Grandad has quite a few Scalescenes kits and about 10 Clever Models ones including the free downloads.
What would be the best for me to try for a first attempt?
I don't want anything too large and will need to be country based.
What about this one - you could use it as a store on a farm etc . . . and it is free to download
http://scalescenes.com/products/R002 (http://scalescenes.com/products/R002)
Hi Monkey,
Give the one suggested by Pengi a go. Its a bit fiddly but worth a shot.
What kits scalescenes kits has Grandad got ? If you can list them I can tell you which may be easy to build. That way they will be free as you can ask him to print them of for you.
If you want a railway based country one, the goods shed that comes with GWR Station Scalescenes R003b is a nice a simple one. The small station building that comes with it has difficult windows though.
Jerry
Thanks Jerry, he has quite a few.
Canal boats, Concrete Bridge, Dock Walls, Footbridge, Inspection Pit, Both the Low Relief Warehouses, Low relief Flats, Medium Station, Multi storey Carpark, Office Block, Platform, Retaining Wall, Small Engine Shed, Small Goods shed, Small station structures, Small Station and the Warehouse.
Most of the ones with different finish options are brown or dark red brick.
He has built the Small Goods shed, Concrete Bridge, Flats, warehouses both the low relief and the big one, and I think he was looking at buying one of the brick bridges
Wow Jazzy, thats a lot to choose from. My old grey cells will have to study this list and get back to you soon. May have to resort to the aid of a glass of wine on this one....
I've been starting out with the free downloads from Wordsworth model railways - they are very simple. Then moved onto the free goods shed from scale scenes and now bought their platforms and did OK with that. Also wondering what to get next - I want to do the large station but wondering if that's a step too far too quickly.
If you are talking about the one with the curved overall roof it is quite difficult.
Getting the trusses for the roof and then curving it to fit requires a lot of patience. I did percevere but then decided that it was too grand a structure for my layout. I however like the buildings that go with it. The only hard part is the cupola on the top so fiddly in "N" that I abandoned it for a flat roof. This building is going to become a customs house when i get around to my harbour scene.
Jerry
Jazzy,
Looked at the list now. As you are doing a country theme the Medium Station is fairly easy, If you start with the Station "House" you could get a feel for it. Just print pages 3 & 4 plus sheet 7 for the roof tiles. For your first go you could cheat and just cut the roof tiles out to fit the roof rather than layering them on in rows.
I haven't built the canal boats but I did make the large ship and that wasn't too hard and canal boats are ship shaped so...
Don't attempt the small station structures for at least 30 years as they are mind blowingly small and fiddly.
The low relief warehouses are easy but will need to be placed against a backscene. The Small goods shed is harder and I haven't built the engine shed.
Footbridge is also fiddly as is the inspection pit.
The others are more suited a town.
If he does by the arched brick bridge it is fairly easy to make and very useful especially if he has a relation that is building her own railway.....
Good luck
Jerry
Thank you Jerry.
The station is already sorted - just a waiting room from the Peco set with a couple of huts.
The farm buildings include Kestrel kits that grandad made me sometime back.
May try the little goods shed as I will need one.
I like the idea of getting him to get the arched bridge kit - it looks better than the Peco one we have in my box of bits.
Quote from: Jerry Howlett on March 24, 2013, 03:48:34 PM
If you are talking about the one with the curved overall roof it is quite difficult.
Getting the trusses for the roof and then curving it to fit requires a lot of patience. I did percevere but then decided that it was too grand a structure for my layout. I however like the buildings that go with it. The only hard part is the cupola on the top so fiddly in "N" that I abandoned it for a flat roof. This building is going to become a customs house when i get around to my harbour scene.
Jerry
It is the buildings I want - not going to do the roof (at the moment).
In that case I recomend it (the interior includes the booking office).
Just as I said you may find the cupola a bit tricky.
There is a free steps kit that you should add to your order that brings the building up to platform level if you need it.
Jerry
Thanks for encouraging her Jerry :doh:
Looks like I may have to get some more card, and printer ink in stock then.
