route, no doubt I'll have to bite the bullet one day. To which end I'm going to acquire a couple of "junk" locos for practicing on (dunno about the UK but in Japan most model shops have a junk corner with stock which is defective in some way for a very reasonable price).
Quote from: DesertHound on October 17, 2014, 03:09:05 PM
don't chuck out the old components, they'll be useful to somebody one day
Depends very much what components they are. Melted bearings, split gears should be binned and therefore removed from circulation, as I can't see they would ever be of any use to anyone.
Cheers,
Alan
Al
It was a general comment not to throw out old components, I think it goes without saying that if it's a FAILED component, then yes, you would most probably bin it (although some components are repairable).
I replace a lot of components on my locos, most of which haven't failed and will therefore be kept for future use.
Dan
Quote from: DesertHound on October 17, 2014, 07:04:22 PM
I replace a lot of components on my locos, most of which haven't failed and will therefore be kept for future use.
Why? If they still function then seems strange :confused1: to swap them unless they are an upgrade (e.g. a 3 pole armature for a 5 pole, which makes perfect sense)...
Cheers,
Alan
Mainly because I buy rubbish from people on ebay Al ... know what I mean ;)
Quote from: DesertHound on October 17, 2014, 07:08:28 PM
Mainly because I buy rubbish from people on ebay Al ... know what I mean ;)
Well, that's what returns are for, via eBay's robust returns process.
Cheers,
Alan
Nah - better off fixing 'em up yourself.
Now - components that I might replace, even if I could leave them on the chassis, let's see if I can come up with five:
1) worn brushes - ok, not absolutely necessary to change and could be left on a bit longer, but might as well change for a new set, and keep the old ones as they can still be used at a later date.
2) rusty screws - could be left on, but better replaced with a nice new set and see if you can clean up the old ones with an oily rag.
3) "balanced motors" running hot - agree, could be binned but there just might be a fix for them, why throw them out? They still work, but I would swap them with new ones, since I run the risk of damaging other components through heat transfer.
4) stiff gears in bogie towers - nothing failed on them but sometimes swapping the odd gear makes the world of difference.
5) swapping plastic armature couplings for spring where appropriate - no need to throw out the plastic ones - might be used again one day.
6) screws with chopped off ends - nah, they can go in the bin as they just damage the thread on the chassis where they haven't been burred off properly ;)
So yes, it does very much depend upon which components we are talking about.
Dan
Fair enough, but you can't complain too much if you don't use ebay's own tools if there's a problem.
Quote from: DesertHound on October 17, 2014, 07:22:20 PM
1) worn brushes - ok, not absolutely necessary to change and could be left on a bit longer, but might as well change for a new set, and keep the old ones as the can still be used at a later date.
Why? Use the first set of brushes until fully worn out, then replace. It's a common misconception that replacing brushes is the first thing you should do and will fix a lot. Sometimes this is true, but often brushes have plenty more life that they can usefully provide (efficiency....stop using up the world's resources unnecessarily, save the planet and all that ;-) )
Quote from: DesertHound on October 17, 2014, 07:22:20 PM
2) rusty screws - could be left on, but better replaced with a nice new set and see if you can clean up the old ones with an oily rag.
Will make your chassis look prettier, and certainly important if they are conducting, but otherwise won't make a whit of difference to performance. Some of our models are 30+ years old, so corrosion can and does happen, particularly if they have seen some of their life in a damper environment.
Quote from: DesertHound on October 17, 2014, 07:22:20 PM
3) "balanced motors" running hot - agree, could be binned but there just might be a fix for them, why throw them out? They still work, but I would swap them with new ones, since I run the risk of damaging other components through heat transfer.
If they are that hot then they are a failed component and should be discarded.
Quote from: DesertHound on October 17, 2014, 07:22:20 PM
5) swapping plastic armature couplings for spring where appropriate - no need to throw out the plastic ones - might be used again one day.
Why? drive springs can actually be poorer and inflict more friction in the drivetrain via fractional misalignments. The only time the original couplings need changed is if they split (same as gears) and become loose on their shafts. This does happen, and warrants changing them.
