Valancing a dapol a4

Started by portland-docks, December 25, 2013, 11:08:03 AM

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portland-docks

Just been having some thought...

As we know, dapol a4 valve gear is too wide for a valance to be fitted...but is it possible to remove some of the valve gear and still get a convincing look with valances on?

Or is there another way to valance the a4 and get the best/ most convincing look?

Discuss
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Dr Al

The speedo drive, and lubricators on the rearmost axle could be removed, but the problem is really with the eccentric rods on the central axle. You can't remove these really as they were visible even with valances in place.

Therefore the only real way IMHO would be to carefully tighten up all the tolerances in this area to narrow the valve gear in whilst retaining it and use very thin sheet as valances. But whether that's actually possible with the Dapol valve gear components and still remain functional and robust is all a bit marginal I reckon.

Cheers,
Alan
Quote from: Roy L S
If Dr Al is online he may be able to provide a more comprehensive answer.

"We have also arranged things so that almost no one understands science and technology. This is a prescription for disaster. We might get away with it for a while, but sooner or later this combustible mixture of ignorance and power is going to blow up in our faces."Dr. Carl Sagan

portland-docks

Well since i dont use mallard i might play about with it see what i can do
Visit my heritage Railway "moorside Valley Railway"

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portland-docks

Well after looking at mallard and having a little play with some thin card, a valance CAN be done!

It clears the valve gear by the smallest franction which should allow it to work.

The way to do it is one of two ways...

1-cut one piece of card to the shape of the valance and stick it to the outside pf the  running plates, essientally covering the existing side pieces

2- cut two valance pieces to cover the exisiting holes, again stuck to the outside of the running plate

Im debating which to do but i will upload a pic of option two later on, it doesnt look bad and i think with the right paint it will be looking good!
Visit my heritage Railway "moorside Valley Railway"

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portland-docks

#4
Well heres the template.

Mallard first batch with card valances glued on. When tidied up painted etc i think it would look the job



Thoughts?
Visit my heritage Railway "moorside Valley Railway"

http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=9280.0

see first post for exhibition dates

port perran

Is there supposed to be a picture or template. If so.....it's missing !!
I'll get round to fixing it drekkly me 'ansome.

portland-docks

Visit my heritage Railway "moorside Valley Railway"

http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=9280.0

see first post for exhibition dates

Dr Al

They need to be flush with the cylinders though - i.e. closer in to the valve gear than you have them...I suspect then clearances'll be a problem...

Cheers,
Alan
Quote from: Roy L S
If Dr Al is online he may be able to provide a more comprehensive answer.

"We have also arranged things so that almost no one understands science and technology. This is a prescription for disaster. We might get away with it for a while, but sooner or later this combustible mixture of ignorance and power is going to blow up in our faces."Dr. Carl Sagan

portland-docks

Well the other option is make a full length piece and using some filler or something, blend it into the running plate thus essentially giving that cleatence but hiding the original cylinder at the same time but still looking right
Visit my heritage Railway "moorside Valley Railway"

http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=9280.0

see first post for exhibition dates

Dr Al

Then it risks looking too wide.

Thin brass sheet, flush with the cylinders, plus valve gear adjustment or modification is the way to do this I think.

Bear in mind also that once you've attached valances you'll never be able to get the loco apart again, as the valve gear needs to be partly removed to get the chassis block apart from the loco to access the worm gear for lubrication etc.

Cheers,
Alan
Quote from: Roy L S
If Dr Al is online he may be able to provide a more comprehensive answer.

"We have also arranged things so that almost no one understands science and technology. This is a prescription for disaster. We might get away with it for a while, but sooner or later this combustible mixture of ignorance and power is going to blow up in our faces."Dr. Carl Sagan

portland-docks

Access the worm? I usually just removed the brake gear underneath as per instructions, never removed more than that plate, never removed valve gear :s

But where am i going to get brass sheet thin enough?
Visit my heritage Railway "moorside Valley Railway"

http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=9280.0

see first post for exhibition dates

Dr Al

Quote from: portland-docks on December 25, 2013, 05:44:43 PM
Access the worm? I usually just removed the brake gear underneath as per instructions, never removed more than that plate, never removed valve gear :s

Yes, but you can't get at the worm gear bearings doing this. I've had my A4 apart completely and this is the only way to get sufficient access to the worm bearings to properly lubricate them (and they weren't properly lubricated in the factory....).

Plenty of model shops, and online will stock thin brass - can be very thin given it's metal and therefore more robust than plastic.

Cheers,
Alan
Quote from: Roy L S
If Dr Al is online he may be able to provide a more comprehensive answer.

"We have also arranged things so that almost no one understands science and technology. This is a prescription for disaster. We might get away with it for a while, but sooner or later this combustible mixture of ignorance and power is going to blow up in our faces."Dr. Carl Sagan

portland-docks

Oh right, iv never had the need to, my 3 a4s are running perfectly, shouldnt have to strip it down...

But think thats my next move, thin brass, two full length valances, blend in and paint :)
Visit my heritage Railway "moorside Valley Railway"

http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=9280.0

see first post for exhibition dates

Dr Al

Quote from: portland-docks on December 25, 2013, 05:52:59 PM
Oh right, iv never had the need to, my 3 a4s are running perfectly, shouldnt have to strip it down...

Yes, but you will in time.

Mine didn't appear to need it, but after lubrication things were definitely improved (lower current consumption and MUCH quieter...).

Cheers,
Alan
Quote from: Roy L S
If Dr Al is online he may be able to provide a more comprehensive answer.

"We have also arranged things so that almost no one understands science and technology. This is a prescription for disaster. We might get away with it for a while, but sooner or later this combustible mixture of ignorance and power is going to blow up in our faces."Dr. Carl Sagan

EtchedPixels

For very thin but brasslike look for phosphor bronze or for stronger but harder to shape 5thou nickel silver or maybe slightly thinner stainless steel.

Takes you to paper thickness or so

Alan
"Knowledge has no value or use for the solitary owner: to be enjoyed it must be communicated" -- Charles Pratt, 1st Earl Camden

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