hi i have bought n gauge photo back scene & the right glue had major problems getting it to stick loads of bubbles tried damp cloth to iron out the bubbles & creases in end had to throw due to tear i want to try again but whats the best way to apply the scene on a already fitted backboard :'(
Not knowing the height of your backdrop or if it is just being applied to a flat surface or going round corners I would hazard a guess at rolling the backdrop up and starting at one end use a wide piece of plastic to ensure all air bubbles are pushed out as you unravel the backdrop.
Having an extra pair of hands might help as they can be applying the adhesive as you progress.
cheers John.
if its a paper backsceene (Peco type) treat it like wallpaper paste the back soak for minute then apply sweeping with brush or roller , gently wipe surface with damp cloth .
mr bachmann
hi it paper based not peco
If you find you can't get rid of bubbles, before the glue has dried, use a pin to prick the bubble and then carefully press useing your fingers from the edge of the bubble toward the pinprick. This will force the air out.
Note, this needs to be done while the glue is still wet/damp.
Hi Martin, there has been quite a bit of discussion about this on the forum. Here's a link to one thread, that also contains links to others (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=15508.msg153877#msg153877) that might also be helpful to you
All
I used the glue on a stick NOT the well known brand a cheap three for 2 quid from poundstreacher think poundland has similar as well. It worked great with a few bubbles which smoothed out easily.
Regards
Dave
i have been thinking paint it a light to medium grey dull sky with bushes & tress against it would that be rather than messing with paper & what best make of grey paint to use ??
Quote from: scotsoft on October 01, 2013, 03:01:29 PM
Not knowing the height of your backdrop or if it is just being applied to a flat surface or going round corners I would hazard a guess at rolling the backdrop up and starting at one end use a wide piece of plastic to ensure all air bubbles are pushed out as you unravel the backdrop.
Having an extra pair of hands might help as they can be applying the adhesive as you progress.
cheers John.
hi yes the backscene is around 4" high & is around 9 ft long with 1 external & 1 internal corner
Quote from: Trev on October 01, 2013, 04:10:34 PM
If you find you can't get rid of bubbles, before the glue has dried, use a pin to prick the bubble and then carefully press useing your fingers from the edge of the bubble toward the pinprick. This will force the air out.
Note, this needs to be done while the glue is still wet/damp.
You've seen me wallpapering! :-[
i was going to mount it on some empty cereal boxes 1st let that dry then glue to backboard thinking bhind the thin card is it will give it more move ability & should not bubble
There is another approach that Lawrence has used (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=1375.msg121372#msg121372). More expensive but may save problems in the long run. I am going to use this approach when renewing my (failed) backscene
another thing i would like to ask is about static grass i see some tap a nail in the middle of area use a power source now i have a battery charger that plugs into mains with crocodile clips will this work :NGaugeForum: ???
:confused2: ??? Sounds a bit risky electrically. AFAIK battery chargers are not intended to be used as power sources.
ok think i will use noch puffer bottle with 5mm grass
:dunce: i have two plastic peco stone affect bridge fronts painted in dark grey i don't like them whats best shade to do & make of paint thanks
One quick fix is to use some acrylic paint (something pale, like a mix of cream and grey) and brush that all over the plastic bridge or tunnel front. Then, while it's still wet, use a paper towel to gently rub away the paint. Some will be left in the cracks between the stones, and a little will be left behind on the stones themselves. The result is something that looks more muted and realistic. The good thing about this approach is that the acrylic is water soluble, so if you don't like what you've done, run under hot water and scrub it away! Then try again with another colour.
Serious hobbyists seem to paint the bricks or stones individually, or at least some of the bricks or stones, in two or three colours beyond the background shade. The result is that the whole thing looks more variegated, but it's important to keep the set of colours fairly close, e.g., different shades of grey, otherwise too many different colours looks silly and unrealistic. Done right, the results can be spectacular, but you need a steady hand to do this in N gauge!
Cheers, NeMo
Quote from: martin75 on October 05, 2013, 09:17:52 AM
:dunce: i have two plastic peco stone affect bridge fronts painted in dark grey i don't like them whats best shade to do & make of paint thanks
ok thanks problem i have bridge fronts are already fitted i bought this layout my part built its my 1st they grey is i would say satin got a shine too it does not look real at all
when u say mix what sort of ratio would it be of pale cream/grey thanks
You have to experiment. A shade or two paler than the bricks/stones should work well as a starting point. Cheap acrylic paint "starter packs" from Wilkinsons, The Works, etc. are fine for this sort of thing, giving you lots of colours to play with.
Cheers, NeMo
Quote from: martin75 on October 05, 2013, 10:09:09 AM
when u say mix what sort of ratio would it be of pale cream/grey thanks
would humbrol acrylic be ok thanks
hi i would like to know how wide white lines should be on roads & junctions has i am ready to paint the fine detail now :P :beers:
Grab tape measure , exit house wearing High visibility clothing. Measure lines, return to house grab paper and pencil return to street re-measure white line this time in inches then use calculator. 1mm = 6".
They don't use white lines over here as it confuses the locals.