Cheers,
Alan
Quote from: Dr Al on October 17, 2014, 07:37:22 PM
Fair enough, but you can't complain too much if you don't use ebay's own tools if there's a problem.
Quote from: DesertHound on October 17, 2014, 07:22:20 PM
1) worn brushes - ok, not absolutely necessary to change and could be left on a bit longer, but might as well change for a new set, and keep the old ones as the can still be used at a later date.
Why? Use the first set of brushes until fully worn out, then replace. It's a common misconception that replacing brushes is the first thing you should do and will fix a lot. Sometimes this is true, but often brushes have plenty more life that they can usefully provide (efficiency....stop using up the world's resources unnecessarily, save the planet and all that ;-) )
Quote from: DesertHound on October 17, 2014, 07:22:20 PM
2) rusty screws - could be left on, but better replaced with a nice new set and see if you can clean up the old ones with an oily rag.
Will make your chassis look prettier, and certainly important if they are conducting, but otherwise won't make a whit of difference to performance. Some of our models are 30+ years old, so corrosion can and does happen, particularly if they have seen some of their life in a damper environment.
Quote from: DesertHound on October 17, 2014, 07:22:20 PM
3) "balanced motors" running hot - agree, could be binned but there just might be a fix for them, why throw them out? They still work, but I would swap them with new ones, since I run the risk of damaging other components through heat transfer.
If they are that hot then they are a failed component and should be discarded.
Quote from: DesertHound on October 17, 2014, 07:22:20 PM
5) swapping plastic armature couplings for spring where appropriate - no need to throw out the plastic ones - might be used again one day.
Why? drive springs can actually be poorer and inflict more friction in the drivetrain via fractional misalignments. The only time the original couplings need changed is if they split (same as gears) and become loose on their shafts. This does happen, and warrants changing them.
Cheers,
Alan
1) Like I said, not absolutely necessary to swap out old brushes for new, but it's something I like to do on occasion, depending upon how much life the old brushes have left. If I put new ones in, I know I won't have to worry about them for a long time. Not a requirement and certainly no misconceptions that they are a cure for a lot of problems. The old ones are, of course, kept. Also, if I've stripped the chassis down, it's nice to have a "flat brush face" on the comm, which can then shape itself. Putting the old ones back isn't a major problem but try and get them back on so that the curvature of the brush face is flush with the comm. I'd say I only replace them on about 10-20% of the Poole stock I buy. Not entirely necessary I'll concede.
2) I take pride in my stock.
3) motors are repairable - not always, but sometimes. I won't be throwing them out until I've had a go.
5) Yes they can be, which is why I said "where appropriate". If you use springs the shaft becomes one and all its mass acts together - more flywheel effect. The downside can be the accentuation of any shaft imperfections or bent springs.
Dan
How many engines have I broken?, well that would be two.
First was a Lifelike diesel, I ran twenty or so locos on a layout without any derailments but this F7 loco would not stay on the track, I did everything possible to get it to stay on the track but in desperation one day smashed it into a concrete path and watched it blow to pieces, ah at last no more problems :claphappy:
Second was a Hornby Drummond T9, it had so many fragile bits hanging off it plus a disgusting electrical connection between the loco and tender that I got frustrated with it and did the same as above, smashed it into concrete and watched it fall to bits, from new it was a lousy runner and as for super detailing you can shove it :veryangry: this loco was enough to put me off OO Gauge forever :thumbsdown:
Many !
Curiosity killed the loco... :smackedface: ..... need I say more ?
The bar connecting the wheels on my Class 08 has come off do these bars just clip back on or will I have to send it off for repair, I will have another look at it tomorrow, just strange that can just fall off as I am extra careful when handling my Loco's.
Quote from: Geoff on October 18, 2014, 08:36:48 AM
The bar connecting the wheels on my Class 08 has come off do these bars just clip back on or will I have to send it off for repair, I will have another look at it tomorrow, just strange that can just fall off as I am extra careful when handling my Loco's.
