This is a question for more experienced (than me) members on here who may have their own solutions.
When I run a rake of say 6 carriages or 10 goods wagons I every now and again get at least one of the rake to uncouple itself even on perfectly straight track.
It appears to me that the height of the couplings differ slightly on some, especially where you have a mix of say Dapol, Farish, and Peco rolling stock.
Would a cut-down paperclip placed over the troublesome couplings help, or is there a simpler solution that someone has found and adopted, without "glueing" couplings together?.
I have almost finished the modifications to my track and am currently testing different train combinations on it, but am now getting the uncoupling problem, although I did have it before I made the changes as well.
Terry, I believe forum member DavieB has used a product called 'Tacky Wax' which helps overcome such problems :hmmm:
I think he uses this :- http://www.ehattons.com/46422/Deluxe_Materials_AD_29_Tacky_wax_28g/StockDetail.aspx (http://www.ehattons.com/46422/Deluxe_Materials_AD_29_Tacky_wax_28g/StockDetail.aspx)
Sometimes just turning one of them round can work wonders. At the beginning of a show weekend we can have lots of uncouplings but flipping them 180 often cures it. With no other issues with it the rest of the day.
Failing that a blob of bluetak wedged into either above or below (depending on high or low) also works well and can be the cheapest option.
Alistair
Thanks for suggestions - don't know if Tacky Wax might be a "banned" substance for shipping via Air Mail - all oils are.
Can get Bluetack easily enough though locally so will try that.
As for turning things round - yes I've tried that and it does sometimes work - but not always.
When I tried some test running again this afternoon - this time my rakes stayed coupled.
Sometimes just the threat of bluetack can frighten them into staying coupled
I have a block load rake of wagons numbered in pencil underneath, 1 for leading end, 2 for trailing first coupling, then 2 and 3, 3 and 4 and so on after I found the sequence they were happy running in!
It's worth going through each vehicle and looking closely at the relative coupling height and angle - invariably uncoupling is caused by couplers at different heights.
This can be adjusted on NEMs by slight bends in the two little prongs that stick out at the rear of the coupler, and on Peco stock (which can be very variable) check that the chassis of the wagon is securely attached to the body (a slight gap can cause coupler sag). Also a small nick on the underside of the coupler box where the coupler rests when down can adjust the ones that still sit low.
Also, angle can cause decoupling even if the heights are ok (though often they are related - a saggy coupler will sit at an angle) - I've seen this in particular with some Peco couplers - really they should all sit square.
The Farish sprung couplers are probably the least easy to adjust, but often are ok in terms of height and alignment. Notable exceptions to this seem to be the latest Bachmann Farish 16 ton minerals and short wheelbase wagons with sprung couplers, they seem prone to being saggy and I've had to fiddle with quite a few and remove flash from the coupler etc.
The last type of coupler you may have or encounter is the old style solid Farish loop type coupler - there's not much adjustment you can do with these other that slightly bend them if they are really out of true.
HTH,
Alan
Just for the sake of completeness, many change their couplings to different types to avoid this issue (amongst other reasons)....to Unimates, Bachmann dummy knuckles, Dapol Eazi-Shunts or their NEM "hook" that comes with new wagons, etc. etc.....
Cheers
Jon :)
Quote from: PostModN66 on August 03, 2014, 12:38:15 PM
Just for the sake of completeness, many change their couplings to different types to avoid this issue (amongst other reasons)....to Unimates, Bachmann dummy knuckles, Dapol Eazi-Shunts or their NEM "hook" that comes with new wagons, etc. etc.....
Cheers
Jon :)
On my steam stock I have fitted DG's so I can shunt them. You do have to perminently modify them but I don't have any issues with doing that anyway.
Not taken the plunge just yet on my modern stuff except for 3 SPA's that I have which one has been marked on one end and will be my benchmark wagon.
Alistair