I have just tried the Scotchlok connecters for attaching the wire droppers to the bus wire and what a waste of money! :veryangry: I tried 4 to attach droppers the power feed and all 4 failed to make contact so I am going to get the soldering iron out and do it the long way, Waste of time effort and money Rant over :'(
I hope you have some heatshrink to make insulation easy ;)
cheers John.
Quote from: cernem1alt on February 27, 2013, 02:48:45 PM
I have just tried the Scotchlok connecters for attaching the wire droppers to the bus wire and what a waste of money! :veryangry: I tried 4 to attach droppers the power feed and all 4 failed to make contact so I am going to get the soldering iron out and do it the long way, Waste of time effort and money Rant over :'(
I'm not trying to be smart, but you do have the correct size don't you?
Some people think they only come in blue but there is a larger yellow and smaller red size for different diameter wires.
Apologies if I am teaching you to suck eggs here.
yes I have a mixture of sizes I even used two as a test (the blue seemed to be about right) but still a bad connection not very impressed :hmmm:
I put my droppers in first,each one approx twelve inches long,ran the bus wire to the first dropper and soldered them together after trimming the dropper wire to length,ran the bus wire from there to the next dropper after covering the joint with heatshrink tube and repeated as required.
Allan
Quote from: cernem1alt on February 27, 2013, 04:46:16 PM
yes I have a mixture of sizes I even used two as a test (the blue seemed to be about right) but still a bad connection not very impressed :hmmm:
I must admit I gave up on Scotchlocks years ago, when trying to wire in a car stereo to an MK2 Escort ;)
Never used them since, I now always solder any wires or use solder barrels or crimps.
Regards
Neal.
I've used Scotchloks for my DCC wiring without any problems at all. I suspect it is a wire thickness or insulation issue but each to their own.
Glen
I also use 'Scotchblok' connectors without problem. It's all about matching the Scotchbloks to the wire sizes and using the correct crimping tool.
Quote from: Calnefoxile on February 27, 2013, 05:12:46 PM
Quote from: cernem1alt on February 27, 2013, 04:46:16 PM
yes I have a mixture of sizes I even used two as a test (the blue seemed to be about right) but still a bad connection not very impressed :hmmm:
I must admit I gave up on Scotchlocks years ago, when trying to wire in a car stereo to an MK2 Escort ;)
Never used them since, I now always solder any wires or use solder barrels or crimps.
Regards
Neal.
what is the diff between a barrel and a crimp? Dx
I've used hundreds of Scotchloks on my wiring, every single one made the connection first time every time. Like Lawrence I suspect the wrong size for the wires has been used, a common mistake with these things ;)
My droppers are 16/0.2 wire and the DCC bus wire is about the same size as domestic 3-core cable. I used red Scotchloks throughout, the layout has been moved numerous times already and so far no problems. Personally I wouldn't use them on car wiring as they are subject to too much vibration and extremes of temperature, but for a model railway they are ideal :thumbsup:
Paul
Just browsed them - assuming I'm looking at the right items http://solutions.3m.co.uk/wps/portal/3M/en_GB/ElectricalMkts/ElectricalSupplies/products/scotchlok-wire-connectors/scotchlok-electrical-idc-wire-connectors/# (http://solutions.3m.co.uk/wps/portal/3M/en_GB/ElectricalMkts/ElectricalSupplies/products/scotchlok-wire-connectors/scotchlok-electrical-idc-wire-connectors/#), how can you tell what ones you need ? And is a crimping tool required ?
Mike
Edit : just checked the wire I'm planning on using - it's 24/0.2 So first : is this OK to use as main wire and droppers ? If not, what should I use instead ? And if so, what Scotchbloks are suitable ?
Never done this before, hence these basic questions !