Geoff
I've only taken my class 08's apart once (a Poole version and a newer Chinese version). Do you happen to know which version you have? Is it a UK built version or a Chinese one (and if Chinese, is it the newer version with the outside connecting rods?)
Perhaps someone else can chip in and help you with this one (to whom I'll happily defer) but if not I'll do my best to help you.
Cheers
Dan
I don't tinker with my locos so I haven't broken any semi-deliberately.
However I have had 2 hit the deck from a height of 3-4 ft - a Dapol M7 and B17.
Both survived with only superficial damage.
What ever other problems Dapol locos may have it seems they are quite shock-proof.
Best regards,
Joe
P.S. Anyone know where I can buy a spare front buffer for a B17 ?
Quote from: joe cassidy on October 18, 2014, 11:59:21 AM
I don't tinker with my locos so I haven't broken any semi-deliberately.
However I have had 2 hit the deck from a height of 3-4 ft - a Dapol M7 and B17.
Both survived with only superficial damage.
What ever other problems Dapol locos may have it seems they are quite shock-proof.
Best regards,
Joe
P.S. Anyone know where I can buy a spare front buffer for a B17 ?
Agreed, I've accidentally dropped a Dapol Hymek and Pannier with no damage done. :sorrysign:
Quote from: Desertound on October 17, 2014, 08:01:12 PM
5) Yes they can be, which is why I said "where appropriate". If you use springs the shaft becomes one and all its mass acts together - more flywheel effect.
Hmm...physics sounds incorrect here unless i misinterpret...In both cases it is the same as the mass rotating is (to first order) the same so the flywheel effect of the combination of armature and worm shafts is therefore the same.
In both cases the mass is small so the net effect is small which is why we now have proper flywheels in locos.
In the case of the springs it can actually be significantly cancelled out by the excess friction if there are fractional misalignments; the old couplings give mire freedom in this respect.
Cheers,
Alan
Quote from: Geoff on October 18, 2014, 08:36:48 AM
The bar connecting the wheels on my Class 08 has come off do these bars just clip back on or will I have to send it off for repair, I will have another look at it tomorrow, just strange that can just fall off as I am extra careful when handling my Loco's.
If it's an old style on there is a single push fit crank pin on the central driver. If this does not hold securely then you should be able to replace that wheelset with a fresh one from br lines.
If a new tool model, contact Bachmann to see what parts are available - on this the rods are retained with crank pins on every wheel.
Hth, Alan
Quote from: Dr Al on October 18, 2014, 12:16:18 PM
Quote from: Geoff on October 18, 2014, 08:36:48 AM
The bar connecting the wheels on my Class 08 has come off do these bars just clip back on or will I have to send it off for repair, I will have another look at it tomorrow, just strange that can just fall off as I am extra careful when handling my Loco's.
If it's an old style on there is a single push fit crank pin on the central driver. If this does not hold securely then you should be able to replace that wheelset with a fresh one from br lines.
If a new tool model, contact Bachmann to see what parts are available - on this the rods are retained with crank pins on every wheel.
Hth, Alan
Not had my 08 out for ages and mixed it up with my panier tank engine, i have fixed the problem sorry for that.
Al
As far as I'm aware, a spring drive coupling will be more efficient than the plastic peg couplings due to the mass acting as one, due to greater efficiency of torque transmission (the two are physically connected). There is no difference in actual mass (not accounting for the mass differences of springs vs plastic couplings), is that what you thought I meant?
There are efficiency losses in the plastic couplings due to no proper alignment (it's just a peg and socket), leading to accentuated vibration from the connected worm shaft. There will also be aerodynamic forces acting against the peg style coupling (hence the noisier running of these - but now we're really splitting hairs).
Where a plastic peg type coupling comes into it's own is that mis-alignment is minimal compared to what you could get if you used spring couplings but didn't have them aligned properly. So, plastic couplings can be fitted with less detail to attention. Spring couplings have to be fitted and the shaft checked to ensure it is perfectly aligned along it's whole length, otherwise the negative effects will be greater (vibration, bearing wear, possible gear/worm meshing issues etc).