I said to Monkey that the small goods shed would suit her idea's best and then got the question of bridges thrown at me.
I'm sure Jazzys' enthusiasm will soon rub off on you Mike and you will be planning your own next move soon enough ;)
Cheers Lawrence.
Jazzy will get hers done probably before I try again.
I know what I want to do but don't know how on the limited budget available.
The main problem is suitable loco chassis and then trying to fit Microtrains z gauge couplings to the required rolling stock. Could be a lot of scratch building.
Quote from: Oldman on March 25, 2013, 12:47:31 PM
Thanks for encouraging her Jerry :doh:
Looks like I may have to get some more card, and printer ink in stock then.
I said to Monkey that the small goods shed would suit her idea's best and then got the question of bridges thrown at me.
Oops.......
Quote from: Oldman on March 25, 2013, 01:00:59 PM
Cheers Lawrence.
Jazzy will get hers done probably before I try again.
I know what I want to do but don't know how on the limited budget available.
The main problem is suitable loco chassis and then trying to fit Microtrains z gauge couplings to the required rolling stock. Could be a lot of scratch building.
Well I do believe you have someone close to hand who probably has dainty little fingers and could help with that ;) Then you can do some scratch build tutorials with Jazzy to give her a break from building kits :D
Another option would be to use a Sankei kit. All the parts are cut out. Most of the buildings are Japanese outline but there are a few that could be used on UK rural layouts.
An example is this Water Mill (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sankei-MP03-16-Water-Mill-1-150-N-scale-/360500078649?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item53ef7aa839)
There is a technique to putting these kits together so it is probably worth starting with something like this barn (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Barn-1-150-N-scale-Sankei-MP04-20-/360374056013) before doing the Water Mill
HobbyLinkJapan have put together this guide (http://www.hlj.com/howtosankei.html) for building the kits. The example given is the Water Mill
Having built card kits from most if not all suppliers I have to say for simplicity the hands down winner is Wordsworth Kits, they are free and require very little work to construct, they can also be modified for those that like super details.
http://www.wordsworthmodelrailway.co.uk/ (http://www.wordsworthmodelrailway.co.uk/)
Fair enough but they are the other gauge so need to be reduced in size to start with. I couldn't do that with my last printer.
I have used one as part of a backscene but find them rather "flat" in appearance however I am becoming a nit picking old g** nowadays.
Quote from: Jerry Howlett on March 27, 2013, 10:19:58 AM
Fair enough but they are the other gauge so need to be reduced in size to start with. I couldn't do that with my last printer.
I have used one as part of a backscene but find them rather "flat" in appearance however I am becoming a nit picking old g** nowadays.
What do you mean "becoming" Jerry :smiley-laughing: :smiley-laughing: :smiley-laughing:
:laughabovepost: Fair enough.
Just looking back through a variety of Kits. The Scalescenes Low Relief High street backs are well worth a shot. As usual if you don't fancy doing the tiled roof effect you can simply print the roofing sheet and cut to size to fit the whole roof. Also if you find cutting out the window frames difficult/ fiddly there is a printable option supplied for the windows.
I got carried away with these and created full buildings but they are an interesting mix of buildings and styles.
(http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd518/JerryHowlett/126_zpsb0da19e6.jpg)
In this pic only the half timbered version has been combined with a front half.
(http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd518/JerryHowlett/112_zps0223ce41.jpg)
A couple of modified versions.
This Scalescenes waiting shelter (http://scalescenes.com/shelter_sample/R001_TX01_N.zip) is what I started with. It has few parts and is relatively quick to assemble. It should take about an hour or two to print and build using 270gsm card and normal printer paper.
A picture of the finished thing is at the bottom of the page here (http://www.newrailwaymodellers.co.uk/resources.htm).
I have that shelter on one of my shoebox modules, and Jazzy does not want it.
It is the perfect starter for anyone else trying Scalecenes for the first time.
Will be getting her to look at the Wordsworth ones as I can reduce the size on my printer.
She has also watched me building Sankei kits and said they are too fiddly.
Downloads seem the way to go, then at least I can just reprint them if it all goes wrong.
