Well seeing as i have four ivatt 2mts, 1xbr black, 1xlms black and 2xbr green (one weathered) i thought i would relivery one into crimson, like the one that used to be seen on the east lancs, which i think looks stunning!
Now iv decided to do it to the lms black one...
What would be the best way to relivery the loco? And how would i go about lining it? Numbering it and br emblem no problem, but the rest im not too sure of.
Thanks
Paul
Firstly you will need to decide if you wish to strip the model before applying the new livery. It will give a better finish if you do use something like modelstrip to take it back to the bare plastic. Having said that, the detail on N gauge models tends to be somewhat overscale so you can probably get away with simply applying the new paint over the existing livery. I have done this in the past and it looks fine. I would advise removing any existing numbers or lining with fine wet and dry paper (I use 1200 grade) as they will show up as being raised.
Remove the body shell and lightly prime it with Halfords grey car primer. Next apply the crimson paint using your favourite method. Airbrushing is best but if you do not have an airbrush, you can get away with a spray can of car paint, Rover Damask Red is a pretty good match for LMS crimson. Remember to apply several light coats rather than 1 or 2 thick ones or you will obscure details or get a runny finish.
I would apply numbers and letters with transfers (I think Fox do suitable ones). I have lined locos before using this method and it is a bit fiddly and time consuming but not actually too difficult. Here is a how I lined a 1400 in BR livery.
My starting point is a Dapol auto-tank in unlined BR black which the majority of this class wore. However the procedure outlined here is equally applicable to kit or scratch-built models you have painted yourself.
I have chosen to use the Fox lining transfers from pack FRH2075. This includes lining elements for the panels (and tender is applicable), boiler bands and splasher lining. This pack contains ample transfers for a large tender engine so using it in a small tank engine gave me plenty of left-overs so it did not matter if I made a few mistakes.
Fox transfers use a 2-stage approach to produce the separate red and grey lines of the BR mixed traffic livery. Firstly a thick transfer with red and cream lines is applied. Once this is dry, a second finer line of black is applied over the top to create the separation between the 2. ModelMaster uses a single transfer with all the elements on one layer. This makes it easier to apply but I find the lining is not as fine as the Fox version. The method below is applicable to both types.
1. The first step is to prepare the surface. Transfers are best applied to a gloss surface. As well as making them easier to position, this helps stop tiny air bubbles getting trapped under the transfer which can cause a silvering effect. Apply a couple of coats of acrylic gloss varnish and allow it to dry thoroughly. I used Johnsons Klear (actually a brand of floor polish) but any good gloss varnish will do the job.
(http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee199/Karhedronuk/DSCF4081.jpg) (http://s234.photobucket.com/user/Karhedronuk/media/DSCF4081.jpg.html)
2. Next prepare to apply the straight lines that make up the main panels on the sides of the body. Getting lining transfers to lie straight on the model can be tricky since they are long, thin and floppy. The simplest solution is to apply masking tape to the model, just to one side of where the line should go. Masking tape is thicker and stronger and so supplies a straight edge. I used Tamiya 9mm modellers masking tape as this has sufficient “grab” to stay in place but not so much that it will damage underlying paintwork when removed.
3. Cut out the straight lines you need for the panels. Fox include separate corner pieces so cut the lines slightly shorter than the finished panel to allow for the curve radius. The corners also include a short straight section so the length you cut to is not critical.
4. Place the cut out transfer on the side of the model as close as possible to its final position. Apply clean warm water with a paint brush until the backing paper is soaked. Do not try to soak the transfers off in a dish of water, even if the manufacturers instructions say to do so. Once a lining transfer has floated off its backing paper, it is almost impossible to get from the water to the model without tangling or breaking.
5. After about a minute, the water should have released the transfer from its backing paper and it should be possible to slide it off with either a paint brush or a blunted cocktail stick.
6. Slide the transfer off the paper and onto the model. If it sticks, apply a little more water with a paint brush but try to avoid flooding the area. Use the paint brush to gently slide the transfer up against the side of masking tape to make a straight line. Brushing lengthways along the line will smooth out any creases or wrinkles. Take your time doing this and apply more water as necessary.
7. Once the transfer is in the correct position, blot away the remaining water using a soft tissue. Take care not to disturb the position of the transfer while doing this.
8. Remove the masking tape and allow the transfer to dry thoroughly. This might be a good time to work on the opposite side for example.
9. Once the transfer is dry, seal it with a coat of gloss varnish. This will protect it from water or damage as other transfers are moved into position next to it. Repeat the steps above until all the straight lines are in position.
10. Next put the corner pieces in place following the same procedure as for the lines. The corner pieces feature a short straight section either side of the curve and this can be laid over the existing pieces. This will ensure that the corners are correctly lined up and square. Allow to dry and varnish as per the straight sections.
11. If you are using the ModelMaster transfers then you will be done on the panels. If using Fox transfers you will now need to apply the black lining over the top. Follow the same procedure as for the red/white lines. Take care when positioning the black line to ensure it is central. This may take patience and careful work with a paint brush. The varnish applied to the first set of lines mean you do not need to worry about water from the black transfer loosening them.
12. Some smaller classes of tank engines (including the 1400s) had oddly shaped panels behind the cab. These can be created by cutting short pieces of straights and curves to achieve the desired shape. The pack includes a good quantity of corners so don’t worry if a few pieces go wrong as they can easily be removed and replaced. Just remember to take your time. Once you are happy with the position of each piece allow it to dry and seal it in place with a coat of varnish.
(http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee199/Karhedronuk/DSCF4134.jpg) (http://s234.photobucket.com/user/Karhedronuk/media/DSCF4134.jpg.html)
13. The boiler banding is much more straight-forward as it goes on as a single piece. I suggest cutting the bands a little longer than they need to be. Once they are in position, seal with varnish but do not varnish the excess. Then use a sharp modelling knife with a fresh blade to carefully trim the banding transfer to the exact length. This is easier than trying to cut the boiler bands to exactly the correct length whilst still on their backing sheet.
14. The splashers can be done in the same way. The transfer pack comes with several different radii of curves to suit different locomotives. Choose the one that matches your model and then cut out an arc, slightly longer than it needs to be. Once in place, the excess can be trimmed off.
15. Once all the transfers are in place and sealed, apply a coat of satin or matt varnish to cover the gloss and give an even finish. I favour a spray can of Testors Dullcote for this job as it gives a good flat finish every time.
(http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee199/Karhedronuk/DSCF4165.jpg) (http://s234.photobucket.com/user/Karhedronuk/media/DSCF4165.jpg.html)
This picture shows the finished loco, just awaiting its set of etched number plates to complete its new identity. In cruel close up it is just possible to see the overlap of the transfer elements but at normal viewing distances it looks fine, even next to the current generation of RTR models with their high standard of factory finish.
Hope this helps. :)
Excellent tutorial Matt,
Thanks
Dave