I use both plastic couplings and spring couplings. I personally find if you take the time to align the shaft properly with the spring couplings, they give superior running qualities. I do use plastic couplings also, and find these handy for when I need to remove an armature quickly, since I can pop out the armature without having to take out the worm shafts.
Dan
Quote from: DesertHound on October 18, 2014, 04:06:46 PM
As far as I'm aware, a spring drive coupling will be more efficient than the plastic peg couplings due to the mass acting as one, due to greater efficiency of torque transmission (the two are physically connected). There is no difference in actual mass (not accounting for the mass differences of springs vs plastic couplings), is that what you thought I meant?
Physics dictates that the angular momentum is the same in both cases whether springs or couplings for the same mass rotating at the same speed, so whether the mass is turning as one rigid body or is coupled is largely irrelevant. The torque required to turn the system is the same in both cases assuming the drag is the same (namely the friction from the bearings for the block alone, or that plus the friction in the bogies for the full chassis). As such they are essentially the same to first order.
Quote from: DesertHound on October 18, 2014, 04:06:46 PM
There are efficiency losses in the plastic couplings due to no proper alignment (it's just a peg and socket), leading to accentuated vibration from the connected worm shaft. There will also be aerodynamic forces acting against the peg style coupling (hence the noisier running of these - but now we're really splitting hairs).
Yes, there will be some small losses, like the slop in the couplings meaning the motor turns a smidge before engaging the shafts etc, but it's all completely negligible.
The noisier running is much more down to the older style armatures with copper commutators, which were the only ones that were originally made with the drive couplers - these armatures were not as well balanced as the later silver commutator ones or the last Bachfarish ones. Get a nicely balanced one and the couplings are nice and quiet too.
Quote from: DesertHound on October 18, 2014, 04:06:46 PM
Where a plastic peg type coupling comes into it's own is that mis-alignment .
Indeed, as I've been saying from the start :thumbsup:.
Cheers,
Alan
Al
It's true what you say, if there is perfect alignment, yet with the plastic couplings you do not have that alignment as much as you can achieve with the spring couplings, and that's my point. I don't doubt the physics of it, but I'm talking about the practicalities if it, not what we could achieve in a laboratory.
I think you'll find that the extra noise is also down to the aerodynamic effects (there is a space between the peg coupling and air travelling through this makes a whirring noise, additionally the additional vibration that you get from the misalignment of using plastic couplings).
Quote from: Dr Al on October 18, 2014, 05:16:35 PM
Quote from: DesertHound on October 18, 2014, 04:06:46 PM
Where a plastic peg type coupling comes into it's own is that mis-alignment .
Indeed, as I've been saying from the start :thumbsup:.
Cheers,
Alan
Yup, exactly, hence why I choose the drive springs.
There are some very neglibible gains I'd agree, but I'm trying to answer your questions as best I can, since you wished to know the answer.
Best
Dan
Physics is the same everywhere, laboratory or model railway tracks.... ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: DesertHound on October 18, 2014, 05:26:04 PM
I think you'll find that the extra noise is also down to the aerodynamic effects (there is a space between the peg coupling and air travelling through this makes a whirring noise, additionally the additional vibration that you get from the misalignment of using plastic couplings).
Very insignificant IMHO for such small components, there'll be a little bit of 'chatter' between couplings due to the slop.
Main noise is the armature - run them with no drive couplings and the copper armatures sound very similar.
Quote from: DesertHound on October 18, 2014, 05:26:04 PM
There are some very neglibible gains I'd agree, but I'm trying to answer your questions as best I can, since you wished to know the answer.
Totally negligible really for most of these.
I didn't ask any questions though :confused1: - just been sharing my knowledge which will hopefully help others in their modelling ;)
Cheers,
Alan
Didn't ask any questions Al ... ? You might want to go back and re-read this thread and check how many questions you asked me. Was it simply to try and belittle a fellow forum member with your "superior" knowledge?