M
i used them as well and they seem to work ok for me so far. i do sometimes worry that they will get loose over time, but actually it's more often been the soldering of the feeds to the underneath of the track itself that breaks, rather than any problem with the scotchlocks.
i got them from express models - a dcc bus wiring kit or something they called it, suggestion from chinahand actually, a few years ago now! you can get the same types from rapid, maplins etc etc as well though for cheaper. the bus wire i used was sold to me specifically for use with these scotchlocks, the insulation is softer i presume.
cheers
tim
Quote from: Sprintex on February 27, 2013, 07:05:20 PM
I've used hundreds of Scotchloks on my wiring, every single one made the connection first time every time. Like Lawrence I suspect the wrong size for the wires has been used, a common mistake with these things ;)
Paul
Me too - never experienced one problem despite having used them to create one layout and to rewire another that I had bought as a complete item. I only ever used pliers to "crimp" them too !
Quote from: dean thom on February 27, 2013, 06:56:13 PM
Quote from: Calnefoxile on February 27, 2013, 05:12:46 PM
Never used them since, I now always solder any wires or use solder barrels or crimps.
Regards
Neal.
what is the diff between a barrel and a crimp? Dx
Dean,
To be honest they do what they say on the tin really, Crimps are a crush joint whereas Solder Barrels are heated up and make a solder joint after being crushed first.
Regards
Neal.
Mike,
It's the red tap splice you need:-
http://www.rapidonline.com/Cables-Connectors/Crimp-Red-Tap-Splice-33-0160 (http://www.rapidonline.com/Cables-Connectors/Crimp-Red-Tap-Splice-33-0160)
Quote from: MikeDunn on February 27, 2013, 07:21:06 PM
And is a crimping tool required ?
No, good pair of pliers will do just as well ;)
QuoteEdit : just checked the wire I'm planning on using - it's 24/0.2 So first : is this OK to use as main wire and droppers ? If not, what should I use instead ? And if so, what Scotchbloks are suitable ?
24/0.2 will be OK for bus-wire if your layout is on the small side. It's a little bit overkill for droppers, you can go as low as 7/0.2 wire for droppers less than a foot long, 16/0.2 for anything over this. I used 16/0.2 for all my droppers but if it saves on wire purchasing then go ahead and use 24/0.2, it won't do any harm, just might be a bit harder to disguise :thumbsup:
Paul
Paul
Quote from: Sprintex on February 27, 2013, 10:01:46 PM
It's the red tap splice you need:-
No, good pair of pliers will do just as well ;)
24/0.2 will be OK for bus-wire if your layout is on the small side. It's a little bit overkill for droppers, you can go as low as 7/0.2 wire for droppers less than a foot long
Cheers for this Paul :)
I'll have a search around, see if I can find the reds at a steal price :smiley-laughing: Good to know I don't have to splash out on
another tool - got loads of pliers. Will have a look around for 7/0.2 as well ...
What's peoples opinions on the small solid-core wire for droppers ? 1/0.6 I think (still trying to get my head around wiring specs :confused1:) ? I've read that this is better because it stays in place (being solid core) ? And handles a little more current than 7/0.2 ? (the lengths will be under 30cm, more like 10cm I reckon)
Started reading about all this electrickery stuff in a book I hadn't realised I had :-[ - we got several Aspects of Modelling books & Right Track DVDs free from a show about 2 years ago - & promptly forgot about them :doh: Seeing as one is Morton's Railway Electrics ... :smackedface: BTW - is this a good / average / poor book ?
Mike
Do not use solid core, it snaps far more easily than stranded wire so you have more chance of problems. Anyone who's worked in telecommunications will know this ;)
Better to use stranded: to attach dropper to rail first strip the wire end and tin with solder. Clean area of rail to be soldered to (side or rail-bottom depending on your choice) and tin this also. Place tinned wire end against tinned rail and a quick touch with soldering iron should be all you need, hopefully avoiding melted sleepers :thumbsup:
Paul
patiently soldering and it works fine :bounce:
Cheers Paul - will avoid 1/0.6 and stick with 7/0.2 !!!