On a side note -has anyone had any problems with the Scalescenes Pub?
Is that the Country pub or the one that comes as part of the corner shops ?
I don't think they come much simpler than this telephone box done by scary-bob one of out members.
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=966.msg91490#msg91490 (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=966.msg91490#msg91490)
cheers John.
Sorry Jerry,
The Country Pub.
John her layout is steam powered so a touch to modern, she was going tospend some of her pocket money and get what I call the traditional phone boxes ready made in plastic.
Mike,
I made the country pub a while back, I don't remember much nowadays any particular problem but could go and look at it again. Where are/were you having probs ?.
Additional question with the Wordsworth kits what % do you reduce them by. I quite fancy doing the "Butter cross" Market but tried it at 54% but seemed far too big.
Jerry
Not bought it yet, but thinking might have a go.
Just bought the arched bridge kit for Jazzy.
Have not tried that Wordsworth one yet, Did build the small garage -perfect for a rural scene and from memory used 54% on my HP printer. What I found best was to print it greyscale on a sheet of paper and then try a N gauge figure against it.
Saved wasting too much ink doing it in colour.
Just found it and finished it.. Forgot the chimneys ,they are courtesy of "Bikeracer".
(http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd518/JerryHowlett/040_zps999f5625.jpg)
Behind it is a combination of Pub and half timbered shop from Scalescenes High Street.
Only fiddly bit are the windows which need cutting out individually.
Jerry
When you stick the printed sheets to the thick card, what is the best glue?
The UHU multi purpose adhesive works ok, the PVA glue I get here can be a bit brutal on large sheets.
I tried Cheap versions of "Pritt" sticks but learnt not to buy them from the pound shop or Sainsburys on trips to the UK. As I am dependant on "foreign" glues others may have better advice.
Quote from: Karyn on March 27, 2013, 04:21:38 PM
When you stick the printed sheets to the thick card, what is the best glue?
I have been printing directly onto 200 gsm paper/card to save the gluing problem. Been working for me but I'm just a beginner so don't know if there are potential problems with this.
Yes that works fine for "medium" (220gsm) and "light" (80gsm, I can only get 110gsm) card, but the heavy card (1mm) will need to be glued.
The new scalescenes kit has a new tip for the window frames, (sorry if its been quoted before), Print direct on to adhesive labels cut out and then stick to transparency sheet. Just tried this with the Semi detatched houses and ...It worked :claphappy:
Jerry
Quote from: Karyn on March 27, 2013, 04:21:38 PM
When you stick the printed sheets to the thick card, what is the best glue?
Spray mount works very well for this purpose ;)
cheers John.
I've built the free small goods shed as a test for which I printed direct onto 160 gsm card as that's all I had.
But it occured to me that while I should have used 200, glueing a printed layer (80 gsm paper) onto that would leave it 280 gsm + glue... almost twice as thick as I used.
Which comes back to how to glue the printed layer to the card. I thought of spray mount :thankyousign: and a prit stick (other brands available) but i'm concirned about 'dry' areas which are guaranteed to align with some small detail in the print which then lifts and rips when you try to cut it out...
I'm thinking along the lines of watered down PVA, painted onto the card like wallpaper paste and a rolling pin to press and squeeze the layers together. Am I over thinking this? Is it actually easy?
Also, am I expected to stick the entire page (or half page) to a complete sheet of card or is it better to rough cut the pieces out first and only stick the bits you need?
Quote from: Karyn on March 28, 2013, 01:56:52 PM
Which comes back to how to glue the printed layer to the card. I thought of spray mount :thankyousign: and a prit stick (other brands available) but i'm concirned about 'dry' areas which are guaranteed to align with some small detail in the print which then lifts and rips when you try to cut it out...
With spray mount you should not get any dry areas and I have found even using the best Pritt sticks after a period of time it seems to dry out and lose it adhesive qualities then peels away.
I'm thinking along the lines of watered down PVA, painted onto the card like wallpaper paste and a rolling pin to press and squeeze the layers together. Am I over thinking this? Is it actually easy?