Dan
Quote from: DesertHound on October 18, 2014, 05:44:57 PM
Didn't ask any questions Al ... ? You might want to go back and re-read this thread and check how many questions you asked me. Was it simply to try and belittle a fellow forum member with your "superior" knowledge?
Woah, steady, there's no need for that!
Only pointing out the my viewpoint, and latterly the physics for the benefit of others who might find it useful!
Cheers,
Alan
No need for what Al? You ask me questions, and then you belittle the answers with your own theories. Why ask the questions in the first place? I think it's known to others as being a "wind-up" merchant.
I counted three, possibly four "whys" from you to my attempts to help others on this thread, yet you say you didn't ask me any questions. You have no interest in learning from others with your whys, you simply ask so that you can de-construct their answers point by point.
You have a history on this forum of winding up others I see.
Dan
Quote from: DesertHound on October 18, 2014, 05:54:39 PM
No need for what Al? You ask me questions, and then you belittle the answers with your own theories.
Sorry if that's the way it comes across, but not intended as such - merely passing my comments.
But I think it's better we leave it there - I've believe I've been perfectly courteous to you in debate, and therefore don't appreciate the above comments.
Cheers,
Alan
Quote from: DesertHound on October 18, 2014, 05:54:39 PM
No need for what Al? You ask me questions, and then you belittle the answers with your own theories. Why ask the questions in the first place? I think it's known to others as being a "wind-up" merchant.
I counted three, possibly four "whys" from you to my attempts to help others on this thread, yet you say you didn't ask me any questions. You have no interest in learning from others with your whys, you simply ask so that you can de-construct their answers point by point.
You have a history on this forum of winding up others I see.
Dan
I Beg to disagree.
What Alan had a history of is being willing to give advice and helping people fix their models based on his technical knowledge, capability had hands on experience.
Regards
Roy
Al, it is not a matter of courtesy as such, it is the subtle art of de-constructing what someone else has written. Why continuously ask the why's if you know the answers? I am not the first person to experience this on here, and I can see now why it has irritated others.
Dan
Enough please. I don't know why this thread has ended up like this, so please stay on topic.
Dan,
I'm passionate about my modelling and if that means I get too involved in a debate, well....100% guilty as charged :-[ .
But, I just try to help folks where I can. But let's leave it at that.
Cheers,
Alan
Quote from: Dr Al on October 18, 2014, 06:12:11 PM
Dan,
I'm passionate about my modelling and if that means I get too involved in a debate, well....100% guilty as charged :-[ .
But, I just try to help folks where I can. But let's leave it at that.
Cheers,
Alan
Yes, let's leave it there. I know you have a knowledge base which exceeds most on here (including my own), but we all need to converse in an environment where all views are welcome. I cannot honestly say that you are talking rubbish, but I also sometimes feel there is room for more than one opinion. We all need to converse in a context which allows room for manoeuvre. What works for you, might not for me, and vice versa. Let's try not to forget that - that goes for me as much as anybody else. If we could try to express opinions rather than facts it might be a good starting point.
Dan
Oh Dear,
When I started this thread it was meant as a light hearted comment about my own failings in keeping my engines running, and to see if there were others like myself who started off in N gauge making a bit of a mess of things, being stuck on a slow learning curve and wondering if they would ever be able to cross over to the fast line.
We are all individuals and like to do things our own way, whether that way be right or wrong. I have been criticised on this thread in one post (for not getting my environment right I think the comment was), and have been criticised before for something I said in a post ( I think that was in relation to my "Osborns" thread),
but I don't let it bother me, and maybe it's time we moved on to other matters.
Going out for a few beers shortly, and will probably watch Match of the Day later, and tomorrow I may be confined to my storeroom to do some more work on my layout as there is a storm on it's way and heavy rain is forecast. Apparently it's heading for Britain but is likely to clip Tenerife first, so no sunbathing tomorrow.
Sorry to hijack your thread Tdm. Happy to keep it going with the best of intentions.
Dan
Quote from: Tdm on October 18, 2014, 07:09:56 PM
Oh Dear,
no sunbathing tomorrow.
