Class 180 Adelante Kit

[Snowwolflair]

Modification notes

[smg id=40131 type=preview align=center caption="As made"]

[smg id=40133 type=preview align=center caption="lugs removed"]

[smg id=40139 type=preview align=center caption="M4 washer 0.7mm thick"]

[smg id=40141 type=preview align=center caption="Class 170 bogie"]

The bogie mounting for coaches A B D and E need trimmed and replaced with an M4 washer thinned to 0.7mm

[Snowwolflair]

Coach C (power car) modifications

[smg id=40142 type=preview align=center caption="Modified Coach chassis"]

[smg id=40156 type=preview align=center caption="The existing screw fixing points are used"]

[smg id=40155 type=preview align=center caption="The floor alignment lugs on the sides are removed"]

[smg id=40157 type=preview align=center caption="   "]

[smg id=40158 type=preview align=center caption="   "]

[smg id=40159 type=preview align=center caption="   "]

[robert shrives]

A picture says a 1000 words - thanks very useful as model nearing a start on my bench.
thanks
Robert

[Snowwolflair]

You will need to make adjustments to the ends, depending on couplings used, but as this will be different from model to model and is directly related to the washer thickness, I'm not going to post photos of this.

As the transfers will take some time, my next actions will be to give the model a good surface using a fiberglass pen, filler and primer.  I also have to decide about interiors.  I also plan to cut windows in acrylic  on my laser.  This is tricky and does not always work, however if it does it will give flush glazing.

[acko22]

At this rate with the great job your doing you are going to have to start a business of it for the less able modeller amongst us!

You are doing a spot on job!!

[Snowwolflair]

At this rate with the great job your doing you are going to have to start a business of it for the less able modeller amongst us!

You are doing a spot on job!!

Been modelling for 50 years, I never mix business with pleasure. 

But from involvement in many clubs, and teaching modeling skills, I like clarity in my explanations.

[Snowwolflair]

I'm using short neck Rapido couplings at the moment.  I may change this and use three pin electrical connectors later to feed the front and tail lights if I decide to fit them.  These short couplings give a good spacing for demonstration purposes.  You will note I have ground back the underside to ensure the couplings do not scrape but this does not affect the sides.

[smg id=40206 type=preview align=center caption="Please excuse the camera lens distortion"]

[smg id=40207 type=preview align=center caption="Any closer and they could foul"]

[robert shrives]

  Thanks again have now got two vehicles mounted a 5 BA washer opened up gave me the 0.7mm lift and I have added about an ounce of lead into leading car - so will test tomorrow.  now to source more 158 bogies as the 180 V2 bogies not yet ready. - I will lift from other 158 sets!
Now have copy of livery drawing from contacts at GC so a black and orange set will land on my lines very soon.

thanks
Robert

[Snowwolflair]

Class 170 bogies will also work, they are all the same and the Scotrail class 170's 3 car sets were very cheap recently. 

If your chassis plates are slightly warped which can cause wheel rub, you can steam them and lay them on a flat cold surface.

[Snowwolflair]

Re-post of lost images.

[GroupC]

Looks very good indeed, even at this early stage.

[Tank]

Fantastic!

[Snowwolflair]

Fantastic!

Wait till you see the FGW Dynamic lines transfers that are now in prep.   

[Snowwolflair]

A bit of an experiment.

I want to implement directional lights and to do this I need to distribute the power to the end coaches from the center car.  I will be using DCC and also the class 170 bogies on the coaches have no electrical pickup.

Those of you who are familiar with the Hornby Brighton Bell model will be familiar with the idea of using 3 pin plugs to hook together coaches.  Its fragile but worth the effort.

The trick is to get the plugs and sockets to move a little but not be loose enough to stress the wires, and to achieve this I am using silicone rubber (blue compound) to hold the plugs.

[pape_timmo]

That's a great idea, where did you get the plugs from please?

I don't know what I'd use them on yet, but I'm sure others would like to know, and I'm sure I'll use this in the future.

Looking great so far.

Cheers, Timmo