I think if you used this method you may well end up with a wrinkled sheet due to an excess of water and would stay wrinkled after drying out.
Also, am I expected to stick the entire page (or half page) to a complete sheet of card or is it better to rough cut the pieces out first and only stick the bits you need?
Stick the whole sheets onto the card then give it plenty time to completely dry then use a new scalpel blade otherwise it will end uo dragging the paper especially on the finer details.
cheers John.
Thanks John :thankyousign: I'll add a can of spray mount to the shopping list.
John,
Do you recommend any particular brand of spray ?.
I am over to sunny ( :laugh:) Glasgow next month so would like to buy some. The last stuff I bought here ended up being photo adhesive cost about E13 and came through the paper turning everything a murky shade of Grey.
See even old hands need advice.
Jerry
Hi Jerry,
I bought it on eBay as I could not find any for sale locally.
The company name on the tin is "Q Connect" and it is called "Quick Mount" and I don't remember how much I paid for it.
I do get a sheet of newspaper and have a practice spray on that, so I am sure I am getting an even spray from the can.
Then I get a fresh sheet of newspaper lay the card down and spray from about 18" (approx 460mm) away till it is covered, then lay the printed sheet on top.
This method has worked for me except when the printed sheet slipped out of my fingers and landed partly face down on the card then there was much :veryangry2:
Can anybody tell this poor old newbie how to scale down the free Wordsworth card kits to n gauge. I've installed frograr so can print them out in what appears to be OO gauge but how do I reduce them. Any advice would be gratefully received. Thanks.
Quote from: trelevra on April 11, 2013, 04:48:38 PM
Can anybody tell this poor old newbie how to scale down the free Wordsworth card kits to n gauge. I've installed frograr so can print them out in what appears to be OO gauge but how do I reduce them. Any advice would be gratefully received. Thanks.
If your printer will print them at 51% they will come out n gauge.
cheers John.
Thanks John,
You've made an old idiot very happy.
Mike
Hi Mike,
No such thing as an old idiot on here, just someone who has learned something new.
It is always a good day when you learn something new :thumbsup:
Feel free to ask any question you are unsure of, we enjoy helping ;)
cheers John.
I use PVA or Gorilla Wood Glue in my case for virtually all my paper to card and card to card builds.
My personal method of gluing cover layers to base layers is to lay the base layer on the cutting mat and position the cover layer over it.
Once I'm happy with the position I hold both layers down using my left hand and then I peel the cover layer up at one end with a finger.
This exposes the base layer enough to brush neat PVA onto it for perhaps about 10 or 12mm.
Then I let go of the end of cover layer that I'm holding up and it settles onto the wet PVA which will grab it and hold it in position.
Carefully smooth the glued part down then turn it 180 degrees and repeat gluing about 20mm at a time down.
Then the glued parts get flattened with a brayer tool which is a bit like a seam roller but is wider and made of hard rubber.
Then put the part weighted down on a flat surface for a good 24 hours or so.
I also glue A4 card sheets together with the glue diluted about 50%,it dries too quick if it's neat,then have at it with the brayer tool which IIRC was around £5.00 on ebay,it's better than a seam roller,mine is about 4 inches wide.
Hope all this makes sense.
Allan
Quote from: Bikeracer on April 11, 2013, 08:01:02 PM
I use PVA or Gorilla Wood Glue in my case for virtually all my paper to card and card to card builds.
Gorilla Wood Glue is what I use. It is rock solid once dry. It dries in a couple of minutes but that gives you time to adjust anything before it starts to go off.
My favoured method of "gluing the printed paper on" is to print onto full sheet Avery shipping labels that say they are for Inkjets (available from Staples and such). The labels have a paper surface and a thin 'plasticky' layer underneath with good strong adhesive on. The backing paper peels off and you stick the piece to card for cutting out or directly on if it says 'print only'. The labels are quite expensive, but then I feel like I save so much hassle with glue and spray and cleaning up, and I never get any wrinkles or soggy wetness to have to wait to dry out.
The most glue I ever use now is a dab of Gorilla Wood Glue on my finger to run round the card edges that need gluing together.