Shame on you stop bating us in the UK ;)
Quote from: Ditape on October 18, 2014, 07:14:00 PM
Quote from: Tdm on October 18, 2014, 07:09:56 PM
Oh Dear,
no sunbathing tomorrow.
Shame on you stop bating us in the UK ;)
Serves you lot right over there for giving me a bad cold when I came over last week. It may or may not rain tomorrow (if it does it will be the first time since I don't know when) so as a precaution I have moved my open topped car to an underground Garage.
When it does rain - it really does - the pictures below are of a nearby roundabout and the TF1 Motorway when we last had a heavy downpour.
(http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo231/Tdmak/Sundry%20and%20Miscellaneous/floods2.jpg) (http://s379.photobucket.com/user/Tdmak/media/Sundry%20and%20Miscellaneous/floods2.jpg.html)
(http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo231/Tdmak/Sundry%20and%20Miscellaneous/floods1.jpg) (http://s379.photobucket.com/user/Tdmak/media/Sundry%20and%20Miscellaneous/floods1.jpg.html)
Tdm - are you sure moving it to an UNDERGROUND garage is a wise move? I know when it rains here that underground garages are full of floating Porsches and Lamborghinis. Serves them right for getting the "best" parking spots :P
Quote from: DesertHound on October 18, 2014, 09:59:38 PM
Tdm - are you sure moving it to an UNDERGROUND garage is a wise move? I know when it rains here that underground garages are full of floating Porsches and Lamborghinis. Serves them right for getting the "best" parking spots :P
Although it's an underground car park - the building itself is on high ground and above the level that normally gets flooded. Porches and Lambos are the toys of rich kids (Bankers usually) and I don't care what happens to them, but a real Man's car such as my Triumph Stag needs to be preserved and should live on forever. My trastero (storeroom) is on the 7th floor - so no danger of my layout getting flooded either.
I was hoping (and thought) you might say as much. Phew!
Broke my Dapol A4 today--or rather, I think my daughter did. It was happily running round my test track when I popped out for a moment and returned to find my daughter sitting at the adjacent computer and the A4 on the table broken apart. She tells me it fell off the table onto the tile floor--I think she knocked it.
Fortunately I managed to reassemble the pieces and it is running again. The only damage evident is a missing buffer head, and I think I can fit another. For a few minutes I thought it was a write off. Pleased that it is not.
Lucky you !
I dropped a 9f onto a book, about a 3ft drop.... Now spare parts as body was badly damaged and chassis nows runs like a 3 legged donkey !
The dapol A4 does have very fragile buffers, I've seen quite a few repaired after breaking off.
Vintage Peco Jubilee... using it as a test locomotive on some newly laid track in 1989.... forgot there was no stop at end of trackwork... 4 foot onto concrete floor. It's been a sick puppy every since, but it's a very nice sick puppy as it was given a wonderful repaint from a friend back in the 90s. So it just sits there looking pretty, these days.
[smg id=2550 type=preview align=center width=400]
Funny you should say that Bealman. I will need to do some testing as I lay some track in the not to distant future, which will be on a ledge and have segments which end at a "cliff face" - I was thinking the exact same thing is likely to happen to me.
Usually if I have these thoughts it means it's going to happen!
Dan
Dan, just don't leave the controller running full pelt while you look the other way.... that's what happened with my Jubilee!! :doh:
George
Ah - but surely if it's going to go, you might as well do it at full pelt ;D You never know, a bit of forward velocity at the point of impact might lessen the blow! In all seriousness, a few books or something weighty at the track end's will be a must methinks.
Dan
Now there's an idea for an enterprising accessories company - clip-on baseboard safety nets.
I'm just dreaming up a terminus station and TMD which will involve a few tracks terminating close to a precipitous drop. I'm going to put some kind of scenic element there to prevent accidents caused by buffer failure at high speed, but while testing remind me to put something soft in the drop zone just in case.
Quote from: Bealman on October 19, 2014, 01:15:18 AM
Vintage Peco Jubilee... using it as a test locomotive on some newly laid track in 1989.... forgot there was no stop at end of trackwork... 4 foot onto concrete floor. It's been a sick puppy every since, but it's a very nice sick puppy as it was given a wonderful repaint from a friend back in the 90s. So it just sits there looking pretty, these days.
[smg id=2550 type=preview align=center width=400]
I have a lovely hand painted (not by me) Jubilee in "00" that I couldn't bear to part with when we left the U.K. and have it on display on top of a shelf in our Dining Room along with a few other "00" items I kept including a Collett, a Panier, and 3 Blackpool Trams. Since moving to N gauge they now seem so big and heavy. They haven't run for 10 years but they were working fine when I last ran them.
Oh - And by the way I am really glad I moved my car last evening as it started raining about 3pm this morning and has never stopped and it is thundering and lightening right now and throwing it down like a Tropical Monsoon. So bad that we have sent our Lifeguard home as he won't be needed today.
As I was typing this we just lost our Internet Service because of the weather, and it means we will lose the TV services as well as it is all Satelite based and the dishes are getting a hammering. Don't know when you will get this post, depends when we get the service back, but it is currently just after noon and I suspect parts of Los Cristianos are going to get flooded again I fear.
(http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo231/Tdmak/Model%20Railway/00Trains-1.jpg) (http://s379.photobucket.com/user/Tdmak/media/Model%20Railway/00Trains-1.jpg.html)
(http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo231/Tdmak/00Trains2.jpg) (http://s379.photobucket.com/user/Tdmak/media/00Trains2.jpg.html)
Quote from: Tdm on October 19, 2014, 12:52:15 PM
I have a lovely hand painted (not by me) Jubilee in "00"
On the topic of repainted Jubilees, this is one I did....just before Bachmann brought theirs out!!
(http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/MGalleryItem.php?id=17567)
Amazing that Peco never brought it out in BR colours.
Cheers,
Alan
Dunno about sending the lifeguard home ... sounds like you should have kept him there to me! Bermuda's just been battered ... wondering if it's part of the same system.
Slightly :offtopicsign: BUT..
This is Northern Italy and it should be Autumn.
Brilliant sunshine today 28 C outside at the moment and I haven't dropped any locos yet. The minitrix 47 that DOESN'T fit the Lion body that I just purchased came close...
Despite the heat due to Mrs "H" chemo condition we have the wood fired central heating blazing away while I sit in the dining room with the windows open.
Back to the modelling....in a bit.
Jerry
I have a Dapol 9F that has always derailed on facing points so I normally run it at the back of the layout with minimal problems ie it keeps derailing, today I inadvertently sent it to the front of the layout you guessed it it derailed and threw itself and 10 coal truck 46 inches onto the floor, result coal wagons every where and a very badly damaged 9F being sent to BR lines for repair a second time.
Does Bob repair Dapol locos then, Graham?
Quote from: newportnobby on October 19, 2014, 03:56:34 PM
Does Bob repair Dapol locos then, Graham?
Bob was Dapol's original repair agent before they enlisted DCC Supplies I believe.
Cheers,
Alan
Quote from: newportnobby on October 19, 2014, 03:56:34 PM
Does Bob repair Dapol locos then, Graham?
Hi Mick
He has repaired this one twice for me some problem each time, it does not like being drop tested what normally happens is the wiring from the tender to the loco shears resulting in them being separated with the fun bit of hunt the kardon shaft as an extra game when it originally happened I contacted Dapol whose response was a) I should have had barrier around the base board so it could not fall of the layout b) It was out of warranty and not their problem and c) they would replace it at a cost of £127 so on the off chance I asked Bob if he would look at it for me and so far he has been brilliant with it.
At the moment it is back with him so that he can fit the Dapol bogie mod for me
Regards Graham
p.s. many thanks for your best wishes
Quote from: GeeBee on October 19, 2014, 05:38:27 PM
a) I should have had barrier around the base board so it could not fall of the layout
A bit like if you took your car into the bodyshop after somebody had hit it overnight parked outside your house and the garage's response is "oh, you should have parked that on the driveway" ... :headbutt: :headbutt: :headbutt:
Talking about falling off a cliff, and going back to the off topic subject of today's weather for just a moment, I am glad I moved my car to a safe place yesterday.
I bet the owner of the vehicle under water in the pic below taken at San Juan today (not all that far up the coast) wished he had moved his somewhere else.
The owner wasn't in it by the way the time it got swept away.
(http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo231/Tdmak/Model%20Railway/OctStorm.jpg) (http://s379.photobucket.com/user/Tdmak/media/Model%20Railway/OctStorm.jpg.html)
Quote from: Dr Al on October 19, 2014, 05:34:33 PM
Quote from: newportnobby on October 19, 2014, 03:56:34 PM
Does Bob repair Dapol locos then, Graham?
Bob was Dapol's original repair agent before they enlisted DCC Supplies I believe.
Cheers,
Alan
Thanks Alan & Graham,
I thought Bob only repaired Farish stuff hence my question. Good to know he'll tackle Dapol stuff, too :thumbsup:
Quote from: newportnobby on October 19, 2014, 10:42:19 PM
Thanks Alan & Graham,
I thought Bob only repaired Farish stuff hence my question. Good to know he'll tackle Dapol stuff, too :thumbsup:
Be careful though - I'm not sure his association with Dapol now - if under warranty period the official repairer is currently DCC Supplies. I don't know if you got Bob to repair it whether you'd forfeit your warranty :worried: (I'd hope not....).
HTH,
Alan
Guess who broke his Brighton Belle. Think I took it apart once too often!
Quote from: colpatben on October 20, 2014, 11:23:21 PM
Guess who broke his Brighton Belle. Think I took it apart once too often!
Ohhhh Noooooo :doh:
:sorrysign: to hear that your BB is broken just for the record which bit has broken was it the couplings ?
Bob
Quote from: newportnobby on October 21, 2014, 01:27:00 AM
Quote from: colpatben on October 20, 2014, 11:23:21 PM
Guess who broke his Brighton Belle. Think I took it apart once too often!
Ohhhh Noooooo :doh:
There is always a silver lining, at least now I will be able to modify (butcher) the power car chassis to fit a sound decoder and rewire the table lamps and head code to DCC switching operation without fear of invalidating the warranty.
Then when Hornby start to sell the power car and trailer only I can invest in one of those.
The first BB mod - ever - perhaps Colpatben. Sorry to hear about your mishap though. I hate that feeling when you break something you've just bought. Luckily for you there's a silver lining in this one.
Dan
Quote from: Tdm on October 18, 2014, 09:55:49 PM
Quote from: Ditape on October 18, 2014, 07:14:00 PM
Quote from: Tdm on October 18, 2014, 07:09:56 PM
Oh Dear,
no sunbathing tomorrow.
Shame on you stop bating us in the UK ;)
Serves you lot right over there for giving me a bad cold when I came over last week. It may or may not rain tomorrow (if it does it will be the first time since I don't know when) so as a precaution I have moved my open topped car to an underground Garage.
When it does rain - it really does - the pictures below are of a nearby roundabout and the TF1 Motorway when we last had a heavy downpour.
(http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo231/Tdmak/Sundry%20and%20Miscellaneous/floods2.jpg) (http://s379.photobucket.com/user/Tdmak/media/Sundry%20and%20Miscellaneous/floods2.jpg.html)
Do I remember correctly that was last December, the only year we didn't spend December on Teneriffe but went to Gran Canaria instead. Watched it on local news channel and waited for the storm to hit us but it went by!
Back to Costa Adeje this year please keep the sun shinning.
Quote from: Bob Tidbury on October 21, 2014, 08:41:24 AM
:sorrysign: to hear that your BB is broken just for the record which bit has broken was it the couplings ?
Bob
No, just me being very heavy handed whilst trying to find out how all it worked, and if you have been following my posts you will have gathered that I am naturally inquisitive!
No problem at all with the model per see, in fact very well executed by Arnold/Hornby.
Yes of course you can miss handle anything if you try, but after checking the alignment of the three pin connector in both axis, gentle but firm pressure is all that I found was needed to assemble the couplings.